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post #1 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Dave's 78 Cherokee Build

After the 5 year build on my 83 CJ7 I learned a lot and hope to apply what I learned on the Cherokee and not repeat the mistakes. There was not much activity on this forum so I started a thread on FSJN and there is not much activity over there either, but for now I will see how well I can maintain two threads.

March 1, 2014

The 1978 Cherokee S that I towed home September of 2012.

I joined IFSJA in '01 after inheriting a '76 Waggie that was rusted beyond recognition, I swapped the 401/T400/QT to a '79 Waggie and drove it for a few years out of necessity, bought a '75 for the factory slots and parted it out and then bought a '76 Cherokee with a blown 360 but a fantastic body. Parted out the '79, sold the 401 and stored all the spare parts in the garage with the Cherokee for years with big plans to build it but finally let it go, no money, no tools, no time and eventually filed for divorce. I was honestly sick for two weeks after I sold the Cherokee, I had never felt that way about any vehicle in my life and I have owned a bunch.

After the divorce and while raising my kids I built the CJ to stay occupied and then went full circle and picked up this narrow track '78. Not nearly as nice as my previous '76 but certainly a worthy candidate for a project. It looks better in the photo than standing in the driveway, both rear quarters are body filler, it's a full re-paint but not a good one and it was hailed on at some point. The red was heavily oxidized so a week ago I buffed it with Presta Ultra Cutting Creme and it brought back a nice shine. My plan is to build it as an all around driver, 5.3/4L60E/NP241C replacing the current 360/T400/QT. (Edit) Honestly, I have not made up my mind, I really like the 6L80 in my 2500HD but the 12mpg with the 6.0 is horrible. On the other hand, the 6.0 moves that pig pretty good. Thought about a 5.3/4L60, 5.3/6L80, 6.0/4l80......most likely I will stick with the 6L80 but not sure about the LS

I was able to get it started with a remote switch but the harness was fried from a bad amp gauge connection. In December of 2013 I decided to install the replacement harness so I could start it with the key, after a week or so I had everything installed and was able to drive it for the first time around the neighborhood, and let me tell you, it was like I was back in my favorite pair of cowboy boots!

I swapped the Cherokee whitewalls with the Michelin LTX MS 30/9.50's on my daughters truck before I sold it. I rebuilt the MC2100 and it runs decent but I am not happy with decent. I built a junkyard TBI for the CJ and plan on building another for the Cherokee, it's just too cheap to for the gains in driveability and cold starts alone. I have a modified harness now and picked up a complete system for spare parts a few weeks ago. I will have to get a bonded title on this one, I did the same with the CJ and it was pretty painless. I will get it insured, titled and inspected in the next few months and start working on the priorities while trying to source the hard to find parts that I know I will need.

The short list:

Replace dash cluster.
Rebuild or replace steering box.
Alignment.
TH400 fluid and filter.
'97 Blazer fuel tank and pump module.
Junkyard TBI

After the short list:

Weld up the eighteen holes in the roof from the roof rack and deflector.
Door seals.
Ospho the roof and reinstall roof supports.
Work on rear window and wiring.
Lift springs and shocks.
Rebuild the NP241C.

The long term build:

As I said, 5.3/4L60E/NP241C
2"-4" lift springs and shocks
31/10.50's or maybe 32/11.50's
Replace quarters.
Bodywork and paint.
New late model buckets and recover rear seat to match.

That's about it for new, more to follow in time.




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post #2 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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March 5, 2014

I was so happy to get it running back in December I asked my daughter to take a video.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/119555...8/12956060224/

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post #3 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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June 7, 2014

I have not had much time to work on the Jeep but I started on the tank a few weeks ago and made a skid that bolts to the bottom of the floor pan to provide a flat surface for the top of the tank. While I was trying to decide how to mount the tank I noticed the rear crossmember was jacked up bad from the bumper hitch that was bolted to the crossmember and the bottom of the bumper. It took a few hours to burn out the rivets and cut the crossmember off the end of the frame rails.

It took a few more hours of heating, bending, twisting, heating and more pounding but I had it reasonably straight, a few more hours of patching holes and where I burned a big hole cutting the end of the frame rail I primed and painted it.










