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Unread 01-18-2012, 02:07 PM   #31
ChrisHager
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Thanks!

Interesting on the location. I'm surprised I haven't seen you. PM sent.

245/75R16 with no lift... was that pretty tight?

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Unread 01-18-2012, 03:19 PM   #32
JakeWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHager View Post

245/75R16 with no lift... was that pretty tight?

They fit. They rub on the fender liner in reverse at full lock, but they don't grab the bumper itself. I'm sure they'd rub worse with the sway bar disconnected offroad, but fine for on road and light offroad.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 05:18 PM   #33
ChrisHager
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Right on. I imagine you don't have much sag at all. That's good to hear. With the lift and no wheel spacers, mine did not rub. They grabbed the bumper as soon as I put on the wheel spacers though (reverse and full lock).
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Unread 01-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #34
ChrisHager
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I recently changed all of my fluids. Everything turned out pretty good for over 90K on the clock and no record of any changes by the previous owner (apart from engine oil).



Dana 30 and the shavings on the magnet:




Dana 35C and the cover/magnet:




Transmission (42RE) without/with filter:




I changed the Transfer Case (242) fluid as well. Overall, changing all of the fluids really wasn't a bad project for those considering doing this on a Saturday afternoon. As long as you have some basic tools, doing it yourself can save you quite a bit of money.

Also, I'm going to note that the transmission fluid had never been changed. While it looked pretty good, I worry about throwing new fluid in, the new fluid breaking loose some gunk, and that gunk clogging the filter reducing the life of the transmission. Some people argue whether you should flush a transmission, change the fluid/filter, or just leave it be. I've decided to prevent any possible damage from a clogged filter by doing multiple changes over a short amount of time. For the first change, I bought a filter from O'Reilly Auto. In about 5k miles, I'm going to change the filter and fluid again, probably using another O'Reilly filter. The third time I change it, I'll pick up a dealer filter. By doing 3 changes spanned over 10-15k miles, I'll slowly replace the old fluid, catch the gunk in the new filter, and change the filter out before it clogs and prevents adequate fluid flow. I figure a few fluid changes now is cheaper than a new transmission later.
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Unread 01-31-2012, 05:16 PM   #35
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Kenwood KDC-348U CD Player Install

Here is a quick tid-bit on installing a CD Player the proper way. I chose Kenwood and ordered the wiring harness and antenna adapter from Crutchfield - excellent products, fair prices.

Here is a picture of the harness that came with the CD player (left) and the harness from Crutchfield (right):



The paper plate was used is an attempt to keep solder off the coffee table. I figured making the effort would help keep my fiance happy...

The CD player came with an instruction booklet that contained a wiring diagram. Crutchfield's wiring harness actually came with the wires labeled. It was extremely simple to match up the diagram with the labeled wires. Also, it turned out that the wiring colors matched up pretty closely as well.


To solder properly, heat up your soldering iron and add a bit of solder to the tip. Dab off any extra on a damp cloth or sponge. The idea is you want to keep the tip shiny.



First, slide some heat shrink tubing onto one of the wires then cross the two wires at about 45° and twist them in opposite direction over themselves:



It should turn out looking something like this, which is actually a decently strong bond as it is:



Next, solder away! Haha. It is actually just about that easy. What I did was I put the soldering iron tip on the bottom of the wires and started heating them a little. I dabbed my solder on the tip of the soldering iron until the solder started to seep into the wire. Once I saw that happening, I knew the wires were hot so I quickly dabbed the solder against the top of the wires while still applying heat. You want to act quick just so you don't melt the wire casing. Sure, you may accidentally curl the casing a little but try to avoid heating the wire so much that the casing actually melts. After a few wires, you should get the hang of it.





Here's a closeup of the last pic. Sorry it's so blurry:



And the finished solder:



Now you can slide your heat shrink over the solder and heat it up.



I used a lighter and got a little too close on this one, hence the charred look.



