I gotta ask WHY are you changing CMP?

 

Thanks a lot!

I have start issues, i'm going to change crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor too.

 

Is there any codes - ?
Sounds expensive way to diagnose an issue -

 

No codes founded.

 

I had a similar hard starting issue on my WK and it took some time to find out and it was this Fuel Sensor part here:
Bosch Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor fits 03-09 Dodge Sprinter 2500 #0061536528.

This part is on the fuel injection pump.

There are 2 fuel sensors. This one on the pump. The other fuel sensor is on the top of the engine on the rail. Some other guys have had the rail fuel sensor cause the problem.

Usually you can see on the scanner if the rail pressure is low and one of these sensors are causing the problem. These sensors release the rail fuel pressure when they go bad, and the rail pressure is then low until the engine starts.

I do not know why the engine turns off by turning the steering wheel.

 

You did use a scanner - the key on off is lacking.

 

Yes.
Scanner and diag app didn't return error codes.
I don't understand "key is lacking", i'm sorry, can you explain me? (keyfob works fine)

 

If you are using the common jeep key on off to get codes, I was making aware that this method will NOT retrieve all codes --- its lacking in ability.

A capable scanner is the preferred tool.

MY experience with diesels its FUEL and glow plugs to look at first.

 

If you are using the common jeep key on off to get codes, I was making aware that this method will NOT retrieve all codes --- its lacking in ability.

A capable scanner is the preferred tool.

MY experience with diesels its FUEL and glow plugs to look at first.

Ahhh, ok. Not, my Jeep is an Overland and cannot operate "on/off codes", i used two different scanners to read codes, thanks.
Glow plugs and fuel lines are ok, rail pressure is 10 off and 250 on.

 

Once it is running, does it easily start easy after you turn it off, and then try to start it again? This is Usually with no codes, and commonly a fuel pressure issue. There are 2 fuel pressure solenoids.

Does the problem only happen when it is cold, like 15 cel. or less? If it's cold it could be the glow plug or glow plug module. Glow plugs give codes. The module is no codes but you can test it.

CaM sensor and crack sensor give codes.

Fuel filter where was it changed last and could the fuel have water in it? If you have rail pressure then it's usually not fuel filter. Sometimes I will change this o I know it's not the problem, or test the fuel pressure after the filter.

 

Once it is running, does it easily start easy after you turn it off, and then try to start it again? This is Usually with no codes, and commonly a fuel pressure issue. There are 2 fuel pressure solenoids.

Does the problem only happen when it is cold, like 15 cel. or less? If it's cold it could be the glow plug or glow plug module. Glow plugs give codes. The module is no codes but you can test it.

CaM sensor and crack sensor give codes.

Fuel filter where was it changed last and could the fuel have water in it? If you have rail pressure then it's usually not fuel filter. Sometimes I will change this o I know it's not the problem, or test the fuel pressure after the filter.

Hi Tango.

A lot of questions, i'm trying to answer properly.

1- Minimum requirement to start are three or four turns of crankshaft. Less of this, never happened (all cars i had starts at first turn), independently if it's running or parked for hours.
2- The problem happens independently if it's cold or hot. Anyway, glow plug and glow plug module are ok (and changed, lost money).
3- Crankshaft was changed, today, problem persists. There're no codes, anyway.
4- Fuel filter was changed one month ago, together with ful lines, and problem persists.

P.D.1 Battery changed, too.
P.D.2 I have got another problem, but i don't know if it's relationated wit this: when air conditioner is on, and turn steering wheel to top for any direction (and car is stopped, no brake), ENGINE STOPS. I understand this problem can be relationated with rev controls, i'm going crazy with little faillures (but i'm in love with my Jeep, third Grand Cherokee i have).

THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENT WITH ME

 

Power steering pumps usually have a pressure switch in them to tell the computer when they have really high pressure. This tells the computer to respond and give it some more fuel (this happens when you run the steering wheel all the way to one direction and hold it against the stop).

Perhaps you should loosen the belt and see if any of the pulleys are dragging. You would need a helper to do this but you wouldn't need to take everything apart.

 

Rail pressure in "stand-by" is 6,5 psi
Rail pressure started is 250 psi

Are these values right?

