Any one know about these???

 

I've got one under my XJ, and have another one getting ready to be put under a CJ7. They are quite a bit wider than a CJ axle. I think like 59 1/2 inches to like 54 or 56 - can't exactly remember CJ axle width. I bought an install kit from Ruff Stuff Specialties- it has everything needed (perches, plates, u-bolts, shock mounts). You will have to relocate the perches, so welding is a must. Also an adapter flange is needed to fit drive shaft. I'm sure I'm leaving out some miscellaneous stuff but that's the gist of it. Overall, it's not a bolt in deal, but not too terribly bad either. Good luck

 

Can you give me a link to the install kit from Ruff Stuff? Thanks for the help

 

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88SS-31.html

 

here ya go

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88SS-31.html

 

Did you have to buy any of the add on or was the kit all you needed? Also how do you determine if it is 31 or 27 spline?

 

What model Ford is the 8.8 from?

Max

 

It came out of a 2000 Ford Explorer

 

It came out of a 2000 Ford Explorer

The '95-'01 Ford Explorer 8.8 is 31 spline & has a track width of about 58" or so. It has a 5 on 4.5" wheel bolt pattern & disc brakes. If the door VIN sticker on the donor Explorer has an axle code that is a letter & a number, it has Ford's limited slip. If the code is a 2 digit number, it is an open differential. Example, a D2 axle code is a limited slip 4.10 ratio axle. A code 42 is a 4.10 open differential.

Max

 

Okay thanks! All I really knew about it was that it was an open differential with 3.73 gears. But its good to know that I need parts for a 31 spline. But since you seem pretty knowledgeable do you happen to know or can you tell me how to determine the spline number of a Dana 30 wide track from axle from an 85 CJ7? Thanks again! :cheers2:

 

Also are you sure that its a 31 spline because the only ring and pinions that I can find are either 28 spline or 30 spline...I can't find any 31 spline ring and pinions...

 

Ring and pinion spline is totally different than axle spline. Axle spline is the splines on the axle shaft that mate with the spider gears. Pinion spline is the number of splines on the pinion shaft that mate with the driveshaft flange.

 

Also are you sure that its a 31 spline because the only ring and pinions that I can find are either 28 spline or 30 spline...I can't find any 31 spline ring and pinions...

Yes, all Explorer 8.8 axles are 31 spline.

Ring and pinion spline is totally different than axle spline. Axle spline is the splines on the axle shaft that mate with the spider gears. Pinion spline is the number of splines on the pinion shaft that mate with the driveshaft flange.

Exactly.

Your Dana 30 should be 27 spline.

Max

 

The Explorer 8.8 is 60.5" wide.
The narrow track AMC 20 is 50.5" wide.
That's a hefty 10" difference.
What's your plan for the rear driveshaft & C-clip eliminator ?

I think we're both correct. The number I posted is the Ford "track width" (or it's something close to that) and I believe the number you posted is the WMS to WMS (Wheel Mounting Surface) dimension.

Either way, the Explorer axle is wider. But maybe not 10" wider? The YJ Wrangler factory listed "track width" is in my FSM as being 59" wide. I have transplanted several 8.8 Explorer axles into YJ Wranglers and they are 5/8" narrower (on each side, 1-1/4" overall) than the stock Dana 35 YJ Wrangler axle.

I'm not arguing, just wondering if there's really 10" of difference in width.

I've never done the research for a head-to-head comparison between the two, and my old fart memory is likely to be off a little on the exact numbers.

Max

 

Correct, I listed wms-wms
The Explorer 8.8 is 10" wider than a narrow track CJ AMC 20 rear axle.
The NT AMC 20 is in 1976-1983 CJ5's and 1976-1981 CJ7's
1982-1986 CJ7's came with wide track axles.
You are correct on a near perfect fit when swapped into a YJ.
But the 8.8 isn't a great swap into a CJ, Let alone a NT CJ.

 

Correct, I listed wms-wms
The Explorer 8.8 is 10" wider than a narrow track CJ AMC 20 rear axle.
The NT AMC 20 is in 1976-1983 CJ5's and 1976-1981 CJ7's
1982-1986 CJ7's came with wide track axles.
You are correct on a near perfect fit when swapped into a YJ.
But the 8.8 isn't a great swap into a CJ, Let alone a NT CJ.

Good info that's good to know!

Aside from the width issue, the wheel bolt pattern difference adds to the lack of compatibility.

Now if you could find an old Lincoln Versailles 9 incher laying around, that would be worth looking at.

Max

 

Except that the 9 inch has one of the lowest pinions of any axle. It makes for worse driveline angles and will drag over everything in the rocks

 

Except that the 9 inch has one of the lowest pinions of any axle. It makes for worse driveline angles and will drag over everything in the rocks

That's an issue but thousands of rock crawlers use em, including me. The ford 9 is a sick axle and I'll use it over a 44 or 8.8 any day. If you're gomna use 35+ tires than the LP won't matter anyway

 

Except that the 9 inch has one of the lowest pinions of any axle. It makes for worse driveline angles and will drag over everything in the rocks

Unless you're on an unlimited budget, then there's this.

http://www.truehi9.com/

Max

 

For an unlimited budget, I'd have a high pinion 609 or portals...

