Unlimited04's LJ Build - Page 16

**Unlimited04** · 02-01-2010, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ankyle62

posting to find this later for post #69, good info.

or you can just click the link in my sig

Quote:

Originally Posted by imped4now

I hope you replaced them with a certain Currie product.

$12 for 2 Clevite bushings or $160 for the Currie conversion kit....yea so considering i'm a student again...the $12 Clevites won. i'm trying to build this thing for as cheap as possible including regear labor, gears, TrueTrac, master install kit, new ball joints, new unit bearings & truss.

**Imped** · 02-02-2010, 11:29 AM

I followed the same thought process....no worries.

**Unlimited04** · 02-02-2010, 07:16 PM

for those of you with a B&M trans gauge - I did some diagnostics on the temp gauge to find out wtf's going on and come to the conclusion my gauge is defective. sensor spits out a nice, consistent resistance, but the damn gauge sensor output spits out crazy voltages...and the ground wires are dead nuts solid...checked everything with the multi-meter & tested every wire individually.

called up Summit Racing, and all I can say is WOW...these guys have great freakin' customer service. They're sending a whole new kit, and covering the shipping of the defective parts. I didn't even have to give them the order number, knew the account based on caller ID.

**Unlimited04** · 02-04-2010, 10:00 PM

finally a video illustrating the 42RLE suckage-

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/why-3-8l-v6-sucks-video-964113/

same problems with the JK's. this trans sucks something fierce...should have never been put in a Jeep. 4.88s with 31s maybe? very stupid gearing.

2006_Sport · 02-04-2010, 10:15 PM

I just saw that, I thought it would be better in the JKs...apparently not.

**glockster** · 02-04-2010, 11:25 PM

The 42rle lasted 3 months with me and I traded it in for a 6 speed rubi. Probably the best decision I made last year.

**EugeneTheTJ** · 03-04-2010, 11:27 PM

All these people talk about the beauty of autos, yet I have never had a single issue with my NV3550

**Unlimited04** · 03-16-2010, 02:37 PM

2" OME lift update!

Now that I've put almost 12,000 miles on the 2" OME lift, I decided to check the pinion angle and see if I could get away without the t-case drop.

Before lift - 11.25" to the skid.

If you remember back to page 1, I had 15" of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the skid before the lift settled, with minor vibes. After the 1" t-case drop, it was 14" to eliminate the vibes.

After 12,000 miles on the lift, w/ the t-case drop, 13" to the bottom of the skid, with 7.5 deg pinion angle and output shaft angle...a difference of 0 degrees...perfect!

So, I decided to remove the t-case drop, getting 14" to the bottom of the skid and see if I still get vibes. 5.3 deg output shaft angle and 6.5 deg pinion angle. About a 1 deg difference...not perfect...and I do notice a slight difference smoothness. Will need more miles at different speeds to determine if the drop needs to go back in. I fear if I put the soft top on the rear is going to jump enough to make it an issue.

and 12" to the bottom of the control arm mount.

If you remember back to measurements on page 1, then the actual lift after 12,000 miles is 3" at the t-case skid, and 2.75" at the front lower control arm mount. Had alignment checked again...toe is still good and caster is still at ~5.6 degrees and thrust angle is still the same, which means it hasn't sagged at all in the last 8,000 miles.

klimb2xs · 03-16-2010, 03:46 PM

Where did you get your digital angle finder? I am tired of fighting with the elcheapo weighted dial ones.

**Unlimited04** · 03-16-2010, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klimb2xs

Where did you get your digital angle finder? I am tired of fighting with the elcheapo weighted dial ones.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

the magnets suck. I've got a rare earth magnet i stick to it for better hold. Its still a POS chinese thing..but it does work.

**Unlimited04** · 03-28-2010, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubidriver

You finally did it. I see you did go with the JKS track bar. It looks like you wont be having any trouble with it hitting, although you might need more bumpstop in the front. You are running a hair shy of suggested bumpstop for 33's on those springs.

well rubidriver, you were right. I need more bumpstop to fit 33s. The JKS track bar acts like a 2.5" bumpstop on one side unforunately, but flexing the other side you see I need about 1" more bumpstop for 33s, or highline fenders

JKS track bar vs Riddler diff cover:

This is 245/75R16 (30.5") stuffed in front with the bumpstops completely compressed, and drivers side shocks fully extended (23")

About 1/2" - 3/4" gap all the way around....maybe.

Time to get some hockey pucks!

**Unlimited04** · 04-20-2010, 05:08 PM

4/20 update

Rubidriver will like this one

More here: Jeep TJ Air Lift Suspension Installation Write-Up.

Called up AirLift, found the part number needed for my lift after measuring the springs - #60811. Was about to order them from Summit Racing...but surprisingly enough I found the correct bags on craigslist. They're also used in WK's - guy lifted his WK and the bags didn't fit anymore. $15

A trip to the hardware store for some fittings, and a trip to a bicycle shop for a Shrader valve fitting, and I've got ~$35 into load leveling airbags in the rear. Well...and I rented some spring compressors...but that doesn't count

The manifold, with a drain plug to remove water...its not quite the lowest point in the system, but it will have to do.

Air lines follows the brake lines on the axle housing, and up the control arm.

Made a little bracket to hold the Shrader valve and connected it to the unused locker pump mount on my tummy tuck.

Now technically I have like 1/2" or so too much bumpstop according to AirLift. I decided NOT to remove the OME bumpstop extension because I'm not to sure about using these AirLift bags as bumpstops at this point.

If anything, I was thinking of hacking 1/2" off the jounce bumper.

I went for a short drive and so far I'm very pleased. At 7 psi (5 psi is minimum) it rides exactly the same, and there is no extra lift, the measurement to the t-case skid is exactly the same. At 20 psi it stiffens the springs up nicely and will be awesome when towing or hauling a heavy load. I can't wait to get em off-road now and see how flex is effected.

UPDATE: I had to modify the jounce bumpers, and reset the bumpstop length for the airbags to work properly.
See part 2 and part 3.

**rubidriver** · 04-20-2010, 06:28 PM

Your right, Rubidriver does like that. He would like it even more if you had used a Rancho OBA to air them up

**RubiconRazorbac** · 04-20-2010, 10:01 PM

Nice

Post up how it does on the trail!

**Unlimited04** · 04-22-2010, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubidriver

Your right, Rubidriver does like that. He would like it even more if you had used a Rancho OBA to air them up

actually I think I'm going to go a different route for in-cab controller...eventually. I already have the Viair 460C with 125psi switch, but haven't gotten around to adding an airtank yet. I'll then put a 0-35 psi precision air pressure regulator in the cab, maybe under the seat, hooked directly to the 125psi tank. I'm thinking a ControlAir Type 100 or Type 850.

Type 850 spec- http://www.controlair.com/downloads/850_spec.pdf
Type 100 spec- http://www.controlair.com/downloads/100_spec.pdf

I've used the Type 100 before and it's accurate to 0.01 psi, it actually bleeds off excess pressure or feeds more pressure continuously as necessary to maintain the exact setting specified. You can mount a gauge right to them. Runs about $100. A liquid filled Wika Gauge runs about $20. Add quick disco air fittings & PE air hose and I'm done. Total cost about $125 from Fiero Fluid Power.