spindel bearings are in side the spindel to help support the short axel end they should be checked also and there are some 2 seals and a thrust washer that can be replaced also

 

Fuzz is correct.
The 'Spindle' bearing is INSIDE the spindle, U joint end, to support and align the short 'Stub' axle during it's many gyrations during operation.

NAPA p/n BK1 will get you a 5 piece kit including the proper bearing, bearing grease seal, thrust washer, axle to spindle 'K' seal and metal 'Grit Guard' that fits on the stub axle.

Spindle should ALWAYS be pulled off when you pull the hub off the spindle for maintinance.

The 'Wheel Bearing' are actually HUB bearings.
and these will be the ones.

Try this thread on waterproofing, you might find some useful information there,
Link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/water-proofing-ignition-axles-hubs-ect-675585/#post6395695

Remember to put some grease on all seal lips before you put things back together so you don't 'Dry Start' you new seals to death!

There are some thruths you learn when you have been doing this stuff for 40 years...

Timken Bearings (Auto Zone carries them),
Fel-Pro gaskets,
Spicer U joints,
Moog Steering Parts,
ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES!

 

Depending on whether you have disk or drum brakes there are two different sets of bearings for the 77 with a Dana 30 front axle assuming you have the original front axle in the CJ, no guarantees here. Your wheel bearing will have numbers on them that you can take to the parts store to get replacements. I would take fuzz401's advice and replace the seals and spindle bearing also.


Last Four Digits of Dana 30 Bearings
Outer Inner
Type Bearing Race Bearing Race
Drum 1349 1310 1349 1310
Disk 1349 1310 2949 2910

Jim

 

 

jim/fuzz,

Ok, thanks for all the info. I have disk breaks on my 30. I can not open your picture fuzz here at work but I will look at it when I get home. As long as I understand that even though I have Warn Premium Locking Hubs I still will use the regular Dana 30 bearing set. I am going to call up the auto parts store and tell them to order me 2 sets. Also the set inside the spindle itself. Does the spindle change when you upgrade to the Warn (6 bolt) hubs? Thanks againg for all your help.

 

spindel stays the same

 

Thanks guys for all your help. I order the wheel bearings and spindle bears from a reputable auto parts store in town. They couldn't confirm the numbers that Jim gave me but said they had everything in stock so I am going to go this evening to check it out. I have done a lot of research on this process since I haven't done it before question I have is what type of grease do you pack the bearings with? And do you have to pack the spindle bearings with grease also?

 

Fuzz was posting from a Timkin bearings book.
Timkin is the best bearings I've ever used, They are US made, top of the line, but you MUST mail order the small wheel bearings from Timkin unless you go to Auto Zone and order them... And you will pay three prices through AutoZone.

Timkin wheel bearings,
Outer wheel bearings, Tinkin p/n Set 45,
Inner wheel bearings, Tinkin p/n Set 47,
Front hub to spindle seal, Tinkin p/n 4131
AMC 20 rear, Tinkin p/n Set 5,
Dana 44 rear, Tinkin p/n Set 10.

Front are the bottom two on this page,
http://www.partsplusautostore.com/R...Bearing&subcatid=67@@Front+Wheel+Bearings+and+Seals&clientid=partsplusautostore

Or check out this page, wheel bearing sets, SBK1, and the rest of the Timkin hardware...
http://catalog.autopartsgiant.com/R...t+Wheel+Bearings+and+Seals&catid=4@@Brake/Wheel+Bearing&clientid=autopartsgiant
-----------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------

How about a different take on things,

DANA 30 AXLE PARTS,
Outer Wheel/Hub Bearing & Race, NAPA/SKF p/n BR35
Inner Wheel/Hub Bearing & Race, NAPA/SKF p/n BR50
Inner Hub To Spindle Seal, NAPA/Federal Mogul p/n S 4131
Spindle Bearing, 5 piece kit, NAPA/SKF p/n BK1

SKF is a very good set of bearings, although Japanese made, I haven't had any problems with the small sets.

The easiest way to pull the spindle,
Make sure you use BOTH nuts, and use the small washer in between,

A couple of whacks with a SOFT HAMMER wouldn't hurt, or use a wood block if you don't have a soft hammer...

Here are a couple of things that will help with the spindle (BK1) set,

This shows where the spindle bearing goes, and where the metal 'Grit Guard' from the kit goes,

This shows the spindle bearing in place, and the three 'Soft' pieces of the kit,
The grease seal, the thrust washer, and the axle to spindle seal.

