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They are not easy to find. Most used parts shop I contacted want to sell me an entire column ($150 to $400). I obviously will not buy an entire column just to get a lousy pin out of it...lol
Where did you get yours? Since you have that many, would you consider giving or selling one?
Thanks,
Pull a part from an XJ. Or an S10. That's where some of the parts came from. Others from crap I've had on the shelf for years lol.

If I have what you need, I'll send it to you.

Image
 
Possible. Would you happen to have a picture of how it should fit? That would really help me a lot. My jeep did not have one for years so I really dont know so you could be correct.
Thank you.
Found this one on the web. It is not my Jeep.

To install it you slide the spring in first. Then install the pin. The head side of the pin GOES IN FIRST. Then slide the plastic retainer on to secure. My spring was more powerful than the plastic retainer so I had to hold the pin on until I got the horn plate in position.
 

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Wow. You were right, I have it installed backward. Man, I feel so stupid right now…lol

I’m so sorry for taking so much as you guys time for such a simple mistake. My sincere apologies.

Here is what I was doing, I had the spring inside the groove, then I put the pin inside the spring with the flat head of the pin sticking up. From what your picture shows, the spring should go in first then the pin with the flat head facing down and pushing on the spring then hold it in place with the plastic retainer.

My only other question if I might is if the spring is under the flat head and pushing it up, wouldn’t that make the pin contact the flex plate at all times and cause the horn to constantly go off? The spring is pretty long.
 
No biggie. We all gotta learn. The pin makes contact with the flex plate. When you press the horn button the flex plate "flexes" and gounds through the column. I'm guessing though....lol. I'll see if I can find a schematic for it.

Edit: Confirmed.
 

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Just a heads up with the replacement contact switch. Yesterday I went out to do an errand and about halfway there I went to put on my right blinker and the horn sounded. The blinker stalk didn't lock into position and the horn stopped when it returned to its neutral position. I thought that's odd and tried it again with the same results. So I was going to just use hand signals until I got it home and could check it out. So I turn onto a state road right behind a deputy. It's a 6 laner so moves along rapidly. When I completed the turn and my steering wheel returned to straight the horn sounded again and I couldn't get it off. Not a good time to be behind a deputy. So I see him looking in his rearview while I'm banging on the button as animated as I can so he will see that I'm not trying to flag him down. I find that if I pull up on the left side of the steering wheel it stops. So that allows me to get to the next intersection where I can find a place to pull over. Of course in the corners it just going to sound. I get to a good spot and pull the relay.

So today I pulled it apart and found the spring had come out the bottom of the cancelling cam and was wedged between the wiper switch and cam. The brass tab was bent out and the spring was destroyed. So there was two problems I found which I fixed and hopefully all is good. When I pushed the contact pin down deep into the cam it would get wedged there. This made the spring sit fully compressed all the time. So I had to file the head of the pin a little more so it would not hang up in the tapered part of the cam. I also decided to read the horn contact instructions and it appears the pin has to be shortened different lengths for different applications. Since this is not advertised as a direct replacement for Jeep I cut it to .75" which the instructions state for 1969 on. So I think between the pin being long and the head getting stuck the pressure caused the brass tab to bend up on the cam over time. Now my pin is in constant contact with the flex plate.
 

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Funny story, maybe the cop thought you were pulling him over…you should had giving him a ticket for him to know how it feels…lol

Thank you for the info and the picture. I’m now very clear on how the pin goes in. I also bought the exact same pin and will follow your lead and cut it down to 0.75”

I still have not started working on it again, but between this thread and my other one, I have a good understanding of how it works. Thinking about it, my main issue will be to figure out where exactly is the case ground made for the horn switch. If you look on the very bottom of the diagram you provided on post #24, there is a ground coming in for the horn switch. That is my only problem now. If I figure how, then my horn will work.
 
I would test for continuity as you go. Check the dash mount bolt to the outside column casing. Make sure that metal plate is on the back of the housing because it's not attached. When I pulled my housing off the plate fell to the ground and I had to figure out where it went since I hadn't seen it yet. Check continuity to the shaft at that time as well. Then as you add each piece back in, check for continuity between the latest piece and the dash bolt again. That's what I would do anyway as I have a feeling you're loosing it somewhere along the way.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Hello gentlemen,
I finally put everything back together but unfortunately, I still have no ground so the horn still doesn't work. At this point I'm hoping to find a local jeep owner who does his own work and have more experience. Thank you for all the help, I wish I was a better student :)
 

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Yes sir, the metal plate is there, in between the upper and lower shroud. I also have a spare plate since I replaced the upper shroud and the new one came with a plate.

I bought a new contact pin and spring. I filed the head of the pin making sure it could slide freely all the way to the bottom. I also cut the pin to about 0.75”. The cam you see in the picture is brand new as well.

The issue is the center shaft you see in the picture is not grounded. I think that is how the ground goes to the steering wheel for the flex plate to close the loop when the horn button is pushed.

After looking at it very carefully, here is what I think.
1. The upper steering shaft (sticking up at the center of the last picture) connect to the lower steering shaft which then connects to the steering box which is bolted to the frame
2. And/or the upper or lower bearing around the steering shaft connects to a ground somehow.
 
Your guess is as good as mine. I tried to see exactly what makes contact with the flex plate when pressed and I couldn't figure it out. I tried depressing it without the horn button on and it doesn't appear to hit the steering shaft but I couldn't tell for sure. 'Tis a puzzlement.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Your guess is as good as mine. I tried to see exactly what makes contact with the flex plate when pressed and I couldn't figure it out. I tried depressing it without the horn button on and it doesn't appear to hit the steering shaft but I couldn't tell for sure. 'Tis a puzzlement.
I think when you press the horn button/flex plate, it touches the thick round metal part around the center of the steering wheel. the center of the steering wheel is grounded by its connection to being bolted to the steering shaft. the steering shaft is ground by.....this is where the issue is I think.

Thanks anyway, I will just look for someone locally to fix it for me.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
I just went out and pulled the horn button off again. If I run a jumper wire from point A to point B the horn sounds. When jumping from point B to point C it does not. When jumping from A to C it sounds again. You can see the plastic insulator that keeps the attachment screws separate from the flex plate which is attached to the back of the ring. And since the flex plate always has contact with the horn contact pin, the steering shaft must be connected through the attachment screws. You could try jumping A to B. If that works then maybe you have the flex plate on backwards? IIRC I have the raised center toward the driver.

Edit: I checked for continuity between B and C and also between C and a ground screw on the tub and they were connected in both tests.
 

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Discussion starter · #40 ·
OK, I will do the same testing as you did.
The flex plate in on the right way, since I have been dealing with this for so long, I have read so much about it so I know the flex plate is not flat and the raised side faces upwards towards the driver. I read somewhere if it was backwards, the horn will sound all the time.
 
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