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BLtheP

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've been having some idling issues on my 94 4.0 YJ for a while now, and frankly I am tired of them. When I crank the Jeep up, it usually idles a little rough. Nothing terrible, but it vibrates the Jeep a bit and you can definitely feel it. My RPM is usually 1500 when it first starts up, then it drops to 800 for a few seconds, and then 500-600ish.

As it warms up, the idle is just slightly choppy. It kind of sounds like it's hiccuping. If I want to drive, I can and it'll drive perfectly fine.

Now, about my idle RPM. If I've been sitting for a minute or so and I back out of say a parking spot in reverse..when I come to a stop to put it in first gear to start moving forward, as I come to a stop in reverse, the rpm will sometimes drop to 200 or so when I push the clutch in and am shifting from reverse to first. It does not do this every time, but I have definitely seen this more times than I can count on my hand.

Another instance is when I'm cruising down the road, I have to come to a stop, and I push the clutch in and go to neutral. Initially the idle goes to around 700-800 RPM, and then as I slow down it'll drop more. Sometimes it'll drop to 300, sometimes 500, sometimes 500 and then when I'm fully stopped, 300. There's really no predicting. When it's bogging way down at 300, it feels like it's about to stall. It has never stalled, and I've been having this problem since November.

So, these are the things I have done so far to fix this, and have so far pretty much all been failed attempts. The problem still persists fully.

My OEM Vehicle Speed Sensor was leaking at the electrical plug. It had ATF from the transfer case inside the electrical connector. I cleaned this with electronic cleaner a few days ago. My connector is dirty again, but I'm not sure how quickly that happened so I didn't really have a long enough time to get good results from the cleanse. I have a buddy with a 97 TJ (same speed sensor as the YJ) that I'm going to borrow from and see if that makes any difference. I'm hopeful but not optimistic.

I am on a new tune-up. I have Autolite Iridium XP spark plugs, Mopar ignition wires, Mopar cap, Mopar rotor, and Mopar ignition coil. A few weeks ago I installed this tune-up as a replacement for my previous Firepower DUI Ignition kit with a Screamin' Demon coil, which had the plugs gapped at .065". This idle problem has existed since before either of these tune-ups were installed. Neither installation made a difference at all.

I have a 6 month old NTK O2 sensor. NTK is the OEM brand, so I feel that it should be working fine. Could be faulty of course, I don't know.

I have messed with the IAC more than enough times and it has produced no results. First, I cleaned my OEM IAC and throttle body with throttle body cleaner. That made no difference. Next, I replaced my OEM IAC with a BWD IAC from O'Reilly. Also made no difference. Thinking maybe I got a faulty sensor from O'Reilly (which happens pretty frequently), I scavenged out a Mopar IAC. Still, no difference.

I have a new BWD TPS from O'Reilly. I am skeptical of it, but I tested it and the voltage range seems smooth so I feel that my problem doesn't lie here. The voltage goes from lower than my tester can count at idle to 3.80 volts at Wide Open Throttle. The FSM states that it needs to be below 4.80 at WOT, so I'm not too worried about that. The smooth voltage range across the accelerator makes me think it's fine.

When I was doing my coolant system flush and 195Âş thermostat a few weeks ago, I installed an Echlin brand coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing. Being that it's a parts store brand part, I am a little skeptical of it as well, but I notice 0 behavior differences after installation so I'm thinking it must be fine.

I have a new battery, which is working fine daily.

I have a new non-cracked exhaust manifold.

I have 0 vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks give high idle rather than low anyways, but just feel the need to mention it since usually somebody says check vacuum.

I have reset the computer into adaptive learning mode several times, with the same results each time. Nothing has fixed my problem yet.

So, what am I up against? The only things I can think of are:

-The speed sensor just gets dirty with ATF too quickly to be able to get a good reading to ever behave correctly before it gets dirty and starts giving bad readings again. I am iffy on this since my speedometer works perfect and always has. Testing my friend's speed sensor will hopefully clear some of my curiosity.

