for those of you with a B&M trans gauge - I did some diagnostics on the temp gauge to find out wtf's going on and come to the conclusion my gauge is defective. sensor spits out a nice, consistent resistance, but the damn gauge sensor output spits out crazy voltages...and the ground wires are dead nuts solid...checked everything with the multi-meter & tested every wire individually.
called up Summit Racing, and all I can say is WOW...these guys have great freakin' customer service. They're sending a whole new kit, and covering the shipping of the defective parts. I didn't even have to give them the order number, knew the account based on caller ID.
Now that I've put almost 12,000 miles on the 2" OME lift, I decided to check the pinion angle and see if I could get away without the t-case drop.
Before lift - 11.25" to the skid.
If you remember back to page 1, I had 15" of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the skid before the lift settled, with minor vibes. After the 1" t-case drop, it was 14" to eliminate the vibes.
After 12,000 miles on the lift, w/ the t-case drop, 13" to the bottom of the skid, with 7.5 deg pinion angle and output shaft angle...a difference of 0 degrees...perfect!
So, I decided to remove the t-case drop, getting 14" to the bottom of the skid and see if I still get vibes. 5.3 deg output shaft angle and 6.5 deg pinion angle. About a 1 deg difference...not perfect...and I do notice a slight difference smoothness. Will need more miles at different speeds to determine if the drop needs to go back in. I fear if I put the soft top on the rear is going to jump enough to make it an issue.
and 12" to the bottom of the control arm mount.
If you remember back to measurements on page 1, then the actual lift after 12,000 miles is 3" at the t-case skid, and 2.75" at the front lower control arm mount. Had alignment checked again...toe is still good and caster is still at ~5.6 degrees and thrust angle is still the same, which means it hasn't sagged at all in the last 8,000 miles.
You finally did it. I see you did go with the JKS track bar. It looks like you wont be having any trouble with it hitting, although you might need more bumpstop in the front. You are running a hair shy of suggested bumpstop for 33's on those springs.
well rubidriver, you were right. I need more bumpstop to fit 33s. The JKS track bar acts like a 2.5" bumpstop on one side unforunately, but flexing the other side you see I need about 1" more bumpstop for 33s, or highline fenders
JKS track bar vs Riddler diff cover:
This is 245/75R16 (30.5") stuffed in front with the bumpstops completely compressed, and drivers side shocks fully extended (23")
About 1/2" - 3/4" gap all the way around....maybe.
Called up AirLift, found the part number needed for my lift after measuring the springs - #60811. Was about to order them from Summit Racing...but surprisingly enough I found the correct bags on craigslist. They're also used in WK's - guy lifted his WK and the bags didn't fit anymore. $15 A trip to the hardware store for some fittings, and a trip to a bicycle shop for a Shrader valve fitting, and I've got ~$35 into load leveling airbags in the rear. Well...and I rented some spring compressors...but that doesn't count
The manifold, with a drain plug to remove water...its not quite the lowest point in the system, but it will have to do.
Air lines follows the brake lines on the axle housing, and up the control arm.
Made a little bracket to hold the Shrader valve and connected it to the unused locker pump mount on my tummy tuck.
Now technically I have like 1/2" or so too much bumpstop according to AirLift. I decided NOT to remove the OME bumpstop extension because I'm not to sure about using these AirLift bags as bumpstops at this point.
If anything, I was thinking of hacking 1/2" off the jounce bumper.
I went for a short drive and so far I'm very pleased. At 7 psi (5 psi is minimum) it rides exactly the same, and there is no extra lift, the measurement to the t-case skid is exactly the same. At 20 psi it stiffens the springs up nicely and will be awesome when towing or hauling a heavy load. I can't wait to get em off-road now and see how flex is effected.
I had to modify the jounce bumpers, and reset the bumpstop length for the airbags to work properly. See part 2 and part 3, and Part 4.
Additionally, I now run these bags off my Viair 460C compressor, the 1 gallon tank and an in-cab precision air pressure regulator ($20 off ebay - but has the necessary larger diaphragm than the pressure regulators you find at your local hardware store, to maintain low pressures). The compressor pumps the tank up to 120 psi, and the air pressure regulator can be set to feed 0-35psi to the AirLift bags in < 1 psi increments.
Your right, Rubidriver does like that. He would like it even more if you had used a Rancho OBA to air them up
actually I think I'm going to go a different route for in-cab controller...eventually. I already have the Viair 460C with 125psi switch, but haven't gotten around to adding an airtank yet. I'll then put a 0-35 psi precision air pressure regulator in the cab, maybe under the seat, hooked directly to the 125psi tank. I'm thinking a ControlAir Type 100 or Type 850.
I've used the Type 100 before and it's accurate to 0.01 psi, it actually bleeds off excess pressure or feeds more pressure continuously as necessary to maintain the exact setting specified. You can mount a gauge right to them. Runs about $100. A liquid filled Wika Gauge runs about $20. Add quick disco air fittings & PE air hose and I'm done. Total cost about $125 from Fiero Fluid Power.
HP D30 Part I
For bushing removal/replacement, I made a bushing press/puller out of 3" OD pipe, a piece of flat plate, some all thread and a bunch of washers & nuts.
Pops the bushings right out-
Pushing a bushing in-
It destroys the all-thread since its such low grade, but the stuff is really cheap & comes in 3 ft lengths, so its not a big deal.
Mount bracing with 1/8" plate:
The LCA's will also get boxed in with my JeepMedic control arm skids, once I cut them off my LP D30 (or I may make new, dunno yet).
Made had originally planned to make a truss from flat plate, like shown earlier. But decided not to use them. Ground clearance for one, but mostly for oil pan clearance at full compression on the top. I didn't want to have to bumpstop things more than I already have, just to keep from hitting the oil pan...besides I still want to fix the track bar vs diff cover issue.
Cut out some sections of ~3" OD x 0.25" wall Schedule 40 pipe which got welded to the long side axle tube...without cutting the original mounts off. Half arsing it probably, but its more than I'll need.
Got four 3/32 55Ni rods from Airgas and had a professional welder do the work. We preheated the cast with a rosebud & IR thermometer, welded it as described, then wrapped it with 4-5 layers of aluminum foil, and wrapped that with fiberglass welding blankets. I have no pictures of this because it was really a two man job...with welding, rotating the housing and maintaining temperature. It took a good 2 hours to cool, so the tin foil method kept the heat in very well. Zero cracks!
Boxed in the UCA mount:
Tapped in an old bushing to make sure things didn't warp-
So far up to these pictures, I've got $40 into the HPD30 on top of what I paid for it...almost half of which was the nickel welding rod. $65 for the diff cover, dunno if I'll even have to use it. But...coming next in Part II...33s, new ball joints, regear, TrueTracs F/R & Vanco brakes.