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The swap is offically underway...

187K views 486 replies 42 participants last post by  cjevy350  
#1 ·
well, got a 90 s10 blazer, motor from a 93, 700r4, and 231c hd t/case....all in the donor, unfortunately!!:brickwall
i thaught the best way would be to get a complete, running vehicle, so i can see and drive the running motor,trans etc, and have all the wiring and accesories i need.... WRONG!!!!!
where do i start.......there is no way to pull the motor/tranny together, not enough room to raise the motor and clear the mounts and front cross member. not a big deal i hear you say......well...... the body has to be raised off the frame to get to 2 of the tranny/bellhousing bolts!!! basically undo the bolts, remove f/bumper and get jacking......the still have to use a u joint on the socket to get them out!!!
it took 2 of us to get the motor mounts undone, everything is sooooo tight in there, its unreal! cant get to the rear manifold bolts, so had to saw saw the exhaust, good ole rust....
removing the starter motor requires removing the front crossmember (which contains the ifs driveshafts etc)! screw that!
the tailshaft on the t/case hits the rear crossmember, so cant lower the tranny down enough to get the bolts/tranny out that way...and removing the tail end will still leave me the shaft inside it!:brickwall
so, i am currently a hater of chevy's......but i do like the motor/trannys, just wish they were an option in jeeps!:laugh:
all wires and hoses that i can get to are off and labeled, i already know the fuel lines are gonna be fun, not! everything else looks pretty straight forward, and i do love the remote oil filter!(although that tells you right there how tight it is..)
well, i have alcohol to drink, and will have the motor out tommorow even if i have to use my winch to pull the front end of it off!
will update when i get a chance.,.....later all!
 
#3 ·
"note to self......kick ones self in *** for not going 4.0..."
but i did try!!!:mad:

nothin around before i found the blazer.....(repeat to self 50 times a day...)

think i'll just run my big truck over it tommorow, therapy right? :rofl:
gotta love them saw saw's right?
i'll post some pics tommorow......
 
#4 ·
leftlanetruckin said:
"note to self......kick ones self in *** for not going 4.0..."
but i did try!!!:mad: nothin around before i found the blazer..
Any swap is not easy, the 4.0 is no different. It's just a lot of work and takes a lot of time. I did a 4.3 swap too, so I know what you are going through. Mine took a month+ of 3-8 hour days when I was not working. My best advice is, "Don't Cut Corners, Do It Right."
 
#412 ·
your jeep sounds awesome i have a 87 wrangler with a peupyo 5 speed thinkin bout

puttin a auto in kinda tight on money get a custum b@m slap shifter they look nice probably go with stoct t999 or watever that 3 speed is guess i would have to change the gears in my axles to and adapter for the t/c it has a 21spline im sure the auto is 23..........ok autos gettin expensive but soundas nice lol
 
#5 ·
thanks don, it will get there, and the only corners i am vutting are hte sheetmetal kind, but its only a chevy so that doesnt count....:rofl:
 
#6 ·
well, got the rest of the lines and wires marked, and after carefull deliberation, and a fone call to tomb raider, the bfh,a new set of saw saw blades, 4' pry bar and brute force came out to play........here is the result, after about 5 degreasings and a 3000psi pressure washer......



got a new set of headers arriving tommorow at advance auto parts, i am a commercial customer there (thanks to a jeep yj) and my price with a lifetime warranty is $138....i thaught it was a good deal, so paid for them. broke a stud off the intake manifold that goes to the heater matrix, crap casting (and me not being able to see ontop and beneath at the same time..) so will be needing a new intake manifold too. looking at the edelbrock manifold....will check on prices.

will be taking out wiring tommorow, and replacing tranny and oil filters, plugs, gaskets etc.
 
#8 ·
thanks spd, but that isnt my thread.....guess we both had brain farts at the same time huh? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

glad to see that i am not alone in this state of confusion..:wave:

i will no doubt be buggin the hell out of you for advice... thanks in advance, the beers will be on me!
 