-The TPS from O'Reilly is bad even though it seems okay by test

-The MAP sensor is faulty. I've tested it and I think it's okay but I'm not too sure.

-Maybe (unlikely) the Coolant temp sensor is faulty, but I really doubt it.

-I might need a new intake air temp sensor, haven't really looked into the likelihood of that much.

-and Lastly, maybe I need another O2 sensor from NTK.

My guess is the computer doesn't just "forget" how to run right, does it? I mean, 3 years ago this wasn't a problem at all when I bought it and over time this idle issue became worse. I figure surely it's a sensor problem and not the computer needing replacement. I sure hope so anyways.

So, I am VERY tired of troubleshooting this and throwing parts at it, and want this fixed. If any of you have any ideas, please post them up. Thanks. I want my properly running Jeep back.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Beats me. :laugh:

But @Que89YJ would know or at least guide you to find the problem without replacing un-necessary parts.
He's damn good.
I hope he catches this. I've seen his advice on other posts and was hoping he would comment here. I'm really tired of throwing parts at it and I don't want to throw so many parts without making changes that I come to the realization that I might need a new PCM, if that's really a likely outcome? I dunno, I just really want my Jeep back to normal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just parroting something I've seen in hundreds of other threads. You said you put in Autolite Iridium XP spark plugs. Countless reports of weird idle behavior on Iridium plugs. Standard Copper plugs are what is recommended. Doesn't sound like this is the cause, but may be exacerbating the problem.

Beyond that, pull CEL codes, and probably do the fuel pressure test while you wait for Que.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Start by checking fault codes and posting, follow the directions in the thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/how-check-fault-codes-1257145/

Do you have a meter and know how to use it?
No codes. Only ever had one which was the TPS out of range but after getting a new one, I tested each of them and I'm back on the OEM TPS as of yesterday.

Yes, I can test with my meter and since posting this, have tested the MAP (also replaced the MAP with an OEM Mopar MAP, dumb decision that I tested afterwards because it was fine). So yes, I can test and have tested most of my sensors. Haven't tested the O2, which is an OEM NTK replacement.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Just parroting something I've seen in hundreds of other threads. You said you put in Autolite Iridium XP spark plugs. Countless reports of weird idle behavior on Iridium plugs. Standard Copper plugs are what is recommended. Doesn't sound like this is the cause, but may be exacerbating the problem.

Beyond that, pull CEL codes, and probably do the fuel pressure test while you wait for Que.
It's not the plugs. It did this on old Champion coppers, new Champion coppers, new Autolite Platinum AP985, and new Autolite Iridium XP. Fuel pressure is 31, 39 with hose removed (perfect).

No codes.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
4.0 Low Idle RPM & Slightly Rough Idle

Check out my IAC housing on the throttle body. I've cleaned the IAC and replaced as I mentioned in my original post, but I haven't done much other than let it idle and spray throttle body cleaner into the idle air passage. Does this look like it could be a culprit? I'm going to clean it soon anyways, I just haven't had time lately.

Image
 
Check out my IAC housing on the throttle body. I've cleaned the IAC and replaced as I mentioned in my original post, but I haven't done much other than let it idle and spray throttle body cleaner into the idle air passage. Does this look like it could be a culprit? I'm going to clean it soon anyways, I just haven't had time lately.
Low idle is always iac. It can't be anything else so clean the throttle body. The 65k plug gap seems too big even with a hotter coil. .45k is about what the hei setup runs. If you have a miss then you have 2 likely issues. A valve issue or a distributor issue. Run a compression test. Good YouTube vids on it. Check the distributor shaft for slop.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I have .035 gap now. The .065 gap was when I had the Firepower DUI ignition setup. It was a scam & waste of money, so I reverted to Autolites and all new Mopar OEM rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, and ignition coil. I'll check out the distributor and valve stuff when I get the chance. Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Low idle is always iac. It can't be anything else so clean the throttle body. The 65k plug gap seems too big even with a hotter coil. .45k is about what the hei setup runs. If you have a miss then you have 2 likely issues. A valve issue or a distributor issue. Run a compression test. Good YouTube vids on it. Check the distributor shaft for slop.
Okay, I have some updates. As per your advice, I have taken the throttle body off and cleaned it out completely. Took off the little IAC housing on the side of the throttle body and scrubbed it with throttle body cleaner and everything. Cleaned the IAC one more time. The idle is still not right. Sometimes it might idle at 800 for a bit, sometimes it might idle down at 400. It is definitely not IAC related.