In the foreground is the tool I made to get the bearing out with,
AND REMEMBER!
You don't have to pound the crap out of the bearing!
IT DOES NOT fully seat in the bore provided! SO you don't have to bottom it out fully and take a chance on binding the bearings!

Here is a graphic that shows the bearing (LEFT) and the seal arrangement.
Remember, the largest seal actually fits over the grit guard and turns with the axle.

This might help too,

-----------------------------------
-----------------------------------

One other thing that might help,
This is just a piece of exhaust tubing, available at the 'Discount' autoparts places,
Makes a great, low buck driver for the grit guards...

 

thanks JeepHammer, I really appreciate the pictures those help me out a lot. The auto parts store I am going to is a mom and pop store I will see about the brand and part numbers everytime I get bearings from them it is usually Timkin . Do you need to change out the grit guards everytime. Or is it just better to do it now while you have every thing apart?

 

I almost NEVER change out the 'Grit Guards'...
The only time I replace them is if they are bent up, dinged up, rusted apart, ect...

Just use some emery cloth and clean up the inside part where the 'K' seal rests and put on a new 'K' seal and you should be fine.

DO NOT forget to lube the back side of the spindle where the thin lip of the 'K' seal rests or you will wipe that seal lip out in short order!

Would you like to know how to get the proper amount of grease into the spindle and spindle bearing?

As you will find out, if you heap the spindle or stub axle with grease, it will be scraped off as you put things back together...

This is a 'Sneaky' way to fill the void between the stub axle and spindle housing...

Remember, where grease is, water and moisture can't be, so it's a REALLY good idea to fill that void!

While the spindle is off, drill a small hole outside of the hub bearing pad,

Then you can use a 'Grease Needle' (This one is used for lubricating the bar of a chain saw) to fill the void between spindle and axle once the spindle is back on the vehicle...

THIS DOES NOT LET YOU OFF THE HOOK FOR PROPERLY LUBRICATING THE SPINDLE AND WHEEL BEARINGS BEFORE ASSEMBLY!
---------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------

Here is a way to fill the void in the hub once assembled.
Remember, where grease is, water and air can't be.

The reason for this is simple,
Anyplace grease is, AIR CAN'T BE...
If you have a hot hub and you splash off in a cold water hole, the air in the hub will contract and 'SUCK IN' the water past the seals.

If that air 'Void' isn't there, you won't have the 'SUCK' when the hub hits water...
-----------
DISCLAIMER!
This IS NOT for street driven 'Mall Pounder' jeeps,
Or desert racers & rock crawlers that never see mud holes or deep water.

This is for TRAIL JEEPS that are going to ford deep water, splash through all kids of mud holes, mud boggers, jeeps that are driven in water of any kind...
----------

Locate the slots in the hub intended for knocking out the bearing races,

Drill into those slots from the outside using a fairly small drill, you don't need much of a hole for a squirt of grease.

Then you use a little bigger drill bit on the outside of the hub so you can thread the hole for a grease nipple (Called a 'Zerk')...
This little gadget is a Grease nipple or Grease Zerk wrench, and it's made to remove broken off grease nipples, thread holes for new grease Zerks, install and remove grease Zerks...

They cost about $8 around here.

Now, you have used the larger drill on the outside of the hub, and tapped with the Grease Zerk tool, install a grease Zerk, and it will look like this,

Besides a hand drill, this is everything you need to do this modification...

The yellow line on the hub is to remind me to turn that Zerk 'DOWN' before removing/installing a wheel so I don't snag on the Zerk...

 

Well that was easier than I thought it was going to be. ONE LAST QUESTION???? I got some used Warn Premium Locking Hubs in great conditions off of ebay do I need to pack that with grease or just coat the insides?

I used the rent-a-tool program at Auto Zone for everything. They even had the spindle puller:

Ran across a couple of problem when trying to get the spindle bearing out so I used a pilot bearing puller.

Other than that everything went good. Thanks jeephammer for the great info on everything. I went ahead and installed the zerk fittings on there so I should be able to fill that thing up before I hit the trail.

 

Having the right tools makes ALL the difference!
Quick, clean and much easier than you thought!

Depending on the hub, late model Warn hubs don't get filled.
They have white lithium grease, very light coat, inside and shouldn't be filled up or they won't work right!
(Ask 'Mr. Grease Everything' how he knows that!)

I'm using white lithium SPRAY ON chain lube in mine (about 2 years now) and it seems to work GREAT!
A can of chain lube will last forever at this rate!

They have seals, USE THEM or the hub will fill up with water and crud.

