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Speedometer Not Working After TC Swap

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I didn't actually measure it but I have checked the pressure at the rail every time it's died by pressing the shraeder valve (I think that's what it's called). Every time the gas squirts up 6 to 8 inches when pressed.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
OK, I'm still baffled as to exactly what my prblem is and don't want to throw money at it.

I haven't gone for a drive because I don't want the jeep to die on the side of the road but i have been starting the jeep and letting it run in the driveway every couple of days.

The jeep starts hard (crank allot to get it going) and sometimes won't start at all. It throws no codes (only 12,55) when it won't start.

I went out to try and start it last night and the same thing - crank forever, started, then stalled after 5 minutes. It then would not start again. I left it because I'm frustrated. I went back out this morning and tried and it rumbled a little but then just back to pure engine roll. I decided to check the fuel rail and when I pressed the valve - nothing. I crawled underneath and wiggled the fuel filter and 2 lines on it, back in the jeep, turned the key and wham, the jeep started. I let it run for about 10 minutes and it didn't stall.

So, is it the fuel line, fuel filter, fuel pump etc.?

Also, will the crank sensor shut off fuel to the rail when it acts up?
 
#24 ·
Fuel filter probably wouldn't hurt, particularly on a 93. It's up near the body on the opposite side from the exhaust (driver's side), forward of the tank.

Auto parts stores down here in the states have loaner pressure gauges, I'd see how much pressure there actually is at the schrader valve...might give you a better idea of the health of the fuel delivery system.

Another thing to think of is battery and cables. Is there a lot of corrosion? I've found that really goofy things can crop up if you have a bad connection to the battery.
 
#25 ·
You really need to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and monitor the pressure. See if it varies when the motor dies. Either rent or buy one. You don't want to be throwing parts at it, so your going to need the correct tools to troubleshoot.

Check the battery cables as well... It's easy. Take your DVM and put it on AC. With it running, check for AC in the system (black negative, red positive still) and probe around. If you find AC, loose/dirty connections will induce AC as well as an alternator going out.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited by Moderator)
OK, after a few weeks of frustration, I finally have fixed my problem. It was indeed a fuel delivery problem.

I thought it was the pump because I couldn't hear it spin up during initial ignition. So I cut a hole in the floor above the tank to access the canister, and removed the whole unit. I dismantled the canister, removed the fuel pump, and tested it on a battery. To my surprise it tested fine.

So I started testing the wiring. Everything tested fine at the harness and from the tank side of the harness to the canister. I cut some of the wiring and it was either black or rusted INSIDE the insulation. Water must have entered through the harness.

I hardwired from the harness to the canister with all new wires and everything has been working perfectly for over a month now.

During testing, the circuit showed good continuity but obviously would not carry a consistent 12v for the fuel pump.

A real pain in the *** to trouble shoot but finally fixed.

Thank you all for your help.
 
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BliZZard911
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