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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 07-02-2013, 09:38 AM   #526
rusty762
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Nice trailer Unlimited!

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Unread 07-14-2013, 05:24 PM   #527
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Are you still liking the truetracs? Any complaints or regrets? I'm considering putting them front and rear when I regear.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 07:54 AM   #528
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by rusty762 View Post
Nice trailer Unlimited!
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Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
Looks good!
thanks guys!

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Originally Posted by djcrab View Post
Are you still liking the truetracs? Any complaints or regrets? I'm considering putting them front and rear when I regear.
I love the TrueTracs, especially the front. My only complaint is the rear doesn't have a preload like the D30 front, so it needs to spin before it starts to engage. Despite that, the rear is still a good compromise for me for what I do - where the Jeep sees multiple-duty with snow, ice, street, highway, rocks, loose gravel, etc.

---------
Updates!
Some of you may have followed my cooling issues while running A/C, which I've had since the Jeep was basically new. The dealership investigated under warranty but couldn't figure it out.

Well the issues haven't changed much. Tried multiple cooling flushes, thermostat change, new cap, Hesco high-flow thermostat housing, trans cooler before the radiator, 9-blade and 10-blade Explorer fans, and multiple fan clutches (Hayden 2791, 2771, 2793).

Some things made incremental improvements, or even made things worse in some cases. Belt slippage was a big issue with the Hayden fan clutches (see links above).

Well some had suggested maybe it was the water pump. At 100k miles in the middle of summer, I decided it was time to hopefully address the cooling issues once and for all.

So I bought a new Mopar water pump, and a new Mopar fan clutch. The stock fan clutch worked the best throughout my other investigation, so I was looking for 52027883AC, the original Jeep PN (made by Delphi). Interestingly enough, the PN had been made obsolete and replaced with 68064765AA.

Upon receiving 68064765AA, I immediately realize it's physically identical to the Hayden 2791 (1994 Dodge B-van v8 HD fan clutch). I assumed it was going to cause belt squealing issues again, but I had to gave it a try anyway...it was double the price of the Hayden 2971 locally. Surprisingly enough, it did not cause any slippage of the belt. So my conclusion is the new Mopar fan clutch (68064765AA) is made by Hayden for Mopar, but the internals are somehow different. So even though from WeRMopar it's double the price of a Hayden from Checker, it's still worth it, I guess.

Next, I decided to replace the radiator, since I've thought this was the issue all along. Theory being the air leaving the A/C condenser is hot enough that the radiator can't shed adequate heat fast enough. I measured the stock radiator with calipers - 1 row of 1.25" tubes. I wanted a radiator with 2-rows of 1" tubes, which should almost double the surface area for heat transfer. I looked at American Eagle (Champion), Silla and Drake Off-Road. When I called Champion, they were out of stock and I didn't get a good feeling from the company. When I called Silla, they couldn't even tell me the specs of their own radiator and the person I talked to was a complete moron. But when I talked with Drake Off-Road, I got a knowledgeable and informative person on the phone who was quite helpful.



FWIW, while the radiator was out, I inspected the stock radiator & condenser airflow path - no clogs or blockage at all. Shined a light through it. There was some dirt and leaves between the radiator and the condenser, but only a minimal amount which was easily vacuumed away by my shop vac.

The Drake Radiator is deeper than the stock radiator, and the new fan clutch is closer to the radiator. I've got poly motor mounts, therefore the motor moves very little, so I'm not worried about contact.



While the radiator was out I also replaced the water pump. As I had suspected, the stock water pump was in great shape and it did not need replaced. But if it lasted 100k, hopefully the new one will also last 100k as well. I also replaced the heater hose, heater-to-water pump pipe, and both the upper and lower radiator hoses.

old water pump:

clear, no damage, build up or gunk.

new water pump:


When inspecting the block, water pump and radiator internals I saw only minor corrosion, as I would expect at 100k miles. Very minimal mineral gunk build up (I did run well water through it for a while). I flushed the whole system with 100% distilled water once before and after the radiator swap.



While I had the radiator out, I also unmounted the A/C condenser, pulled the V-member off the grill and took the opportunity to install a bigger transmission cooler. This one is a junkyard grab, off a 3/4-ton GM truck. I fabricated a mount to attach it to the V-member. I relocated the rearview mirror temp-sensor to below the grill to make room.



I also tried to fit a Denso electric pusher fan off a Land Rover in front of all that, but it was too tight. I was intending to fabricate a whole new crossmember to replace the stock V-member, but I just couldn't make the big trans cooler fit with the electric fan. If I can find a small ultra skinny fan that will fit inside the grill, I may install it behind the winch where air flow is minimal. I want to hook it to switch on dash for airflow when the Jeep is stationary in condensed city traffic.

So far no unexplained leaks or anything funny. Currently in the process of driving with the new cooling system & putting it through paces. No significant results yet, but I'll keep updating if anyone is interested. I may be making a 3000 mile trip this fall, so everything needs to be tip-top shape.