#10 · (Edited)
I have done the 4.3 chevy swap in my 88 jeep YJ and i love it... I used the painless wiring harness and a remote fuel pump mounted on the frame rail.. easyiest way to do the conversion.. I have tired to use the factory harness but i found that wires were brittle and needed to much to weed thru.. for the money it is worth alot less headaches if you use the painless wiring harness. if you go the the website you can download the directions to the wiring harness and it give all the part numbers of what you need.. Part number for the harness is 60101 if you are interseted.. What i did for the transfer case is i split the 231c and the 231j and just used the sye and rear half of the tc and bolted it back together. so the case is split half front chevy and jeep rear.. so you can call it a 231c/j LOL.. if you want you can look at my member pages and check out my pictures of the process. If you have any question feel free to ask and i will try to answer if i can.. I will give you a list of the part numbers for all the stuff and where to get it..

Summit racing

1: advance adapters motor mounts ADD-713007
2: painless wiring harness PRF-60101
3: Vehicle speed sensor PRF-60115
4: carter fuel pump CRT-P5001
5: B&M Sport shifter BMM-80776

Novak Conversions

1: tranny mount adapter RM103

and of course from the local auto parts you need all the misc stuff like fuel line, fitting, fluids, nuts and bolts.

I also used factory headers from a 1985 chevy monte carlo v-6 4.3, for the stock exhaust manifold suck for deep water crossings..LOL. I also made my own tranny mount out of a 2 in square tubing. I also kept the stock jeep radiator for it is a 3row and just made my own hoses to mate it to the chevy motor. Also made my own air cleaner assembly , Air hat off a caddilac, hose from a 94 jeep gc, box from a chevy truck ( i actually forgot where the air box came from but i will post pictures so you can see the set up. I had to get the driveshaft front shortened and rear lengthened.
If i can remember anything else i will post it.

I hope this help alittle.

Image
>
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also look here for other pictures of the conversion and other stuff..
http://www.jeepforum.com/gallery/browseimages.php?c=4&userid=14787
 
#11 · (Edited)
leftlanetruckin said:
well if you wanna email me step by step instructions...that'll be just dandy...
i already decided to try and use the rear jeep t/c and the front chevy t/c halves, so that looks like a winner.....
do you think the painless kit is worth the money?? and what all does it entail, as far as the parts they send etc etc etc.i have had the howell harness highly recomended to me......think they brian said it was $795 inc new fuel pump...
can shoot me an email if it is better, leftlanetruckin@aol.com

thanks in advance, there is a thread i just started before i noticed this one...had a hard few days!
thanks
martin
Yes i have used it and it worked perfectly.. alot less headaches.
with this harness you reuse the stock chevy brain and all you need to get is the fuel pump.. I havent used the howell harness so i cant give you an honest answer.. as far as the parts that come with the painless harness i just the wiring and all the connectors for all the electronics and sensors.. you reuse part of your jeep harness for the gauges, fuel, oil, temp, and tach. it was easy for me for i have access to all-data so all the colors of the jeep harness where easy to figure out. As far as step by step instructions , i dont have any. so while you are doing the conversion and run into something give me a shout and i will try and help you out.

just a bit of advice dont let the driveshafts dictate the placement of the engine, this way you can put the motor where you want and if you ever want to put a v8 in you can. just my 2cents.
__________________
 
#13 ·
Spdfrkss said:
As far as step by step instructions , i dont have any.
Thats about it. You just go by the "get everything working" method. Obvously getting the motor running is 1st priority, then I did Jeep electrics to make it legal (lights, wipers, and such), then last was the dash gages. My last part was an adapter box each from Dakota Digital for the speedo and tach, but I was using the real Chevy wiring. I don't know if Painless helps with the tach or getting proper VSS to the computer.
 
