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Unread 05-30-2009, 11:31 PM   #61
mudb8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
my thoughts exactly. A Rubicrawler + NV241J gives you a great gearing combo and doesn't add any length to the drivetrain.

The search for a sub-60k 03-06 NV241J under $800 shipped to my door has begun
there's one here locally for 950 if I remember correctly...

what was that comment about the 231 being worth putting money in again.....



I believe it got a new sye put in, then they never put in enough oil, I'm certain it didn't leak due to how much silicone it had stuck in it... that thing was toast. I ended up using the sye, in another t-case... hope the temper is still good...

shock relocation is awesome for a few reasons, just not exactly needed with the proper length shocks for the lift height..

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Unread 05-31-2009, 07:17 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by NEastUnlmtd View Post
So, no shock relocators or exhaust mods in the "comprehensive" plan then?
nope. I'll only need shock relocators if I rotate the pinion angle and get interference with the lower spring perch.

don't know how exhaust mods fit with a 2.5" suspension, but if I get rubbing on the shock, I'll probably just leave it for now. May cut the tailpipe off and weld a turndown on if I have to. But so far, no issues....

Eventually I'd like to go to a 2.5" diameter exhaust, but thats waaaaaaay down the road.
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Unread 05-31-2009, 01:17 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
nope. I'll only need shock relocators if I rotate the pinion angle and get interference with the lower spring perch.

don't know how exhaust mods fit with a 2.5" suspension, but if I get rubbing on the shock, I'll probably just leave it for now. May cut the tailpipe off and weld a turndown on if I have to. But so far, no issues....

Eventually I'd like to go to a 2.5" diameter exhaust, but thats waaaaaaay down the road.

Why a 2.5" exhaust, you will loose almost all the back pressure that you have right now?
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your money will go farther in College Station.
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Unread 05-31-2009, 01:33 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by rubidriver View Post
Why a 2.5" exhaust, you will loose almost all the back pressure that you have right now?
naw, i'll keeping the cats - all three. The 2.5" OD will just be "cat-back", same diameter as Banks and other aftermarket kits, stock is 2.25". But...thats a few years out, when the stock muffler rusts thru, I add 50k more miles and/or stroker.

AND...found a NV241J in my price range thanks to "provelogear" (Savvy Offroad). Thanks !
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Unread 05-31-2009, 03:24 PM   #65
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naw, i'll keeping the cats - all three. The 2.5" OD will just be "cat-back", same diameter as Banks and other aftermarket kits, stock is 2.25". But...thats a few years out, when the stock muffler rusts thru, I add 50k more miles and/or stroker.

AND...found a NV241J in my price range thanks to "provelogear" (Savvy Offroad). Thanks !
People that have done banks have reported they feel lost low end power, not all of them... just the ones that know what the placebo effect is. I suspect that it is because the overly huge tail pipe and straight through muffler. Stock is not 2.25, its 2". Ive compared a stock tail pipe to a 2.25" tail pipe and you can easily see that the stocker is smaller. It may just be the tail pipe that you are replacing, but there will still be turbulence.
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your money will go farther in College Station.
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Unread 05-31-2009, 03:33 PM   #66
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I installed the Banks catback and lost low end torque. Installed an exhaust pipe reducer in the end of the 2.5" pipe and got the low end torque back...
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Unread 05-31-2009, 04:13 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
I installed the Banks catback and lost low end torque. Installed an exhaust pipe reducer in the end of the 2.5" pipe and got the low end torque back...
hmm interesting. Good to know, thanks!
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Unread 06-01-2009, 07:39 PM   #68
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had some death wooble symptoms the other day, so decided to check the track bar. broke the axle side front track bar bolt this morning checking the torque....today wasnt my day. Spent 5 hours screwing with the t-case linkage too....

The stock track bar bolt is 10.9 and has 9mm shaft, but M10 (10mm x 1.5) threads....which is why its so loose inside your track bar bushing.

Stock Bolt Shaft (9mm):


Stock Threads (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Shaft (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Threads (10mm):


This makes no sense to me, because the OD of the non-thread shaft should be the same as the major diameter as the threads, not the minor diameter. Every bolt you buy at the hardware store is like this, but Jeep's bolt isn't. And the hole is drilled to 7/16" - so its a custom metric bolt in a standard drilled hole. Whatever, typical Chrysler engineering...crap like this is why they went bankrupt.

So the local hardware store doesn't have any hex head 10.9 bolts because they are morons. they only have 8.8 hex heads, and 12.9 socket head cap screws. Then the hardware store guy tried to tell me Class 8.8 = Grade 8.

I bought two hex Class 8.8 and one socket head cap Class 12.9, all M10 x 1.5.

[Engineering Speak]

All 10.9 bolts have a tensile strength of 145 ksi (kilo-psi), all 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 116 ksi. For reference Grade 5 = 120 ksi and Grade 8 = 150 ksi. Class 12.9 has a tensile strength of 174 ksi. Source: www.mcmaster.com

Many say the factory torque spec is 55 ft-lbs. BUT - a Class 8.8 M10 bolt can only take 40-45 ft-lbs of torque before the threads distort and the bolt is useless. A Class 10.9 M10 bolt can take ~55-60 ft-lbs. A Class 12.9 M10 bolt can take ~73 ft-lbs.
Source: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html and http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm and and http://books.google.com/books?id=_Pk...esign+handbook

[/Engineering Speak]

What does this mean? Since the stock torque spec is at the upper limit of a 10.9 and grade 8 bolt, you can very easily overtorque the stock bolt, causing the threads to deform and the next time you go to use the bolt it is useless and will not torque properly. It will just snap. Thats what happened to me. The solution - buy a 12.9 M10x1.5 75mm bolt and torque to 55-65 ft-lbs.

