I will be in need of a higher output alternater soon and I remember seeing somewhere that a 05-06 4.7 will work with no mods (160a vs 136a). Is that true? I don't have the funds for a MeanGreen unit and I dont trust the ones on ebay either.
High output alternator 4.7
sandfreestyle
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I will be in need of a higher output alternater soon and I remember seeing somewhere that a 05-06 4.7 will work with no mods (160a vs 136a). Is that true? I don't have the funds for a MeanGreen unit and I dont trust the ones on ebay either.
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No matter which year?
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I used this one and it was great!
and its 240 amp @ 1200 RPM
![Image]()
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250723522608
and its 240 amp @ 1200 RPM
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Yeah it's the same part number as the 05-06 4.7 GC that I was looking at.billzcat1 said:
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Sorta off topic and sorry to thread jack, but these jeeps have the regulator in the PCM right?
Im assuming yall are using the 160amp for lights and sound systems right?
Im assuming yall are using the 160amp for lights and sound systems right?
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Correct. 1991-up Jeep use Nippondenso (very occasionally Bosch) alternators with the regulator circuit in the PCM.
This is why I cringe when I hear people advising to put the later ND units on 1990 and earlier Jeeps - it don't work directly. The earlier models usually used either a Delco CS or SI series alternator - which has an inbuilt regulator.
What they're using the additional capacity for doesn't matter to me, I just try to give valid advice. My alternator (upwound CS-130, 88XJ 6-242) used parts rated for 160A, and has an actual max output of 198A. All I've got for sound is 4x50W with a single 450W 10" driver for fill-in on bass lines - I don't "thump." Why do I have it? Because I do occasionally use it - I've been known to give full-size Diesel trucks an effective surface battery charge in about five minutes' fast idling. (I do have some ancillary lights, but under 400W in toto.)
As I do the refit, I'm sure I'll have greater electrical loading (inverter, air compressor, and like that,) but I doubt I'll be overtaxing my alternator. The only really difficult setups I've been involved in were for SAR rigs - wiring up lights, service gear, and anticipating long-duration pulls on the winches with frequent expected use (I was using something like 000AWG for the main circuit and winch feedlines, and 1AWG for auxiliary distribution.) Unless you get really stupid with the lights or beats, you'll be fine - unless, of course, you're building an ambulance or a service vehicle (there's a good reason that ambulances come from the factory with dual alternators...)
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Was thinking that myself but i dont want the possible chance of getting a bad one and having to go back and try to find another.
The yards out here test all items before leaving, and also usually give at least a 30 day warranty. The one yard I use gives a 1 year warranty! Just as good as the dealership one...
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When you step up to the 160A alt, do you need to upgrade any wiring for the higher load?
The rating is the max amperage, not the constant amperage. If you aren't drawing any more power, you won't need any better wiring. Even then, 160A is a tiny step up from 136A, the stock wiring would be fine. But if you are into high-end stereo equipment or running a winch, higher (errrr, lower) gauge wiring is always a good idea. Especially if you were stepping up from the 136A to the 240A alternator on ebay.
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:thumbsup:
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ive got a 2000 wj with the 4.7 will that alternator still fit
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