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Unread 07-30-2011, 06:02 PM   #346
freeskier93
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After looking through their inventory for some stuff I thought their stuff was overpriced as well.

Looks fun but damn, it's like a two hour drive from Longmont and a tank of gas. I'll have to think about it and get back to you.

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Unread 07-30-2011, 09:35 PM   #347
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Unread 08-04-2011, 12:24 AM   #348
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Unlimited04 I've been looking for the Class 12.9 M10 x 1.5 75mm bolt from post #69 have you found them out here in Colorado? Thanks

Just found it here in Arvada http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=39647&ucst=t
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Unread 08-07-2011, 11:43 AM   #349
Unlimited04
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This is why you check full bump!

I'm installing my OME rear track bar bracket and doing some figuring for rear shock outboards.

Part 1:
The JKS rear adjustable track bar was binding and causing the stock backet to bend, so time to install the OME rear track bar bracket.
See mudb8's picture here:


Part 2:I installed the OME bracket and welded it on.

Part 3:
I decided to check my rear bumpstops. I worked up 1.3" of bumpstop extension, using my 23mm homemade bumpstop extensions, and some grade 8 fender washers.

Part 4:
I pushed the axle up to full bump to check the situation, and saw this:


Anybody see whats going on?


If you noticed the axle isn't at full bump, and actually has some uptravel left, you're correct. Now look at the OME bracket and the FUEL LINES. Yes, the bracket is hitting the fuel lines and causing some major binding since these lines are stiff hard lines!!!

another view:



Part 5: The FIX!

I had to pull more wire from the frame for the fuel pump electrical connector, and use some creative zip tie work to pull the fuel line closer to the frame and higher, actually almost up to the body.

Then I pushed the axle back to full bump.


It now clears, but notice how much further the bracket moves up!


You don't want to be binding your fuel lines at full bump. So remember to check full bump!

and props to Savvy Off-Road. Blaine's gas tank skid does indeed clear the fat Solid diff cover with 1.3" of bumpstop extension.


Now, at full bump...a little pinion angle rotation, but not bad and certainly not enough to warrant spring perch relocation...yet.
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Unread 08-07-2011, 04:35 PM   #350
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While testing full bump - I find the rear track bar doesn't work! It hits the gas tank mount, and the frame! After my issues with the JKS front track bar, it doesn't surprise me the JKS rear doesn't fit either.

This thing would require about 3" of rear bumpstop extension to fit. It hits SOOO hard, the track bar actually gets hung up on it! Big loud bang and the track bar moves past the bolt, and then it lifts above the frame (gas tank mount), and then gets hung up on the way back down! Ridiculous.





I couldn't get the stocker back in due to the pinion rotation, so I'm stuck with this JKS till I can fix it. I'll be going to my friend's shop, where he has a tubing bender & fab equipment, and seeing if we can put a bend in it to avoid the interference. What's really frustrating, after all my front track bar issues, this seem like an easier track bar to make from a design standpoint.

I can see no reason why this bar can't have a bend around the gas tank mount. I emailed JKS on the subject...we'll see what they have to say..... I think they're tired of me pointing out the major design flaws in their track bars.
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Unread 08-07-2011, 04:40 PM   #351
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You know, now that I am SLOWLY getting up to speed on all the suspension and driveline parts on the Jeep I am realizing FAST there is alot more cr@p out there than there are well designed and built aftermarket parts for the Wrangler...........
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Unread 08-08-2011, 12:01 AM   #352
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hmm... regarding the rear trackbar:

I had the same problem with the same lift(!), the same TB bracket and the STOCK trackbar!!

Reason :
1. I have set my rear pinion angle ONLY with adjustable rear uppers.
(now the rotation setups with uppers and lowers becomes reasonable )
2. I did not use a so called angled CV type rear TB bracket, but the OME one.

Fix (for me)
1. I went up with the rear BS length to 1.5-2.0 (I have prothanes ...
and using a CV style angled TB bracket with the STOCK TB for a while was putting quite some torsional stress on the setup with < 3" lift and limited pinion rotation ... and binding/limiting droop, so back to OME bracket)
THE CORRECT fix would be using adjustable lowers as well !
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Unread 08-08-2011, 06:52 AM   #353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
hmm... regarding the rear trackbar:

I had the same problem with the same lift(!), the same TB bracket and the STOCK trackbar!!

Reason :
1. I have set my rear pinion angle ONLY with adjustable rear uppers.
(now the rotation setups with uppers and lowers becomes reasonable )
2. I did not use a so called angled CV type rear TB bracket, but the OME one.

Fix (for me)
1. I went up with the rear BS length to 1.5-2.0 (I have prothanes ...
and using a CV style angled TB bracket with the STOCK TB for a while was putting quite some torsional stress on the setup with < 3" lift and limited pinion rotation ... and binding/limiting droop, so back to OME bracket)
THE CORRECT fix would be using adjustable lowers as well !
thanks chmo. I've already got the lowers adjusted as short as they'll go - Rokmen lowers don't adjust shorter than stock.
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Unread 08-08-2011, 07:16 AM   #354
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Unlimited, I had both of those problems myself even with the Currie Trackbar. It wasn't their fault though. With my build I was outside of their design limitations. Having the 4" SL and on top of that having the drivetrain lift put my CV at steeper angle. What helped me the most was ajust the rear lowers shorter than stock to accomodate the larger tire size. This helped me move the track bar away from the gas tank. However, I didn't still need to custom bend my track bar to fit and I didn't still have contact issues with my evap line just as you point out.