And here is the harness all soldered up:



I couldn't find my nice little zip ties so I used some 33. I hate doing that but I wanted my soldered harness to be secure:



Finally, here is the new harness and the antenna adapter connecting the factory setup to the new cd player:



And the finished product:

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Unread 03-09-2012, 12:41 PM   #36
Linus
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our jeeps are almost identical! your lift and tires look great, can't wait to get mine looking like that. Keep up the good work
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Unread 03-12-2012, 11:15 AM   #37
ChrisHager
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Thanks! I am definitely liking where it's at right now. I have more plans for it but that's going to have to wait a while. All my money is going towards the wedding now.
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Unread 03-22-2012, 02:18 PM   #38
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Great WJ!
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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Unread 03-22-2012, 04:18 PM   #39
ChrisHager
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Thank ya! I told my fiance that I've been bitten by the modification bug. I'm not sure how thrilled she is about that, most likely because I have her drive it from time to time and she's only 5'1" or so.

I think my next mods to come are CB/antenna. I'm toying with going a different route than most on the antenna install but I need to do a little more research. I'm thinking of going opposite the factory antenna using a hood channel mount.

Edit: Something like this:

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Unread 05-02-2012, 12:29 PM   #40
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It has been a while since I've updated what's happening with the jeep project. I've been trying to save money lately for my upcoming wedding but decided it was time to install a CB. It's looking like I might have time this weekend to get it all put in, assuming my antenna makes it in by Friday.

I ended up buying:
Firestik Hood Channel Mount w/ FireRing coax cable
Midland 1001LWX CB Radio
Wilson Flex Silver Load Fiberglass 4' Antenna

I'm going to be mounting the antenna on the hood (front driver's side). I picked the Wilson Flex because it is thinner than a Firestik and has a really good 'flex' to it. I'm thinking that if it takes too much of a beating on the garage door, I'll bend it backwards and lightly attach it to the roof rails while it's not in use.

As per the Midland radio, I went to a local CB shop with the intentions of buying a Uniden PRO510XL or the 520 model. I originally wanted the weather radio but after some discussion, decided that it wasn't necessary. Sure enough, I walk in to the CB shop and notice the Midland for $10 more than the Uniden and decided the weather radio might be worth it. So... that's what I ended up with. What's nice besides the extra features is that it is quite small - about the same width as the Uniden.

I'm most likely going to mount the CB between the driver's seat and the center console, right behind the seat belt. I'm fairly tall and drive with the seat all the way back. Because of this, I imagine the CB will be quite handy for me there. I also like that it's kind of tucked away in that location.

I have a couple ideas to spruce up the install. I'll be sure to report back with my results.

In other news, a good friend of mine bought a 97 Chevy K1500 from his uncle. His uncle installed some 265/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler SilentArmor tires on the truck not too long before selling it. The friend is now looking to lift the truck a bit and put some larger tires on it. He said if I want the current SilentArmor tires, they are mine for the taking.

Since that tire is quite a bit larger than I have now, I'm considering installing some spacers to lift the jeep a tiny bit more (for now, a tiny bit = ~3/4" - 1"). I'm also considering getting a second set of rims and swap between the two depending on the driving situation.

Either way, that's probably not going to happen for a little while. More just mulling over the options.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 12:36 PM   #41
TRLWGN1
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by mounting your cb next to the seat, is that going to prevent the fiance from being able to move the seat up so she can drive?
I know she won't take it off-road, but she still needs to be able to DD for you :P
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Unread 05-02-2012, 01:40 PM   #42
ChrisHager
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Haha I expected a more smart-*** response from you. Maybe something along the lines of "if I get scared while offroading, is she going to be able to use the CB with the seat moved forward" kind of thing. You are getting rusty!

She actually had the same concern about moving the seat up, even though she doesn't drive the WJ hardly at all. If I mount the CB to the console, there should be plenty of space for the seat to move without putting too much pressure on the CB. I'll look it over real well before committing. There are a couple other options for mounting locations I can pick from if my current idea won't work.

