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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 05-30-2010, 07:15 PM   #241
Unlimited04
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Tested the AirLift bags too.

Normal ride height (21"):


Moving time:

Firewood on the back:


Sagged 3":


Got an inch back with 20psi:


It drove and rode sooo much better with the bags inflated. Much more stable with the heavy load.

Got the lower Rokmen control arms installed too. Very beefy stuff, I love em! Stock 15.75" in the rear, and 16-1/8" in front got me 6 caster. Front uppers will go on with the HP D30, and the rear uppers will go on with the DC shaft.


Last edited by Unlimited04; 07-03-2010 at 05:21 PM..
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Unread 06-06-2010, 09:42 PM   #242
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Airbag update:
After some careful testing off-road and on-road with the Airlift bags, I decided I needed to adjust the bumpstops. I discovered they didnt allow the jounce bumper to be compressed all the way, and with some air in them, the AirBags can't compress entirely themselves, so i was loosing a bit of rear axle articulation. problem being was the jounce bumper was constantly depressed 1/2" into the airbags.

so i went junkyard hunting...found that ZJ front's use the same jounce bumper and cup the TJ does in the rear. So i grabbed 2 sets of bumpstops from ZJ and XJ fronts for testing (8 total). Thats a crapload of bumpstops.


Stock bumpstop on the left, ZJ #1 in the middle, and ZJ #2 on the right.

The middle one and the TJ one actually have the same part number on them. The ZJ #1 and #2 are different part numbers and actually different impact head design, but not a significant difference.

eyeballed the distance to be removed, and used a wood saw to hacked em down:

still enough to keep the bumpstop cup off the airbags too.

now the airbags fit properly, maybe 3/8" space there, unloaded with 1/2 tank.
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Unread 07-03-2010, 04:11 PM   #243
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Brakes suck. Gearing sucks. OD is useless. Speedo is off. But damn it looks cool

I got a feeling the bald 31s will migrate back on till the regear is done.

EDIT: What's really interesting:
31s:
Steelie 16x8 Soft-8 wheels = 37 lbs
245/75R16 BFG AT = 48 lbs
Total: 85 lbs.
33s:
Procomp 1069 15x8 wheels = 16 lbs
33x12.50R15 Duratrac = 48 lbs.
Total: 64 lbs

Thats a 21 lb savings between each tire/wheel assembly, and 84 lb savings between all 4 rotating tires. Including the bald 33x12.50R15 BFG AT spare, thats a 100 lb savings moving from 31s to 33s.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 07-03-2010 at 08:04 PM..
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Unread 07-08-2010, 02:52 PM   #244
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Just saw this. Looks great Unlimited! I know you thnk the gearing sucks but how are 3.73s with 33s overall. Im sure you've read in places that I plan on going to 33s with the stock gearing for a while and just want a general consensus of it.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 02:55 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach06 View Post
Just saw this. Looks great Unlimited! I know you thnk the gearing sucks but how are 3.73s with 33s overall. Im sure you've read in places that I plan on going to 33s with the stock gearing for a while and just want a general consensus of it.
its tolerable for a short time imo, but i am gonna regear eventually when the wifes jeep gets done. i live in flat florida though, but i find turning od off on the expressway helps.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 03:03 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach06 View Post
Just saw this. Looks great Unlimited! I know you thnk the gearing sucks but how are 3.73s with 33s overall. Im sure you've read in places that I plan on going to 33s with the stock gearing for a while and just want a general consensus of it.
I put the 31s back on so i can actually drive on the highway.

around town under 50mph, with OD off, it wasn't too bad. but going uphill in 2nd or 3rd at lower speeds it would bog down and require alot of throttle. tranny shifted like crap, but thats nothing new. With 33s, the engine idling at 600rpms actually didn't have enough torque to roll the vehicle forward from standstill in 1st gear.

on the highway OD was worthless unless going over 75mph. below 55-57-ish mph, i sometimes kicked into 2nd to merge, pass or regain speed if someone cut me off. I didn't dare go into the mountains, but climbing gentle hills just on the highways around denver had me using 2nd and 3rd to maintain 55-65mph. At 60mph in 3rd, it turns 2200rpms, in OD, it turns ~1500. Worthless.

