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Clayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!Baseline 4x4 Lifetime Warranty 4340 Chromoly Axle Shaft KiClayton Off Road - JK Prototype Gas Tank Skid

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Unread 02-19-2013, 01:59 PM   #511
Zetto
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Denver, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
Some trails have gates, some don't. Personally snow wheeling doesn't appeal to me, that's assuming I even have time to go wheeling during the school year...

I'll leave the snow for skiing and summer sun for top and doors off wheeling.
This Saturday I am going with the Mile-Hi Jeep Club up Switzerland Trail just out of Boulder (Its supposed to be an easy and scenic drive but snow drifts are expected). I wasn't planning on doing any winter wheeling considering I don't have a front locker but it feel like I have cabin fever after spending all day on JeepForum. Hopefully this will tide me over for now.

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Savvy inspired LJ

06 Silver LJ
Savvy 4" lift with aluminum CA -- Currie AntiRock (Front) -- Currie F/R Trackbars -- Savvy Modular Under Armor
BF Goodrich T/A KO 285/75/16 on 16" Moab powdercoated black -- Vanco 16" big brake kit
JeeperMan swing-away tire carrier with tub extensions (JSPUex)
Four X Doctor Rocker Guards
Hella E-Code Housings -- ARB H4 Headlight Harness (M002) -- KC 130 watt SlimLite mounted on windshield
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Unread 02-19-2013, 02:10 PM   #512
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetto View Post
Are the trails actually off limits in the winter or do you just avoid snow wheeling (I am not sure I can wait that long )?
I'm with freeskier....winter is for snowboarding and snowshoeing. Summer/Fall is for mountain biking, wheeling & camping.

Besides, where I like to go wheeling there is normally several feet of snow this time of year....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetto View Post
I would love to check out your rig sometime and see how the transmission cooler is setup.
sure. I'll shoot you a PM within the next few days.

Switzerland trail is alright. We haven't had much snow & it is a drought, so it might be fairly open. Usually it's pretty deep up there around this time. In the summer time its easy enough for a car.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 05:11 PM   #513
GMBNT42
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4.88's and 33's and still not enough huh? damn.........
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Unread 03-04-2013, 09:40 PM   #514
Zetto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
I'm with freeskier....winter is for snowboarding and snowshoeing. Summer/Fall is for mountain biking, wheeling & camping.

Besides, where I like to go wheeling there is normally several feet of snow this time of year....



sure. I'll shoot you a PM within the next few days.

Switzerland trail is alright. We haven't had much snow & it is a drought, so it might be fairly open. Usually it's pretty deep up there around this time. In the summer time its easy enough for a car.
I sent a PM your way about this weekend. Please let me know if you can lend a hand. Thank you!

Switzerland was a blast and I really enjoyed getting out in the snow. I definitely need a front locker which will be addressed with a ProRock 40/60 hybrid next tax return. I am planning to add a winch by Summer as I hear they are really a necessity around here.
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Savvy inspired LJ

06 Silver LJ
Savvy 4" lift with aluminum CA -- Currie AntiRock (Front) -- Currie F/R Trackbars -- Savvy Modular Under Armor
BF Goodrich T/A KO 285/75/16 on 16" Moab powdercoated black -- Vanco 16" big brake kit
JeeperMan swing-away tire carrier with tub extensions (JSPUex)
Four X Doctor Rocker Guards
Hella E-Code Housings -- ARB H4 Headlight Harness (M002) -- KC 130 watt SlimLite mounted on windshield
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Unread 03-04-2013, 10:01 PM   #515
freeskier93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zetto View Post
I sent a PM your way about this weekend. Please let me know if you can lend a hand. Thank you!