I used two pieces of 1.25" angle iron between the frame rails and attached the factory straps. When I pull it out to install the pump and hoses I will take a few photos of the skid and the cross braces. I went ahead and bolted everything rather than welding in case I need to tweak the location. The tank is tucked up as high as it will go and still allow clearance for the hoses.

I also took the bumper apart and straightened the center section and also the filler panel between the tailgate and bumper.




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post #4 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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June 8, 2014

I lowered the window and had to remove the bumper again to get to the harness to cut the sheathing off the cables. I tried to pull it through using picks and hooks to work the sheathing but it was trying to peel like a banana. As I said earlier, I damaged the harness on the lower end, chafing some insulation, burned some of it with the torch and yanked the plug off the motor circuit.




On the other hand, during my initial attempt to get the window down I found an issue with the wiring where it's routed through the body, as you can see the power feed and both motor feeds were bare in places, it's a wonder the window worked at all and lucky it didn't short and melt wires or start a fire.




I will solder and heat shrink the tattered wires and I bet I can find a abrasive resistant loom at the junkyard for cheap. I am pretty sure I have seen heat resistant cloth type covers before, probably at the starter on some vehicles. I also noticed a splice by a PO that may or may not have too much resistance so I will make a permanent connection.




On my CJ, I used a GM firewall mounted power distribution block as a ground buss, mounted just above the battery and it worked great. If I recall, I ran a 6ga cable to the back bulkhead of the tub and used a brass bolt and nuts to make a ground point for the taillights, fuel sender and any other accessories I may need. I suspect that little ground connection in the tailgate is not sufficient. I will do the same on the Cherokee and I bet that will eliminate some issues with the power window; I may run a dedicated hot cable and use the existing circuit to trigger a relay.

With all the hassle ahead of me, I would far prefer a manual window!




The next higher priority task is weatherproofing the cab, you can see they typical rust from the roof rack that I removed and covered the holes with duct tape. I see water damage on some cardboard behind the rear seat but I can recall if that was before or after the temporary patch. I will weld up the holes and if I ever need a roof rack I will use a gutter mount.

I ordered a gallon of Ospho earlier this week and my plan is to wire brush the flaking rust and coat it. I also like what I have read and the demonstrations of Corroseal on Youtube, I plan to use one or the other in a garden sprayer and coat the places I can't physically reach like the areas along the perimeter of the roof, over the windshield and down in the A-pillars.




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post #5 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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June 14, 2014

I just returned from the junkyard with a 40.00 class III hitch, 4" wider than the Cherokee frame rails...post surgery




I also picked up two pieces of braided nylon sheath that were used to protect fuel hoses near the tank, the small piece is about 1" in diameter and I think it will work great to protect the tailgate wires where they are routed through the body.




I pulled the tank and cut the tailpipes off to work on the hitch, as I said earlier I would post some photos of the tank skid and the mounts that are simply 1.25" angle iron. The straps are factory '97 Blazer and bent to fit, they are bowed upwards in the middle so they are somewhat flat to the tank when the bolts are tightened. The skid is 1.5" flat plate welded to 1.5" angle iron, bolted to the bed floor support on the rear and bridging the spare tire bump stops towards the front. I positioned them to be on the flat surface of the tank and put a single layer of 1/4" closed cell foam weatherstrip on each side.








I needed a front bumper for my CJ so I bought a piece of 3/16" square tubing, split it and mitered the ends. The Cherokee frame is 4" tall and 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 1/4 structural tube is listed on the web but I am not sure if it's a common size or not. I will call Monday, if I can get it locally I will go ahead and replace the crossmember while everything is apart.






I will need to make some long cuts in 1/8"-3/16" plate when I build my CJ bumpers so I picked up a Demon blade at Home Depot last week. I had not even taken it out of the truck but I needed to cut the ends off the trailer hitch and I was out of cut-off wheels.

I put it on an old Skil saw and the damn thing is amazing, quiet, not many sparks and it didn't heat the metal up...just like it's advertised

I cut both sides of this end in less than 30 seconds. This will be very handy because I will make plunge cuts on the plate so I can bend it and keep it aligned when I weld it.


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post #6 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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My parents AC quit so I had to stop for a few hours and go buy a window unit and install it so they can sleep tonight, it will be a week or more until they can get a new system installed.