#14 ·
my current speedo is cable driven, so have to add that to the list of bits n pieces...
i think i remember seeing a vss that has a cable adapter too? ring any bells with anyone?
like i said in a previous post, will be removing wiring today and starting on the service items for the running gear, new seals,gaskets,filters etc etc.
looks like advance auto parts is gonna know every time i'm in town again...:laugh:
will see how far i get today and see if foto's are worthwhile...:confused:
thanks for all the advise guys,will keep updates going on here...
martin
 
#15 · (Edited)
JeeperDon said:
I don't know if Painless helps with the tach or getting proper VSS to the computer.
for the tach you will use your jeeps existing wiring harness for that,,,

leftlanetruckin said:
i think i remember seeing a vss that has a cable adapter too? ring any bells with anyone?
martin
as far as the vss gets the signal from their vss that you can get from summit part number prf-60115 which goes in line with the existing speedo cable.. and that takes care of that..

The part i like the most with the painless wiring harness and using the tbi setup is that all i would have to is change the computer to work a chevy v8. every connector on the wiring harness will work on all the sensors on a v8 so it makes the swap that much easier...
 
#16 ·
Spdfrkss said:
for the tach you will use your jeeps existing wiring harness for that,
Not actually. The signal comes from the computer, which has been swapped out to a Chevy computer. The pulse counts can and usually are very different. Some use 1 pulse per rev, some 1 pulse per two revs. The cyl count also effects the problem. All you can really do is take the new computer's tach pulse, wire it to the Jeep's, and see what it reads. In my case it read 1/3 (I think) of the proper count, which required a box to alter the pulse rates.
 
#17 ·
JeeperDon said:
Not actually. The signal comes from the computer, which has been swapped out to a Chevy computer. The pulse counts can and usually are very different. Some use 1 pulse per rev, some 1 pulse per two revs. The cyl count also effects the problem. All you can really do is take the new computer's tach pulse, wire it to the Jeep's, and see what it reads. In my case it read 1/3 (I think) of the proper count, which required a box to alter the pulse rates.
I dont know about your setup but on the (pre 92) tbi the tach pulse comes right of the coil, at least that is where mine comes from and my factory tach is just about acurate,( well as accurate as the factory ones are) I did the test between autometer tach and factory tach and an engine diagnastic computer..
 
#18 ·
rob, i think don is running a vortec motor, with the multiport injection, where we have the tbi setup...that is probably the difference as far as the tach goes, glad to hear i will haev an easier time of it as far as that goes.....
well, here's todays update.....
went to get the headers, only to find they are for a sbc, so unless they wanted to gimme 2 cylinders for free, they are gettin reordered...:laugh:
it was cheaper to get a complete motor gasket set, and not the individual ones, so i thaught hell with it, and currently have the heads off it.. and i am kinda glad i did, they were allllll gummed up!!
the kit includes new valve seals too, so i may as well pop the valves out, put new seals in and lap them into the seats. hell, may as well put a cam in it while im there huh?:p any suggestions??? the cam feels ok, but havent got it out yet and measured the lobes.
need to get a vibration damper puller tommorow, and the valve compressor, both of which will come from advanced auto parts....i love loaner tools.....that and a case of brake cleaner and degreaser......gotta love chemicals for makin it easy.
the heads look good, as does the block and bores, i measured them out with the verniers and they are bang on, so good news there, it just looks like its been sat a lot and got all gunky inside (technical phrase there..."gunky")
the flywheel, t/converter and tranny all look good, and the 231c hd is on the bench, i offered a spare sye upto to it, and everything looks to line up, we'll see..
well, thats all for now guys n gals, will hopefully be rebuilding the motor tommorow after a damn good cleaning....
lemme know what you think as far as the cam goes, will prob get a new oil pump while its all open too....
 
