You have 2 choices due to emissions laws.

1. Use the original carb, or an exact replacement, and all of the original emissions equipment.

2. Go with a smog approved FI kit, which would eliminate much of the emissions stuff, but not all of it.

Wish I had better news for you.

Matt

 

You have 2 choices due to emissions laws.

1. Use the original carb, or an exact replacement, and all of the original emissions equipment.

2. Go with a smog approved FI kit, which would eliminate much of the emissions stuff, but not all of it.

Wish I had better news for you.

Matt

Any recommendations on a good but not terribly expensive FI kit? I was talking to my local 4 Wheel Parts store and they said installing a FI kit can be tricky and they recommended that since i've never done it before that i bring the jeep in and have them install the kit.

If possible id perfer to do it myself, what would you recommend?

 

The OEM, Carter BBD type carb is the ONLY one legal here.
There's nut'n wrong with the Carter.
Why do you want to change it, just because of internet BS?
Good info here-
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

LG

 

I wanted to change it because i had read online is several different places that it will cut out quite a bit while on the trail if you go up or down a steep enough grade and that they have a lot of problems with no idling. I have no personal experience with them other than not being able to get the dang thing to idle.

The website you linked i've been using a ton and has helped me a bunch so far but i've tried everything it recommends as far as no idle.

I suspected that i would have to use the OEM carburetor due to emissions. I have a local friend coming over tomorrow that is going to see if he can get it to idle.

 

Ive done some more research on a FI kit. Ive seen in several places that a Howell FI kit is a good way to go or the 86 CJ-7. Has anyone installed one of these before? how difficult is the install? I read that it can be done in several hours.

 

I installed one, but it is no way a few hours. It is very straight forward and the install is well documented. There are several good online write ups too. I am pretty anal and spent a fair amount of time on the electrical. Also installed a kill switch on the fuel pump. Budget a weekend and take your time. Best mod I've done to the jeep. Starts and runs amazing.

 

With your idle issue. Make sure you show the air-bleed mod in that link, to your friend. I did this mod to mine and never an issue since.
One thing to think about-NONE of the SMOG stuff on our Jeep's has been made in decades, and can be a major PITA to locate. I've been down that road a few times.
I strongly urge you to locate a copy of the REAL Factory Service manual(FSM)MR-252. The Chilton and Haynes just don't go into the detail the FSM does.
Truth be told-The Carter BBD Carb is a very good choice for our 6cly Jeep. With that said, I do have a fully rebuilt one sitting on the self, just in case.
Is this CJ a CA. model or 49 state version? Different smog level and emission components.
LG

 

Which air mod are you referring to? I can't seem to find it in that link that was posted

 

Did you clean and/or drill out the idle tubes? If not, simple fix can be done with carb on. Common problems with dirty gas and old carb. I bet you can save a boatload of time and money and get that BBD to idle.

Not sure your level of BBD experience, did you check the obvious? - engine timing, distributor advance connected to ported vs manifold vacuum, choke pull off, throttle plate opening, fast idle and curb idle set screws, worn throttle shaft at housing (aka vacuum leak), mixture screws? Yes many bash the OEM Carter BBD. But you don't have many options here.

I fought my Carter BBD, bashed and and was ready to toss it. Found out both my intake manifold and carb base were loose. Holy vacuum leak! Runs like a champ and certainly never the fault of the BBD.

 

Did you clean and/or drill out the idle tubes? If not, simple fix can be done with carb on. Common problems with dirty gas and old carb. I bet you can save a boatload of time and money and get that BBD to idle.

Not sure your level of BBD experience, did you check the obvious? - engine timing, distributor advance connected to ported vs manifold vacuum, choke pull off, throttle plate opening, fast idle and curb idle set screws, worn throttle shaft at housing (aka vacuum leak), mixture screws? Yes many bash the OEM Carter BBD. But you don't have many options here.

I fought my Carter BBD, bashed and and was ready to toss it. Found out both my intake manifold and carb base were loose. Holy vacuum leak! Runs like a champ and certainly never the fault of the BBD.

Yeah i've completely rebuilt the carb. It will turn over but not idle. When applying the throttle the carb runs fine as well as the rest of the engine but as soon as you let off the throttle the engine dies.

 

Not idling could be the mixture screw needs adjusting, an air leak or clogged idle tubes or float level. The carb is pretty good, usually they just need a proper service kit and clean and fixing of air leaks to get running. If you can find an original air cleaner as well and plumb it in, it is one of the best set ups on the 258.

 

Im thinking its that the mixture screws need adjusting

I completely removed the venturi assembly and boiled it in water for 30 minutes or so then let it sit in carb cleaner(the gallon stuff you use when rebuilding a carb) for a good 18-20 hours. Just re-installed the venturi assembly today but haven't had a chance to try it out.

