no idea, maybe if it happens again just replace all the hoses. Hoses will stretch and form to a larger size over time.

If you replace the hose make sure you get one that is for ATF. Hoses for fuel are degraded by transmission fluid

 

post a pic of the line where it popps off

 

thers a kink somewhere and it builds up pressure and blows off at the weakest point.

 

Yep, have you verified that the cooler is not plugged completely or partially?

 

Hi there,

So I'm having the same issue and don't know what and how to check for issues.

To give you a brief history of the problem, back in 2008, while I was on vacation, my dad was driving the car and this line had popped off of the transmission connection for the first time. The issue was fixed by a mechanic. About 8 months ago, the transmission stopped responding due to a leak. I didn't know enough to know where the leak was from; I just changed the oil and filter and everything was back to normal. Then, about a month or two later, while driving the transmission stopped responding again. This time it was evident where the leak was from. The same line but at a different connection had ripped off. I changed the connectors and used a heavy duty ATF line and everything went back to normal.

Again, a couple of days a go while driving the transmission gave out. That same line had popped off of the transmission for a second time. What and how should I check and see what the problem is.

I'm including a few more images below:

In advance, appreciate your assistance.

 

If your talking about the rear line poping out of the tranny there is a new fitting that screws into the trans that will replace the old plastic clip. Got mine at the dealer. If your having problems with the acual line splitting at the joints which is what I think I was seeing in the picture I would replace the cooler lines. You dont want those lines to pop off while your driving, trans fluid will pour out without your knowing and you could burn up the transmission. I hope I was able to help some or offer some guidence as to what I would do to fix the problem the right way the first time. Let me know now how it works out.

 

If your talking about the rear line poping out of the tranny there is a new fitting that screws into the trans that will replace the old plastic clip. Got mine at the dealer...

TJorange, thanks for your help! I was able to find the product, first online, then, at a local Car Quest store (Dorman 800-610 Automatic Transmission Line Connector).

What I did was:

1. Changed out the original line connector with "Dorman 800-610".

2. Flushed the cooler with a couple of "Dr. Tranny Kooler Kleen 19001" (not the best product).
3. Put in a new filter
4. Put 5.5 Qrts. of "Castrol High Mileage Transmission Fluid".
5. Put 1.5 of "Lucas Transmission Fix".

I will most likely change the second connector as well with my next fluid flush.

Thanks!

 

Thanks for your response. I actually called up all the dealers around the area; none of them have the line. They said it's a discontinued item. I even tried other places like AutoZone, PepBoys, and etc. They all said the same thing "discontinued item". The clip on it is actually aluminum, nevertheless, if there is a better alternative why not.

My only other concern is that something is causing a very high pressure, hence, something ought to give. My suspicions are the valve and the cooler. Any suggestions/experience is highly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

If I remember correctly, a lot of people were removing the check valve in the line. If you have a heavy equipment shop anywhere by you, most of those guys could make new lines from mimicking the old ones.

 

Oh that's good to know! I haven't been able to find a replacement valve and that should explain why that is.

You could always use ATF hose and a barbed fitting.

Thanks! I made a note of it.

 

You could always use ATF hose and a barbed fitting.

 

^ I've made new lines/repairs like that Polka and while maybe not the correct way seemed to work well. I'll also use 2 fuel injector clamps on every non-fitting hose connection, with the screws on opposite sides, to make sure they don't leak.

I'd be real concerned if this happened 3 different times; "the transmission stopped responding due to a leak". Wasn't it slipping some and does the trans still work well again when full of fluid?

Since your lines have blown off 3 times it may be time to find some type of fluid pressure tester to connect between the high pressure line to find out just what the pressure is? Parts stores may even have loaner ones. Good luck.

BTW, excellent pics w/labels!

 

I'd be real concerned if this happened 3 different times; "the transmission stopped responding due to a leak". Wasn't it slipping some and does the trans still work well again when full of fluid?

Since your lines have blown off 3 times it may be time to find some type of fluid pressure tester to connect between the high pressure line to find out just what the pressure is? Parts stores may even have loaner ones. Good luck.

BTW, excellent pics w/labels!

Uniblurb, you're correct. The very first time did some damage to, I believe, the first and second gears. That's why I've been using the "Lucas Transmission Fix". Lucas has smoothed out most of it. I only notice the issue on steep inclines when the car is first starting to move. I've been wanting to rebuild the transmission but have not found a shop I can trust (locally) yet.

I really believe it is the directional valve causing the issue. I will keep a closer eye on things and see if I can pick up on any signs. I think a pressure tester is a great idea. I'll look into it.

Thanks for your feedback and complement!
:cheers2:

 

Thanks!

I found similarly priced test gauges as well. I'll see if I can find a loaner.

Oh, that's great to know. I most likely have the 42RE. Thanks for sharing this info!

Yes, I'll keep that option in mind.

As suggested, I requested the Build Sheet. Can't wait to get it and update everything in my profile.

 

It wasn't too bad. You'll need a 19mm deep socket for the original one and a 21mm deep socket for the new one. If the fluid is out it will take you 5-10 minutes to swap.

 

Haha - and what if I have fresh fluid I just put last month?

 

You could always clean all the dirt off around the fitting area while then putting a clean oil pan under it for the ATF to drain into once you remove the line/fitting. I've recovered a lot of new ATF/coolant while then straining it through a fine coffee filter in a funnel into a gal jug while putting it right back in. Takes some patience and time for the fluids to be strained but worth the $.