Switzerland was a blast and I really enjoyed getting out in the snow. I definitely need a front locker which will be addressed with a ProRock 40/60 hybrid next tax return. I am planning to add a winch by Summer as I hear they are really a necessity around here.
I bet there was plenty of snow. Boulder got kinda dumped on that week.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 06:55 PM   #516
Zetto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
I bet there was plenty of snow. Boulder got kinda dumped on that week.
We consistently encountered snow for the majority of the trip and that big storm rolled in Saturday night. There were a few areas in the sun where snow was scarce but the majority of the trail was covered. At one point we encountered snow that was knee deep and a few got stuck.
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Savvy inspired LJ

06 Silver LJ
Savvy 4" lift with aluminum CA -- Currie AntiRock (Front) -- Currie F/R Trackbars -- Savvy Modular Under Armor
BF Goodrich T/A KO 285/75/16 on 16" Moab powdercoated black -- Vanco 16" big brake kit
JeeperMan swing-away tire carrier with tub extensions (JSPUex)
Four X Doctor Rocker Guards
Hella E-Code Housings -- ARB H4 Headlight Harness (M002) -- KC 130 watt SlimLite mounted on windshield
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Unread 04-17-2013, 04:44 PM   #517
Chest_Rockwell
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Unlimited,
Thanks for posting this information. I busted the stock bolt while trying to tighten it. I'm all set now after a trip to AAA Metric Supply in Denver.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
had some death wooble symptoms the other day, so decided to check the track bar. broke the axle side front track bar bolt this morning checking the torque....today wasnt my day. Spent 5 hours screwing with the t-case linkage too....

The stock track bar bolt is 10.9 and has 9mm shaft, but M10 (10mm x 1.5) threads....which is why its so loose inside your track bar bushing.

Stock Bolt Shaft (9mm):


Stock Threads (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Shaft (10mm):


Normal Class 8.8, Class 10.9 and Class 12.9 Bolt Threads (10mm):


This makes no sense to me, because the OD of the non-thread shaft should be the same as the major diameter as the threads, not the minor diameter. Every bolt you buy at the hardware store is like this, but Jeep's bolt isn't. And the hole is drilled to 7/16" - so its a custom metric bolt in a standard drilled hole. Whatever, typical Chrysler engineering...crap like this is why they went bankrupt.

So the local hardware store doesn't have any hex head 10.9 bolts because they are morons. they only have 8.8 hex heads, and 12.9 socket head cap screws. Then the hardware store guy tried to tell me Class 8.8 = Grade 8.

I bought two hex Class 8.8 and one socket head cap Class 12.9, all M10 x 1.5.

[Engineering Speak]

All 10.9 bolts have a tensile strength of 145 ksi (kilo-psi), all 8.8 bolts have a tensile strength of 116 ksi. For reference Grade 5 = 120 ksi and Grade 8 = 150 ksi. Class 12.9 has a tensile strength of 174 ksi. Source: www.mcmaster.com

Many say the factory torque spec is 55 ft-lbs. BUT - a Class 8.8 M10 bolt can only take 40-45 ft-lbs of torque before the threads distort and the bolt is useless. A Class 10.9 M10 bolt can take ~55-60 ft-lbs. A Class 12.9 M10 bolt can take ~73 ft-lbs.
Source: http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html and http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm and and http://books.google.com/books?id=_Pk...esign+handbook

[/Engineering Speak]

What does this mean? Since the stock torque spec is at the upper limit of a 10.9 and grade 8 bolt, you can very easily overtorque the stock bolt, causing the threads to deform and the next time you go to use the bolt it is useless and will not torque properly. It will just snap. Thats what happened to me. The solution - buy a 12.9 M10x1.5 75mm bolt and torque to 55-65 ft-lbs.

Also, every M10 x 1.5 bolt you buy from McMaster or a hardware store will have a 10mm OD shaft instead of the stock 9mm, which makes it fit more snug in the track bar (a good thing!). You'll have to drill out the stock washer, I worked it with a 3/8" drill bit for a while. I couldn't find a thick, larger OD 10mm ID washer to match the stock one.