#19 ·
leftlanetruckin said:
the kit includes new valve seals too, so i may as well pop the valves out, put new seals in and lap them into the seats. hell, may as well put a cam in it while im there huh?:p any suggestions??? the cam feels ok, but havent got it out yet and measured the lobes.
...
Yeah i realized that he has a cmpi setup which completely different then what we have.. but i just wanted to make sure everyone knows that what we are using you can use the factory jeep harness to connect to coil for the proper readings..

just remember that if you change the cam out you have to keep it stock.. otherwise if you bump up the cam you will have to get the computer reprogrammed for the different size cam.. dont ask how i know...LOL needless to say it was cheaper to go back to the stock cam then to go thru all the trouble with a new computer..
 
#20 ·
:rofl: rob, you sound like you learn the same way i do, the hard way...:rofl:

i will measure the cam tommorow if i take it out, gonna do the front main seal also, so i may slide her out and check, the lobes look good from the top, no raised or lower sections, but a lot easier to throw the verniers at it and see whats what.
i didnt manage to get that damned pipe fitting out, think i mullered the threads up...so i dont know my options there? rethread it and get a fitting? or look for a good used one? i doubt rethreading will hold that good, is crappy cast aluminum...
it did have a blanking cover on the underside of it, looked like part of the intake manifold gasket, i did see that the instructions in the gasket set said something about that.....will re read when its time to throw it in there. oh what fun huh?:laugh:
 
#21 ·
yup that is me.. see when i got the jimmy i pulled the motor out and just started to rebuild it ( as per someone else suggestion) boy did it backfire LOL as far as the connector I guess i just got lucky with my hose connection. if you have a hard time finding one let me know and ill see if i can get you one out here and all you have to do is pay the shipping+part.. you just have to let me know if you tbi is centered (square ) on the manifold or is offset or twisted to the driver side... if you are unsure just take a look at my pictures and you will see if it is the same or different..
 
#22 ·
you guys are talking about vss adapters and such, but aren't you using the jeep rear section of the t-case??? if so, why do you need an aftermarket anything for your speedo. the gear is still on the tail shaft of the t-case, so as long as the jeep parts are there, it will read fine.
 
#23 ·
jipjip said:
you guys are talking about vss adapters and such, but aren't you using the jeep rear section of the t-case??? if so, why do you need an aftermarket anything for your speedo. the gear is still on the tail shaft of the t-case, so as long as the jeep parts are there, it will read fine.
you need the vss input for the chevy TBI computer so that the computer can control fuel and the lock up of the trannys torque convertor.. other wise if you were just using a carb motor then you dont need it and all you need is just the gear for the speedo
 
#24 ·
just had a look through your foto's rob, looks like you had the same idea as i did as far as motor placement, i am going to set it far enough forward to be able to get to the damned bellhousing bolts....had fun with them in the blazer,:brickwall
i will have a look around tommorow and let you know as far as the intake goes.. its not something i am waiting on, so no big rush, yet!:laugh:
I didnt even get to look at wiring today, spent too long getting the power steering pump off, hidden bolts and all.... but its all apart now, so the rebuild begins tommorow, i hope..
 
#25 ·
leftlanetruckin said:
just had a look through your foto's rob, looks like you had the same idea as i did as far as motor placement, i am going to set it far enough forward to be able to get to the damned bellhousing bolts....had fun with them in the blazer,:brickwall
i will have a look around tommorow and let you know as far as the intake goes.. its not something i am waiting on, so no big rush, yet!:laugh:
I didnt even get to look at wiring today, spent too long getting the power steering pump off, hidden bolts and all.... but its all apart now, so the rebuild begins tommorow, i hope..
Just wanted to let you know that you can reuse the chevy power steering pump.. the pressure side hose does fit into the hole on the jeep steering box.. at least that was easy..LOL some people say that you have to go and get special hoses to work the setup we got.
 
#26 ·
good deal on the p/steering.....tryin to get the pump off the big aluminum bracket is a nightmare, got 2 pullers and none worked on the pulley, so had to wiggle the bracket then undo the last bolt in the bracket still....
wonder if wal mart sell good degreaser by the truck load?:laugh: :laugh: