I really dig the light setup! Might have to steal your idea. My headlights suck and that is a very bad thing where I live. I can't count the number of animals I've almost plowed!

 

Thanks! I've been using them more lately since the deer are on the move. They are definitely handy but remember, a lot of states have laws on how many forward facing lights you can legally drive with. I think Illinois is a total of 4, be it 2 headlights and 2 fog lights or whichever way you want to look at it. I never drive on the highway with mine on because 1. It is illegal but mainly because 2. I don't want to blind oncoming traffic!

Side note, I received part 1 of 5 on Thursday! Not sure when the rest will start showing up.

Also, I'm going to be ordering front and rear sway bar end links. Looking at the Zone links. Anyone have any thoughts on these:

http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=67&gr=16

http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=67&gr=18

My other consideration is the RC quick disconnects. I haven't fully decided because I'm not going to be disconnecting too often and because of that, think the price on the Zone front links might win me over.

Another purchase I'm about to submit to is the Bar Pin Eliminators. I have read extremely good things about them.

I'm not positive when I'll have time to get started on installing the lift but if all the parts are in, I may have the first weekend in December off from the band gigs so that weekend might be the winner! I'll update when I know more. Pics will be involved as well, of course!

 

Sounds like a good plan so far! If Colorado has a law on forward facing lights, they sure don't enforce it. I had 8 on my old XJ. The four on the roof were 100 watts a piece but I only had them on when I knew no one was around cause they were BRIGHT. Then I had two on the bumper at right above hood level. Not sure of the wattage on them but they were aimed well and I could drive in traffic with them because the stock headlights sucked.

 

Thoughts on IRO Upper Spring Retainers? A fellow JF'er is offering me a couple nice deals. What's your thoughts on the IRO Upper Spring Retainer? I know their purpose but don't know much about them. Are they necessary at 3"? I'm thinking on jumping on the deal but just wanted to hear if you all think they are a nice addition to my upcoming setup or if they would not be useful to me.

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Small Update:

I am still receiving lift components. I'm hoping to get everything in next week and do the lift install next weekend.

Yesterday I received the IRO Upper Spring Retainers and Bar Pin Eliminators from sinbad85. Thanks again!

Also, my factory CD Player decided to stop ejecting CD's so I decided to install a Kenwood CD Player (KDC-348U) the Friday after Thanksgiving before going on a trip to Missouri. Turned out well. Below is a picture of the installed CD Player. Here is the LINK for some install hints.

 

Lift Install (Front)

I received all of my lift components last week and decided to install it over the weekend. I started Friday night and finished Saturday morning.

The lift I installed is the 'Kolak Lift':

OME HD Coils
Bilstein 5100/5125 Shocks
JKS Adjustable Track Bar
Rancho HD Steering Stabilizer
New Spring Isolators

Also, I added in Zone Sway Bar End Links and IRO Upper Spring Retainers.

And here we go!

First, soak everything in a penetrant such as Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, etc. in advance. I sprayed everything a few weeks before starting this project and then again the night before. The pesky bolts received a third soaking when they wouldn't break loose. I really recommend doing this multiple times during the week before installing the lift.

Once the penetrant has soaked in for a while, jack up the Jeep (my helper and younger brother, Nicholas) and set both the front driver and passenger side on jack stands:

Remove the tire (good shots of the suspension in its stock form):

Loosen all of the control arm bolts. Changing the suspension height puts added stress on the control arm bushings. By loosening the control arm bolts and then tightening them after the lift install, you reduce the wear on the bushings.

Remove the sway bar end link and the shock's top bolt. To remove the shock's top bolt, Nicholas grabbed the shock bolt directly below the bushing washer with a pair of plyers while I unscrewed the nut on the top side with an extension and an impact wrench (if you don't have one, get one. It makes this job so much easier!).

The axle will droop/fall when these are let loose. I recommend placing a jack under the axle on each side when you remove these pieces so you have control over the droop of the axle.