I cut the other side plate off, cleaned them up and temporarily bolted them to the frame using an existing hole on each side. Cut the hitch to length and hung the bumper with two bolts to make sure I had good clearance, I need to fine tune the location front to rear but I think it's going to work just fine. I am pretty sure I can raise it up about 1/2" closer to the bumper.







.

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post #7 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I dropped off my O2 regulator at the welding shop during my lunch hour and there was a metal fabricator shop next door. They will break a piece of 3/16" plate for less that 50.00 so I placed an order. The original crossmember is functional but looks like *** and is less than 1/8" thick so I feel it's a reasonable cost.


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post #8 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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I picked up the bent plate at lunch today, well worth the expenditure in my opinion; it's at least 1/16" thicker and a tad bit nicer looking

I drilled the holes to attach it to the top and bottom of the frame and to mount the bumper and found a hole saw in the box to cut the the body mount holes. The factory crossmember is about 1.5" wide on the bottom and the ends are notched I believe, for access to the body mount bolts.

I put it up on the frame and did not see any reason to cut the bottom or notch the ends, it saved some work and will be a bit stronger.

I reinstalled the bumper and double checked my hitch dimensions, pulled it back off and tacked the side plates. This weekend I will drill all of the hitch attachment holes in the frame, paint the crossmember, finish my welds on the hitch and get back on the tank installation.

It ain't much to look at, not like dropping in a 5.3, installing leather seats or painting but it's all gotta get done.








It's hard to see but the side plates are not tight to the bottom of the crossmember, once I add bolts it will raise the receiver in the middle to be about a 1/4" under the bumper.

Also, I have room to trim the bottom of the side plates about an inch, do you think I should trim them closer to the hitch or leave them as is for just a bit of tank protection?




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post #9 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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November 2, 2014

I can't believe I have not worked on the Cherokee since June, time passes quick!

Been really busy at work with about 150M in active projects and also trying to buy a house or property, and of course it's hunting season and although I don't get to hunt much I do get out and shoot once in a while when it cools off.

I decided to hold on the tank installation until I had the nylon fuel hose and compression fittings to bridge between the hard lines and the tank, since I received the parts way back I decided to dedicate the weekend to getting the tank in and at least test the pump. I ran into a snag hooking the filler hose to the tank, over the summer I picked up a 1"x2" copper adapter from the plumbing supply company thinking that would be an easy fix. It was not, for starters finding a few inches of 2" fuel hose and even 1" fuel hose is a major pain at least in my town, and the adapter hit the top of the frame.

I had the tank installed but I pulled it all out last night and using a large washer drilled out to 1" and a piece of 3/4" pipe (1" o.d.) made a nipple and welded it to the tank nipple that is about 1 7/8" diameter. That worked well and for now I used 1" and 3/4" heater hose and connected the filler neck and removed the vents that run through the cab.

This morning I finished running the wire loom up to the engine, filled the tank with 5 gallons of gas and checked the Sport Comp fuel gauge, it read about a needle width more than empty and I would estimate there will be 2-3 gallons at or slightly below empty and that seems like a decent reserve.

It took a while to get the Summit regulator set to 2.5 lbs and I ran the pump for a few minutes watching and listening for problems and checking for leaks.

The nice part, once I figured out the battery was not dead, it was the crimp on battery cable ends that were corroded, the 360 fired right up and idled smooth, sounded funky with no mufflers but not obnoxious. I am going to hook the fuel pump to a key on power source and take a spin around the neighborhood.

Over the next few weeks I will sort out what I need for a safety inspection and start making repairs. I want the Cherokee at least drivable but legal would be better if I do close on a house, and as back up for the Nissan. I did have all the lights working but I robbed parts of the Cherokee to finish the CJ, I know I need a headlight switch, dimmer switch and horn. Now that I have the tank in, I can paint and re-install the Class III hitch and the bumper, I have not decided what to do with the rear window, for now the wires are hanging out above the crossmember so I can raise and lower it with a battery.

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post #10 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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November 20, 2014

I completed quite a few items Sunday and a few after work this week:

1. Reinstalled the heater fan box and motor...fan blows great!

2. Located and installed the heater vacuum hoses and the heat/defrost controls work fine, the hoses need to be replaced and I also need one defrost hose.

3. Installed the windshield wipers.

4. Installed all the new stainless screws in the grille and headlights, still need to adjust the headlights.

5. Replaced the instrument cluster bulbs, cleaned the contacts and coated all with dialectic grease, ran an extra ground to the cluster.