Also, every M10 x 1.5 bolt you buy from McMaster or a hardware store will have a 10mm OD shaft instead of the stock 9mm, which makes it fit more snug in the track bar (a good thing!). You'll have to drill out the stock washer, I worked it with a 3/8" drill bit for a while. I couldn't find a thick, larger OD 10mm ID washer to match the stock one.

Finished - Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Class 10.9 thin washer + drill out stock washer:


I reused the stock nut after chasing the threads with an M10 tap - I chewed them up trying to get the busted bolt out. Torqued to 55-60 ft-lbs and used a bit of blue lock-tite. make sure to tighten the Class 12.9 M10 bolt with an 8mm Allen head - careful not to strip the allen head!

Last edited by Unlimited04; 05-07-2010 at 07:23 AM..
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Unread 06-04-2009, 04:19 PM   #69
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New toy to grin at:




It won't be installed for a long time. Need to save money for some adjustable arms, new rear driveshaft, front u-joint 1310-->1330 thingy, the necessary wiring crap, speedo corrector thingy, etc. So for now, its wheeling next to the futon.
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Unread 06-07-2009, 02:13 PM   #70
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Did some quick wheeling on a trail today to check flex and for track-bar interference.
I can put my finger between Riddler and the JKS track bar. Its close, but doesn't appear I'll have issues at this point. These are all with sway bars connected:


^the front is still like an inch or more off the bumpstop, and the rear is probably 1/2-3/4" off the bumpstop, and I got 2-3 fingers between the flare and the tire. Plenty of room for 33s!



Next issue I've noticed is the passenger side spring perch is about 1/2" smaller than the drivers side. My friend's LJ is the same way. It causes my passenger side spring to rub on the perch. On big bumps or quick braking stops, the spring rubs and makes an annoying clunk that resonates through the entire frame. I can find absolutely no reason Jeep engineers would design the perches like this. There is no potential of sway bar interference, no brake lines, A/C lines or anything that would get in the way of a 1/4-1/2" wider perch...guess its a "Jeep thing". Nothing I can really do to fix it either...the spring is in correctly...


I'm amazed how much better the OME rides on the trail and over washboards. The Jeep keeps the wheels stuck to the ground better and the body stays level better in flexing situations.
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Unread 06-07-2009, 02:23 PM   #71
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cool coolio
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Unread 06-09-2009, 05:31 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post


^the front is still like an inch or more off the bumpstop, and the rear is probably 1/2-3/4" off the bumpstop, and I got 2-3 fingers between the flare and the tire. Plenty of room for 33s!
What about your control arms there? My shocks and bumpstops have room to move but the stock control arms are bound against the brackets at its fullest droop.
As for the passenger side perch mine has a wider setup.


Nice to see your progress and great documentation.
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Unread 06-09-2009, 05:37 PM   #73
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Kinda sucks that I have a tummy tuck w/ a t-case drop...
LMAO i know how you feel!

AND holy CRap I thought my spring perch smaller. I just thought i got jiped lol
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Unread 06-09-2009, 06:24 PM   #74
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Very nice. Looks like it's ready for regear and 33's.

How is it on the highway? I know this is a ridiculous question, but notice anything with gas mileage? Your gonna love that OME kit even more after a while. Even with 80k miles on mine, it still felt great.
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Unread 06-09-2009, 06:27 PM   #75
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NEastUnlmtd - where do you get control arm interference? front or rear? upper or lowers? frame side or axle side mount?

I didn't look at the control arm, just the track bars. Let me know where you see interference and I'll check mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7 View Post
Very nice. Looks like it's ready for regear and 33's.

How is it on the highway? I know this is a ridiculous question, but notice anything with gas mileage? Your gonna love that OME kit even more after a while. Even with 80k miles on mine, it still felt great.
I haven't noticed a big change in gas mileage yet, but I haven't been keeping track. Just guessing off the Scanguage. I don't really care about mileage much anyway. Thats what my pedal bike is for. Its a 4.0L, I'm happy as long as its over 11mpg city and 15mpg hwy. I feel the wind resistance more, especially with the 42RLE's relentless search for Overdrive.

It rides awesome on the highway, even up to 80mph, especially after I got the wheel spacers back on. I have noticed more pre-death wobble with the wheel spacers tho - I've narrowed it to them for sure. They may not be perfectly balanced, or more likely it is a result of the change in scrub radius. I'm searching locally for some cheap alloy or steel 15x8 wheels w/ 4" backspacing. The reduction in caster with 31s does make the Jeep want to wander, especially around 55-65mph. It wants to follow ruts in the road, causing it to pull left slightly at times. The higher profile is definitely noticeable too, I can feel pushing more wind, and I can feel strong crosswinds causing the body to sway more. Keep in mind my roll cage + hard top makes my Jeep somewhat top heavy to me, even when I was on stock springs. I'm very cognisant of center of gravity, probably more so than most.

But overall, I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Still a great daily driver, still fits in the garage and its the tallest lift i'd ever fell comfortable with. I'll probably use these tires up, then put some 33s on aftermarket wheels, sell the Ravines, and save the Moab's for some winter tires.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 06-09-2009 at 06:49 PM..
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