Since we last posted, I have also swapped PCM just to make sure that the PCM wasn't just controlling the idle incorrectly. It acts 100% the same as it did before. Can't remember if I posted about changing the MAP already but I did. I am officially stumped.

So, to recap:
Sensors I haven't changed are the intake are temperature sensor, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and the speed sensor.

Sensors I have changed: IAC (twice), O2 (used an NTK), coolant temp sensor (Echlin from Napa), TPS (BWD from O'Reilly), MAP (OEM GM from eBay).

The IAC seems to function properly. For some reason that I can't figure out, the computer is controlling the IAC just fine but it's forcing it to move to the position where it's not idling high enough. Why that is, I have no clue.

The original reason I got my new TPS is that the computer generated code 24: "throttle position circuit out of range". So, thinking my TPS was bad, I got the BWD unit from O'Reilly. Now, since then, I've tested both the replacement and the OE sensor. They both read right at the same. Steady voltage sweep throughout the range, and they max out around 3.8/3.7 volts at WOT. All the FSM states is "should be steadily increasing voltage throughout the range and WOT should be less than 4.8 volts." Well, I'm less than 4.8 volts but is 3.8 volts too low?

I've swapped back and forth between the two TPS sensors that I own and I notice no differences in performance, and the code hasn't ever come back on since. Not with either computer.

I'm so ready to have this back to normal.
 
If you were closer I'd like to scope the ignition and see if that could lead us to some better clues. Could your timing chain have some play which is causing some mis-timing at idle? Might be worth checking.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I don't know. It's an 8 year old reman Jasper 4.0. Built in 2008. It was used rarely from 08-13, I bought it 13 and have driven it nearly every day since. No timing chain ticking noise, that I can hear. Anyways, the idle is so odd that I don't think it's something like an internal engine issue. I could be wrong, it just doesn't seem likely.

Here's my reasoning: I drive down the road at 50 mph. I come to a stop, I'm idling at 700. Great. I start driving, and I come to a stop a mile later. This time I'm idling at 300. That just really doesn't seem like something a physical engine problem would cause. It seems as if I had a bad timing chain or anything else like that, the problem would be a lot more frequent at the same times, and would be more consistent, and not so unpredictable like it is. Seems like if it were the timing chain or something, it would idle at a flat 300 all the time, or 400, etc.

I guess my point is that it seems that if the computer is feeling like idling at 800, it will. If it wants to do 300, it will. It does whatever it wants with no problem doing it until some sort of input from something screws it up. For some reason it may want to idle at 700, but a sensor or some sort is bringing it down, at certain times. I haven't figured out which times those are yet.
 
Seems reasonable. How many miles do you think are on the engine?

Do you have AC on the Jeep? When AC is on, it sends the computer a signal to increase RPM at idle. Any chance the signal is not being sent and the AC compressor is pulling the idle down? ...searching for ideas here....
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Roughly 33,000 miles on the engine. It has A/C, but the compressor went bad so I don't use it. It started squealing and locking up my belt one day so I got the non-A/C belt to bypass the compressor completely. Only has a belt around the power steering, crankshaft, water pump, alternator, and that little idler near the water pump and thermostat.

It really is a mind boggler trying to figure out what could be possibly this problem.
 
Are you sure your catalytic converter isn't plugged up? My 4.0L would bog down after coming to stop from cruising speeds. It would even die occasionally. Finally replaced it.

