So recap on suspension design -
1. I'm running 33s, with 2.5" of lift and a 1" BL. That means I need 1" of bumpstop to keep the tires from rubbing the fenders.
2. My front shocks are 13.3" collapsed length - meaning they'll fit into the stock spring tower with no bumpstop.
3. My front track bar hits the ZJ tie-rod at around 1.25" of bumpstop extension, but doesn't hit the diff cover with the described modifications in this thread.
Whats that mean? Means I need at least 1" of bumpstop to clear the tires, and avoid damaging the tie-rod, and avoid hitting the diff cover. I had been running 0.9" homemade bumpstop upper extensions in front, but if you know your geometry, you'll see upper bumpstop extensions can bend the spring tower and cause major issues. Solution?
Move to lower bumpstop pucks. These are 1" Performance Accessories "Big Block" body mount spacers...less than $1 each...I ordered 6, just in case I decide to add more later
But if you're paying attention - I just lost 1" of travel due to bumpstops. 1" of uptravel obviously, but can I get that 1" back? Yes, sorta. I can get it back in downtravel. How? Well, I could install new shocks that are 1" longer travel, and have a 1" more compressed length (so 14.3" vs 13.3"). Or I could lengthen the shocks I already have to 14.3"....
$13 in spacers and grade 5 bolts from the hardware store, adding 1" length to my shocks.
So now I'm using the entire travel of the shock again, and I gain 1" of downtravel
The bumpstop extension was bolted down to the 3/8" base plate I welded to the HP D30 when I was building it.
^thats a 3" OD x 3/8" thick piece of steel, drilled and tapped for a 7/16" bolt.
So the total bumpstop is 1-3/8" in front, just enough to get the track bar rubbing the offset ZJ tie-rod, such that it only rubs paint...but doesn't cause major deformation of the tie-rod. Accompanied by a 1" shock extension to regain the lost uptravel in downtravel.
The front is totally dialed in