The Technical Service Manual is your friend.

Matt

 

It's a PIA.

 

Very PITA ...if you buy the felpro rubber one piece it should come with plastic dowels that allows you to hold the gasket in place (with the plastic dowels) to the engine and then slide the pan over them to bolt it on. You will need an oil resistant rtv at the valleys (on both sides of gasket) in the front where the timing cover is and the rear where the main seal is. I've always hated the cork ones for the pan but that's just my 2 cents.

 

I know this is an old post but am I struggling to get the leaks to stop on my Jeep. So you apply a thin layer of RTV to both sides of the gasket across both valleys? Do you know if the right stuff would work for this application?

 

I used a Fel Pro one-piece gasket, and tied the gasket to the pan with heavy duty thread at most of the bolt holes. This holds teh gasket in place so you can insert all of the bolts. Before going finger tight with the bolts, cut the threads and discard them. The gasket and pan are held in place by the bolts at this point, and you can torque the bolts as needed in order. Also be sure to use RTV in the areas as shown in the 2 pics.

 

Question for you. I am fighting a oil leak at the rear side of my oil pan and from the timing chain cover. Did you apply RTV to the block and the oil pan at the timing chain cover and the RmS or juts on the block side? Did you allow the RTv to set up at all before bolting the oil pan up? Any experience with the right stuff for this same application,

 

It also comes with these four temporary posts that holds everything up until you get the four corners held up with bolts---then you take 'em out and replace them with bolts.

This takes away from juggling the pan with one hand and bolting with the other-----Wow! The fun everyone misses out on anymore.

----JEEPFELLER

 

I've never removed the engine mount.

The trick I've used is to take my smallest 5/16 wrench, then grind it down to be as small as possible. There is just barely enough room, but it does work. Then I'll replace it with an allen bolt to make it much easier to remove in the future. The only thing that ever gives me trouble is that crossbar under the engine. The bolts are usually completely ceased on whichever jeep I'm working on.

THem I'll put a paper thin layer of rtv to the pan, enough so that the gasket will stick and not move around

 

Last time I pulled the pan I used Permatex Hi Tack sealer and used it to cement the gasket to the pan then made some guide pins and screwed those into the block. Worked.

 

Just use the 1 piece gasket . Make sure of it. They come with snap ups. Which are dowels that screw in the block and the gasket snaps over. Lay the rtv where the timing cover meets the block and where the gasket goes from flat to semi circle and . Also where the it goes from flat to curving under the timing cover. You're gonna be fighting gravity a little and I like to let oil drip down into the pan for 3 hrs after shutting the engine off . Other wise you get oil drops on yourself. You'll still need to take a shop papertowel and wipe where the oil collects onthe rods and the camshaft and all.
To get to the one bolt that csn pinch your finger off because the motor mount is there- first place a floor jack ( a little trolley jack if you can help it . Put a piece of 2×4 on the jack and put tension. On the trsnny to bellhousing joint . The service manual says under the bellhousing only but I didn't like that. . But support the engine like that . Then remove the 3 mount bracket to engine block bolts with out pinching your finger tips off and earning the nick name stubby.. the uou can jack the engine up far enough to get a 1/4 drive with extension socket on the hidden oil pan bolt. You'll have to remove the frame brace too . And oh yea don't put your fingers in pinch points haha

 

Same experience as described above by others. I used the one piece rubber felpro. I did have to unbolt a motor mount and jack the engine up with a vertical 2x4 between the jack and engine to be able to access all of the bolts. This was in 2014, so I don’t remember all of the details, but I do remember that it was a mother.

 

You want to go a little thick with the rtvvwgere there are up and down bends. Like where it goes from flat to a curve down and also where the block meets the timing cover.

 

Thanks for the reply. So just put the rtv on the bend, but not down into the valley? Do you do both sides of the gasket?

 

You only need a dab of RTV sealant in the sharp corners of the gasket and no where else. This will be at both ends for timing chain cover and rear RMS. A dab on each side of the mating surfaces.

 

Thanks for the reply. So do you put a dab on both sides of the gasket? Also do you go finger tight to let it set up for a bit? What’s your curing process for the rtv or the right stuff 90.

 

Just went trough this myself:
"Ideas to support engine when replacing oil pan"

Discovered many things when I had it off.
1. My oil pan itself had holes in it
2. Timing Chain was worn.
3. Took several sizes if sockets to remove the oil pan bolts because of rust.
4. Might as well as put in a High Volume Oil Pump.
5. Stainless steel bolts to replace the rusted out bolts.
5/16”-18 x 3/4”: McMaster-Carr
Stainless steel version: McMaster-Carr

1/4”-20 x 1/2”: McMaster-Carr
Stainless steel version: McMaster-Carr

 

Is your engine a 4, 6, or 8?

 

4.2 inline 6.