I'm pretty sure i've replaced all the cracked vacuum lines but i will double check that there isn't any others.

As far as the air cleaner goes, im pretty sure it's still the stock OEM air cleaner.

 

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Old dried out cracked vacuum hoses, loose carb or intake manifold?

 

I believe LG is referring to the - Clogged Idle Tubes - fix on that page. It is very common for the Carter BBD w/Stepper Motor to experience clogged idle tubes that can be remedied by removing them and drilling them out to .032".

I did this back in the 90's, but did not drill them out, an it made a world of difference on how well the engine idled. Simply removing the idle tubes and cleaning them out cured my constant engine stalling at lights and stop signs and stumbling when pulling away.

 

Just did this mod last night and i still have a rough idle, I have gotten the jeep to idle, but it's at a higher RPM than what i believe it should be idling at.

I also did a "propane test" where i release some propane around different parts of the engine where there is suction tubing to see if there is a suction leak but i couldn't find anything.

 

i messed with my Carter BBD for the last 2 years and just got a Weber 32/36 - immediately better ride. night and day. carter is now on the shelf

 

Unfortunately, the state of California says that option is not legal there.

 

Check your idle pick up tubes in the Venturi cluster. They pick up a piece of sand and now you won't idle. Remove the butterfly and screws carefully to remove the cluster and check the tubes for clogs Sure enough mine had a piece of sand in one. Lucky for you Carter bbd's are easy to find in junk yards. I drilled my tubes out to .032". It runs a little rich, but it idles like a purring fat and happy kitten. I Nuttered as well, then grounded my head separate from engine block.

Edit to add. Posted before reading all posts.

Your stepper motor may be the problem now. I disengaged mine and set it at half way in.

 

Check your idle pick up tubes in the Venturi cluster. They pick up a piece of sand and now you won't idle. Remove the butterfly and screws carefully to remove the cluster and check the tubes for clogs Sure enough mine had a piece of sand in one. Lucky for you Carter bbd's are easy to find in junk yards. I drilled my tubes out to .032". It runs a little rich, but it idles like a purring fat and happy kitten. I Nuttered as well, then grounded my head separate from engine block.

Edit to add. Posted before reading all posts.

Your stepper motor may be the problem now. I disengaged mine and set it at half way in.

Do you know if they test that the stepper motor is working during the SMOG test? if not how did you go about setting where it is set at?

Ive definatley thought about doing a nutter bypass but i was not sure if it would pass SMOG with this mod done on the engine. Ive also already (painstakingly) drilled the tubes out to .032" but it didn't really seem to have a difference.

Any recommendations on where to find a new or working stepper motor if it does need to working to pass SMOG?

 

I had the same issue. When I drilled the idle tubes it fixed the rough idle issue.

 

Drilled them out and had no change in the idle.

 

Have you adjusted the mixture screws yet? That is the first step in setting up the idle

 

Ive tired but it does not affect the idle because of the emissions stuff(metering pin, O2 sensor, computer)

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-nutter-bypass-522262/

Here is the how to nutter bypass

 

Couple questions about the nutter that i couldn't find answers to in the several posts about it i found.

Distributor vacuum line - Do i disconnect and plug this line AT the distributor or at the other end of the tube by the carb?

Vacuum line reconnection - After the nutter is complete do i re-place the vacuum lines back to how they were before(remove the plug and added 'T' and re-connect all lines to their original spot) or leave them in this modified state? Ive seen posts say to put them back how they were but i've seen others that dont mention it at all.

 

I also made a dedicated ground to the head. I ran a brass bolt through the fender well, I ran my battery negative to that bolt. I ran the head to the bolt. Dramtically increased spark, and got a better running engine. Easy to do and worth it.

 

Can you expand on what you grounded? Pictures would help lots!

 

I have a freshly rebuilt OEM carb that works perfectly (pretty sure the stepper motor still works) and was recently used to clear CA smog. I'm in the process of swapping my engine and moved to Oregon so don't have CA smog issues to worry about any more. I also have a nearly new catalytic converter that I won't be using as well. I passed smog in San Diego with flying colors a few months ago and my 258 idled and ran perfectly.

Happy to make this carb, cat, oxy sensor, computer, and any/all of the smog stuff available to you if you want it. Other than the FI conversions (spendy) this is what we're stuck with in CA.

 

In addition to Keith's post, the third factory ground is from the battery to the firewall.

Matt

 

In addition to Keith's post, the third factory ground is from the battery to the firewall.

Matt

Yep, you need that or none of the instruments, lights, tail lamps will work.

This is the area where one gets to do dedicated ground system to vital areas of the Jeep CJ. Plenty of post on this subject if you search.