I would think straight-up hex bolts would be easier to work with. Everyone's got hex sockets. Not too many with inverted hex sockets. :dunno:

 

Didn't realize they needed a different socket, I thought it was just a lip at the bottom

 

If you're thinking of the type of hex head bolt that seems to have a "wall" around the perimeter of the hex that Jeep used, that type of bolt is called an "indented hex". The reason they exist is because that little "wall" allows for more surface contact between the bolt and the assembler's wrench for more torque.

I agree with the others that stainless is not always your best friend, especially where high strength is needed.

And that's my burst of knowledge for the day!

 

Cory I had thought about using all stainless bolts when putting my CJ back together and decided not to. I for sure would not use them anywhere that really mattered like attaching a roll bar or the drivetrain. Stainless bolts will not hold up as well as non stainless bolts that are rated grade 5 or 8. Granted you don't need grade 8 to hold the fender on but that's exactly what I'd use for a roll bar or cage. What I have done was to slather the threads with a copper based anti-seize. That will last a long time. Stainless bolts have the advantage of not rusting but from what I can read that's about it. Yellow zinc plated hardware is better than the bright colored ones and also the black oxide.

 

Are there any kits?

 

I took a mess of old bolts with me to a fastener place and got normal hex headed stainless bolts when I put my 'glass tub on. For the windshield I got Allen key heads. Just be sure to use either antiseize or loctite on all the threads or stainless has a tendency to gall the threads

 

Here's another thread I found http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/list-all-bolt-sizes-jeep-cj7-help-712063/ seems most of the kits are stainless. You won't find a kit here http://www.mcmaster.com/# but this is where I buy most all of my hardware. Most of it is American made too.

 

If stainless isn't the best option, Why can't I find any Grade 5/8 non stainless kits?

 

Because that would be a waste of money. Why use a grade 8 bolt for a fender? If you have your heart set on stainless, buy the kit and then use grade 8s for the drive train and roll cage.

 

Not necessarily set on one or the other; Just want to make sure im ordering correctly Once.

If I recall correctly; the only things really needing Grade 8 would be frame side items. Engine mount, Suspension, shocks, steering.

Do the body to frame bolts need it?

I was thinking of bringing those bolts from the stainless kit to a local shop and just saying I need this in grade 8..and ordering new there.

 

... Just want to make sure im ordering correctly Once.

I have the Totally Stainless Kit, but am not quite that far along in putting things back together. There's something to be said about getting a kit that's neatly packaged for each component. Can't remember if I've seen roll bar hardware, but I know the tub to frame bolts are there. Not sure if I'll use those or Grade 8. If you're looking for a one stop shop, this kit is a good option.

 

Stainless can be very strong, don't remember the cross reference off hand, but grade 5 or higher for most.

 

I've heard there lucky to be grade 5; I'll call Totally stainless today

 

^^^ I'll echo that on the convenience factor, that's for sure. The local Ace Hardware knew me by name by the time I was close to done and I think they even considered just giving me a key to the store to lock up!^^^

 

SO the kit, then swap out what I need for Grade 8 for Frame Items then?

Which kit did you go with? the Indented Hex, or Regular Hex?

 

I made the mistake of not ordering a kit. I thought I would just reuse and replace what was necessary. I spent a lot on replacement fasteners. I don't know how much, but it was sizeable. And gas... and time. If I had my druthers, I would've gone with the kit. Everything packaged for the purpose sounds really, really good.

If indeed the kit is available in "indented head" I'd go with them. I think it keeps the "original" look.

 

Man your full of useful info today; Just finished your build thread btw!

 

Well then you're good at wasting time! Someone with a heart after mine!

Thanks

 

I ordered a kit for my 8. Waste of money. Wrong stuff, not enough stuff. I made a lot of trips to the local place to fill in the missing stuff. Stainless is soft and gauls if you don't coat it in never seize. Lock-tite doesn't work well with it either. If I had it to do over I'd go with AN.

 

What's an

 

Totally Stainless kits are your best option for getting everything at once. The "Indented Hex" kit are like OEM fasteners but in stainless. The stainless is grade 5 as it is 316 grade stainless which is a little better than 18-8 stainless.

Totally stainless also sells grade 8 stainless steel fasteners or 17-4 PH type stainless. ARP (American Racing products) is the manufacture of these type of bolts and they are typically harder than grade 8 bolts from the hardware store.... but expensive. You can get the ARP bolts in small hex head or what they call six point and twelve point high strength but only need them for steering gearbox mounts, suspension bolts, axle brake backing plates but not needed for engine mounts, shock mounts, stabilizer bars, body mounts, etc. Engine mounts hardware to frame needs to be "fine" thread which yields more strength and torque values. That's what the factory used in grade 5 hardness.

All my fasteners on my CJ are stainless with the exception of axle backing plates and steering gearbox mounting. Those are grade 8 cadmium plated but some day I will change to the ARP bolts.