6. Once the cluster is re-installed I will install the steering wheel and bolt the column to the dash support and reinstall the trim.

7. I removed the cruise control junk and repair the horn wiring.

8. Installed the license plates.

9. I need to flush the cooling system and add new coolant.

10. Installed the nylon fuel hoses between the regulator and new steel hard lines, made a bracket and bolted the regulator to the fenderwell.


It is supposed to rain all weekend but I will try to finish a few more odds and ends so I can get it inspected sometime next week.

1. Weld up roof rack holes.

2. Reinstall roof supports, this is temporary because the roof has a lot of surface rust I want to remove but the drumming on the roof is pretty severe even at 40 mph.

3. Reinstall the bumper and hitch.

4. Mix up some Quadratrac fluid and top it off.


I can't wait to drive it!


.

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post #11 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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November 22, 2014

I wanted to get it inspected today so I topped off the TH400, mixed up some homebrew and topped off the QT, duct taped the roof rack holes, replaced the heat/defrost vacuum hoses, installed the lower seat belts and two of the roof supports, bolted the column back in place and put the steering wheel back on.

I passed a cop around the corner from my house on the way to the gas station and another on the way to the inspection station but didn't get pulled over. No problem passing the inspection, I stopped by NAPA and grabbed two blind spot mirrors. Took a long ride through town to get a feel for how it was running, stopped at Sonic and grabbed a cherry coke and headed for NTB. Had the front end aligned and then a major storm rolled in. I decided to hit the highway and head home rather than cutting through town. With the rain and traffic I only hit 62 mph but felt some driveline vibrations so I will replace all the u-joints pretty soon. I also heard some howling/whining from the rear diff, I need to make sure it's topped off with gear oil and then check the bearings.

The windshield wipers were working fine when I snapped some photos and then I heard a pop and the drivers side wiper swung wide left and stayed there. It was a royal biatch driving without wipers and the defroster, but I made it home with no more surprises. I pulled the gauge cluster out again to get access to the wiper linkage and found the drivers side broke at a brazed repair. I ground off the brass and MIG welded it and put it all back together, not bad for the maiden voyage and I feel comfortable enough to drive it to work next week...I did have my phone, a tow strap and jumper cables and plan to pick up an new fire extinguisher tomorrow <grin>

I am pretty surprised how well it runs, it has not been registered or inspected since 2007.

But she is legal now!


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post #12 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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November 27, 2014

Reflections of one week on the road....LOVE IT

No failure to start, run, or stay running...

Just what I remember from my years in the Waggie from 2000-2003, people love the FSJ, I had people talk to me sitting in traffic and many others who smiled, waved or said "that's cool" or "nice Jeep". One guy at work said "what's that, an old Suburban" and a guy on the jobsite said, "is that your Bronco"


That's OK though, both are cool classics that stand out in the crowd with the FSJ.


Going back to the beginning, this is how it started:

I joined IFSJA in '01 after inheriting a '76 Waggie that was rusted beyond recognition, I swapped the 401/T400/QT to a '79 Waggie and drove it for a few years out of necessity, bought a '75 for the factory slots and razor grille and parted it out and then bought a '76 Cherokee with a blown 360 but a fantastic body. Parted out the '79, sold the 401 and stored all the spare parts in the garage with the Cherokee for years with big plans to build it but finally let it go, no money, no tools, no time and eventually filed for divorce. I was honestly sick for two weeks after I sold the Cherokee, I had never felt that way about any vehicle in my life and I have owned a bunch.

#1 1976 Wagoneer (401/T400/QT Donor)




#2 1979 Wagoneer (Daily Driver)






#3 1975 Wagoneer (Slot and razor grille donor, seriously rusted out basket case]




#4 1976 Cherokee (amazingly nice, showroom shiny interior, very little rust)




#5 1978 Cherokee (Great to be back in an FSJ)




I am approaching this build a bit different, where the 1976 Cherokee was supposed to be a TBI 350 with a single serpentine belt system backed by a GM T400 case with a AMC QT output shaft, this will be the an LSx/4L60/NP241. Because I enjoy driving it I will build it and drive it; I spent 5 years building the CJ and that is just too long.

