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ATF+4 are not all the same

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JS97ZJ

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
In researching info on my 42re, I came acrossed this info on the recommended atf4 fluid. Just thought it might be of interest. The new ATF+4 fluid is synthetic so I'm not sure if it can be used in the TC safely.





Licensed ATF+4® Brand Names

Remember, for best performance and vehicle warranty compliance select only licensed ATF+4® for your Chrysler®, Jeep® or Dodge® vehicle. Use of non-licensed ATF brands may damage your vehicle or void your warranty. Please contact us to report unauthorized use of the ATF+4® trademark by non-licensed brands.


Please note Licensed ATF+4® Brands have been updated as of April 1, 2012.

Advance Auto Parts ATF+4®
Amalie ATF+4®
Auto Extra ATF+4®
AutoZone ATF+4®
Carquest ATF+4®
Castrol ATF+4®
Castrol Transmax ATF+4®
Chevron ATF+4®
Citgo Transgard ATF+4®
Coastal ATF+4®
Craft+4 ATF+4®
Federated Auto Parts ATF+4®

Great Wall ATF+4®
Havoline ATF+4®
MAG 1 ATF+4®
Mobil ATF+4®
Mobil Super ATF+4®
Mopar ATF+4®
NAPA ATF+4®
Northland ATF+4®
O’Reilly ATF+4®
Parts Master ATF+4®
Parts Plus ATF+4®
Pennzoil ATF+4®

Petro-Canada ATF+4®
Prime Guard ATF+4®
Proline ATF+4®
Pronto ATF+4®
Pure Guard ATF+4®
Quaker State ATF+4®
Ravenol ATF+4®
Sinopec ATF+4®
Super Tech ATF+4®
Tutela Transmission Force4 ATF+4®
Valvoline ATF+4®

This site is operated by the Center for Quality Assurance, Midland, MI.
Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.
 
#2 ·
Synthetic oil is safe to use, as long as it's the same oil weight as the required conventional oil. There's a stigma about Synthetic oil, that I like to dispel whenever the topic comes up. It's chemically engineered lubricant to fit certain requirements, including lubricity, viscosity, density, and heat resistance, and is literally designed to do what it says on the bottle. Conventional oil is little more than distilled Brent Crude.

Synthetic ATF4 is a 10-winter 40-weight synthetic oil with a number of detergents, and a thickener to keep its viscosity similar to conventional, for use in a gearbox. I'm not a chemical engineer, but I've used conventional and synthetic oils in motors, transmissions, and differentials, and all have had the same performance at a given oil weight.
 
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#8 ·
The OP has listed pretty much every brand of oil, much less every brand of ATF I've seen sold.

Besides the fact, the transfer case in a ZJ (231, 242, 249) will run on friggin' Yoo-Hoo. Keep it wet and cool, and it'll run for a long time.
 
#9 ·
JS97ZJ said:
Yeah...... That's what I thought too. Hate rumors.
Click to expand...
The trick with synthetics is, as long as it's the same SAE oil weight as the recommended conventional, it'll do exactly what the car needs of it.*

ATF+4 is 75W90 (SAE 10W40) oil with a number of dyes and detergents in it. Synthetic ATF+4 is the same thing, but instead of distilled petroleum, it's hydrocarbon that has undergone chemical reactions to produce an oil with similar properties. If you were in a pinch, you could use 10W40 motor oil (conventional or synthetic) in an ATF+4 transmission. I don't recommend it, because the detergents are there to prevent gear scoring, and as a stabilizer, but if the situation came up...

*The only time I say you should only use conventional is during the break-in of a new or newly-rebuilt engine. At a given weight, conventional oil is typically more viscous and should be used during break-in to reduce initial wear, and trap shavings. After the break-in, use conventional or synthetic oil as you want. (Conventionals are cheaper, but synthetics are more resistant to heat wear, and often offer better lubricity)
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
The article that I read was an old one that stated that there were companies out there that were selling ATF+4 that did't meet Chrysler's standards as ATF+4. And if used would cause transmission problems. The list I posted was a resent update. I just thought it interesting that you can now use just about any brand safely without voiding any warranties or hopefully causing any problems by using anything but the "best" (MOPAR)
 
#11 ·
JS97ZJ said:
The article that I read was an old one that stated that there were companies out there that were selling ATF+4 that did't meet Chrysler's standards as ATF+4. And if used would cause transmission problems. The list I posted was a resent update. I just thought it interesting that you can now use just about any brand safely without voiding any warranties or hopefully causing any problems by using anything but the "best" (MOPAR)
Click to expand...
You mean without paying a licensing fee to Chrysler. (Remember Chrysler, the privately owned company bailed out with our taxpayer money)

My trans builder specifies what I run in my trans.

My 231 tcase could care less what's in it.
 
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#12 ·
FPKites said:
The OP has listed pretty much every brand of oil, much less every brand of ATF I've seen sold.

Besides the fact, the transfer case in a ZJ (231, 242, 249) will run on friggin' Yoo-Hoo. Keep it wet and cool, and it'll run for a long time.
Click to expand...
----------------------------------

I know what a Who-Who is I think, but what is heck is Yoo-Hoo ???

Will a Jeep's TC, run as well, or even better on who-who lub. or if it is running on Yoo-Hoo ???

Just asking .

Phit
 
#18 ·
SchizophrenicMC said:
The trick with synthetics is, as long as it's the same SAE oil weight as the recommended conventional, it'll do exactly what the car needs of it.*

ATF+4 is 75W90 (SAE 10W40) oil with a number of dyes and detergents in it. Synthetic ATF+4 is the same thing, but instead of distilled petroleum, it's hydrocarbon that has undergone chemical reactions to produce an oil with similar properties. If you were in a pinch, you could use 10W40 motor oil (conventional or synthetic) in an ATF+4 transmission. I don't recommend it, because the detergents are there to prevent gear scoring, and as a stabilizer, but if the situation came up...

*The only time I say you should only use conventional is during the break-in of a new or newly-rebuilt engine. At a given weight, conventional oil is typically more viscous and should be used during break-in to reduce initial wear, and trap shavings. After the break-in, use conventional or synthetic oil as you want. (Conventionals are cheaper, but synthetics are more resistant to heat wear, and often offer better lubricity)
Click to expand...
ATF+4,along with most other ATF's,are more in the 5w-20 oil weight range.Some are even thinner like nissans matic ATF line.All licensed ATF+4's are synthetic and all have to be made from one of two base stocks.
 
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