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Walstr

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Greetings;
I'm using "CLR" in attempt to improve heater core flow. I hooked up a funnel to 5/8" hose to core, flushed w/water, filled core w/"CLR" & adding a few fresh ounces every couple hours. (the 3/4" extra hose dumps to a jug.)

At this minimal flow, I suppose flow direction is moot. It's a chemical thang, not a forceful mechanical flush. Curious if the 5/8" hose flow is to the bottom of the core?
 

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It’s interesting that you posted about this. I’m looking to flush mine as well to try and get my heat a little hotter. The video I watched earlier said not to use CLR as it’s not good for the aluminum.

I was planning on just putting water through it and hoping for a better run.
 
It would be wise to neutralize the acid in CLR after you've done the flush by using a ratio of one cup of ammonia in a gallon of water. Fill the coil and let it sit for 10-15 minutes. then flush with clean water. The coil is either copper or aluminum but very thin walled. Acid will chew thru it fairly quick. The odds of having to replace that coil will not be in your favor.
 
water hose with not too much pressure to break it. go back/forth 25 or 30 times till water is clear both ways. my xj got HOT AIR. burn your fingers.
stick 2 pieces of plastic pipe in the hoses and get to work...
flush onto ground...
 
So after I flushed the heater core with my garden hose I refilled it with fluid and let the car run to get the air out. The heat will go hot and cold. Today after I drove to work, I popped the hood and noticed that the hoses on the heater core are both not the same temperature again. So I’m thinking I have to do this again.

Could the issue with the blend door not working properly cause this? If I’m going to get the same results I won’t waste my time or money.

The AC/Heat temperature knob also is loose. I still feel the “notches” but there isn’t any real resistance when I turn it. Meaning I don’t feel anything moving. Other than the actual knob.
 
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