In short, it was worse than the 17 ft U-haul box truck i drove 2 weeks ago....hence 31s are back on until HPD30 swap/regearing is complete. Btw, speeds measured via GPS, not inaccurate speedo. Also keep in mind i'm at 5300 ft elevation, i can only get 12 psi MAP at full throttle, if i'm lucky.

i found a good air pressure range, the C-load rated 33s ride much better, less tire shimmy, but i still need to fix something in the front end. oh well, HP D30 will be done as soon as my OTC ball joint adapters get here.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 03:16 PM   #247
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Thanks for that man. That puts it into perspective for when I get mine and when I need to start saving for a regear.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 03:32 PM   #248
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Those 33s look great

If you don't mind saying, how much did those new ProComp rims cost? I think I'm going to go with a lighter rim next time I need new tires.
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Unread 07-08-2010, 06:59 PM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zachbh View Post
Those 33s look great

If you don't mind saying, how much did those new ProComp rims cost? I think I'm going to go with a lighter rim next time I need new tires.
thanks wheels i got used from craigslist (5 for $180, $36 each). a few of the rim edges have bad rock rash, but they're all straight and actually have less runout than my previous new 15x8 steelies did.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 07-08-2010 at 07:12 PM..
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Unread 07-08-2010, 07:31 PM   #250
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thanks wheels i got used from craigslist (5 for $180, $36 each). a few of the rim edges have bad rock rash, but they're all straight and actually have less runout than my previous new 15x8 steelies did.
That's a great find! CL is awesome haha. I'm looking around on there for a smaller set of all terrain tires right now.
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Unread 07-17-2010, 07:04 AM   #251
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got the Vanco knuckles and new ball joints on the HP D30, but learned the caliper spacers I have are 0.190" too thick, so I need to turn them down on a lathe to 0.530", then my HP D30 will be ready to throw in and drive to the regear shop also ended up selling my NV241OR and all the parts I'd collected for that, after much careful consideration...but its got a good home, and will be used by someone who needs it more than me...and I got a NP231 w/ AA SYE, Tom Wood CV shaft and Novak mechanical shifter out of the deal.

but, the newest and favorite mod:


You can find anything on Ebay:
Do Not Screw Jeep Warning Sticker Decal Rubicon Sahara: eBay Motors (item 280467292553 end time Jul-18-10 12:17:44 PDT)
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Unread 07-17-2010, 09:18 AM   #252
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Wow. The Jeep looks great with the new tires & wheels. I was checking out your wheel/tire weight comparison....holy cow. I think I am over the whole "blacked out" Jeep thing and after reading your thread, I'm going back to aluminum wheels. Now I just have to get rid of the extra heavy Toyo MT's.
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Unread 07-17-2010, 10:18 AM   #253
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Its....CROOKED!

But a cool sticker nonetheless. And I hear you on the gearing with 33's. Thats how it was with my 32RH, 31's and 3.07's. It sucked balls.
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Unread 07-25-2010, 04:33 PM   #254
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i've got the HP D30 almost done. just need to transfer the JeepMedic control arm skids & shaft assemblies from my LP D30 to the HP D30, and finish setting up the Vanco brakes.

So I'm getting the Explorer rotors mocked up, grind both HP wheel bearings down to fit and start to put the calipers on the knuckles....had it almost done, but couldn't figure out why one side wouldn't seat right...upon closer inspection...I know why the XJ this HP came from was in the junkyard with brand new brakes on the front. It had two different unit bearings on it. I don't have the original parts anymore to check, but I sold the calipers and pads since they were brand new. Well somebody put the wrong unit bearing on!! The owner must have traded it in CFC because the damn brakes wouldn't work right!!



Old style on the left, new style on the right.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 09:47 AM   #255
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finally! fixed yoke!

So after long deliberation, I sold the 241 I got from Gerald, plus all the gear I collected for it...4wd light switch, Novak cable shifter & 1310 yoke. I also got in trade a NV231 w/ AA SYE, some speedo gears, Novak mechanical shifter & a DC driveshaft. I got the non-CV uppers from Sean at Rokmen after realizing what length UCA's I needed.

I also did Knuckelhead's clear tubing mod to the t-case.
I pulled the drain and fill plugs out, drilled and tapped for a 1/8" NPT fitting. The drill size is "R", and you need two brass fitting thats are 1/8"-27 NPT and barbed for 3/8" hose.




The hardest part is grabbing onto the threaded plugs - I used an old 5/8" rubber hose in the vice and tapped really slowly...1/2 turn in, 1/2 turn back. Make sure to not tap too deep, otherwise you won't get enough interference fit on the plug to create a proper seal.

Now I'm lubricating the tub


Pinion angle is dialed in using Rokmen control arms:



Drives smooth as stock! perfect! driveshaft might be a little too long...still need to measure and find out exactly.

Lowers are stock length (15.75"), uppers are a fuzz over 13.75", about 13-13/16". The Riddler diff cover hits & rubs the Kilby gas tank skid..... I'll need to get a new diff cover.

Last edited by Unlimited04; 08-10-2010 at 09:10 AM..
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