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D30 Outer Pinion Bearing removal without removing carrier?

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#21 ·
liveanadventure said:
x2 ... i say go for it the risk is minimal ...D30 are not exactly examples of high percision
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How is setting a d30 up between 6-10 thousanths of an inch not precise?
 
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#22 ·
SFRautomotive said:
How is setting a d30 up between 6-10 thousanths of an inch not precise?
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That was the point I was attempting to make, but oh well.
The rear ends in my big rig need to be set up 100% correctly, just the same as a Dana 30 etc. No difference, a differential is a differential, no matter the size or manufacturer.;)
The OP asked, and we answered. Now the choice is his whether he wants to still half azz it, or do it correctly.

Martin
 
#24 ·
Eric90xj said:
I appreciate all the answers, will probably end up going to a shop. Anyone got an idea of how much that should cost?
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Axle/gear work varies so much between shops, it is hard to tell. I know I can get stuff done up here at @$150 plus parts, but that is pretty cheap for a professional regear.
It will also be a lot cheaper if you can remove the axle from the rig and drop it off as opposed to a drive in drive out type of deal.
I suggest calling around and getting some quotes.

Martin
 
#25 ·
Did you get this taken care of yet? I was going to do the same thing. My pinion bearing is shot. I was just going to install a new pinion bearing and seal. I really only need it to last for one or two trips out to do some light wheeling. After that I should be deployed and when I get back I'll be upgrading the axles.

I do have a master install kit and COULD redo all seals and bearings, but I think that is above my skill level and I don't have $$ to pay a shop to do it since I'm out of work at the moment. I know it is DEFINITELY the wrong way to do it, but if the "band-aid" fix would work temporarily that's fine by me.
 
#27 ·
SFRautomotive said:
How is setting a d30 up between 6-10 thousanths of an inch not precise?[/QUOT

wow .. ok first i cant spell so now that that is off the table ... my point is more that the d30 is not the most well made axel ... mabe ill start a thread intitled " Ive been running a d30 with bent tubes ,water in the diff and is held together wit gum for the last 100 years with no problem ... anyone eles?"" .... just to see how many responses i get ..... you people act as is if no one ever sucessfully made a repair to a axel by nontraditional methods........relax i dont think what he is proposing is so far fetched ....... my jeep is a living example of alot of the things everyone swore wouldnt work ,,,, and it runs better then most of the jeeps i see out there ...... so everyone have fun and make sure you color inside the lines
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#29 ·
robsjeepxj said:
No I beg to differ, the bearing itself play just as much of a part in overall depth as the shims themselves. That's why they have shim kits in the first place, if every part was made exactly the same in every way every time then we wouldn't need shim kits, you could just torque it to spec and it would be perfect every time. That's not the case in the real world here though of course.
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You can not change the pinion depth with preload shims unless you get too many in there in which case there would be end play that you could notice by pushing and pulling on the pinion. There should not be any end play on an axle pinion gear.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
koolaid5 said:
Did you get this taken care of yet? I was going to do the same thing. My pinion bearing is shot. I was just going to install a new pinion bearing and seal. I really only need it to last for one or two trips out to do some light wheeling. After that I should be deployed and when I get back I'll be upgrading the axles.

I do have a master install kit and COULD redo all seals and bearings, but I think that is above my skill level and I don't have $$ to pay a shop to do it since I'm out of work at the moment. I know it is DEFINITELY the wrong way to do it, but if the "band-aid" fix would work temporarily that's fine by me.
Click to expand...
Man I did end up taking it to a shop and they wanted to rebuild the whole axle with new gears and everything. I get it, they want to cover their A** but I said hell, if I would need new gears to get it done right anyways, I'll take my chances and just put those shims in there myself. Did it, torqued the pinion nut down to where the pinion had no play, turned smoothly with a slight resistance, and sealed the deal with some loctite red. May be kind of a ghetto fix, but it works for now. If my gear scallop or blow up in 6 months well I guess I'm not much worse off now, and I'll probably wanna swap out my D30 by then anyways. Aside from that, I have the disconnect D30, so those front gears never run on the highway. So it should last a while even if it is slightly off.
 
#31 ·
sounds good to me.... I'm working on pulling the seal and outer bearing right now and having a hell of a time. I just want to replace the outer bearing and seal and call it a day. Friends told me "ah, that's a 15 min fix... no big deal", so I'm trying to tackle it, but I've been f'n with that damn seal for over 15 min now... hahahahaha This sucks.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
koolaid5 said:
sounds good to me.... I'm working on pulling the seal and outer bearing right now and having a hell of a time. I just want to replace the outer bearing and seal and call it a day. Friends told me "ah, that's a 15 min fix... no big deal", so I'm trying to tackle it, but I've been f'n with that damn seal for over 15 min now... hahahahaha This sucks.
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yeah, thats what they all say, including myself. then it usually takes me a few hours. also that bearing is going to be pretty good and stuck on there trust me on that one. Also, remember that you MUST replace the pinion nut as it is a one time use nut or use loctite RED. I opted for the loctite. Make sure its the red kind as the break away torque on the red is about 240 ft-lbs, which is somewhere in the range of the pinion nut torque spec. If you just re use the nut as it is it will loosen up and your pinion will eventually fall forward into your diff and then you are really screwed..
 
#33 ·
I have a whole rebuild kit, so I have a new bearing, seal, AND nut..... so, I'm straight there. I'm going out to put it all back together now. Hopefully I won't have anymore play after I get it all tightened up.

It says to measure the torque it takes to get the pinion nut off and then torgue the new one on +5 from that. Problem is that I had to use an impact to get the nut off. So, now how do I get the new one torqued properly?
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
koolaid5 said:
I have a whole rebuild kit, so I have a new bearing, seal, AND nut..... so, I'm straight there. I'm going out to put it all back together now. Hopefully I won't have anymore play after I get it all tightened up.

It says to measure the torque it takes to get the pinion nut off and then torgue the new one on +5 from that. Problem is that I had to use an impact to get the nut off. So, now how do I get the new one torqued properly?
Click to expand...
Do you have a torque wrench? If so just torque it down to spec 180 ft-lbs.
 
#36 ·
If he's got a caliper that's good to the thousandth, and measures the difference between the old bearing & new one, and adds/removes that much shim, it 'should' be right. Should be. But that's the OP's call to make.

Edit.
Man. I was way late to the party, should have read the whole thread first.
 
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