Are these a new style of anti-rattle clip? I bought some break pads and they came with these little clips. The FSM and all posts I found have a wire that wraps around the break pad support on the steering knuckle.
That's what I thought but I've seen those same notches in every photo I can find. The depth is uniform and the notch is about the same width as the clips. I guess I will try to fit them tonight. It bothers me that I cannot find instructions on how to install the clips. Also, there are 16 clips but only 8 contact points.ratmonkey said:the support rail has notches from the pads wearing into them.
Brake pad replacement complicators.Are those a new style clip?
I've always used these...
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Sold 5 in a bag, need 4, installed on both ends of the pads.
Not for anyone who has 4 hands!Brake pad replacement complicators.![]()
Thanks. This really helps. I figured out how to add the clips, but I put them on both ends of the pad. Doh! I'll pi k up the clips tomorrow and fix it right. I'm hearing some grinding sometimes when I back up.kachink said:I just did my front brakes and the new pads came with a bag of those and instructions. I've never seen them before. The thinnest shim was .010, but the tolerance range was only .005 wide. I measured the slop between the pad and the bracket like it said and only needed to use the thinnest shim on one of the pads. The other 3 were over spec, but by less than .005, so adding the thinnest shim would have put it under spec.
It looks like the OPs kit didn't come with instructions; here are the ones that came with mine:
I put the double tabs at the top because that's the way it came apart. I usually do 1 side at a time and refer to the other side if I'm not sure about something. The thing is, I've done the last couple of brake jobs, so if I got it wrong once then it would be wrong every time after that.Do you know which end should have the double tabs? I put them on the bottom (leading edge) because that's how it looked in the FSM.
I know exactly what you mean. Photos and instructions seem to leave these details out. It sure is a pain for an amateur like me. Lol.kachink said:I put the double tabs at the top because that's the way it came apart. I usually do 1 side at a time and refer to the other side if I'm not sure about something. The thing is, I've done the last couple of brake jobs, so if I got it wrong once then it would be wrong every time after that.
I just checked my Haynes manual and I can't tell from the photos. The drawing on the instruction sheet for the shims appears to show the shim going on the single tab end which goes at the bottom.
The notch in the first pic and any other notches that deep will need to be dealt with. The pads will stick and it will appear to be a stuck caliper, but it ain't. What I did is grind the entire slider surface down and use big shims on the pads, but a bandaid. The way to fix it is to skin the slider surface or have a good welder work it.Here are some more pics of the notches and fitting the drivers side wear clips.
I noticed those notches for the first time on my last brake job. Luckily mine aren't that deep yet. Seems like filling it with weld then grinding it back to the surface would be a pretty easy fix.The notch in the first pic and any other notches that deep will need to be dealt with. The pads will stick and it will appear to be a stuck caliper, but it ain't. What I did is grind the entire slider surface down and use big shims on the pads, but a bandaid. The way to fix it is to skin the slider surface or have a good welder work it.