 

I have this injector values.
Anybody knows about them?
Injector 1: -0.32
Injector 2: 0.50
Injector 3: -0.15
Injector 4: -0.27
Injector 5: -0.46
Injector 6: 0.71

 

I'm thinking you have fuel pressure issues. If I'm remembering right (and someone please correct me if they know better, because I would love to have confirmed correct numbers), that rail pressure with the engine off should be ~100psi, rail pressure while cranking should be ~1800psi, and idle pressure should be around 4000psi

 

That's much higher than mine.
Where can i find this information?

 

This is the closest information I've been able to locate so far

https:// oregonfuelinjection.com/services-repair/diesel-diagnostics-repair/sprinter-diesel-diagnostics/

https:// oregonfuelinjection.com/services-repair/diesel-diagnostics-repair/jeep-diesel-diagnostics/

**I'm new to the forum and don't have a high enough post count to post links I guess. Just take the spaces out of the links**

I'm working on getting the factory service manual for the engine but both these engines show similar fuel pressure values, so I'm thinking that most common rail engines operate around the same pressures

I should also add that I've confirmed very similar fuel pressures on my own 2008 WK CRD using Torque Pro

 

But in the thread there're talking about Liberty's 2.8 and Sprinters until 2006 (i don't know how engine was mounted in those Sprinter's).

 

I understand the liberty and sprinter are different motors, but they're both common rail like our engine. The sprinter is a 4 or 5 cylinder Mercedes OM class engine. The pressures those links give aren't perfect, and I'm actively working on getting more accurate numbers (should have them by morning), but I did compare the pressures from those links with the pressures I'm getting from my 2008 Grand Cherokee 3.0L CRD and they are very close. Close enough to get a good idea of what pressures to be looking for.

 

I apologize you!
I was wrong, data was in BAR, not PSI!
6 bar in rest, before starting (i don't know if it's right pressure or too low).
250 bar started (it's right, good pressure).

Looking pics or your engines, i can see that the arrangement of several elements (cables, tubes) in mine are wrong.
Different mechanics playing my car have done odd jobs, I see.

 

News!

I took the Jeep to a Bosch center.

They told me all injectors overflow and can not be repared.

More of two thousand euros to change them.

I'm thinking in buying them rebranded, in Germany the're interchangeable injectors like this: https://www.ebay.es/itm/Injektor-Einspritzduse-Mercedes-A6420701387-0445115064-0445115027-0445115076-/323049153860?&autorefresh=true

Any advice?

Thanks.

 

Did you ever get your injectors replaced?

 

I just had my injectors all bench tested and replaced at the end of last year. 5 of 6 failed completely and one was passable, my extended warranty paid for the whole thing because my injector pump failed less than a week before; we convinced them the failed pump caused the failed injectors, which is highly possible but difficult to prove. It's quite possible that an injector failed which caused my pump to fail too but the injector pump may be worth investigating for you either way.

Preparing to have my claim rejected, the cheapest I was able to find 6 injectors was about $1200 US dollars but it was $2000 up front and $800 given back upon receiving my dead injectors (CORE charge) up to 12 weeks later. Seems 2000 EUR for the entire job would be a fairly similar price across the pond, my bill ended up being around $3500 US. I know there are a lot of shops that do nothing but diesel injectors; test, rebuild, sell, ect. I'd recommend contacting a few of them to find parts then hand your mechanic the parts you sourced.

Good luck sir!

 

Also, the bench testing was reassuring but if you're already convinced that even one injector is bad, skip the testing (unless its free) and just get the injectors.

Also-also, I watched a decent video on how they re manufacture injectors from a shop's website and as long as that wasn't total BS, I'm convinced re manufactured injectors are 100% just as good as brand new, save yourself a little money with the re-mans.

 

+1 for remanufactured injectors. I've been snatching up the reman injectors from Rock Auto (0986435355) as they come available one-by-one (I'm pretty sure I'm buying my old injector bodies back at this point...), and I've had no issues so far. I've paid about $380 USD up front, with $110 coming back after the core return of my old injector.

