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Old Man Emu (ARB) Long Travel shock lengths

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12K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  dongalonga  
#1 ·
While researching these shocks I was running into a lot of conflicting measurements. No websites that I could find actually listed the measurements (just said for 3.5" to 5" lift).

I wanted to make this post so it hopefully helps someone later on, that may be looking for this information. This is straight from ARB:

Front shocks (60047L which I believe are replacing the 66L) are 678mm (26.69") extended, 392mm (15.43") collapsed.

Rear shocks (60049L which I believe are replacing the 67L) are 622mm (24.49") extended, 366mm (14.41") collapsed


Most of the information I found was correct for the front shocks, but they also listed the rears as the same length, which isn't the case.
 
#2 ·
yup, good info. mudb8's also pointed out the inaccuracy of many publishing the lengths of the front and rear as the same.

note:
N66L front's require 2" of bumpstop extension
N67L rear's require about 2.5" of bumpstop extension (can change with pinion angle)

For reference:
In front 13.5" compressed length shocks fit with no bumpstop extension
In Rear 12.25" compressed length shocks fit with no bumpstop extension

Regardless of lift height - Subtract the compressed length of the new shocks you're trying to fit and you've got a good starting point for the required bumpstop extension.

Example: 15.5" compressed length shock like the OME N66 = 15.5-13.5 = 2" front bumpstop requirement.
 
#3 ·
I knew you would comment in this thread :laugh:

I was actually going to PM you about the bump stops since you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable about them. What would you recommend using for the bump stops? I think I read somewhere that you used small and large pucks from the Performance brand body lift.
 
#4 ·
you can use a lot of stuff for bumpstop extensions.

I like the Performance Accessories body lift pucks since they're real cheap directly off their website. "Big Block" versions fit on the front lower end...bolt em to the spring pad by drilling and tapping the perch for 1/2-13 UNC. In the rear, use the "Mini-Block" versions and buy a longer bolt from the hardware store. I want to say the bolt is an M10 or M8...I think M10, but you'll figure it out.

You can use any aluminum or steel stock or high density plastic....like Delrin, HDPE or UHMWPE ...whatever your supplier has in stock. Cut it to fit - 3" diameter works well on the front lower end and 2" diameter works well in the rear upper end. If you've got access to a lathe, it'll make short work of this, but you can also do it in your garage with an portable band saw, sawzall (kinda crude, but it'll work) and an sander or angle grinder to smooth over the surface face.

You can also use hockey pucks, but only in the front, and you can't bolt them down. You can only epoxy them down. They have creep properties (like all plastics & rubbers), and as a result you won't be able to torque them properly (mrblaine has a nice picture of a hockey puck vs Grade 8 bolt around here somewhere...).