While I had the front end torn down, I also replaced the worn out front sway bar bushings with Moog bushings.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 08:44 AM   #529
MWV247
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Thats a sweet radiator you got there. Id like to replace mine -Ive always hated the plastic radiators -everything to save a buck Jeep. You might also try giving your engine a good bath and cleaning it up. Ive always found that a clean engine runs better and is more enjoyable to troubleshoot. Prehaps hood vents are in your future? Have you considered losing the engine driven fan and just running an electric? Ive heard of MPG gains with that -would be good for your 3000 mile trip!
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Unread 07-19-2013, 09:04 AM   #530
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Thats a sweet radiator you got there. Id like to replace mine -Ive always hated the plastic radiators -everything to save a buck Jeep. You might also try giving your engine a good bath and cleaning it up. Ive always found that a clean engine runs better and is more enjoyable to troubleshoot. Prehaps hood vents are in your future? Have you considered losing the engine driven fan and just running an electric? Ive heard of MPG gains with that -would be good for your 3000 mile trip!

more on hood vents here
...it's been years, but i still can't bring myself to cut yet.

fwiw, replacement electric fans are less efficient than the stock mechanical stuff. no interest in spending a few hundred bucks to get worse results. if I install an electric, it'll be a pusher in front.
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Unread 07-21-2013, 08:49 PM   #531
joe_jeep
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u have tried pretty much everything, what else could the cooling issue be?
im not sure an electric pusher fan will help, but i guess its worth a try.

being in colorado, is possible it could be elevation related? just a random idea?

you are diligent to say the least!
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Unread 07-21-2013, 09:17 PM   #532
Unlimited04
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u have tried pretty much everything, what else could the cooling issue be?
i'm pretty sure the cooling issue was the stock radiator just wasn't sufficient in my case. That's the only thing it could have been, I covered all the other bases!

I hammered the Jeep today to try to heat it up...drove it hard, lots of downshifts & high revs, A/C full blast, blazing hot ambient temps. I couldn't get the engine/tranny to heat up past 207F/160F....over 60+ miles.

Previously, driving like that I would have had to turn the A/C off and roll the windows down, or it would have been at 240+F in 15 miles or less.....

I'll reserve final judgement until I'm climbing I-70 w/ A/C on while towing my trailer, and I'm stuck in congested rush hour traffic in 100+F heat. But so far, this Drake radiator is cooling the 4.0L like the OEM radiator did in the middle of winter, but it's the height of summer. I think I've finally got the issues licked.
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Unread 07-21-2013, 10:06 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
i'm pretty sure the cooling issue was the stock radiator just wasn't sufficient in my case. That's the only thing it could have been, I covered all the other bases!

I hammered the Jeep today to try to heat it up...drove it hard, lots of downshifts & high revs, A/C full blast, blazing hot ambient temps. I couldn't get the engine/tranny to heat up past 207F/160F....over 60+ miles.

Previously, driving like that I would have had to turn the A/C off and roll the windows down, or it would have been at 240+F in 15 miles or less.....

I'll reserve final judgement until I'm climbing I-70 w/ A/C on while towing my trailer, and I'm stuck in congested rush hour traffic in 100+F heat. But so far, this Drake radiator is cooling the 4.0L like the OEM radiator did in the middle of winter, but it's the height of summer. I think I've finally got the issues licked.
Do you still have the OEM radiator? The next time I stop by we should do a comparison to see if there are any apparent differences.
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Unread 07-22-2013, 06:30 AM   #534
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Do you still have the OEM radiator? The next time I stop by we should do a comparison to see if there are any apparent differences.
I do indeed still have the OEM radiator, along with the water pump & all hoses. Saving them as spares...for now.

I also got the stainless electric horn installed...this thing is going to be fun!

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Unread 07-22-2013, 09:41 AM   #535
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is it loud like a train horn? had one on my semi, it was sweet!
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Unread 07-22-2013, 03:37 PM   #536
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Did you ever get any further on the rear shock muounts?

I want to try something like that on mine, but I am not sure how to go about it without losing quite a bit of ground clearance.

On the front, I toyed with the idea of either using a non jeep spec shock, or cutting out the bar pin and mounting the shock onto a longer LCA bolt.

What size is the lower shock bushing with the bar pin removed, do you know?

Thanks for all the great tech, I had a YJ for several years, and this is a whole new bag of tricks to learn on a TJ.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 07:52 AM   #537
Unlimited04
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is it loud like a train horn? had one on my semi, it was sweet!

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Did you ever get any further on the rear shock muounts?
they're still sitting on my bench....will get to them eventually as I chisel away at the to-do-list.

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What size is the lower shock bushing with the bar pin removed, do you know?
no clue. I use OME shocks, which have the bar pin bonded to the bushing, and I have correctly setup bumpstops, so I've never had any issues with bar pins...
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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:29 PM   #538
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What's do you have planned for the next stage of the build? Or is this set for a while.
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Unread 07-25-2013, 06:05 AM   #539
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I noticed, in a picture of your engine, you by passed the crankcase ventilation system, I was under the impression it is connected to negative pressure in order to reduce outward pressures on engine oil seals and gaskets... or is it just EPA's requirement to reduce emissions. Your thoughts please?

By the way I love your builds
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Unread 07-25-2013, 07:30 AM   #540
Unlimited04
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I noticed, in a picture of your engine, you by passed the crankcase ventilation system, I was under the impression it is connected to negative pressure in order to reduce outward pressures on engine oil seals and gaskets... or is it just EPA's requirement to reduce emissions. Your thoughts please?

By the way I love your builds
the crank case vents manage blow-by, there are two crank case breathers on our 4.0L's - one on the rear, and one on the front. the rear goes directly from the valve cover to the intake manifold, which is always under vacuum. the front goes to the intake tube, which is only under vacuum when the throttle body is open. older vehicles didn't have that type of setup, they just vented to the atmosphere. what annoys me about the front into the intake tube is it sucks oil into the throttle body and dirties up your intake system. As far as I know, they do this to prevent venting the oil into the atmosphere (emissions), instead piping it into the motor to burn it. With my modified setup, it just blows oil into that filter vent, which gets dirty and I have to clean it.

What I really should do is make/buy an air/oil separator, also called a "catch-can" in the racing world.

http://gormlessracing.blogspot.com/2...crankcase.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ7Z2F51fzs
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