I've just removed the old hinges (only 1 broken bolt) and see some sort of sealant was used. What's recommended?
do i need anything between the body and my new window frame hinges?
whiskeysrider
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Joined
·
10 Posts
I've just removed the old hinges (only 1 broken bolt) and see some sort of sealant was used. What's recommended?
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
I just painted my Jeep and originally bought 1/16" self-adhesive rubber to use as an isolator. I changed my mind and bought 3M Strip Caulk and plan to use it between all the hinges and body panels.
I know a few people have used silicone sealant but in my opinion, the final installation will be permanent. I don't think there will be any way to get a hinge off unless a piece of wire like fishing leader is used to saw through it.
I know a few people have used silicone sealant but in my opinion, the final installation will be permanent. I don't think there will be any way to get a hinge off unless a piece of wire like fishing leader is used to saw through it.
When I pulled mine off, there was no sealant of any sort. I wonder if that's why it was all rusted behind them. 
I had them blasted and powder coated and put them back on without any sealant. Perhaps I should have used some. I've heard silicone is not great for the paint? Can anyone confirm?
I had them blasted and powder coated and put them back on without any sealant. Perhaps I should have used some. I've heard silicone is not great for the paint? Can anyone confirm?
Joined
·
991 Posts
The PO if my CJ5 had used silicone around the rollbar body points and the hinges. Incidentally these were the only places that were rusted!
Also AMC did not paint behind the hinges.
I was just going to paint behind mine and reinstall.
Also AMC did not paint behind the hinges.
I was just going to paint behind mine and reinstall.
Only use Automotive Body Sealant or Seam Sealer as it is sometimes called, designed for sealing the seams, gaps, overlaps of body panels. It gets applied to a primed surface and not bare steel as it is designed to be painted over. Every automobile that leaves the factory has body sealant and your Jeep CJ is no exception, except it didn't have enough.
Anytime you remove a a hinge, body sealant should be reapplied to prevent rust from appearing later on. This is a common problem when guys swap out factory hinges with SS hinges and see that the steel body part behind it start to rust later on because a sealant was not applied before installing them. During my restoration on my CJ-7, I used two tubes and two cans of body sealant on every seam where two pieces of metal met or were spot welded together.
Using Silicone, Latex or rubber type caulking compounds will actually promote rust since they react to the surface its being applied too, especially if bare steel. Plus, these types of sealants can't be painted over with the exception of some of the Latex type.
Body Sealant can be found at most NAPA stores, 3M is a good brand, and online from places like The Eastwood Company. http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/seam-sealer.html
![Image]()
Automotive Body Sealant can be applied after your hinges are primed and just before installing the windshield hinges and frame to the body tub cowl. Let the sealant squeeze out when tightening the bolts, which also should have sealant on them, and then cleanup the excess sealant with mineral spirits and a clean rag.
Hard to see it but there is sealant, beige in color, behind the windshield hinge and and lower door hinge.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Anytime you remove a a hinge, body sealant should be reapplied to prevent rust from appearing later on. This is a common problem when guys swap out factory hinges with SS hinges and see that the steel body part behind it start to rust later on because a sealant was not applied before installing them. During my restoration on my CJ-7, I used two tubes and two cans of body sealant on every seam where two pieces of metal met or were spot welded together.
Using Silicone, Latex or rubber type caulking compounds will actually promote rust since they react to the surface its being applied too, especially if bare steel. Plus, these types of sealants can't be painted over with the exception of some of the Latex type.
Body Sealant can be found at most NAPA stores, 3M is a good brand, and online from places like The Eastwood Company. http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/seam-sealer.html
Automotive Body Sealant can be applied after your hinges are primed and just before installing the windshield hinges and frame to the body tub cowl. Let the sealant squeeze out when tightening the bolts, which also should have sealant on them, and then cleanup the excess sealant with mineral spirits and a clean rag.
Hard to see it but there is sealant, beige in color, behind the windshield hinge and and lower door hinge.
Joined
·
991 Posts
Thumbs up keith. I will be following your instructions.
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
x2 good too know
Joined
·
10,674 Posts
x2 on seam sealer.
Silicone will allow water to track up with capillary action into any crevice. It has a life span measured in months or years depending on composition and whether you followed the priming instructions. As no home mechanic EVER follows the priming instructions this stuff is short lived. You have therefore created the conditions for slow rusting behind that hinge which, whilst an easy welding job, is avoidable.
Best thing inside panels is to provide a free drain and ventilation, not try to stop it getting in. Unfortunately the windshield area has a lot of closed crevices in and around the edge and this helps the windshields and cowls corrode rapidly.
