[LJameson]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

went to the junkyard today....

$40-
XJ front spring retainer clips
ZJ V8 tie-rod from a 5.9L
XJ roof rack

Found a HP D30, but it was ABS and non-UpCountry, so it had 3.55s or worse. Decided to wait until I find a 96-99 HP D30 w/ 3.73s & no ABS. All the other XJ's were 00-01, LP's. Got a set of sagging XJ leaf springs from "COLOUXJ", hope to make a camping/off-road trailer out of those some day.

What a shame on CFC - so many XJ's and ZJ's in pristine condition - the ZJ I pulled the tie-rod from was a 5.9L Most of the seats in vehicles were still in great condition. Its gangbusters at the junkyards, they're loving
it.

tell me about it. I just went last weekend to get some interior parts for my xj. There was 7 WJs there, all in perfect shape. And a 2001 green 2 door XJ that still had the battery in it, 60k miles. The interior didn't even looke touched, it was sad. I plan on going tomorrow to get a ZJ tie rod and shift handle. Sounds silly, but it looks and feels nicer then the Tj one and it's a direct fit

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by Jebussaves0

That's bloody brilliant! I've been having this same issue with my JKS storage pines... definitely added this to the list!

thanks, my friend says I should make & sell them. they're really quick to produce on a mill.

ZJ tie-rod is in -

The drivers side TRE is new, and the inner side is still the junkyard special. I pulled it off a 5.9L Limited ZJ, a CFC

Lil' bit of flex:

On the front bumpstops here:

[rubidriver]

Unlimited, Ive been wanting to put this out there for a while just never did it.. I think your Jeep might have been a lil different from the factory. What Im talking about is your caster. After doing the same lift, I had 5.7* caster, you had 4* thats a big difference. What do you think?

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by rubidriver

Unlimited, Ive been wanting to put this out there for a while just never did it.. I think your Jeep might have been a lil different from the factory. What Im talking about is your caster. After doing the same lift, I had 5.7* caster, you had 4* thats a big difference. What do you think?

i don't know, i've been puzzled as well. But I'm a 5.6-5.7* of caster now, with 2.5" lift + 0.75" spacers in front, with cam bolts maxed out.
The only other major difference between our lifts is wheelbase. How about your passenger side spring perch? Mines nice and small!! Gotta love wide manufacturing tolerances....

The factory spec is 7.0 deg +/- 1.0 deg. Maybe I was already on the low side around 6.5* and you were closer to the 8* mark?? Unfortunately I don't have alignment measurements before the lift, do you?

I'm considering going HP D30 to be able to get closer to 7* with adjustable control arms and keep the pinion off the rocks. Ideally, I'd love a bolt in HP D44 in ~61" WMS, stock brackets, 5 on 4.5, TrueTrac, 4.88s, something like the old Venezuelan XJ, but nobody makes a new one (Dynatrac & Solid do, but it costs almost as much as a HP D60 ).

[rubidriver]

Originally Posted by Unlimited04

i don't know, i've been puzzled as well. But I'm a 5.6-5.7* of caster now, with 2.5" lift + 0.75" spacers in front, with cam bolts maxed out.
The only other major difference between our lifts is wheelbase. How about your passenger side spring perch? Mines nice and small!! Gotta love wide manufacturing tolerances....

The factory spec is 7.0 deg +/- 1.0 deg. Maybe I was already on the low side around 6.5* and you were closer to the 8* mark?? Unfortunately I don't have alignment measurements before the lift, do you?

I'm considering going HP D30 to be able to get closer to 7* with adjustable control arms and keep the pinion off the rocks. Ideally, I'd love a bolt in HP D44 in ~61" WMS, stock brackets, 5 on 4.5, TrueTrac, 4.88s, something like the old Venezuelan XJ, but nobody makes a new one (Dynatrac & Solid do, but it costs almost as much as a HP D60 ).

I never noticed my passenger side spring perch being any different from my drivers side. I do not have the specs before my lift. Im betting I was at about 7 and you were about 6 from the start. Im perfectly happy with my caster as of right now, Im not wondering on the road or anything and my pinion angle seems to be okay right now. When I go up to 35s I might need more caster because Im prolly going with 1.5 spacers up front (with Nth relocators rear)

[Unlimited04]

Update!

42RLE + B & M Transmission Temperature Gauge

If you've been following this thread, you'll like this new 42RLE addition

Cost: $54 for B&M kit shipped from Summit Racing, and who knows...~$60 + 5-7 gallons of gas making 3 cussing trips to the hardware/auto parts store.

Concept temp sensor clamp:


Made with lathe & mill:


Drilled a 2-1/16 hole with a hole saw (trip #1 & #2, ~$60 @ hw store):


Sensor wire follows the shift cable out and down the firewall:


Sensor is threaded into the aluminum 'heat sink' & held on by a stainless clamp:

^^its attached to the drivers side line - the hot side.

I put three short pigtails on the gauge wiring so the console can be easily removed, wires are color coded & marked (trip #3, $12 @ auto parts store):


Now the cool part -
The console has a little light that illuminates the shift locations, and this light dims with the dash. I spliced into the orange wire and hooked it to the backlight on the gauge - this means it lights up with the dash, and dims with the dash. Also there is already a ground for the subwoofer, so I reused the factory screw/ground location.


It works!!
160*F after idling for 10 minutes - 210*F coolant temp-


Special thanks to "dbbd1" for giving me the idea for the concept, and sending me a bunch of heat transfer compound, which I packed around the sensor to hopefully make a better heatsink between the aluminum and the brass of the sensor. An easy alternative would be to fill the hole with ATF+4 or air compressor oil or mineral oil and then thread the sensor in before mounting.

[Imped]

Freakin NICE work.

[roadkill]

have you tried it yet on the highway to see how well it works? also what's your plans with the second unit? I'm interested.

[2006_Sport]

Awesome unlimited, I will definitely look into doin this later down the road.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by roadkill

have you tried it yet on the highway to see how well it works? also what's your plans with the second unit? I'm interested.

my plans are to keep it for reference right now. I know there are quite a few people interested in these, so I'm going to start running some numbers...material costs, local quotes, time to make them, price points, etc.

no highway driving yet. I might wrap it with something...header wrap? some sort of heat shield?

[Unlimited04]

well, went wheeling & snow bashing...trans was around 130-170*F most of the time...then all the sudden:




Put it in Neutral and let it idle. Crawled under there...definitely not 360*F. Sensor was covered in muddy water, which tells me its grounding out through the water somehow. Looks like I definitely need to shrink wrap it or something.

EDIT: I have since fixed this issue by placing a 1/8" thick little piece of rubber between the nut/wire and the sensor. It keeps the water from working into the sensor and creating a conduction path, which is all thats needed.

[LJameson]

Did you ever get that trans cooler back on? Or is that how it's running stock?

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by jeepfreak4life7

Did you ever get that trans cooler back on? Or is that how it's running stock?

All stock, no additional trans cooler yet.

[roadkill]

could something as simple as locktite or teflon tape be enough to seal the threads and prevent this?

[Jebussaves0]

Originally Posted by roadkill

could something as simple as locktite or teflon tape be enough to seal the threads and prevent this?

That aluminum is facilitating heat transfer on all sides. He's going to need to insulate it from everything except the the tube in question if it's to remain accurate under less-than-ideal conditions