 

that's my point right there.

around here $1000 bucks will buy you an old 3/4 chevy truck with d60s and tons of other parts, then you can scrap the rest of the truck and get half your money back. Of course if full widths are not your thing (which I'd rather full width) then you have to narrow the d 60's. Just saying If I'm gonna hash out $1000; I want more to show for it than just an axle out of an exploder............

So..... your first statement holds true, 8.8 not good choice. Better options out there :thumbsup:

I got mine for $300. The rear disc on a 14 bolt is pretty simple and cheap. I got the caliper brackets for $50. The rotors and calipers i got new from oriellys $29 a piece for rotors and $19 a piece for calipers. The rubber brake lines i cant recall. All the parts are for the front end off a 81-86 chevy truck.

 

Well I don't know who's paying $1,000 but it cost me $300 into my yj and $500 into te tj. If you start upgrading shafts I could see it but there is really no need to as I have yet to see a 8.8 break a shaft.

Also on a disc brake vehicle the caliper will hold the axle in in the event that you break a c-clip axle shaft.

 

Well I don't know who's paying $1,000 but it cost me $300 into my yj and $500 into te tj. If you start upgrading shafts I could see it but there is really no need to as I have yet to see a 8.8 break a shaft.

Also on a disc brake vehicle the caliper will hold the axle in in the event that you break a c-clip axle shaft.

As said earlier, The CJ bolt pattern is 5x5.5 and the $600 super88 kit comes with new axles drilled for the CJ pattern.
8.8 = $300-$400
Super88 kit = $600
Total = $900-$1,000

A TJ or YJ does not require the 88 kit because they are already 5x4.5... thus minus $600 for those applications :brickwall

 

Just so you guys know and I can stop getting ripped for using this axle around here it isn't easy to find any dana 44 or even dana 60 axle because we live about 30 from SMORR off road ranch and all the junk yards are constantly picked clean and if you do find one they are likely to charge you upwards of $500-$600 and most of the axles need re-geared anyway and in the local shops that cost $1200. I went with the 8.8 because it already has 4.10's and it was FREE!!! So all it will cost me is the price of the Super 88 kit. Thanks for finding out all the info before ripping me a new one... :thumbdown:

 

Just so you guys know and I can stop getting ripped for using this axle around here it isn't easy to find any dana 44 or even dana 60 axle because we live about 30 from SMORR off road ranch and all the junk yards are constantly picked clean and if you do find one they are likely to charge you upwards of $500-$600 and most of the axles need re-geared anyway and in the local shops that cost $1200.

I didn't see anyone ripping anyone a new one
Lot's to choose from for $100-$250 within 100 miles.
Or they do ship large items now a days.

 

The whole thing with the bolt pattern is easily fixed btw. As a previous poster mentioned moser will redrill them cheap. They charged me $100 to shorten and respline 2 axle shafts.

 

Yea I was gonna go that way but I'm afraid that one of the shafts is slightly bent so I'm just gonna buy the kit that comes with the shafts to be on the safe side but I still don't think its to expensive for a good axle because I will have spent about $700 on the axle all together and I'm okay with that.

 

I got a good used complete 8.8 from a salvage yard. Had the flanges and rotors re-drilled to 5x5.5 (Thanks Jim!), new studs, rotors and brakes for about $300 total. Been driving it around for a couple weeks now in my 7 with an LS1/NV4500 and it is the strongest most solid feeling axle I've ever had in a CJ with 400hp and 33s

 

I got a good used complete 8.8 from a salvage yard. Had the flanges and rotors re-drilled to 5x5.5 (Thanks Jim!), new studs, rotors and brakes for about $300 total. Been driving it around for a couple weeks now in my 7 with an LS1/NV4500 and it is the strongest most solid feeling axle I've ever had in a vehicle.

What year CJ did you put your 8.8 in? Any pics?

 

I'll say that it's an upgrade from the T20, But if that's the most solid feeling axle you've had, You must not have owned many vehicles.
You shouldn't have to think how your going to drive the Jeep to pamper an axle that has a great chance of failure with your drive-train combination.

It's the best axle I've had in a CJ with 400hp and 33s. Thanks for pointing that out. OP edited.

 

It's the best axle I've had in a CJ with 400hp and 33s.

Your pushing the limits of it.
The 8.8 has some common failures with twisting the axle tubes "plug welds"
C-clips and snapping axles when in the rocks.
The added horsepower & lower crawl ratio only adds to the stress.
The good thing is if the tubes are welded and you add the super88 kit, You should be okay.

 

What year CJ did you put your 8.8 in? Any pics?

Mine is a 97. I believe 97-01 are the years that will fit and they come with disc breaks which is a plus.

 

Your pushing the limits of it.
The 8.8 has some common failures with twisting the axle tubes "plug welds"
C-clips and snapping axles when in the rocks.
The added horsepower & lower crawl ratio only adds to the stress.
The good thing is if the tubes are welded and you add the super88 kit, You should be okay.

Tubes have already been welded. Super 88 is on the list, but a cut down front D44 is the next upgrade.

 

There ya go!
sounds like you have done some research.
I'd check on some chrome moly shafts and some ctm or like joints for the front D44 as they are the weaker point.
I'm also running a front D44 pushing 400 HP LT1 and have put some pretty good beatings to it without failure.
My intentional weak point are my lockouts.
lifetime warranty and only a 10 min. Trail repair.