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I am a noob to modifications and request assistance

2.2K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  Mudzilla6661  
#1 ·
I have a 2008 JK Sahara Unlimited. I am thinking of putting 35" tires on it with 18" rims. I also was thinking of putting a 3.75" suspension lift.

What pros and cons should I be aware of before pulling the trigger on this expense?

I live in Nashville and will also be using this vehicle for commuting about 40 miles round trip per day.
 
#2 ·
Simple, you need only 2.5" of lift to fit 35's on the JK.

Save the extra money from not going to 3.5"+ of lift. Best bet is to try to keep a lift to the minimal necessary. Go over 3" and things start becoming more complicated and very expensive.

For a great on-highway ride, check out AEV 2.5" lift kits.
Do a search, also. There are 1000's of threads out here about different lift kits. Just depends on your budget and what you intend to do with your JK.
 
#5 ·
with that auto most people will say 5.13-5.38.

The main thing with 35"s is back space of 4.5 or less. and 2.5 bump stops. the lift should be equal or greater than the bump stops. That year and the auto has a issue were at a point of drop the drive shaft front hits the trans oil pan ripping the boot if i recall. at what point that happens no idea.

There is a reason that 2.5 lifts are popular, much less involved. If we are talking "spring" lifts remember they tend to run that measurement from the rear; so, a 2.5 lift is rear. the front will be more like 3.5. Now you need track bars and control arms to set the axle center and caster angle.

3" lifts are 4" front 3" rear. ect.
 
#7 ·
I fit 37's under mine with the Rock Krawler 2.5" Max Travel lift, and flat fenders. So, yes, 35's will fit fine, even with stock fenders.

And all of the above advice is spot-on good advice.
 
#8 ·
I still have stock brake lines. my lift is 4.25(3.5springs with a 3/4 spacer) but sits about 4.5+. rear(3.5+3/4 is a bit higher depending on load it can be 5" or 4.5". as long as the front brake line you remove that 4" solid steel clamp that is bolted to the lower perch. You have enough line there for about shocks that have 11" travel. Its not just the brake lines , you have the ABS lines too. Rear you need a drop bracket for the rear brake line. BUT unless the shocks are LONGER than stock. its moot as you are not getting more drop. Complete kits will have much of what is need. NONE of them come with drive lines. Lifts of 3 and up tend to be in the 1k per inch to be complet. Meaning all control arms, track bars springs. brake line relocation stuff or new lines at times.

what is your budget?
Tires $$$$ 35"s on a 18" X5 at least 2K with certs. on stock rims. a 18x7.5 will need spaces. another 250$
Lift $$$$ from 500-5K
Gears$$$$ 1500 price varies a lot too where you live, needs carriers etc.....

Jeep never rhymes with cheap. Go cheap and you next post might be, I have DW now what. Your jeep has miles on it too. 35"s tend to bring out hidden wear.
 
#9 ·
My budget is looking like around 3k for tires and wheels. The lift kits I have seen range from $600 to $2500. Am I being too cheap or am I close?

The rims I want are the Metal Mulisha ones on Quadratec and the Mickey Thompson Deegan 38s

Any thoughts on those choices?

Thank you all for your input.
 
#10 ·
I have another dumb question. I am sorry for being naive here. When the description of a rim says it is 18"x9", what does that mean in terms of the tire size I need to look at? I know the rim is 18" in diameter and 9" wide. Most of the tires I am looking at are 33" with a rim size of 18" and a width of 13.5"

I am just unsure of how the tire size and wheel size work together. Does the width of the tire have to match the width of the wheel?

Again, I apologize for my lack of knowledge on this
 
#11 ·
I have another dumb question. I am sorry for being naive here. When the description of a rim says it is 18"x9", what does that mean in terms of the tire size I need to look at? I know the rim is 18" in diameter and 9" wide. Most of the tires I am looking at are 33" with a rim size of 18" and a width of 13.5"

I am just unsure of how the tire size and wheel size work together. Does the width of the tire have to match the width of the wheel?

Again, I apologize for my lack of knowledge on this
Some tires state a minimum rim width (also stated as testy width) At 8" wide a rim can usually work for a 10-14" wide tire at 18 inch. BUT an 18 at 33 does not have much side wall so sidewall flex is reduced - reducing flex will make a stiffer ride - and lower traction on extreme deflection surfaces like rocks tree trunks and sand!
 
#12 ·
go with a 17x9 . less cost for the tire and with 35's you will be a good trail set up and ok DD.

If you plan to play hard then the higher dollar kits can be better. I say can as they are not all equal. If i was to start all over and went with a single maker and was looking at 3.5 i would go with metal cloak. they have the longest spring out i believe in that size. Their new flex joints seem well excepted by the wheelers that have them. Next in line is not so much a single maker but what the ends are made with. the standard has been Johnny Joints. JJs are not cheap, the lifts that use them can cost a lot.

As for how high people seem to think that lower is better and it has some merit. BUT rocks never give they take. Its all about dif height and belly height. Only tires can raise the dif and belly and the unless you plan to go with Dana 60s you should stay at 35 or less. The lift will only raise the belly and with stock length arms end of the road is about 4.5. Getting hung up on the JK belly is a PITA. Since a "Belly up" on a jk is WAAAAY expensive and not a bolt up job. that leaves lift as our cost effective way to do it. With the MANY people i wheel with in two clubs. NONE ever said they wished they went with a smaller lift. with the shocks that you would use at say 3.5+ your front drop is a lot and drive lines will be needed front at least, rear on a 4d will last. y pipe mod.
 
#14 ·
2 or 2.5" kit from AEV, Teraflex, Rock Krawler or Old Man Emu (ARB). If you are just wanting to do something with a little less money, you can also get a budget boost but in my opinion, if you have the cash it is probably better to go with a spring/shock lift. There are other kits out there but these seem more popular for a reason if you're just starting out. Save money now and go with 16 or 17 inch rims. I ran stock sahara rims for my first set of 35's and needed spacers, etc. I just got a package of 5 16" black rims and 35's and it cost less than my original tires alone.

If you have an Auto, gears are also a very recommended thing. I ran for a year with 35's and my 3:73 sahara gears and the Jeep was a dog. Saved more money and regeared, threw a locker in the front, etc.

Jeep owners are all here to help but we also have different opinions, 4x4 styles and differing definitions of rock crawling :)

Just read, read some more and most importantly have fun!
 
#22 ·
No, I am not that handy just yet. There is a 4WD store and shop about 5 miles from my house and they are doing the install. In this situation, I do not mind paying the extra to have it done because otherwise I would be paying for them to fix what I messed up and then paying them to do it right. 5 more days.
 
#24 ·