 

Camshaft position sensor changed yesterday.
Hot car problems continue. I'm desperated, i don't understand this happens with A/C switched on, but works fine with A/C switched off.
Recapitulating: if car is hot (parked outside, with sun striking him) and i turned on A/C, when i move the steering wheel or release brake pedal and squeeze accelerator, Jeep stalls. If car is hot, but i DON'T turn on A/C, works fine.

 

Are there any strange noises when you turn the AC on?

Does the radiator fan spin freely? Does it make any odd noises when it engages?

Does the power steering pump make any odd noises?

The radiatorfan is run off of the power steering pump with an electronic clutch. When you turn on the AC it will activate the radiator fan because you need to pull air through the AC condenser in order to make to AC work.

If the AC compressor, power steering pump, or radiator fan are having issues that would cause excessive drag, you should find your culprit

 

Had to change my glow plug relay once, and car was hard to start afterwards. The new Doorman relay was not the right spec although everybody claimed it was the right on. Gave to low voltage initially. Took a long time to start. Could let it glow 10 sec more after the Wait… turned off. Then it started better. Bought original GPM and all was fine again.

 

Had to change my glow plug relay once, and car was hard to start afterwards. The new Doorman relay was not the right spec although everybody claimed it was the right on. Gave to low voltage initially. Took a long time to start. Could let it glow 10 sec more after the Wait… turned off. Then it started better. Bought original GPM and all was fine again.

Had changed too, but there wasn't alteration in the start.

 

Sorry to be a contradicting stat here but I ordered the Dorman 904-310 controller (after hours of researching if it was right or wrong) as well as 6 Bosch glow plugs and my Jeep now fires up better than I've ever seen her.

Maybe Dorman has changed things? Their site lists it specifically as a 4.5 volt output (even for Sprinter vans) and, although full of loopholes, the Dorman website also says it has a lifetime warranty.

I guess time will tell.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-50518-904-310.aspx?origin=keyword

https://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/products/warranty/index.aspx#warranty

 

With 38ºC ( aprox 100º F) there should not be problems with start, but i have start problems with cold and warm engine, always, every day.

 

My problem got solved by an original BERU GPM. The way I found out this was another thread on this forum. My conclusion when reading about the measurements done by another guy was:

In my JGC 2005 CRD I had the original A642 153 0379 module. It was still managing the glow period fine but the afterglow was not working and I got a fault code. I bought a Dorman 904-310 and I have the steel glow plugs. The Doorman unit dit not work correctly. The glow timing was off and when ready to start it ran on the starter for a long time (-27C here now) at -5C outside. Tried to check with Mercedes and they told me the module in my JGC was some sort of industrial unit used only on Mercedes Sprinter vans. Ended up buying a BERU 0522140709 and everything works fine again. Was able to return the Doorman module. There is a thread someplace on this site where a person has measured the original module. He also had 4.4V glow plugs and found that the original module put out 10.6V at initial warmup and drop to 7V until starter engaged. Something like that. If I remember right he also measured a Doorman module and it was just 3.5V at initial warmup and drop to 1.9V after a few seconds. I believe the Doorman module to be the wrong part for some JGCs at least. I was able to use the Doorman module if I ignored the "wait to start" message and just waited maybe 20 sec at -4C

Try searching for "Glow plug controller mystery" to find the original thread about measuring the controllers.

 

Hi.

Update with news.

Stalling problems are solved since i was installed GDE EcoTune. I'm VERY VERY HAPPY with this mod.

I only have to solve starting problem, I will change (again) camshaft position sensor, i installed a Stark cps but i'm not sure it's a good sensor.

 

My WJ had the camshaft issue, went to Mercedes commercial service parts and got it for a 3rd of the price, was a 10 minutes installation, engine was hot.

 

Prices here, in Spain:

Genuine Jeep cps, in Jeep service: 300 euros, aprox 350$

Mercedes Benz cps, in MB service: 180 euros, aprox 210$

Febi Bilstein cps, in spare's web: 35 euros, aprox 40$ (this is i bought few hours ago)

If continues to fail it will not be a cps problem, i understand that will be a wiring problem, it would be third sensor i was changed, and that failure 3 is very very rare.

 

Two hours ago, Jeep turn on MIL, gives me these codes: P0607, P065A, P0335, P0341
Deleted codes, car works fine. This is the second time to give me these codes, i'm lost.