Originally Posted by rusty762
Nice trailer Unlimited!
Originally Posted by NotURMailman
Originally Posted by djcrab
Are you still liking the truetracs? Any complaints or regrets? I'm considering putting them front and rear when I regear.
I love the TrueTracs, especially the front. My only complaint is the rear doesn't have a preload like the D30 front, so it needs to spin before it starts to engage. Despite that, the rear is still a good compromise for me for what I do - where the Jeep sees multiple-duty with snow, ice, street, highway, rocks, loose gravel, etc.
Some of you may have followed my cooling issues while running A/C, which I've had since the Jeep was basically new. The dealership investigated under warranty but couldn't figure it out.
Well the issues haven't changed much. Tried multiple cooling flushes, thermostat change, new cap, Hesco high-flow thermostat housing
, trans cooler before the radiator, 9-blade and 10-blade Explorer fans, and multiple fan clutches (Hayden 2791, 2771, 2793).
Some things made incremental improvements, or even made things worse in some cases. Belt slippage was a big issue with the Hayden fan clutches (see links above).
Well some had suggested maybe it was the water pump. At 100k miles in the middle of summer, I decided it was time to hopefully address the cooling issues once and for all.
So I bought a new Mopar water pump, and a new Mopar fan clutch. The stock fan clutch worked the best throughout my other investigation, so I was looking for 52027883AC, the original Jeep PN (made by Delphi). Interestingly enough, the PN had been made obsolete and replaced with 68064765AA.
Upon receiving 68064765AA, I immediately realize it's physically identical to the Hayden 2791 (1994 Dodge B-van v8 HD fan clutch). I assumed it was going to cause belt squealing issues again, but I had to gave it a try anyway...it was double the price of the Hayden 2971 locally. Surprisingly enough, it did not cause any slippage of the belt. So my conclusion is the new Mopar fan clutch (68064765AA) is made by Hayden for Mopar, but the internals are somehow different. So even though from WeRMopar it's double the price of a Hayden from Checker, it's still worth it, I guess.
Next, I decided to replace the radiator, since I've thought this was the issue all along. Theory being the air leaving the A/C condenser is hot enough that the radiator can't shed adequate heat fast enough. I measured the stock radiator with calipers - 1 row of 1.25" tubes. I wanted a radiator with 2-rows of 1" tubes, which should almost double the surface area for heat transfer. I looked at American Eagle (Champion), Silla and Drake Off-Road. When I called Champion, they were out of stock and I didn't get a good feeling from the company. When I called Silla, they couldn't even tell me the specs of their own radiator and the person I talked to was a complete moron. But when I talked with Drake Off-Road, I got a knowledgeable and informative person on the phone who was quite helpful.
FWIW, while the radiator was out, I inspected the stock radiator & condenser airflow path - no clogs or blockage at all. Shined a light through it. There was some dirt and leaves between the radiator and the condenser, but only a minimal amount which was easily vacuumed away by my shop vac.
The Drake Radiator is deeper than the stock radiator, and the new fan clutch is closer to the radiator. I've got poly motor mounts, therefore the motor moves very little, so I'm not worried about contact.
While the radiator was out I also replaced the water pump. As I had suspected, the stock water pump was in great shape and it did not need replaced. But if it lasted 100k, hopefully the new one will also last 100k as well. I also replaced the heater hose, heater-to-water pump pipe, and both the upper and lower radiator hoses.
old water pump:
clear, no damage, build up or gunk.
new water pump:
When inspecting the block, water pump and radiator internals I saw only minor corrosion, as I would expect at 100k miles. Very minimal mineral gunk build up (I did run well water through it for a while). I flushed the whole system with 100% distilled water once before and after the radiator swap.
While I had the radiator out, I also unmounted the A/C condenser, pulled the V-member off the grill and took the opportunity to install a bigger transmission cooler. This one is a junkyard grab, off a 3/4-ton GM truck. I fabricated a mount to attach it to the V-member. I relocated the rearview mirror temp-sensor to below the grill to make room.
I also tried to fit a Denso electric pusher fan off a Land Rover in front of all that, but it was too tight. I was intending to fabricate a whole new crossmember to replace the stock V-member, but I just couldn't make the big trans cooler fit with the electric fan. If I can find a small ultra skinny fan that will fit inside the grill, I may install it behind the winch where air flow is minimal. I want to hook it to switch on dash for airflow when the Jeep is stationary in condensed city traffic.
So far no unexplained leaks or anything funny. Currently in the process of driving with the new cooling system & putting it through paces. No significant results yet, but I'll keep updating if anyone is interested. I may be making a 3000 mile trip this fall, so everything needs to be tip-top shape.
While I had the front end torn down, I also replaced the worn out front sway bar bushings with Moog bushings.