Just a thought.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Are you sure your catalytic converter isn't plugged up? My 4.0L would bog down after coming to stop from cruising speeds. It would even die occasionally.

Just a thought.
I'm really wondering about it. I have been all along but I don't really have a way to check without cutting my exhaust up and having to have it welded it back together. My dynomax catback is crimped permanently. The cat is a 3 year old Magnaflow that I figured was fine but I have no clue. I'm grasping at straws here so I'm definitely wondering about it.

How was your performance throughout the rpm range? Mine will redline no problem at all. Did you have any real performance issues with acceleration? I've never died but bogging down (200 rpm, and below that 200ish tach line) coming to stops sounds very, very familiar. How did yours act driving around?
 
I'm really wondering about it. I have been all along but I don't really have a way to check without cutting my exhaust up and having to have it welded it back together. My dynomax catback is crimped permanently. The cat is a 3 year old Magnaflow that I figured was fine but I have no clue. I'm grasping at straws here so I'm definitely wondering about it.

How was your performance throughout the rpm range? Mine will redline no problem at all. Did you have any real performance issues with acceleration? I've never died but bogging down (200 rpm, and below that 200ish tach line) coming to stops sounds very, very familiar. How did yours act driving around?
Since you've replaced those components, I'm not convinced it is that. I didn't notice much difference, maybe a little sluggishness under load but that was about it.

Have you checked all your pulleys to make sure they aren't binding up or even the power steering pump? That's a stretch but I'm just putting down what's coming to mind. If you crank it and just let it sit idling will it drop in rpm? Is it only at certain times the engine is a little rough?

I don't know if this is a good idea or not but have you unplugged each sensor individually and ran the engine to see how it would react?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Since you've replaced those components, I'm not convinced it is that. I didn't notice much difference, maybe a little sluggishness under load but that was about it.

Have you checked all your pulleys to make sure they aren't binding up or even the power steering pump? That's a stretch but I'm just putting down what's coming to mind. If you crank it and just let it sit idling will it drop in rpm? Is it only at certain times the engine is a little rough?

I don't know if this is a good idea or not but have you unplugged each sensor individually and ran the engine to see how it would react?
Pulleys all spin just fine as far as I can tell. If I crank it and leave it alone, it'll usually go immediately to 1500 like a normal Jeep, then it'll drop down to maybe 900 or so, then over the course of 5-10 seconds it'll drop down to about 550 gradually. Today it idled at 700 for two minutes. Most other days, it'll go to 550ish. After driving, there's no telling what it'll do. It's more unpredictable once warmed up but it will act up cold also.

It acted...bad when I unplugged the TPS. It was idling at like 1300, chugging, horrid rich fuel smell, and vibrating the entire Jeep pretty bad. Plugged it back in and it went back to my current state of normal.

Unplugging the IAC just leaves the idle at whatever it is, since there's no longer a computer to control it.

When the MAP sensor gets unplugged, it surges back and forth like it can't figure out what it wants to do. Pull the vacuum hose from the MAP, it really wants to die.

Unplugging the O2 just makes it sputter and sound choky. Surges some.

Unplugging either the Intake air temp and/or the coolant temp sensor both raise the idle and throw the check engine light.

I don't want to throw exhaust (cat specifically) at it but it does have a hiss noise under load. I've never driven a 4.0 with the same gearing as me (4.10 and 31s with a 5 speed) so I don't know if mine is sluggish like a slightly bad cat or not. Nothing to compare to. All I have is a hiss under load and a bad idle to work with. The hiss is more noticeable when I'm accelerating a little hard on the gas. I only assume my cat is Magnaflow. My dad took it to a shop when I was out of the country as a surprise gift to me for when I came back. The shop he took it to usually buys from O'Reilly and as far as I know O'Reilly only sells Magnaflow cats for YJs. So I assume it's MF. It looks to be the universal model based on eyeballing the length of it, but without putting my tape measure on it, it's hard to be sure.
 
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