My solutions are the same as yours. I do wonder though if your setup is outside of the design constraints for the JKS bar and that is why you are having issues. I am not sure if there is a one size fits all bend. Perhaps there is something like that since Blaine has made his own track bar for their 3" lift.
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Unread 08-08-2011, 07:23 AM   #355
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Just curious, but does Clayton or Rokmen make an "adjustable" LCA that would be a bit shorter than stock? Clayton has some axle relocation CA brackets that go behind the axle instead of under it. For my LCOG build Im looking into these but would need shorter than stock lower control arms, or adjustables that can be made shorter than stock.
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Unread 08-10-2011, 07:00 AM   #356
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Rear track bar fixed thanks to my friend and a few hours of his time and shop use.

I wanted a flex joint of some type on the axle end, and a stock Clevite on the frame side. So as opportunity knocked, I bought a used RE 1620 track bar & CV bracket off Co4x4.org. Then we heated up the stock track bar (1" solid steel) with an oxy-acet torch, and put two bends in it. First try was way off, so we heated it up again, bent it again. 2nd time the bend looked great, so we hacked off the axle end. We then hacked off the axle end of the RE1620 to use the heim end on the newly bent stock track bar. We ground down the edge of the stock bar to sleeve the RE1620 over it. Two rosettes were cut/drilled in the heim side for welding later. We then reinstalled the bar, set the Jeep approx. to ride height and tack welded the pieces together. We then cycled the suspension to full bump and full droop to check the fabricated track bar. It was discovered one section of the frame above the exhaust rubbed by about 3/8" or 1/2" (in the last 5/8" of uptravel), but otherwise the track bar fit GREAT!

So while he was TIG welding the track bar ends together, I covered the gas tank with a welding blanket and ground a clearance section into gas tank mount of the frame.

Hopefully the heim end holds up well, little worried about the smallness of the diameter of the threads & RE's bung, but time will tell. At least it clears at full bump and only slightly rubs the exhaust at full droop (and only at 2" past my current shock length). The rear suspension is dialed in

I didn't get many pictures because we were trying to work fast, but heres the done pics:




Clearance grind in passenger side of frame:


So if we can do it with an oxy-acet torch and a piece of exhaust tubing as a bending lever, the aftermarket should be able to do it with their fancy benders

I'm still running the reinforcement bracket described here - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/un...l#post10458428

Now that all that clears...maybe its time to screw with outboarding the lower shocks mount
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Unread 08-13-2011, 03:33 PM   #357
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Yup, gotta watch those fuel/evap lines. My evap line broke from the track bar relo bracket, replaced it and moved them out of the way.

My stock rear track bar was also hitting the Savvy skid in the same location. I was able to loosen the nuts and pry the skid rearward a bit as the holes are slotted and it barely clears now.
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Unread 08-13-2011, 08:30 PM   #358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Wolf
Yup, gotta watch those fuel/evap lines. My evap line broke from the track bar relo bracket, replaced it and moved them out of the way.

My stock rear track bar was also hitting the Savvy skid in the same location. I was able to loosen the nuts and pry the skid rearward a bit as the holes are slotted and it barely clears now.
What bumpstops are you running? Is it not hitting the crossmember that the skid bolts too?

I was wondering yesterday for the people that are hitting the crossmember as well, if anyone has swapped ends and flipped the stock trackbar. Since with a raised axle side bracket, you no longer need to worry about clearing the diff cover with the trackbar, why not use the bend to get the trackbar away from the crossmember at full bump?

As you are viewing the trackbar at this angle, if you just rotated it clockwise, end to end.
image-4095424284.jpg  
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Unread 08-13-2011, 08:58 PM   #359
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Of course some of us no longer have a tailpipe to clear though. Since I've had this LJ I haven't had time to do the Currie rear trackbar. I didn't do it when I did the bracket, because the trackbar was on back order.

Blaine may have some better input on this, but all things being equal, not having to worry about clearance, it really doesn't make a difference which way the trackbar gets turned or rotated, which way its mounted, it's length never changes. In a perfect world you'd just make it a straight bar. Why not swap it all around and see if there is a position you can put it in so it doesn't hit?
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Unread 08-15-2011, 07:49 PM   #360
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Ran Red Cone and Radical Hill this weekend. Started raining at the top of Radical Hill, so we came down the short way and didn't get to run Saints John.






This one's for Boogie


Red Cone has very tight switchbacks on the decent side, where I discovered some issues. In front I rub the inner lip of the fender flares, but not the steel fender...i'm talking less than 1/4" clearance. So, if you intend to run 33x12.50's, I'd say 1.25-1.375" bumpstop extension is minimum if running a 1.25" BL. Discovered I rub the sway bar during steering lock pretty badly when at full flex. even when I zip-tied it up out of the way I ended up bending one of the disco cams after inverting the sway bar several times. lost a JKS retainer pin too. Going to need to adjust the steering stops.
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