If I could go back in time I would've invested in LubeLocker gaskets; no need to worry with RTV. I've used RTV alone and RTV + cork gaskets (just cause I didn't trust gasket alone).

 

I hate RTV, etc. It always oozes out and looks awful, then sooner or later you have to scrape it all off when it inevitably leaks.

I've had great results with the LubeLocker gaskets, and they're reusable to boot.

 

Use this: HERE

Done.

 

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X2. Here's a helpful thread. You can read the whole thing, or skip the drama and go right to the last post. It may help you in making a decision;

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/leaking-rear-diff-repair-question-4125937/

 

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/leaking-rear-diff-repair-question-4125937/

If I didn't already have the gaskets and RTV in hand, I'd probably give that a try.
I don't have any problems with leaks right now, and the differential cover looks good.

I've read that rubber LubeLocker gaskets don't mix with RTV due to the chemicals interacting with each other, but haven't seen anything about paper gaskets & RTV.

 

RTV Black is all you need.

 

I use Permatex “The Right Stuff”.

I have a hard time putting the covers back on as it is. Add a gasket in the mix!! What a mess!


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Either will work fine and is a matter of personal preference and what you have on hand. The diff cover is hard to screw up. But if you use RTV, let aside the cure time, somebody (possibly a future you) is going to hate you very much when they have to scrape it off. With that said, you can use a dab of RTV just to position the gasket so it sits just right and won't shift as you put the screws back in. Use a criss-cross pattern and don't over tighten.

 

With that said, you can use a dab of RTV just to position the gasket so it sits just right and won't shift as you put the screws back in. Use a criss-cross pattern and don't over tighten.

I'm probably going to try this first, seeing as I already have the gaskets and extra RTV.
Worst case scenario, I develop a leak, open it back up, clean up, reapply RTV and let it sit overnight.

 

I've always used the Permatex Ultra Black but have also used the Right Stuff before. Don't use any gasket since it's just an additional surface for leaks to develop.

About 4-5 years ago I spoke with a real knowledgeable Permatex rep who gave me some good tips on differential fluid changes. He said once the metal mating surfaces are clean then heat them up a little with a heat gun or hair drier. This will cause the oil to surface then you wipe it off with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol on a rag. Seemed to work pretty well plus gasket makers like to stick to warmer surfaces better than cold metal.

 

That Right Stuff is not cheap.

I've had real good results just making my own using Black RTV. The key is not to rush it.

1. Clean all surfaces (I'll have to try the heat gun trick Uniblurb mentioned)

2. Run a 1/8" bead around the surface. On bolt holes, I go on both sides

3. Let sit for about 30-45 min....or to where it's not tacky when you touch it.

4. Set in place. Install bolts...but don't tighten...just snug enough to push on the RTV a bit.

5. Let sit over night....then tighten.

 

The right stuff is more expensive, but since I don’t do it all the time, the cost is not that bad.

The main reason is that you can refill and use it right away. The other stuff all say to wait 24 hours before refilling. I can’t wait that long because my Jeep sticks partway out of the garage, and I have to move it out to close the door. Plus I just dont want to wait that long.

I do as others, put a bead around the cover, and a bead all around the bolt holes.

Then I carefully put it in place and then stick a bunch of Allen wrenches in the bolt holes to hold it in place. Then pull the Allen wrenches one at a time and replace with the real bolt.


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I must be doing something wrong, been using Gasgacinch and paper gaskets since the 70's and haven't had a problem.
Try making older Harley's drip free.

 

I used dry gaskets the last time, no leaks.

 

RTV alone. Never had an issue. Even when I’ve been in situations where I have to put fluid in almost immediately after R&R the cover. I wouldn’t use a paper gasket “with” RTV. ..... unless you like oil spots in your driveway haha as one poster allready said it increases the surface area for failure. Unnecessarily

 

I'm going against the grain to second/third the LubeLocker gaskets. Reusable, really high build quality, and about 100 times easier than TRS/Permatex. Well worth the money especially if you plan on doing the job a second, third, or fourth time. No leaks. So convenient to not have to wait for curing, and NOT HAVE TO SCRAPE RTV OFF BOTH MATING SURFACES! Got mine for the front and back (D30 and D44a) and can't go back. I also put a real gasket on the trans pan. I just hate working with RTV, mostly the scraping and cleaning that's required wherever it is used.

Whatever decision you make, you should be perfectly fine.

 

+1 for rubber gaskets

Replaced my damaged/ rusty 545RFE transmission pan, and did the filters at the same time. The Wix filter kit had a rubber gasket for the pan, and it was snug enough around the bolts to hold them all in place for the 'lift up' of the pan onto the transmission, which was nice :smile2: and no leaks at all :grin2:

Not sure that I could've even got a clean & dry enough surface for RTV to actually stick to, considering how much of the transmission fluid kept creeping out onto the mating surfaces :|

 

RTV works well, but if you wheel a lot and knock the cover it can cause a leak. We had one customer with an aftermarket cover come back twice for leaking after I had resealed it myself (done hundreds) and each time the cover had fresh rock rash on it. I cleaned everything up good, and took his cover to the grinder to get the bottom lip even with the case, it had a slight overhang before, and dug around and put a paper gasket on it.. That finally stopped his leak.