At this point, once you remove the bottom bolts on the shock, the shock and spring will just lift right out. Here is a shot of the old standard spring next to the OME HD front spring:

Also, once the spring is removed, the isolators will be able to be removed. A pry bar or screw driver will aid in the removal. Old VS New:

And the rusty spring perch. I cleaned it up and sprayed it with rustoleum to help slow the degredation:

I installed IRO Upper Spring Retainers. To do this, you need to tap the hole in the upper spring perch with a 1/2-20 fine thread tap (this is the passenger side. I forgot to take a pic of the drivers side):

Once the hole is threaded, install the new isolators, place the new spring on the lower isolator, drop the spring retainer with the bolt inside of it into the spring, push the spring into the upper spring retainer, then lift the spring retainer into its location and screw the bolt in. I also applied thread lock onto the bolt's threads. There is another option (and possibly better) involving welding a longer bolt into the spring perch and bolting the spring retainer on from the lower portion. I installed it the way I did because I did not have my welder at my new house. If I have issues with the spring retainer falling out, I will be doing the welding trick. Also, to install the bilstein shocks, you will need to buy bolts, washers, and nuts: "The hardware you will need is 4 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" bolts Grade 5 [or 8], 8 small 5/16" washers (grade 8), and 4 5/16" Grade 8 nylock nuts." - Thanks billzcat1:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/comprehensive-bds-fatbobs-2-lift-thread-1154164/#post10793193

Next, install the new end link:

Repeat for passenger side.

And the passenger side spring isolators (New VS Old):

Once the passenger side is done, swap out the steering stabilizer (I forgot to install the boot...):
NOTE: In the following two pictures, the track bar is on backwards. Further down I posted a picture of the track bar on properly as well as the boot on the steering stabilizer.

Next, remove the track bar. The body can be centered above the axle by using a heavy duty ratchet strap. Center the axle and install the track bar:

Once you've installed everything, install the wheels and lower the vehicle back to the ground. Torque everything in the front end to spec at this point.

 

I received all of my lift components last week and decided to install it over the weekend. I started Friday night and finished Saturday morning.

The lift I installed is the 'Kolak Lift':

OME HD Coils
Bilstein 5100/5125 Shocks
JKS Adjustable Track Bar
Rancho HD Steering Stabilizer
New Spring Isolators

Also, I added in Zone Sway Bar End Links and IRO Upper Spring Retainers.

And here we go!

First, soak everything in a penetrant such as Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, etc. in advance. I sprayed everything a few weeks before starting this project and then again the night before. The pesky bolts received a third soaking when they wouldn't break loose. I really recommend doing this multiple times during the week before installing the lift.

Once the penetrant has soaked in for a while, jack up the Jeep (my helper and younger brother, Nicholas) and set both the front driver and passenger side on jack stands:

Remove the tire (good shots of the suspension in its stock form):

Loosen all of the control arm bolts. Changing the suspension height puts added stress on the control arm bushings. By loosening the control arm bolts and then tightening them after the lift install, you reduce the wear on the bushings.

Remove the sway bar end link and the shock's top bolt. To remove the shock's top bolt, Nicholas grabbed the shock bolt directly below the bushing washer with a pair of plyers while I unscrewed the nut on the top side with an extension and an impact wrench (if you don't have one, get one. It makes this job so much easier!).

The axle will droop/fall when these are let loose. I recommend placing a jack under the axle on each side when you remove these pieces so you have control over the droop of the axle.

At this point, once you remove the bottom bolts on the shock, the shock and spring will just lift right out. Here is a shot of the old standard spring next to the OME HD front spring:

Also, once the spring is removed, the isolators will be able to be removed. A pry bar or screw driver will aid in the removal. Old VS New:

And the rusty spring perch. I cleaned it up and sprayed it with rustoleum to help slow the degredation:

I installed IRO Upper Spring Retainers. To do this, you need to tap the hole in the upper spring perch with a 1/2-20 fine thread tap (this is the passenger side. I forgot to take a pic of the drivers side):

Once the hole is threaded, install the new isolators, place the new spring on the lower isolator, drop the spring retainer with the bolt inside of it into the spring, push the spring into the upper spring retainer, then lift the spring retainer into its location and screw the bolt in. I also applied thread lock onto the bolt's threads. There is another option (and possibly better) involving welding a longer bolt into the spring perch and bolting the spring retainer on from the lower portion. I installed it the way I did because I did not have my welder at my new house. If I have issues with the spring retainer falling out, I will be doing the welding trick. Also, to install the bilstein shocks, you will need to buy bolts, washers, and nuts: "The hardware you will need is 4 5/16-18 x 1-1/4" bolts Grade 5 [or 8], 8 small 5/16" washers (grade 8), and 4 5/16" Grade 8 nylock nuts." - Thanks billzcat1:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/comprehensive-bds-fatbobs-2-lift-thread-1154164/#post10793193

Next, install the new end link:

Repeat for passenger side.

And the passenger side spring isolators (New VS Old):

Once the passenger side is done, swap out the steering stabilizer (I forgot to install the boot...):
NOTE: In the following two pictures, the track bar is on backwards. Further down I posted a picture of the track bar on properly as well as the boot on the steering stabilizer.