When I'm pumping my hubs full, I do it with the hubs off so I don't hydraulic out the rear seal... Gives the grease somewhere to go...
Clean off the excess, slap on a seal and the lockout, and you are loaded for bear!
--------------------------------

That pilot bearing tool looks pretty good, what did you pay for that and where did you get it?
Looks like p/n 27059 ?

And the spindle puller?
Where, how much and what part number?
That looks like something to take in the trail box with me!

 

That pilot bearing tool looks pretty good, what did you pay for that and where did you get it?
Looks like p/n 27059 ?!

Auto Zone goes for like $25 and worked like a charm!

And the spindle puller?
Where, how much and what part number?
That looks like something to take in the trail box with me!

Auto Zone again for $20 don't know the part number but if you go to the counter they have that diagram with all the tools they rent and its on there. With both you will need a slide hammer. The sell that there to for $25. Now I am sure that charge you full price due to the fact that I just rented these tools and brought them back to get a full refund. But if you decided to keep them they have already charged you so it doesn't matter.

I will have to go buy a spray can of White Lithium when I get off work. They seem to be getting stuck when I lock them and don't want to come UNLOCKED. Hopefully that will do the trick

 

I wish I had read this thread before I rebuilt my front axle and added disk brakes to the front. This kind of information is mandatory reading for all of us week-end mechanics. Thanks for such a great thread.

Jim

 

My gear puller works great for pulling the spindle, but the spindle puller looks to be more compact for the trail box.

I go from the spindle end inward at the bearing with my air hammer tool, so knocking out the spindle bearing isn't a problem for me, but I could sure use that pilot bearing attachment for some automatic transmissions I have around here!
I'm tired of breaking out the die grinder to get those stupid bushings out...
-----------------------------

Usually when guys have the front end down this far, I urge them to go ahead and pull the axles out and change U joints if they need it,
And drop the front cover off the differential, drop the differential carrier, and remove the axle tube seals that are in the housing just outboard of the differential carrier.

Nothing like keeping the water & crud out of the center section!
------------------------------

UPDATE,
I went and bought the tools shown above.
The spindle puller is a clever little device with threads for two or three different kinds of spindles inside, and a slide hammer attachment on the back. Looks like 5/8" SAE (Fine) thread AND 1/2" SAE (fine) threads so I'm looking for a spring bolt for a big truck to make the slap hammer out of in that size.

Auto Zone (OEM) p/n 27104, cost was $25 flat.
Not bad for a tool that guarantees a clean pull of the spindle with no damage and does several sizes of spindles.
----------------------------

The Pilot Bearing Puller is another matter.
Seems a little flimsy to me.
The actual work arms look like pressed metal pieces and I'm dubious about longevity.
Would be fine as a rental since you don't pay for broken parts, but I purchased mine and now I'm wondering how it will hold up...?

Auto Zone p/n 27059, price was $18.00 flat.
-------------------------------

The spring bolt is from the local NAPA and is for Big trucks,
$6.
The 'Hammer' weight is off one of those tool sale slide hammers from 'China' that came apart the first time I used it... The weight doesn't have to do anything but be heavy, so even 'China' made parts can do that...

Works GREAT with the Spindle Puller, but the Pilot bushing puller is going to take a 5/8" SAE (fine) thread bolt or slide hammer to work.

 

What grease should be used on spindle bearings? White lithium or bearing grease?

I also read that the bearing doesn't bottom out when re-installing, how do you know how far to put the bearing in?

Thanks a lot!

Blair

 

Use wheel bearing grease not white lithium on the inner spindle bearing. You can use the same grease you packed the bearings with.

Only drive the bearing in far enough to slip in the small v-seal until it's flush with the spindle.

One other tip: NEVER use boat trailer bearing grease (the blue water resistant stuff) for wheel bearings on a road/trail vehicle. It simply can't take the heat from the brakes and will break down quick. Then you'll be doing wheel bearings again and possibly replacing the spindle and bearing hub.

 

I am in the process of installing new bearings as well. To confirm the part numbers from NAPA are:

BR35
BR50
BK1

You will need two of each of the above part numbers.

 

What a great thread that I referenced alot while doing my rebuild. I think that this should be a sticky with a "bearing maintenance/replacement" title just a suggestion of course.

I also wanted to add to this thread as I found it difficult to put the inner seal in after I lubed up my bearing.

I used the old hub as a seal driver and it worked quite nicely and will now be placed in the jeep special tool box.

Just a couple of wacks with the dead blow hammer and I was in business

 

Very Cool Thanks.

 

Love the grease zerk idea.