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Headlight Restoration w/ Pics.

4.7K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  P3_Super_Bee  
#1 ·
Hey there jeep friends.

Today, as I was leaving to head to the store, i got a long look at my headlights and decided i was sick of the hazy/yellow/cloudy crap that covered my headlights! I know this is a common problem, so i decided to document the process for anybody else who wants to do this.

Materials:
Turtle Wax Headlight Resto kit ($8.99 @ Walmart)
CLEAN cloths.
Painters/masking Tape (Couple of bucks/Free if you just had to redo a baby room :laugh: )
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Step One:

Tape off the area surrounding the headlight. I know this may seem like a pain, or a waste of time.... Just do it. You are going to be using chemicals and abrasive surfaces. The last thing you want to do is ruin your paint or scratch up something on accident.
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Step Two:

Wash the headlight with water and a clean cloth of some kind. Dirt can scratch the headlight. This also helps you get a clean look at what you are dealing with.

Step Three:

This kit says to use the Clarifying compound first before sanding. My guess is that this is for very very minor hazing... This didn't even put a dent in my lights.

Step Four: (Sanding Stage #1)

Take out the green pad labeled #1, and the Spray lube. Coat the lens AND the pad. Firmly (not TOO hard) sand in either a vertical or horizontal motion. ** Remember which direction you choose** This is the longest step. You should take your time here and do a good job. Stop every few mins to re-apply the spray lube. Like all things worth while in life, Lube is important.

Step Five: (Sanding Stage #2)

As soon as you are satisfied with your initial sand, re-apply the spray lube, and take out the Brown sanding pad labeled #2. Make sure you spray the pad, and then re-sand the headlight in the OPPOSITE direction of step one. (If you went vertical before, go horizontal now.) Again, make sure you stop every so often and re-lube.

Step Six: (Final Sanding stage)

After you finish with the #2, get out the last pad. This sanding pad is labeled #3 on the Purple side, and #4 on the blue side. Repeat the above process, switching directions in between sides, and stopping to re-apply the lube.

Step 7:

After you are done sanding, clean the headlight with a clean rag/towel. Once you remove all of the wet-sanding residue use a different cloth to apply a liberal amount of the Lens Clarifying Compound. Rub in the compound until you cant see it anymore.

Step 8:

After you have rubbed in the compound, allow time for it to dry and haze up. Once this is done, buff it off with a clean cloth or a buffing drill attachment.
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Step 9: (Last step)

Once you are done buffing, use the supplied plastic glove and apply the lens sealing wipe to the headlight. This takes up to 24 hours to cure, but once it does it protects the lens from further yellowing and hazing.

This kit worked great... I am very very pleased with the results! This was really easy, everybody can do it.

Hope this helps.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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#3 ·
I've never done headlamps, but I did buff out a 135g Acylic tank before.
I used the Novus brand plastic polish
Amazon.com: Novus 1, 2, 3 Kit Plastic Polish and Scratch Remover: Automotive

You can buy it separately ( I didn't need to use the #1)
Also.. in the acrylic tank world, some have said a non treated Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works well. ( It doesn't have chemicals in it, just super tiny abrasives)
 
#4 ·
Looks GREAT!!!

The only thing that I have to say is that it would be beneficial to remove the lights to use the cutting agent on the edges of the lights- they still look yellow.

That adds quite a bit more work to the project though, and your results are certainly night and day from what it was before!

GREAT THREAD!



edit: Fancy kits are fancy and a bottle of 3M rubbing compound (or equivelant cutting compound) and some elbow grease will produce the same results without the high price of a "specialized kit"
 
#5 ·
funny thing is that kit is what, 9 bucks, before i replaced the lenses i used a fine sandpaper and toothpaste to do the same thing. get the cheapest grittiest toothpaste ever and a buffing wheel on a power drill to save time. sand and then buff with no toothpaste, wet the lens and apply toothpaste. buff with toothpaste. wash with windex
 
#8 ·
I did mine with 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and water, which got most of it off. (did it twice rinced with water inbetween.
Then I used some Meguiar's PlastiX cleaner and polish. (did that twice too and rubbed clean with a dry cloth)
Worked great.... Did it all by hand and took about 15 minutes.

I do have the Turtle Wax compound metioned above, could have saved the money I spent on the Meguiar's i guess...... lol

Do they make replacements in glass? Sure would be nicer......
 
#16 ·
nice write up! i just got this today also so i can try fixing my crappy zj headlights aswell although i wish i had a high rpm drill....anyone know where i could pick up a cheap cordless drill to do the job? crappy deal on my end because i live in a appartment complex and its way to far to hook up a extension cord... i been told the drill should be 1200-1600rpm
 
#17 ·
Headlights look great. i used this from NAPA
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worked great and was only $10.00.
Does anyone know why the headlights turn yellow, but the turn signals stay clear. wouldn't u think if they could make the turn signals out of a non-yellowing plastic they could do the same with the headlights?
 
#20 ·
exactly. they spray ona coating for UV protection that yellows in time. the "restoration kit" merely removes that coating and exposes bare plastic. also the turn signals are made of a different plastic compund, this is why they crack in their old age instead of yellowing