After week one, it looks like I have to do the following to keep it roadworthy and reliable:

1. One rear wheel bearing and change the fluid.
2. QT chain and vacuum pot.
3. Front axle seals.
4. Universal joints
5. T400 fluid and filter.
6. New exhaust, dual 2.5" with Hooker Aero Chambers, 99% will remain in place with the LSx.

I am ordering a 1227747 chip from Bill H. and VSS and will install the TBI, not required for roadworthy and reliable but definitely cleaner running and easier cold starts and driveablity.

Hope you all have a great, safe Thanksgiving!



.

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post #13 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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November 28, 2014

I replaced the passenger side wheel bearing this morning and what I anticipated to be a one hour job took two, most of the wasted time dicking around with the shop press. I took it for a spin and first, the whine is still audible so either the other wheel bearing is also worn out or one of the differential bearings. And second, the dang Jeep shook bad, I thought the mirrors were going to fly off and I spent an hour and a half at Discount Tire on Thursday so I took it back.

After another hour and a half they had the wheels off and I told the kid to knock the weights off and start over, but there were not any on the front. One tire was off 7 ounces and another 4.25 ounces, they had already balanced two before I told them not to stack the weights but that didn't matter, even one layer was hitting the caliper. I told them to mount the weights right behind the slots and that worked, and I also had the kid break down one tire three times and spin it to get the 7 ounces down to 4 and then re-balance. They finally got it finished and were probably happy to see me go, but it was done as it was supposed to be the first time. I am not complaining, Discount has gone over and beyond every time I had an issue.

There is still some minor vibration but I ran it up to 80 and it feels okay, maybe a u-joint is bad.

I spend the afternoon doing minor repairs, the replacement side markers would not fit properly in the factory housings so I took them all off and sanded the edge of the lenses and replaced the screws with the correct ss oval head screws. One reverse light quit so I pulled both taillights and moved the ground from the factory location to the housing side, cleaned all the terminals, coated all with dialectic grease and put it back together. Faded side markers, blinkers and taillights bug the crap out of me so I didn't mind replacing the side markers and the turn signals when I broke them. I am watching for a set of new taillight lenses but I bought a can of VHT Blackout (red) to experiment. I washed the lenses with Dawn and dried them with compressed air, then I sprayed two light coats on the inside. They definitely look more red and much, much better to me; it will be hard to see in the pictures but look at the upper portion of each lens, the drivers is painted and you can see it's quite a bit darker than the passenger side.

After editing the photo I can see my bumper is way out of alignment.





.

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post #14 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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November 28-30

It turned out to be a great day to wrench on the Jeep, warm, breezy and I managed to get a few needed tasks finished:

I installed the power steering gear and it feels much better with a few degrees less than 3 turns lock to lock. It takes a little more effort to steer and I am not sure if the other gear was flat worn out this it's tighter and not leaking. I broke my pitman arm puller and it's guaranteed for life but I don't know where I bought it.

I also noticed the wheel stop bolts don't even come close to axle.

I spent a good three hours working on the dome/courtesy light circuit and finally have the drivers side jamb switch working both courtesy lights and the headlight switch turns them off and on, the passenger side jamb switch is toast. I did run a dedicated ground from the battery to a brass bolt in the e-brake bracket and tied all the grounds to the bolt including a dash cluster ground. I did find the tailgate window switch is missing the ground, possibly had something to do with its flaky operation. I will probably go out tonight and pick up a cheap dome light and courtesy lights, the factory lights are broken; I want a dome light so it's more obvious when the courtesy lights stay on.

What a great day, three in a row and I accomplished a lot, especially the little things that make a difference in the daily commute.

  • The courtesy lights are working and zipped tied in place for now, I don't see where they are supposed to be located.
  • Installed the fuel gauge temporarily in the glove box...on Thanksgiving Day I was warming it up and it ran out of gas in the driveway, definitely a necessity.
  • Installed dual power outlets, one for the phone and the other for the GPS, also in the glove box.
  • Installed a fuel pump relay.
  • Installed new defrost ducts...yeah, get to use the defroster in the morning.
  • Discovered a wire labeled trans kick-down, took a few hours to figure out what they hell it was...yeah, no more manual shifting and it works great!
  • Cleaned all the ***** out of the back.
  • Vacuumed the inside and drove it to gas up and hit the car wash.
  • Figured out my ash tray has no balls...wimpy.