Next, remove the track bar. The body can be centered above the axle by using a heavy duty ratchet strap. Center the axle and install the track bar:

Once you've installed everything, install the wheels and lower the vehicle back to the ground. Torque everything in the front end to spec at this point.

is your tracbar still installed this way? it is backwards

 

Lift Install (Rear)

Now we move on to the rear.

Jack up the rear and place on jack stands on both sides. Remove the wheels and loosen the control arm bolts:

Another shot of the stock rear suspension:

Remove the sway bar end link and the shock. Again, I recommend placing a jack under the axle in an attempt to prevent it from falling to the ground:

At this point, the spring should be loose:

Remove the spring isolators:

Again, I sprayed the spring perches with rustoleum:

Old Springs and Isolators VS New Springs and Isolators:

Old Sway Bar End Link VS New Sway Bar End Link:

And now magically everything is installed! Haha. I must have missed taking some pictures here. Install the new isolators and slip the rear spring in. Once that is in, install the new shock and the new sway bar end link:

Repeat for passenger side.

Install wheels/tires, lower vehicle, and torque EVERYTHING back to specs.

I should note, I did not need a spring compressor to do this install. I had one in the garage but did not use it. I was able to get the springs in by jacking up the opposite side of the axle with the sway bar disconnected. This was easy for me. Some may find it is easier to use a spring compressor. I will also add, if you use a spring compressor, I recommend wrapping the spring with a ratchet strap and keeping it tight as well. If for some strange reason the compressor were to fail, the ratchet strap should slow down the release of the spring's pressure, possibly preventing a bad outcome to a lift install.

And here are the before and after pictures (currently on 225/75R16's). I am getting tires installed on Thursday and also getting the vehicle aligned some time this week.

Front Before:

Front After:

Rear Before:

Rear After:

Side Shot Before:

Side Shot After:

Ground Clearance After (Before Tires):

Overall, this lift was not too difficult to install. I think the hardest part was deciding on which lift/height to go!

Once I get the new tires installed (I'm ordering them tomorrow), I will post more pictures with initial and final measurements. I think I am going to go with 245/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs though it has also been suggested I bump it up to 265/75R16 Duratracs. Also, KM2's and BFG A/T's have been suggested to me. Feel free to offer advice/comments!

 

One final note, call me crazy but what is this (on top of where the brake lines come together, notice the tube that has slipped? - My axle droop may cause this to pop off...):

 

That is the axle vent tube. It runs up behind your fuel door area so you don't suck water into your axle while driving through puddles. You can re-route it yourself to find the slack you need.

Looks like a great start, what are you planning on for tires?

 

Lift looks great!

Gotta love a lot of pictures, helps a lot of people too!

I might be crazy and have mine on the wrong way, but I think your track bar is backwards?

 

Damnit. I believe you are correct. Haha. I looked at JKS's instructions for that like 3 times and for some reason my mind told me the correct install was backwards. Oh well, at least that's easy to flip over. I just pulled the instructions back up and it says the solid end goes on the chassis.

I'm an idiot. Thanks for catching that!

 

Right on. I would have thought that would have been on the differential housing.

I think I'm going with 245/75R16 (31) Duratracs. It has been suggested to me to go to 265/75R16 (32) Duratracs and incorporate bump stops but I'm afraid that's too much tire.

Also, the guys at Discount Tire are trying to suggest to me BFG KM2's or BFG A/T. Any thoughts/input?

 

The KM2s run small so you could probably run a 265/75/R16 and it would be a little bigger than the 245

 

Just ordered 245/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs. I went with the C rating as opposed to the E rating per suggestions. Should be here tomorrow!

Thanks for the suggestions as well. I considered the KM2's but the price was quite a bit higher and I was kind of stuck on the Duratracs already.

 

I ran 245/75R16 10 ply KM's with a 2" BB for ~3 years. They were the perfect size for that amount of lift. If you go any bigger, you will probably have to run wheel spacers if you disconnect when offroad and don't want to hear any rubbing.

Post some pictures when you get them mounted!

 

Yeah I think I'll be happy with 245/75R16 on this lift. 265/75 just looked so big next to my lifted WJ. I'll definitely post some pictures and final measurements this weekend.

Also, I flipped the track bar into the proper orientation and put the shock boot on the steering stabilizer:

 

My tires are on! Here are a couple crappy cell phone pics. I'll get better pictures up soon.

And a couple shots seeing what they can do (sway bar still connected). The fiance was not very happy when she saw this...:shhh:

 

"mall crawlin's for city slickers! Round these parts we go porch crawlin."

 

Haha that's exactly right! When you don't have an RTI Ramp, use the front porch/brick flower bed!