 

RTV works well, but if you wheel a lot and knock the cover it can cause a leak. We had one customer with an aftermarket cover come back twice for leaking after I had resealed it myself (done hundreds) and each time the cover had fresh rock rash on it. I cleaned everything up good, and took his cover to the grinder to get the bottom lip even with the case, it had a slight overhang before, and dug around and put a paper gasket on it..
That finally stopped his leak.

This is great advice period. Bc I've heard of covers getting compromised due to diffs dragging and snagging rocks.

 

So if you use a gasket, do you need any sealer at all?

40+ years ago when I worked in a gas station I remember having to scrape off old gasket and Dried up black goop.


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Lubelocker makes differential oil changes so much quicker. No more time scraping off old RTV to prep the surface again - the gasket pops off and is ready to be reused.

 

No sealer needed when using the LubeLocker gasket. In general, if you're using a gasket, let it do its job and don't add any sealant.

 

For those using the LubeLocker gasket on our 44a axles which one below is the correct one? Their website isn't very helpful and the shape of the gasket doesn't look correct unless you turned one of the photos a quarter turn. Thanks.

https://www.lubelocker.com/product-category/parts/

In looking at the photos closely it would be nice if they wouldn't skimp on the rubber on the gasket and it should make a full circle around the bolt hole. Granted you should only need to stop the fluid side from leaking gear oil but what about road salt getting to the bolts from the outside open area with no rubber on the gasket surface?

 

This is the one for the D44a. It is also called the D44HD. Tripped me up for a while and almost bought the wrong one

https://www.lubelocker.com/product/llr-d44hd/

Regarding the rubber on the gasket, you only need to seal on one side of the bolt. The gasket is quite thin for what it is (about 1.5mm thick I would guess?) and it gets squished pretty good between the cover and the diff housing when torqued to spec. I doubt that anything of consequence could get in there... Just my viewpoint, maybe someone here has had more experience with it? I've only had mine for less than a year.

Edit: I see you on this forum all the time, you seem to know everything about everything! Glad I could help you out for once! XD

 

xylene takes cured RTV right off. it wrinkles up and then peels/rolls off. no scraping required. it also cleans up uncured RTV really well from tools etc. right solvent for the job.

 

metal prep for LubeLocker,dry,light oil, scrub?
i got one and wanna do it sat...
torque?


edit
it came with no info and ive never pulled a cover b4. ive had diffs with drain plugs. it seems like the rubber would stick to really clean,dry metal??

 

metal prep for LubeLocker,dry,light oil, scrub?
i got one and wanna do it sat...
torque?

edit
it came with no info and ive never pulled a cover b4. ive had diffs with drain plugs. it seems like the rubber would stick to really clean,dry metal??

Clean all of the RTV off (I used a scraper but previous poster recommends xylene which I will have to try). Clean the mating surfaces with a rag with some brake cleaner on it. Then install the gasket and diff cover and hand tighten the bolts. In two passes, torque the bolts according to the pattern on the packaging (can't remember if it was actually there or if I just did a kind-of star pattern). First torque to 15 ft/lb, then to 20-25. I don't think you will have trouble with the rubber sticking. Make sure the surfaces are as clean as you can get them. Good luck!

Edit: You will see some torque specs for the LubeLocker say to torque to 35, which is way too much in my opinion. I would get them up to 20 or 25 and then check for leaks after a day or so, then after a few days to make sure you're not leaking. Keep in mind the housing is aluminum--DON'T STRIP OUT THE BOLTS OR THREADS!

 

Too bad Felpro doesnt have any diff gaskets in their Permadry line. I've been really impressed with those.

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zero info

thanks for mounting info/torq. my gasket came in a cardboard envelope, zero info.

 

Instructions are online

thanks for mounting info/torq. my gasket came in a cardboard envelope, zero info.

https://www.lubelocker.com/install/

SURFACE PREPARATION/INSPECTION
The first step and one of the most important!

Make sure that both surfaces are clean from any old silicone or other residues. Use your favorite cleaners and then make sure both surfaces are dry before installation. Inspect both surfaces for flatness; ensure they are free from any deep gouges. Light imperfections (slightly uneven paint/powder coat, light scratches, etc.) are OK, but deep imperfections need to be taken care of to ensure a tight, lasting seal.

INSTALLATION
Orient the gasket correctly and bolt it up!

Some bolt patterns only allow the gasket to be installed in one orientation, so if the gasket is not lining up, turn and flip the gasket until it does. Sometimes it helps to lay the gasket out on the cover to orient it correctly, then insert one or two bolts through the cover to help hold it in place while getting the cover lined up with the housing.

TORQUE
We always recommend tightening in two passes!

Our gaskets do not require any special torque values to achieve a great seal, but following our provided torque sequence will ensure even pressure across the entire gasket, giving you the best possible seal. If using an OEM cover and hardware, use OE torque specs. If using an aftermarket cover, please consult with the cover manufacturer for the correct torque value for their cover and hardware. We always recommend tightening in two passes. First, tighten to half of your final value, then on the second pass, tighten up to your final value.

 

and, thanks again, im shootin for sat aft...

 

I just put lube lockers in front and rear. No leaks yet.

 

I really appreciate all the input. I didn't expect too much on it.
I originally intended for the paper gasket and a little RTV as well, but I'll do plain gasket.

Was planning on doing it this weekend, but looks like I'll tackle it next one.

 

I really appreciate all the input. I didn't expect too much on it.

I originally intended for the paper gasket and a little RTV as well, but I'll do plain gasket.

Was planning on doing it this weekend, but looks like I'll tackle it next one.

Me too!

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