Nothing bolt in. So what will "fit" is really whatever you want to make fit. There's a LOT of hd combos out there. Hpd60 and sterling is a good combo as well.

Basically find a 3/4 ton and up truck and look at the axles. Pirate is a good resource for 1 ton axle tech.

 

Are you trying to MOAB type stuff off just mild every now and then wheeling? I think if you can get a set the JK Rubi swap is a good one...right bolt pattern, right width tubes, ABS, TPMS, etc....

Will

 

The jk axles are also 3-4x the price of any other axle combo before you even get to brackets on the jk stuff. They are a poor choice just for cost alone. A d60 14b combo can be had for under 1k, jk axles are 3500 each from mopar.

 

How about you tell us the application. If you're just going to run out and get groceries, I think a d60 is a little overkill. Realize that if you decide to go with axles other than WJ axles, you will be required to make major modification to your vehicle. Got a good welder and some skill?

 

4.0/42re/nv242/d30/d44a (both with 3.55s i think). for the time being, its my DD, but i realize that the parts collecting and buildup process could take a while, so im planning ahead, and i should have a 2nd vehicle within a few months that will then be my DD. i have access to a welder, but not enough skill or practice to be comfortable with. so id need some pointers and someone to get me started and most likely help out alot.

im thinking 35s or possibly 37s at first, which is why i was leaning towards the d44/9" set up, but ive heard that if im gonna go through the process of swapping out axles, do it right the first time, and go big or go home. im on the UT/AZ border and theres slickrock/sand everywhere, and ive already snapped a bunch of goodies in the d30 just on 31s. oh and rubi jk axles are out of the question. i know this wont be cheap one way or another, but id like to keep the cost down as much as possible. i also realize that ill most likely be completely redoing the entire suspension.

im interested in the hpd60/sterling route, as well as this supposed '1k d60/14b' combo. all the drivers side drop d60s that ive found have been in the $800-1200 alone. ive found plenty of passenger drop d60s, but i cant use those unless im swapping out a t-case (which might not be a bad idea since the stock nv242 prob wont last long with even 35s; maybe a 203/205?) ok im getting ahead of myself.

so yea, where can i find this 1k drive drop d60/14b combo? and where can i find a good hpd60/sterling combo?

 

What do you have under there now? if you have a d35 just swap in a d44hd its a direct swap. Add a MVC truss/skid and a kryptonite diff cover and you should be good to run 35's. You could also add alloy shafts like I am for even more strength and run 36-37's. anything else you chose to swap in will require lots of fab work.

Here's a pic of mine:

As far as the front I kept the d30 all I did was add yukon gears and an OX locker. also I'm in the process of adding a truss and Ultimate RCV shafts. for added strength.

A couple shots of the OX:

 

For the record once you truss and skid the 44a (aka 44hd), you eliminate the week points and will have an axle stronger than the iron d44. more comparable to a d60.

 

my 8.8 swap only cost me around 1200 and thats with the axle and brand new parts...however for 35s or larger a front and rear swap is you're best bet...

 

I have an 04 WJ and I am thinking about swapping out my rear axle too. I am gonna do a re-gear on the d30 up front and try to find me a good swap in axle for the rear. Remember the bigger d44, d60, 14 volt, ect. the heavier it is to your suspension, transmission, ect.. you may need to up to a heavier spring if you go big.

 

the coils are ontop of the axle im not following how he'd need a stiffer spring depending on the axle coice?

depending on the axle tube size and what coil spring perches he went with, he may gain some lift height...

 

ok the bigger the axle the heavier it is. if he has older springs the extra wieght may be a lot on them. spring position has nothing to do with anything here. check out the June 2010 issue of JP (i think june) they have a ghood write up about a tj axle swap. not much difference in terms of considerations.

 

found a set of 2000 super duty axles. d60 front, sterling rear (hopefully the 10.25) complete from wheel to wheel. thoughts?? everything ive read says these axles are good stock up to 40s....

 

sounds like a winner! heck i'd do it. just remember the weight factor. I guess you know gas mileage will decrease more with the heavier axles. but not bad if the price is right.

 

are you going to go full width or are you looking for something that is around the same 59" width as the stock axles?