You could maintain it. Take that windshield down every 6 months and clean it up. If you have the time take it off the vehicle and clean up the areas behind the hinges, you can sand it down, prime and paint without too much trouble.
Silicone will allow water to track up with capillary action into any crevice. It has a life span measured in months or years depending on composition and whether you followed the priming instructions. As no home mechanic EVER follows the priming instructions this stuff is short lived. You have therefore created the conditions for slow rusting behind that hinge which, whilst an easy welding job, is avoidable.
Best thing inside panels is to provide a free drain and ventilation, not try to stop it getting in. Unfortunately the windshield area has a lot of closed crevices in and around the edge and this helps the windshields and cowls corrode rapidly.
You could maintain it. Take that windshield down every 6 months and clean it up. If you have the time take it off the vehicle and clean up the areas behind the hinges, you can sand it down, prime and paint without too much trouble.
Joined
·
10 Posts
Thanks Keith! Obviously you know what you're talking about! Off to NAPA!
I would. Most of my original hinges you see in the photo above, I powder coated at home. You still need to apply body sealant behind them were they mate to the body tub so rain water, wash water and just plain old humidity in the air can't get between them and start the rusting process. If your paint quality is good and you plan on removing hoods and tailgate every so often, at least apply sealant to the bolt threads.
Next time you get a chance, look at a Jeep CJ from the salt belt like the east coast and examine were the rust starts. It is always were two pieces of metal meet or were spot welded together. That small crack is all it takes for moisture to get in and start attacking the bare steel that no primer or paint could ever seal out.
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
At least read the product data for 3M Strip Caulk, it is specifically designed for this application and a heck of a lot easier to apply.
![Image]()
http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html
Strip Calk is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. Typical applicatons include engine compartments seams, firewall, and other non-visible automotive seams, gaps, and joints. A soft, non-hardening butyl rubber material. It is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. The permanently-pliable formula means the sealer won't dry out and become brittle -- No re-work because sealer dried up and stopped working. Excellent high temperature resistance means this caulk can perform many sealing functions in engine-compartment temperatures. Excellent gap-filler can plug holes to prevent noise and moisure penetration.
![Image]()
http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html
Strip Calk is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. Typical applicatons include engine compartments seams, firewall, and other non-visible automotive seams, gaps, and joints. A soft, non-hardening butyl rubber material. It is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. The permanently-pliable formula means the sealer won't dry out and become brittle -- No re-work because sealer dried up and stopped working. Excellent high temperature resistance means this caulk can perform many sealing functions in engine-compartment temperatures. Excellent gap-filler can plug holes to prevent noise and moisure penetration.
Your CJ is awesome! I checked your build but didn't see how you used the strip caulk. Do you press around the outside edges of the hinges or do you put it under the hinge? Before or after paint? What do you plan on using under your cowl vent/above the fresh air intake? Does anyone know what the factory uses under the hinges?At least read the product data for 3M Strip Caulk, it is specifically designed for this application and a heck of a lot easier to apply.
![Image]()
http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html
Strip Calk is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. Typical applicatons include engine compartments seams, firewall, and other non-visible automotive seams, gaps, and joints. A soft, non-hardening butyl rubber material. It is used as a thumb-grade seam sealer for filling in joints, seams, voids and gaps. The permanently-pliable formula means the sealer won't dry out and become brittle -- No re-work because sealer dried up and stopped working. Excellent high temperature resistance means this caulk can perform many sealing functions in engine-compartment temperatures. Excellent gap-filler can plug holes to prevent noise and moisure penetration.
![Image]()
Joined
·
26,594 Posts
I just used axle grease but Kieths way is far better, I have a plastic tub so it doesn't count. I was also thinking of adding a grease nipple to the oil hole in the hinge. It will keep the water out and makes it easy to lube the hinge from time to time.
In fact it's time now for me to lube the hinge and the wiper pivots...
In fact it's time now for me to lube the hinge and the wiper pivots...
I used the 3M Strip Caulk too where it was needed. Like where the fenders meet the tub, electrical bulk head connection at the firewall, transmission cover plate to tub floor and several other places where pieces may need to be removed for inspection or replacement. I would never use the Strip Caulk where hinges and more permanent bolt on devices would never be removed and needed to be painted body color like any car manufacture would do.
If I had aftermarket chrome or S.S. hinges I would use it but not on factory "painted" hinges that would not be removed. Strip caulk, rubber based, would eventually dry out from sun exposure, shrink and cause hairline cracks that will start to accept moisture. Its just not meant for exterior use and paint can't be applied to it like Body Sealant can.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
