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Rovingbar

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Are these a new style of anti-rattle clip? I bought some break pads and they came with these little clips. The FSM and all posts I found have a wire that wraps around the break pad support on the steering knuckle.
 

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anti rattle

those are the clips that take up the slack on the end of the new pads
so they fit better, not tight but snug. I've used them everytime I change
my brake pads and they definitely make a differance. I have a 96 Grand
with 190,000 and have changed my brakes a few times.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
How do they fit? My old truck had a long slide that ran along the support rail on the steering knuckle. Do these go on the end of the pad? The support rail has notches in it, is this where they clip?

Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
ratmonkey said:
the support rail has notches from the pads wearing into them.
That's what I thought but I've seen those same notches in every photo I can find. The depth is uniform and the notch is about the same width as the clips. I guess I will try to fit them tonight. It bothers me that I cannot find instructions on how to install the clips. Also, there are 16 clips but only 8 contact points.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I ordered correct set of anti-rattle clips. I'll post pics when I figure out how all this goes together.

There are 4 sets of 4 clips in my kit. Each set has a different size: 4 of .010, 4 of .015, 4 of .020, and 4 of .025. I think the size refers to the thickness of the clip metal. They all seem to be the same physical size. The .010 clips feel very flimsy compared with the .025 clips. These must be some sort of shim.
 
I just did my front brakes and the new pads came with a bag of those and instructions. I've never seen them before. The thinnest shim was .010, but the tolerance range was only .005 wide. I measured the slop between the pad and the bracket like it said and only needed to use the thinnest shim on one of the pads. The other 3 were over spec, but by less than .005, so adding the thinnest shim would have put it under spec.

It looks like the OPs kit didn't come with instructions; here are the ones that came with mine:
 

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
kachink said:
I just did my front brakes and the new pads came with a bag of those and instructions. I've never seen them before. The thinnest shim was .010, but the tolerance range was only .005 wide. I measured the slop between the pad and the bracket like it said and only needed to use the thinnest shim on one of the pads. The other 3 were over spec, but by less than .005, so adding the thinnest shim would have put it under spec.

It looks like the OPs kit didn't come with instructions; here are the ones that came with mine:
Thanks. This really helps. I figured out how to add the clips, but I put them on both ends of the pad. Doh! I'll pi k up the clips tomorrow and fix it right. I'm hearing some grinding sometimes when I back up.

Do you know which end should have the double tabs? I put them on the bottom (leading edge) because that's how it looked in the FSM. I can't seem to find I strychnine for that either.

Who would have thought that simple brake pads could be so complicated.
 
Do you know which end should have the double tabs? I put them on the bottom (leading edge) because that's how it looked in the FSM.
I put the double tabs at the top because that's the way it came apart. I usually do 1 side at a time and refer to the other side if I'm not sure about something. The thing is, I've done the last couple of brake jobs, so if I got it wrong once then it would be wrong every time after that.

I just checked my Haynes manual and I can't tell from the photos. The drawing on the instruction sheet for the shims appears to show the shim going on the single tab end which goes at the bottom.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
kachink said:
I put the double tabs at the top because that's the way it came apart. I usually do 1 side at a time and refer to the other side if I'm not sure about something. The thing is, I've done the last couple of brake jobs, so if I got it wrong once then it would be wrong every time after that.

I just checked my Haynes manual and I can't tell from the photos. The drawing on the instruction sheet for the shims appears to show the shim going on the single tab end which goes at the bottom.
I know exactly what you mean. Photos and instructions seem to leave these details out. It sure is a pain for an amateur like me. Lol.

I think that drawing shows brakes on the front of the rotor (wheel motion downward), mine are at the back of the rotor. It makes sense to have the clips on the trailing edge since that is where all the parts will be grinding together.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Here is a nice photo gallery of my adventure this evening. I installed both types of clips. A quick test drive went well. Only time will tell if anything comes loose. Some observations first.

1. Notches in the pad support bar seems to be due to pads rubbing as ratmonkey said. I am dissapointed that the 'wear clips' do not address the location of this wear.
2. My drivers side notches were much deeper than the passenger. I considered using a thicker wear clip, but it would not slide so I stuck with one that fit across the entire span of the support.
3. The anti-rattle clips ( or pad support springs as some sites call them) are easy to put on once you've figured out how they fit. I spent half an hour turning it every way possible. I'm not completely sure the images below are correct, but they seem to match the drawings I've seen in several online references.
 

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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Here are some more pics of the notches and fitting the drivers side wear clips.
 

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Here are some more pics of the notches and fitting the drivers side wear clips.
The notch in the first pic and any other notches that deep will need to be dealt with. The pads will stick and it will appear to be a stuck caliper, but it ain't. What I did is grind the entire slider surface down and use big shims on the pads, but a bandaid. The way to fix it is to skin the slider surface or have a good welder work it.
 
You've got the pads on upside down from the way mine are. I have the double tab at the top and the single tab at the bottom. I'm not sure which way is correct. As posted earlier in the thread, the FSM and Haynes don't show anything conclusive. Does anyone else here know the correct position? Does it make a difference?
 
The notch in the first pic and any other notches that deep will need to be dealt with. The pads will stick and it will appear to be a stuck caliper, but it ain't. What I did is grind the entire slider surface down and use big shims on the pads, but a bandaid. The way to fix it is to skin the slider surface or have a good welder work it.
I noticed those notches for the first time on my last brake job. Luckily mine aren't that deep yet. Seems like filling it with weld then grinding it back to the surface would be a pretty easy fix.
 
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