Personally I wouldn't just replace that fitting as a preventative measure. You probably don't have too high of a trans line pressure like the OP does in having so many leaks or connectors/hoses coming off.

As far as having 50/50 old/new ATF here's an experiment I heard and read about for changing all the old fluid out.

My son has a 96 4.0 XJ with AW4 trans (only on 1st ZJ's) and I was installing a new trans oil cooler before he hauled a huge trailer 2,600 miles in moving to S.Cal. Since the metal lines where leaking at the hose crimps I just cut the metal lines off slightly in front of the oil pan while putting flares on both.

I then poured 2 gals of good quality ATF in a clean 5 gal bucket while running a hose into the bottom of the bucket from the trans return line. Also ran a hose from the high-pressure line into the bottom of an old 5 gal bucket to catch the old/nasty fluid coming out.

I then started it up and worked real well with the old fluid shooting out and new fluid being sucked in by the return line. Then all of the sudden when the new fluid bucket was half empty the suction stopped even with me putting the bucket up high on the fender. Maybe I should have had this bucket higher to begin with? I shut the engine down pretty quick since didn't want the trans running which may not be getting fluid to all the parts.

I was kind of shocked to find there was no fluid at all on the dipstick and the pan was empty! I ended up adding 3 1/2 qts through the filler tube to bring the trans fluid up to the proper level.

Not sure about this bucket procedure but was pretty happy I changed 7 1/2 qts of ATF out from old to new. Was also real happy it brought OD back on the trans while my son made that long trip safely with no leaks.

I'd highly suggest a trans oil cooler on any Jeep since the trans gets just too hot which shortens the life.

 

Haha - and what if I have fresh fluid I just put last month?

Don't like spending $80 in fluid!?! Haha

 

Yah - I sent a sample to Blackstone, they said looks good. I wrote back and said "okay, so now my fluid is 50% brand new and 50% 20 years old... when do I change again?" They said "send another sample in 15k and we'll let you know."
Hopefully I don't need to do anything very lossy in the interim. p

 

Crazy! Investigating the trans cooler is on my to-do list. Not sure if I have one; guessing if the 4.0 / 42RE combo didn't come with one then I don't have it.

 

Typically the trans cooler came on ZJ's with the pre-tow or full-tow packages. The exception is the 98 and bad move not including it, especially on the 5.2/5.9 V8 models. Look through your grill in front of your AC condenser , which is located in front of the rad, and if you have a finned unit with rubber hoses attached you have the trans oil cooler.

Below is a B&M supercooler I've used before and seems to work well for cooling the trans at only $57. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to hook one up and nice it has a bypass valve in it so during the cold weather temps it lets the trans heat up normally until the fluid thins out.

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421866980&sr=8-1&keywords=B%26M+supercooler

Also noticed you have "TBD" listed a bunch for parts in your profile. Go back to post #15 in this thread and I posted a link for getting a build sheet. Follow the directions in that post and Jeep should email you one in a couple days.

Not trying trying to hijack this thread and I'm still keeping track of any info or updates by ZJsent.

 

Also trying to avoid thread hijack.
I have the build sheet, but it doesn't say Dana 30/35/XX for the axles; and it only has info for the rear:
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle

I assume this means it's a "Dana 35," and I assume the front is the same, but I figured next time I crawl underneath I'd check out the data plate. Let's take this to PM for further discussion.

 

Almost done and you do have the Dana 35 rear axle while the front should be the D30. If there's no tag on the differential cover bolts you'll see it on the differential casting near the top. You probably don't have the tow package, which would be listed on your build sheet, since you have 3.55 gearing while the tow packages normally have 3.73 gearing.

 

All ZJ's have the trans cooler in the radiator AFAIK. It's the AUX cooler in front of the radiator that the tow package models got (except 98).

 

Good point on the internal trans cooler in the radiator vs the auxiliary trans cooler. Kinda tried to point the later out by saying look for the finned unit with rubber hoses in front of the AC evaporator while posting a link to an external auxiliary cooler.

 

It's more like a trans fluid warmer than a cooler given that it heats the transmission fluid to near motor temps. When I separated the two it knocked off close to 5* on my motor temps too.

 

Where did you relocate it to? How did you measure your coolers temp? I think that's a very smart thing to do.

 

A good source for a cheap good aux cooler is a upull j/y that has 70 to 90s model junk rv motor-homes in them. :2thumbsup:

 

I don't like using old stuff like that when it comes to transmissions. This is what I used separated from the motor and it was more than you really need. Worked great and 60 bucks is nothing compared to replacing a transmission.

http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automo...00C3BBKS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421888233&sr=8-2&keywords=hayden+plate+and+fin

 

That looks good. How long did that take you to do?

 

A day to wire it up and the next day to get it situated. You could do it all in a day. There were some hurdles. I made several trips to the hardware store to find the right brass fittings. Then I had a problem getting the gauge to work because I didn't know it had to be ground to the engine. After I did that all was merry. It's tight wiring stuff up down near the ashtray area.

 

Transmission hose pops off

I had the same result in that my fluid ended up on the highway, but how I got there was probably different. I replaced my starter and had to move the hardline hose bracket around to get the bolt to start, which probably jiggled the hose loose, the front one. There is a wire spring clip that is supposed to hold the hose in, picture a round split ring, but with two flat sides. The flat sides fit into the cutouts of the hose receptacle. I don't see one in the pic that was posted earlier. The clip should be on the outside of the lip with the hose inserted all the way. Mine lost their strength and don't close down well enough to do the job. I will replace the connector with the Dorman product for sure this weekend.