 

ok so the super duty axles were sold. wah-wahhhhh. however, i came across a pair of axles out of a 1978 f250. both are 8-lug; front is a high pinion dana 44 and a rear dana 60 with 4.10s as far as i can tell.

yes i'm aware that any axle swap needs alot of work, but are these a good start/workable? i know that the hp44 and the d60 are solid axles for what im aiming for (35s-37s) but are they going to work under my WJ?? i know the diff is on the correct side, but i read that some of the d44s from that era ford are less desirable than others. i am planning on keeping a coil setup, although i could be persuaded to modify to a leaf spring suspension. would have to plate the frame rails, but that should probably happen anyway.

so is it a go, or just another bad idea??

 

The 250 d44's are the really desirable ones. Thick tubes and welded perches. Buy it.

 

I meant to say 63.5" for the wj not 59"....I wonder what the width is on those axles you have found. I wouldn't worry about the bolt pattern too much cause you migt be able to drill the correct bolt pattern in the new axles to a 5 on 5. I would think you would still want to brace the mounting locations a bit and do some simple rebuilding of the new axles themselves....like ball joints, brakes, u-joints, etc.

 

I am in the process of using a Waggy D44 that is centered (some were offset in the rear) as a building block. Chopping off the waggy ends and welding D44A ends on to it to keep factory brakes and abs sensors. Running D44 axles with tone rings. All the factory brakes and everything will be factory so it will all work. Putting an ARB in it with 4.10s. Will do a truss across the top to get a factory mount for the upper a arm. Will remove the factory brackets off the D44A and weld them onto the Waggy and everything including the upgraded sway bar will bolt back up.

Almost went with a D60 for novelty but I did not want to sacrifice the ground clearance. The iron D44 will handle anything I will ever throw at including up to 35s although I will probably never go past 33s.

Once the rear is done then I might see what I can do to the front.

 

Seems like a lot of work for a "downgrade".

 

why is it a downgrade? That aluminum center section is junk. It expands and bearing and gears start to whine, there is no aftermarket support and never will be.

With a true Iron D44 I get all of the D44 support including gears, lockers, etc.

 

id rather have the stronger D44a as well. ESPECIALLY if i wasnt going bigger than 35's.

 

The center "flex" is easily fixed by 300$ of truss and cover.

I do understand the desire for more lockers, but would have stepped up to a shaved 60.

 

The center "flex" is easily fixed by 300$ of truss and cover.

I do understand the desire for more lockers, but would have stepped up to a shaved 60.

X2....Also Spartan has a locker for the 44hd (aka 44a) now: SL D44HD-30 - , - Dana 44HD 30Spline SPARTAN LOCKER , w X/P , Dana 44HD ONLY .

 

i still think an 8.8 is a great choice...the width is easily fixed with spacers/wheels and you can save money on gears if you find one with 4.10s and its got more than enough aftermarket support...

but honestly, for the WJ and 99% of its owners, the 44a is probably the best bet...no fabbing involved, can get your hands on an aussie here or there and you can work around its weak points...

 

Everyone keeps saying the 44a is stronger than a 44. It's not. It uses the same diameter and spline count axle shafts as a normal 44, and the shafts are going to be the first thing to go in 99% of the breakage out there.

 

Dana 44A
Ring Gear Diameter = 8.5"
Pinion Shaft Diameter = 1.625"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 10
Pinion Spline = 29
Cover Bolt Count = 10
Axle Shafts = 30 Spline
Axle Shaft Diameter = 1.25"

Dana 44 Iron
Ring Gear Diameter = 8.5"
Pinion Shaft Diameter = 1.376"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 10
Pinion Spline = 26
Cover Bolt Count = 10
Axle Shafts = 30 Spline
Axle Shaft Diameter = 1.19"

 

Yes I know the pinion is marginally stronger, but where'd you get the info for the axleshaft diameters? I'm curious, never seen that before.

*EDIT* I'm searching for rear D44 shaft diameter info right now, but FYI all front dana 44's have 1.30" diameter axleshafts, with the same 30 splines. Unless there is an extra neckdown somewhere I'd expect the same out of a rear 44. I'll find out soon enough.

 

Here's some tech for you. I just took pictures of my TWO D44a shafts with twisted splines sitting side by side.

Slightly less than 1.25, might be 1.19 for all I know?

This shaft had about 5 hours on it total, I was still able to twist it.

 

Come on ap...use a real caliper. My recently calibrated dial caliper calls it 1.25" on the money.

 

Fair enough lol. I wonder if an iron D44 is 1.19 or 1.25