http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/why-your-steering-wanders-seems-loose-445430/

 

1. The proper caster angle not only causes the wheels to "self-center" around a corner, it also keeps the wheels tracking straight when they should. With only 2.x degrees, your CJ will wander side to side when trying to go straight. Keeping it between the white lines will be a chore, and you'll be constantly correcting the wheel. Highway driving could be dangerous.

2. Not familiar with the bushings. The easiest and most common fix is to use caster shims, which are placed between the spring and the spring perch (see pic below). If you go this route, use quality steel shims. Warrior makes some good ones. I would recommend 4 degree shims for your setup. That will put your castor right in the sweet spot.

Other ways to fix castor are to cut and rotate the C knuckles on the axle then re-weld, or relocate the spring perches at the proper angle. Both require some angle grinding and welding skills.

Hope this helps,

Matt

 

Thanks Matt. I've ordered the 4 degree shims from warrior!

 

This is a bushing that can adjust camber or caster. The alignment shop would have to put it in while they had it on the alignment rack. I'm not certain how they adjusted your camber, though......kind of makes me wonder how good of a job they actually did.

Travis

 

Good catch Travis... They camber was 1.3 (l) and 1.0 (right) which was apparently within specs, and did not change with their adjustment.

This is a bushing that can adjust camber or caster. The alignment shop would have to put it in while they had it on the alignment rack. I'm not certain how they adjusted your camber, though......kind of makes me wonder how good of a job they actually did.
View attachment 1790305

Travis

 

Those look like they would alter one or the other, but neither correctly. As Matt said, shims are what you need. Not sure on the 81's, though it's probably the same, but 82 and up calls for 5-7 +degrees of caster. It doesn't have to be exact, 4 may not give you issues but 2 degrees is getting pretty well out of range for good steering.
I agree, it sounds like that shop may be a bit out of touch. Maybe they're used to sports cars!

 

Actually those bushings work well, but I'm fairly certain they don't make them for CJ's axles. That bushing is for a Ford TTB.

I know that it is possible to correct camber on a straight axle such as on a CJ, but I'm guessing it wasn't really done on the OP's CJ. Toe and steering wheel is about all any shop is going to do, and unless it's really out of whack, camber is never usually far enough out to worry about tire wear.

Travis

 

Install the fat side of the shim towards the front of your CJ.

Matt

 

Ok, i have a question. We know that longer shackles decrease caster, what about making longer spring mounts for the other end of the spring? That would cause the axle to rotate back a little and increase caster angle. What would be the negative effect of doing this?

 

Not a bad idea. I never considered that.

I suppose it could work, but then you're kinda defeating one of the purpose of the lift, which is to increase ground clearance under the frame. The longer fixed hangers could drag and hang up on obstacles.

Matt

 

I've seen the fixed mount extended as you asked. It will increase caster as well as give you some lift. Same as with a longer shackle... 1 inch of extension equates to about half an inch of lift (so if you used a 1 inch longer shackle and a 1 inch longer spring mount, it should give you 1 inch of lift total). You do need to make the extended mounts out of heavy duty material. A longer mount gives the springs/axle more leverage to bend the mount (or tear it off the frame).

Using shims or even rotating the "C"s on the tubes is probably an easier method.

 

Process to insert the Shims

Okay, I know this is a silly question but once the shims arrive, do i have to jack the spring to hold it in place, or can I remove the clamps without doing anything to support the spring?

 

Put the frame on jack stands high enough to get the wheels off the ground, then use a your floor jack to support the weight of the axle at the pumpkin.

Then separate the springs from the front shackles and remove the u-bolts and plates. Install the shims, and put everything back together.

It took me about 2 hours with a few beer breaks in-between.

Matt

 

Put the frame on jack stands high enough to get the wheels off the ground, then use a your floor jack to support the weight of the axle at the pumpkin.

Then separate the springs from the front shackles and remove the u-bolts and plates. Install the shims, and put everything back together.

It took me about 2 hours with a few beer breaks in-between.

Matt

Don't forget to use new U-Bolts.

It's never a good idea to reuse U-Bolts.

 

Now I have another question. Do the shims have the tit on the other side to fit into the hole on the axle? It looks like the shim would cover the one on the spring. Do the shims have to be welded to the perch?

 

Notice the hole in the shim and the flat spot machined into it. You remove the center pin on the spring and re-install it with the shim as part of the leaf pack. You're probably going to need longer centering pins. NAPA has them or can get them. Before removing the pin clamp the leaves together with a c-clamp to keep it all assembled.

 

Ahh. Ok thanks. Couldn't notice there was a hole in it. On the day my front axle was made, the QC guy must have been out sick. One side is .5+° and the other is 2+ °. That's with new springs etc. Also, the perches are 1/2" too wide and the shackles lean. I see plenty of axles for sale around here, so it maybe easier to just swap it.

 

Newbie question. Just replaced front springs with OEM stock height. Unfortunately, my new greaseable shackles (advertised as factory length) were 3/4" longer. I understand this equals a 3/8 inch lift at front shackle. This will effect caster? Disappointed, but only shackles I had (originals damaged by PO). Worth replacing with OEM shackles or no worries? Not driveable yet, so have no steering comparisons.

 

JeepdaddyRC,

A 3/4" longer shackle isn't going to change caster, much.

Does your wheel return to center by itself after you round a corner, or do you have to help it? Does is track straight, without constant correction? If yes on both, then I wouldn't worry about it.

Matt

 

CJ& camber adjustment

I have the same problem with my 1986 CJ7. if I decided to go with the bushings which one should I buy? Moog advertise 4 type, K932, 934, 935 & 936 which have different degrees of adjustment +-. does anyone knows which one would let me achieve the 4 to 6 degree camber?

Thanks for the help.

 

I have the same problem with my 1986 CJ7. if I decided to go with the bushings which one should I buy? Moog advertise 4 type, K932, 934, 935 & 936 which have different degrees of adjustment +-. does anyone knows which one would let me achieve the 4 to 6 degree camber?

Thanks for the help.

Stay away from the bushings, they don't allow you to properly adjust the laod on your ball joints which is necessary. Camber shims at the spindle work well for adjusting camber. Steel tapered shims(stay away from aluminum) allow you to adjust either or both pinion angle and caster. Long shackles will create more problems than they solve. 3/8" extra length won't hurt anything. K932 is a stock adjusting sleeve.