I also tried out Pilot brand 1156 and 1157 LED's, the brake, blinker and taillights look better to me, more red and brighter. They blinkers flashed a little faster, snappy but the dash lights would not flash. The reverse lights looked brighter and matched the LED license plate light. Since the blinker indicator on the dash did not flash, and they seem to be just a tad short and take a lot of effort to seat in the sockets I may take them back.

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post #15 of 188 Old 10-18-2016, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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December 3-13

The 360 smells like it's running rich so I decided to do an ignition tune-up along with some upgrades.

I stopped by Autozone on the way home from work and bought a cap adapter, cap, rotor, inexpensive Ford 460 8mm wires, Ford TFI coil, GM module and Delco platinum plugs. I ate dinner to let it cool down and immediately found I bought a bolt down cap adapter and needed a snap on. I pulled the #8 plug and found the previous owner installed Bosch platinum plugs and they looked new so I headed back to the parts store. I returned the plugs, swapped the cap adapter and made it home about 8:00 and went to work. I found a 12v ignition wire and hooked up the new coil, swapped the wires and fired it up, sounded good so I grabbed the timing light and it was sitting at 5 BTC, I bumped it to 15 BTC and took a spin around the neighborhood.

It felt strong and pulled hard, definitely better than three hours ago and bet it would bark the tires if the Turbo 400 had a decent shift kit...not that I would do that with a questionable Quadratrac chain.

Up until today, all I have done is replace the previous crapped out carb with the a NOS MC2100 and set the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge, vacuum is 20 hg and pretty steady. Tomorrow I will make sure the distributor is using manifold vacuum rather than ported vacuum, bump the plug gap from .030 to .045, check total advance and idle mixture again. I HATE carburetors but the doggone 360 runs pretty darn good with the MC2100.

I found a auto restoration shop in town that is now building exhaust systems, I will wait until my next check in January and take it in. I was planning to use Hooker Aero Chambers but after listening to a bunch of YouTube videos, I think they will be too loud. I ran Flowmaster 2-chambers on multiple vehicles and absolutely loved the sound, enduring the Houston heat and humidity to hear the song every time I drilled it. Of course, I was in my 30's and now at 50, I am feeling I will be a little more conservative, so I am split between Super 44's and 50's.

I have had two people this week ask how much I would sell it for, I told them both 10K and they both said "wow".......my reply, I love my Jeep and that is what it would take to let it go.

Oh, and I replaced the steering gear this past weekend, the replacement is a 3 bolt and the original is a 4 bolt, the original box felt squirrely but it had a light effort that I prefer, the replacement box has a higher effort but it may be the pump is shot, and the turning radius on both sucks. I am not happy with the steering, it feels like there is play in the wheel but I have not had a chance to see if steering wheel movement transmits immediately to the wheels. It may be the rag joint that I plan to replace with an XJ lower or it may be worn tie-rods, in any event, I think I am keeping my original steering gear since the core charge was not much and try rebuilding it. I watched a bunch of videos over the weekend and it does not seem that difficult.

This evening I pulled the Motorcraft ignition module that was/is leaking goo down the inner fender and salvaged the wires and plugs. Took an or so and mounted the HEI module to a piece of aluminum angle and bolted it to the factory location. I did this mostly as preventative maintenance thinking the factory module may leave me sitting on the side of the road. I also pulled each plug, re-gapped to .045 and checked the compression, each cylinder was 130-135 psi so it appears to be wearing well, the FSM calls for 140 psi minimum but this is not a long term engine. However, with that news I am plowing on and will order a chip from Bill H. and get the TBI installed.

The time I spent dicking with the 2100 this past Thursday was irritating and reminded me how much I hate carbs; so I moved the TBI from the fireplace to the coffee table and verified what I need to make the swap. I went to Oreilly's last night to exchange the carb kit and picked up a throttle body tune-up kit, Bosch O2 sensor, spark plug fouler (O2 bung) and temperature sensor. I have several MAP, TPS and IAC sensors as well as injector spares on hand to hold on buying new.

I have two harnesses chopped and ready to fit and fabricated a throttle body to manifold adapter quite a while back.

I ordered a USB to serial adapter suggested by babywag and hope to have fewer issues getting WinALDL and TunerPro working on my laptop.


Dave's 78 Build
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