Finished - Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw, Class 10.9 thin washer + drill out stock washer:


I reused the stock nut after chasing the threads with an M10 tap - I chewed them up trying to get the busted bolt out. Torqued to 55-60 ft-lbs and used a bit of blue lock-tite. make sure to tighten the Class 12.9 M10 bolt with an 8mm Allen head - careful not to strip the allen head!
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Unread 04-17-2013, 05:55 PM   #518
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chest_Rockwell View Post
Unlimited,
Thanks for posting this information. I busted the stock bolt while trying to tighten it. I'm all set now after a trip to AAA Metric Supply in Denver.
good deal.


since this got bumped, i might as well update it.

On the trailer, I got the lid frame fully welded, and got the hinges installed. I used stainless steel hinges, with removable pins - basically like interior house door hinges. This means I'll be able to remove the entire lid easily if I need to use the trailer for hauling large items. The hinges were welded on with 308L stainless steel wire and 100% argon gas using a Millermatic 211 Autoset.



#9 x 3/4" flattened expanded metal welded on the front:


The latches to keep it closed will be two stainless CJ style hood latches. The lid will get skinned in a higher grade of laminated plywood. I haven't decided if i'm going to body filler + paint the wood to remove the grain appearance, or keep the grain w/ a varnish to give it the "woody" style. The lid itself shouldn't weigh more than 50-60lbs by the time I'm done.

plywood cut to fit:


On the Jeep, mrblaine was nice enough to send me a good used set of 48mm calipers and some BMB pads & new front rotors to test out (link here).

I had Crown Performance make me some custom brake lines to eliminate my current Crown TJ brake line vs shock clearance problem, and I will be installing them with the 48mm calipers. The TJ caliper banjo bolts are horizontally mounted, so lines end up vertical...but the Explorer/Sport Trac caliper banjo bolts are oriented different, so I ended up with the Crown TJ lines pointing right at the shocks. At full lock & full stuff they rub pretty bad...which I see all the time on switchbacks in the mountains. I bent them out of the way best I could, but these new custom lines will use low profile caliper ends to fix this orientation issue once and for all.

Old:


New:


My rear brakes are due for maintenance as well, so I ordered some new rotors & pads from Advance Auto and will hopefully get to those soon too.
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Unread 05-25-2013, 12:55 AM   #519
midnight_f150
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What do you think about Metal Cloak new trac bar?
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Unread 06-16-2013, 10:23 AM   #520
Unlimited04
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Trailer lid is almost done:


Wheeling Pics!

Myself, Zetto and COLOUXJ hit up Argentine Pass/McClellen Mtn and ran into some snow, and much of the trail(s) were closed/snowed in, but we did make it to Waldorf.





New toy! GoPro video going up to the Waldorf mine site:
http://youtu.be/mCx-i6dsb8M
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Unread 06-28-2013, 07:25 PM   #521
Unlimited04
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Trailer is DONE (for now). Lid is finished. Brakes work. Jeep is wired for 7-way RV connector, with Draw-Tite Activator II brake controller. Reverse lights on the trailer will also activate when the reverse lights on the Jeep are operating.



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Unread 06-28-2013, 11:58 PM   #522
BimotaBruce
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Nice job!!!
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Unread 06-29-2013, 12:07 AM   #523
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Trailer is DONE
Looks good.

Do you know how much it weighs?...
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Unread 07-02-2013, 06:19 AM   #524
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimotaBruce View Post
Nice job!!!
thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Looks good.

Do you know how much it weighs?...
not to sure yet....the scale i wanted to use was down. The unloaded tongue weight is ~40-50 lbs according to my bathroom scale. Overall, I'm guessing around 500-600 lbs max, but I'll get an official weight soon. Two guys can lift the whole rear end without much trouble, but I can't lift it by myself.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 08:40 AM   #525
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Looks good!
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Be very careful with the wife mod. Uninstallation can be extremely expensive. Wife mods have been known to take the Jeep and all other mods during the uninstall process. Also, make sure you service your wife mod properly as often as humanly possible. Wife mods not properly serviced may malfunction or uninstall themselves at any time.
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