Side note, can I borrow your SWR meter/patch cable this weekend? I realize I could ask you in person quicker than typing but... Why not? Haha.
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Unread 05-02-2012, 02:10 PM   #43
TRLWGN1
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Originally Posted by ChrisHager View Post
Haha I expected a more smart-*** response from you. Maybe something along the lines of "if I get scared while offroading, is she going to be able to use the CB with the seat moved forward" kind of thing. You are getting rusty!

She actually had the same concern about moving the seat up, even though she doesn't drive the WJ hardly at all. If I mount the CB to the console, there should be plenty of space for the seat to move without putting too much pressure on the CB. I'll look it over real well before committing. There are a couple other options for mounting locations I can pick from if my current idea won't work.

Side note, can I borrow your SWR meter/patch cable this weekend? I realize I could ask you in person quicker than typing but... Why not? Haha.
well, I didn't want to rake you through the coals on a public forum. Figured I can just do that in person, with maybe just a couple witnesses

yeah, you can borrow it, if I can remember to bring it in.
shoot me a text at 7 am to remind me
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Unread 05-02-2012, 04:47 PM   #44
ChrisHager
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Hahaha nice.

And I will send ya a text. Thanks!
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Unread 05-11-2012, 01:56 PM   #45
ChrisHager
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I finally got around to finishing the battery terminals. I started this process a long time ago. I replaced the negative side and realized I grabbed the wrong size battery cable lugs for the positive side. By the time I grabbed the correct size for the positive side, other projects had developed.

I snapped pictures as I always do and since there have been a lot of questions recently about how to do this, I figured I'd show you how I go about it:

First of all, I bought these from O'Reilly Auto Parts:


4 - 6 gauge with 3/8" Stud Hole - $3.29 per box of 2



Marine Battery Terminals - 5/16" Negative Stud and 3/8" Positive Stud - $5.49 for the set




For the negative side, I used solder lugs which can be a pain to find and wasn't much easier than the method I used for the positive side. The following method I used for installing the positive side works pretty well...


Alright, clearly, you need to chop off the old terminal. I cut it close to allow myself extra wire to work with:



Next, trim back the covering on the wires. I trimmed them back probably about 3/8" to 1/2":



Once trimmed, I applied flux to the bare copper:



I cleaned the inside of the lugs with a copper tube fitting brush (circular wire brush) and then fluxed the inside of the lugs:



Now would be a good time to slip some heat shrink over the wires...

Here's where it gets tricky without a spare set of hands (especially when trying to take a picture as well. You'll want to work quickly but if you end up moving too slow, you can fix any issues that arise.
Hold the copper lug with a pair of pliers. Heat the bottom of the 'bowl' with a torch and hold solder inside of the lug. I held it until the solder melted and almost filled the lug:



Now that the lug is full, you'll need to heat the wire. Do this gently. You don't want to be torching everything under the hood. You also don't want to melt the casing on the wire. The best method I've found (because you need to keep the lug hot as well) is to heat the wire while also holding the lug (with the pliers) at the edge of the flame. Once the wire is heated (and the solder in the lug is in liquid form), bend the wire down and cram it into the lug (wire down, 'bowl' of the lug up as to not spill out the solder). Hold it here for 30 seconds or so:





As you can see, I don't have heat shrink on my wires. I didn't have the correct size on hand. Fortunately, the lugs aren't too large so I can slip some over the top and heat shrink it down as soon as I pick some more up.

Slip the cover back over the wires and install:



And the finished product:



Installing lugs in this fashion ensures a solid connection. The heat shrink (yeah, yeah, still have to finish the positive side) helps seal the connection from the elements.

I've done my fair share of soldering and have dabbled a bit in copper plumbing work. For me, this took me between 15 - 30 minutes for one side including taking pictures. I could easily do all 4 lugs in under an hour (assuming all parts were pre-purchased). For someone new to soldering, it's quite simple. If the solder hardens up on you once it's in the lug, simply re-heat it. All in all, a 'newbie' should be able to do this in a couple hours.

Hope this helps!
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