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Cleaning the frame to metal???

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2.9K views 20 replies 18 participants last post by  WolfcreekCJ  
G
#1 ·
So we started last class on cleaning out frame up for por 15. Currently are using wire wheels and angle grinders. We have yet to get even just the top surfaces clean and it has been close to 5 man hours and 2 wire wheels.

So what are our options? At this rate the wire wheels alone will add up in cost.

What is the best method to get the frame cleaned off? We are in a small shop and have limited outside area.

I was thinking about taking a field trip to place that does media blasting and haveing them show the kids how it is done then transporting the frame home.

How much does media blasting cost? Frame is all clean just need the final to bare metal...
 
#2 ·
Blasting is definitely a time saver, and the surface finish it produces is perfect for POR-15. Call around and find some local prices. You will probably find that your man hours are worth more than the cost of a blasting job and the pro results will be superior to anything you can do in your shop.
 
#4 ·
"Strip disks" are made from a stiff plastic mesh. They took the paint off my sheetemtal super easy with my variable speed sander. Let the tool do the work. I was able to strip about 3 sq. feet of paint with one disk (the do wear out, wear away). Different companies make them. I got mine for about $9 each at home depot. I would also reccomend high quality paint stripper, but it's messy and dangerous and toxic.

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#5 ·
Are you in Grand Junction?
I have had ProPowder coating do some projects for me. They blasted and coated a motorcycle frame, and gave me a good deal on some assorted small parts.

When it was time to do the CJ body I gave them a call. I had them blast the whole tub inside and out the grill, and the fenders, lots of surface area. and they soda blasted the hood and more delicate parts.
The whole blast job cost me less than the bike frame powder coat job.
I'll bet JUST blasting the frame wouldn't be to much.
 
T
#6 ·
I did mine with 4.5" 80-grit flap discs on an angle grinder. They took off everything and left small scratches that I saw as good for paint adhesion. I used 6 of them, at about $7 a piece IIRC. I tried the wire brushes, "flappier" discs, and plastic ones as well, but liked these the best. I used a wire brush on a 3/8" drill for inside corners.

It's a rewarding thing to do. Once. Next time I'll take it to the blaster. I think my guy could have done it for $150 or so.

I do think seeing a sand blasting operation (especially a big one that has a large room for tractor trailers, etc.) would be neat for your students.

Good luck.
 

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#7 ·
GVHS, contact a local stripper (blaster that is) and talk to the owner about doing it as a community support deal, they should know the ins and outs of using it as a both promotional for community involvement and tax benefit. Most reputable business owners look for opportunities to support the community where they can, to many times people don't ask. Maybe one of your students or their parents will become a paying customer, offer to put them in the school news letter or pictures in the year book with a thank you caption, good advertising.

Good luck.
 
#9 ·
Many are recommending a chemical stripper. Although a great idea and an effective product in many cases, I am concerned in the school setting with kids due to the dangers, which again many have pointed out. I may be more sensitive to this sense I have a teenager working with me regularly, even though he is very comfortable and capable at this point, he is kept under close supervision, now if we can only get someone to watch me.

Just a thought.
 

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#11 ·
You mentioned you were going to use POR-15 on the frame.

I have found that POR doesn't adhere as well to a bare metal frame as it does to a rusty one. I actualy did a test. I wire wheeled a section clean, and painted it with POR-15. After it cured, I scratched on it with a screwdriver. It peeled off, but the section I didn't clean held tight. It scratched, but didn't peel.

Now, using a sandblaster does mechanically etch metal, so it would be beter than just wire wheeling it. Using a stripper does't etch the metal.

If you are going to take the frame down to bare metal, there has to be some sort of etching. Be it mechanical or chemical.

You probably already know this, and are using a chemical method, but I just wanted to throw that in JIC.

Be sure and send us some pictures...
 
#12 ·
My local powder coater/media blaster quoted me $450 to blast the frame and additional $750 if I wanted to powder coat. I also toyed around with having the body blasted and PC and was quoted $1250, but then it would have the orange peel effect on large flat surfaces and then there's the issue of touching it up after scratches.
 
R
#14 ·
I have one of those and they work good but it would take a lot of time on the frame. I did a trailer frame and it took many bags of sand and many hours and I did not get anal about getting all the way to metal, just cleaned to good paint.
 
#16 ·
BioTex - Did you first etch the bare metal after you "wheeled" it clean? POR doesn't like smooth shiny metal because it can't grip to it as well. That's why they recommend prepping it with Metal-Ready.

GVHS - Maybe a combination of things, since you have several pairs of hands helping. Do a quick scratching with some grinding wheels or 36 grit flap disc's to gouge up the paint. Then brush on some liquid stripper and let it sit overnight. Then the next morning remove the stripper, which has probably dried, with some strip discs.
I have never done this but it's a choice I'd try. If the stripper is still wet maybe you could use a power washer to remove it. I believe one of the users here said that worked fairly well. The chemical application and removal could be done when the kids aren't present, after and before class.
 
#17 ·
I dropped my frame off at a local sandblaster. It cost me $230.00 and was completely clean. Not a speck of rust anywhere. To me it was well worth it.

It went from this...

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...to this...

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Rich
 
#18 ·
GVHS said:
So we started last class on cleaning out frame up for por 15. Currently are using wire wheels and angle grinders. We have yet to get even just the top surfaces clean and it has been close to 5 man hours and 2 wire wheels.

So what are our options? At this rate the wire wheels alone will add up in cost.

What is the best method to get the frame cleaned off? We are in a small shop and have limited outside area.

I was thinking about taking a field trip to place that does media blasting and haveing them show the kids how it is done then transporting the frame home.

How much does media blasting cost? Frame is all clean just need the final to bare metal...
Click to expand...
I used wire wheels when I stripped my frame about two years ago, took between 8-10 hours straight with only a break for lunch and somewhere between 6-10 wire wheels, I would have to go back through my build thread to find exact numbers.

The only place that media blasts locally wanted 500.00 to blast the frame!

I estimate that I spent 16-18 months out of the 36 months stripping parts to bare metal on my build. If I attempt a build of this magnitude again, I will take everything to a media blaster at one time and immediately spray it with two coats of epoxy primer.
 
#20 ·
ripper5000 said:
Bringing this back but I am at this stage in my cj. Rixcj, I noticed that your frame was patched before you had it blasted. I was going to have mine blasted then do the patch work thinking it would make it easier to find the areas of concern. Also would a metal shot media be too harsh for the frame?
Click to expand...
I could see enough of what had to be fixed without blasting. So, I fixed it up first. I figured that if I blasted it first, by the time I was finished repairing it, it would have new surface rust on it.

I don't have any experience with shot blasting, so I don't have a good answer for you on that.

Rich
 
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