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Body Mount - removal, repair, install

16K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  keith460  
#1 ·
I have successfully avoided ANY body work other then that which can be 'fixed' with a 2# sledge.

NOT ONE body mount have I had to replace or deal with in over 9 CJ's going back to my first vehicle / CJ - A 1969 Flat Head 4 cyl CJ-5.

39 years of continuous ownership of Jeeps and not once was I reasonably convinced to do anything about those hokey pucks.

And yes, I did have one 'emergency' CJ-5 that the PO drilled-out and used real hockey pucks - smoooooth ride that one.

So, with heavy heart and sober mind (don't blame me, my liver and I are not on speaking terms...), I undertake to replace all 9 on my 1984 CJ-7.

This is from https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ad...me-up-1363422/ and embodies my great fear:
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See those words - patch, weld, nut cage - ALL of that scares me - especially that last bit.

(SIDE NOTE: By the way, this guys, acgcoug, is either a master craftsman or crazy - you should read his entire rebuild page - WOW! When you get done, you'll be convinced he can fix anything with a grinder, some flakes of rust, four baby wipes and about $10k - a miracle worker.)

I've taken the sage advice of Keith (and others) and went rubber (over poly) and stainless steel with this kit:
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It's pricey and not completely original (SS thick fender washers are tough to source I guess) but otherwise seems just fine.

So, now the reason for this wind-bag post - how to get these do-whatever-you-can-not-to-snap-off-bolts out.

Quick pic of my existing mounts and the corresponding schematic from the manual so you can see the condition there in:
Image
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I got two on the passenger side off pretty easy (#2 and #3).

But the other's don't seem to be willing to meet their fate. These appear to be all original without salt problems (thanks California!)

Because of the way the steel sleeve goes around the bolts, shooting it with WD-40 is impossible.

Anybody have any good strategies. I was thinking of taking a sharp sacrificial chisel to the rubber to get it removed then use a MAP torch to heat up the bolt and see if that helps.

Any ideas?
 
#3 ·
Perhaps I wasn't clear.

I would prefer not to hack and dissect my way through this problem.

Something more akin to figuring out how to best remove the bolts sans the need to use the left over doughnut box as a graveyard of rubber and rust.

But that's just me.....
 
#4 ·
Tighten and then untighten.

Apply some WD40 anyway
 
#5 ·
I would drill a small hole in the box holding the threaded "nut" park
Insert the nozzle of some Kroil or PB Blaster and squirt/soak it in there and let it sit a few days.
Maybe a squirt each day.

This allows gravity to help draw the penetrating oil through the rusted parts.

There are some home recipes to make your own penetrating oil but I forget what they are right now.
 
#6 ·
I would drill a small hole in the box holding the threaded "nut" park
Insert the nozzle of some Kroil or PB Blaster and squirt/soak it in there and let it sit a few days.
Maybe a squirt each day.

This allows gravity to help draw the penetrating oil through the rusted parts.

There are some home recipes to make your own penetrating oil but I forget what they are right now.
John, I was thinking that exact thing as a last resort. Now that you've put it out there, I'm all in - makes perfect sense.

Would you do that from the interior of the Tub, locating the approximate location of the nut cage (love saying that....) then squirt something in or were you thiniking, from below the Jeep, through the rubber, through the sleeve the shoot in that way (slightly up, toward where the bolt hits the nut?

Or, through the side of the nut cage?

Here's a shot of one that won't budge:
Image
 
#13 ·
Top would be best but water can get in later.
Side would be my next suggestion.

I don't like drilling through rubber.

I read someplace that AMC put thread locker on all their bolts and a little heat would melt it to make it easy to come out.
John, I down to just the bumper one and the one directly above the muffler.

About to start putting stuff back together.

Any idea about the torque for these bolts?

Thanks,
Patrick
 
#15 ·
Bookmarking this one... it amazes me how much you need to know about every little part to do things right. Informative thread. My 75’ was in a pretty bad wreck back in November and I’m working through why my tub is slanting to the driver rear and I’m starting to wonder if some of the body mounts broke and the tub shifted.

Can the body mounts be replaced one by one with the tub on the frame or does the tub need to come off to replace these? I was hoping I could jack the tub up in the location of each mount while I swap any damaged ones out.


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#18 ·
Bookmarking this one... it amazes me how much you need to know about every little part to do things right. Informative thread. My 75' was in a pretty bad wreck back in November and I'm working through why my tub is slanting to the driver rear and I'm starting to wonder if some of the body mounts broke and the tub shifted.

Can the body mounts be replaced one by one with the tub on the frame or does the tub need to come off to replace these? I was hoping I could jack the tub up in the location of each mount while I swap any damaged ones out.

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Not really one at a time. You can do it a side at a time (passenger / driver's side).

The problem is the rubber mount that is the top part has to be lifted out of the frame body mount location - not just slide out like it was a squished doughnut.

This is the #2 Toeboard Mount:
Image
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So, in the example above, you would need to lift the body away from the frame by 1-7/8" to get it out.

NOT something you can do without bending your body in the process.
 
#16 ·
Pottsy,

When I replaced my body mounts, I removed all the bolts on one side, then I jacked up the entire side of the tub using a piece of 4"x4" wood horizontally under the tub to spread the weight out. The whole job was easy and only took a few hours. But then, I didn't have to fight any stubborn bolts.

Matt
 
#17 ·
Perfect. That's what I was hoping. Thanks Matt.

Pottsy,

When I replaced my body mounts, I removed all the bolts on one side, then I jacked up the entire side of the tub using a piece of 4"x4" wood horizontally under the tub to spread the weight out. The whole job was easy and only took a few hours. But then, I didn't have to fight any stubborn bolts.

Matt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
There is a rubber body bushing on mount #5 but none for the Support Bracket that uses the same mount. The other end of that Support Bracket bolts directly to the bottom of a channel on the Rear Floor Pan. Except one issue with the Repli-tubs (MD Juan) body, there's no captivated nut on the channel of the Rear Floor Pan to bolt to. Another mistake by them.

Bottom of my Repl-tub: