My high beams wouldn't switch on by the turn stalk. I changed out the headlight dimmer switch and even with it adjusted fully forward in its slot (toward the driver) it would not activate from the stalk. The turn signal stalk was sloppy as well, hanging limply towards the left turn direction. I knew the wiper switch must be worn and decided to replace the turn signal switch at the same time. Mine is a manual transmission, non-tilt, non-intermittent wiper column. Not sure how big of a difference that is.
Despite what the FSM says, you can disassemble the upper steering column without removing it from the vehicle as seen here.
![Image]()
The turn signal switch for my Jeep is Crown 56007255 and the wiper switch is Rugged Ridge 17236.01.
![Image]()
I found plenty of write-ups for replacing the turn signal switch on the interwebs but none for the wiper switch. So rather than reinvent the wheel, this write up picks up where this turn signal write-up leaves off here.
Now remove the key warning buzzer switch and contacts. For me I was able to grab it with my fingertips and slide it right out. You may need to use needle nose pliers or a paper clip bent to slide in and pull from behind. When re-installing, make sure key is in run position. I just left mine out.
![Image]()
Remove the ignition cylinder. Insert the key and turn to the run position. There is a little tab rather than a screw like most have that needs to be depressed to remove the cylinder. Mine only popped loose about an eigth of an inch. I had to pry it out a little by the key side and then the cylinder just slid out.
![Image]()
Remove the headlight dimmer switch located near the back of the column using an 8mm wrench on the front bolt and a 3/8" wrench on the rear nut (mine may have been replaced at some point). The dimmer switch is activated by a steel rod running down the column from the wiper switch. Slide the dimmer switch actuator rod out from behind.
![Image]()
Remove the rear post that held the headlight dimmer switch. It has an integrated 8mm nut. The headlight dimmer and ignition switch share the same mounts.
![Image]()
Once that is removed the ignition switch is free.
Slide the ignition switch gently to the side until you can pull the ignition switch actuator rod free from underneath. It just pulls out straight down and the end that is seated in the switch is about an inch in length. If you removed the column to dash mounting bracket then you should be able to lift the switch straight up to disconnect the rod as there is ample room.
![Image]()
Remove the preload spring and thrust washer from the column shaft.
![Image]()
Remove the (4) 5/16" screws that hold the key cylinder housing. When re-installing, torque to 60 inch lbs..
![Image]()
Unplug the wiper switch at the connector beneath the dash and carefully slide the housing off the column keeping it level with the ground after removal. Remove the plate from the backside paying careful attention to orientation before it falls out (it will) and then remove the (3) T20 torx screws to separate the back of the housing. Be careful if you have a standard not to loose the wave washer from the screw that holds the housing on as well as the pivot point for the key release lever. Also, lube the wave washer during reassembly. Torque attaching screws to 18 inch lbs.. Don't over tighten the screws. The release lever must move freely. Now you have easy access to the bolt that is holding the wiper switch.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The bolt is a 15mm. Mine was only finger tight so I didn't need a socket. However, when installing I snugged it down a tad more.
![Image]()
Remove the bolt. Slide the old wiper switch out. Slide in the new switch and install the bolt. It takes a little manipulating to get the new one in as it's a tight fit.
![Image]()
After new switch installed.
![Image]()
Installation is the reverse of disassembly. When installing ignition actuator rod to ignition switch, place ignition switch into the off/unlock position (center position) before installing ignition cylinder. To adjust it after install, I found it easiest to turn the key to the lock cylinder to ACC. Then loosen the ignition switch and slide it as far away from the driver as allowed with the actuator rod attached and then back about 1/8" and then tighten. The ACC position on the switch is the frontmost position. This has to be done before the headlight dimmer switch is attached since it will cover the ignition switch stud/nut.
Now my high beams and blinkers are working just like new. They provide a very solid clicking feedback when activated. This is a tedious process yet not difficult.
Despite what the FSM says, you can disassemble the upper steering column without removing it from the vehicle as seen here.
The turn signal switch for my Jeep is Crown 56007255 and the wiper switch is Rugged Ridge 17236.01.
I found plenty of write-ups for replacing the turn signal switch on the interwebs but none for the wiper switch. So rather than reinvent the wheel, this write up picks up where this turn signal write-up leaves off here.
Now remove the key warning buzzer switch and contacts. For me I was able to grab it with my fingertips and slide it right out. You may need to use needle nose pliers or a paper clip bent to slide in and pull from behind. When re-installing, make sure key is in run position. I just left mine out.
Remove the ignition cylinder. Insert the key and turn to the run position. There is a little tab rather than a screw like most have that needs to be depressed to remove the cylinder. Mine only popped loose about an eigth of an inch. I had to pry it out a little by the key side and then the cylinder just slid out.
Remove the headlight dimmer switch located near the back of the column using an 8mm wrench on the front bolt and a 3/8" wrench on the rear nut (mine may have been replaced at some point). The dimmer switch is activated by a steel rod running down the column from the wiper switch. Slide the dimmer switch actuator rod out from behind.
Remove the rear post that held the headlight dimmer switch. It has an integrated 8mm nut. The headlight dimmer and ignition switch share the same mounts.
Once that is removed the ignition switch is free.
Slide the ignition switch gently to the side until you can pull the ignition switch actuator rod free from underneath. It just pulls out straight down and the end that is seated in the switch is about an inch in length. If you removed the column to dash mounting bracket then you should be able to lift the switch straight up to disconnect the rod as there is ample room.
Remove the preload spring and thrust washer from the column shaft.
Remove the (4) 5/16" screws that hold the key cylinder housing. When re-installing, torque to 60 inch lbs..
Unplug the wiper switch at the connector beneath the dash and carefully slide the housing off the column keeping it level with the ground after removal. Remove the plate from the backside paying careful attention to orientation before it falls out (it will) and then remove the (3) T20 torx screws to separate the back of the housing. Be careful if you have a standard not to loose the wave washer from the screw that holds the housing on as well as the pivot point for the key release lever. Also, lube the wave washer during reassembly. Torque attaching screws to 18 inch lbs.. Don't over tighten the screws. The release lever must move freely. Now you have easy access to the bolt that is holding the wiper switch.
The bolt is a 15mm. Mine was only finger tight so I didn't need a socket. However, when installing I snugged it down a tad more.
Remove the bolt. Slide the old wiper switch out. Slide in the new switch and install the bolt. It takes a little manipulating to get the new one in as it's a tight fit.
After new switch installed.
Installation is the reverse of disassembly. When installing ignition actuator rod to ignition switch, place ignition switch into the off/unlock position (center position) before installing ignition cylinder. To adjust it after install, I found it easiest to turn the key to the lock cylinder to ACC. Then loosen the ignition switch and slide it as far away from the driver as allowed with the actuator rod attached and then back about 1/8" and then tighten. The ACC position on the switch is the frontmost position. This has to be done before the headlight dimmer switch is attached since it will cover the ignition switch stud/nut.
Now my high beams and blinkers are working just like new. They provide a very solid clicking feedback when activated. This is a tedious process yet not difficult.