Those tires look great, good choice in mods. Now lets see some pics of her wheeling!

Thanks! I hope to do some wheeling soon. I know I'm going to need to look into sliders here in the very near future... that and a few skids. Also, I'm going to need to relocate the lights. I imagine they will snap off quick. I may look into a roof basket and mount them on that. I need to be careful though as I only have about 10.5" of clearance left to get into the garage!

 

Those tires look great, good choice in mods. Now lets see some pics of her wheeling!

 

I agree, those little tires are cute

he won't show pics of wheeling, as he only wheels parking lots and apparently porches

:cheers2:

does look good though
this is how Jeep should have sold it originally

 

Wheel Spacers

I installed my wheel spacers this past weekend. I used the rough country 1.5" spacers.

(Before/After):

 

Originally, I did not have any rubbing with the OME HD lift and 245/75R16 Duratracs. Once I installed the wheel spacers, I had rubbing in the front at full lock in reverse. I trimmed the front bumper and wheel well lining to fix the issue. I used a razor blade on the bumper to remove about an inch of material. I used metal sheers on the wheel well lining. I think it turned out pretty good.

 

Looks good. For the fender lining trim, how far did you go up, about mid way? I'm looking at installing an inch larger tires than yours with a bigger lift, but it rubs with my 1.5" RC spacers.

 

Final Measurements

I also finally measured the height the lift and tires gave me. The only 'oops' was the "Original" was measured on 1/4 tank of gas and the "New" was measured with a full tank of gas.

Center Hub to Wheel Well

Front Driver
Factory: 18"?
Original: ~17 3/4
New: 20 3/4"

Front Passenger
Factory: 18"?
Original: ~18"
New: 20 3/4"

Rear Driver
Factory: 19"?
Original: ~18 1/2"
New: 20 3/4"

Rear Passenger
Factory: 19"?
Original: ~18 3/4"
New: 20 3/4"

Total Height Difference (Measurement from floor to wheel well including tire height in "New" measurement):

Front Driver
Original: 31 1/4"
New: 35"

Front Passenger
Original: 31 1/2"
New: 35"

Rear Driver
Original: 32 1/4"
New: 35"

Rear Passenger
Original: 32 1/4"
New: 35"

 

I realized I didn't have a decent picture up of the finished product so I snapped one this morning. It isn't the greatest quality but it does show pretty well the difference between sagging stock springs and the new setup.

Before:

After:

 

I did a little math because people always talk about losing gas mileage when they go up in tire size. While this is true because of 1. a higher vehicle means more wind resistance and 2. heavier tires take more 'umph' to roll, you also have to take into account your distance traveled is not accurate anymore unless you have re-calibrated the tach/speedometer. So here are some numbers:

225/75R16 is 29.29" tall.
245/75R16 Duratrac is 30.7" (as advertised on their website)

29.29 / 30.7 = 0.9540717 * 100 = 95.40717

100 - 95.40717 = 4.59283% Larger Tire than original.

If you travel 200 miles as indicated by your mileage counter, you have actually gone 209.19 miles.

200 X 0.0459283 = 9.18566 + 200 = 209.19

So for the important numbers for this condition (30.7" tire replacing a 29.29" tire, no other variables changed):

Every time the mileage counter travels 217.73 miles, add 10 miles to it.
For every 1000 miles as indicated by the mileage counter, you have actually traveled 1045.93 miles.

Considering this in the world of gas mileage importance:

Let's say a normal tank of gas last 275 miles as indicated and it takes 17.5 gallons to fill the tank back up:

275 / 17.5 = 15.714 MPG

With the larger size tire, we need to add 12.6 miles to it:

287 / 17.5 = 16.43 MPG

As you can see, a normal tank of gas has lost 3/4 of a gallon per mile only because the distance traveled is no longer correct.

Sorry if that was boring. I wanted to write it down somewhere for future reference and figured someone else may want to read that.

 

Jeep looks great with the lift and spacers!

Where are you at in Spfld? I'm northwest just off Jefferson and drive a black '04 laredo with 245/75 duratracs, but no lift...

 

Thanks!

Interesting on the location. I'm surprised I haven't seen you. PM sent.

245/75R16 with no lift... was that pretty tight?

 

245/75R16 with no lift... was that pretty tight?

They fit. They rub on the fender liner in reverse at full lock, but they don't grab the bumper itself. I'm sure they'd rub worse with the sway bar disconnected offroad, but fine for on road and light offroad.

 

Right on. I imagine you don't have much sag at all. That's good to hear. With the lift and no wheel spacers, mine did not rub. They grabbed the bumper as soon as I put on the wheel spacers though (reverse and full lock).