Welcome to the crowd of those of us with poor air flow on the passenger-side vents.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/passenger-side-air-hot-when-c-guess-i-just-lucky-long-time-4319887/

It is strange you'd receive all those fault codes if you already pulled the box and replaced the doors. Not sure if you have some type of electrical problem or the control unit is acting up?

When you had the box out did you replace all the foam seals between box and vents? That seems to be a lot of members problems when the passenger-side foam rots away.

I've also seen some members on her pull the blower motor and clean off the AC evaporator coils to improve air flow. But if you had the box out 2 years ago would think maybe you did it then.

PS. below are real good photos by Mike/Mule of the passenger side vent foam rotted away.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/blend-door-problems-fix-questions-4310749/index2.html#post40249355

 

did you do a re calibration? I do not see it mentioned.

 

Jtec, I don't remember if I did a forced re-calibration or not, but I think I read somewhere that the system re-calibrates itself after like 20 on/off cycles with the key. Am I wrong here and need to force one?

I also remember reading that it was possible to force the re-calibration but I do not remember how. Could you instruct me on how to do this again?

Thanks again for your help!

 

Here's how I fixed that problem on my Laredo with manual HVAC: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/how-get-plenty-air-your-dash-vents-3544698/ Most of the air was leaking out under the dash.

 

Thanks guys for all the replies and help. I have ordered new climate doors from blendorstore.com. I ordered the Dual Control (dr) blend doors (I have the dual system) and a new recirculation door replacement from that website. Hopefully they will arrive this week and I can get started taking the dash and HVAC apart again later this week or this upcoming weekend. I will also be trying to see if anything is blocking the system when I have it taken apart the HVAC unit and while I'm cleaning the "fins" of the heater core and evap system.

While I have the box taken apart I will also look for and replace any foam that I can. I believe I have seen some foam strips with tape on one end at the hardware store before which was more like weather stripping and supposed to be used to help seal around doors and windows. Is that what you guys would recommend? Is there somewhere online where I could buy some new foam if you don't think that would work?

If anybody has used those doors from that company or has any other information regarding the operation of the system which I could check while I have it apart, I would greatly appreciate it! Or even if you think those new doors won't help and there may be something else wrong with the system causing those error codes, let me know what you think it may be!

Hopefully I will have working AC by the end of next weekend! Ill try to keep everyone informed of how this project goes!

 

look here scroll down to "Calibrating AZC door actuators"

http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm

 

jtec, thanks for the info. I re-calibrated and the only code that is coming up now is 52. We'll see if it stays that way after driving it all week. I will still replace all the doors I ordered since it is still not blowing out the passenger side too well and is blowing cold out the driver's side, but not as cold as it should be. I have a feeling that the weatherstripping method explained above will help with the not blowing hard out the passenger side issue, and I am hoping the new doors will take care of the code 52, but I am still curious about the coldness of the air. I will probably have to have it checked by another AC guy when I get it filled back up after the job. Ill probably shine a UV light on the evaporator core to make sure there are no leaks, but I haven't had to refill the R134a freon so I doubt there will be any.

Any other issues with the evaporator core that I should possibly be checking since I will have it right in front of me? Any other things I should be looking into especially while I have the whole system apart?

 

jtec, thanks for the info. I re-calibrated and the only code that is coming up now is 52. We'll see if it stays that way after driving it all week. I will still replace all the doors I ordered since it is still not blowing out the passenger side too well and is blowing cold out the driver's side, but not as cold as it should be. I have a feeling that the weatherstripping method explained above will help with the not blowing hard out the passenger side issue, and I am hoping the new doors will take care of the code 52, but I am still curious about the coldness of the air. I will probably have to have it checked by another AC guy when I get it filled back up after the job. Ill probably shine a UV light on the evaporator core to make sure there are no leaks, but I haven't had to refill the R134a freon so I doubt there will be any.

Any other issues with the evaporator core that I should possibly be checking since I will have it right in front of me? Any other things I should be looking into especially while I have the whole system apart?

52 is your recirc/fresh air door. Search for "52" on this page http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm, it's about 3/4 of the way down. I actually had that on my 2000 and currently have the dash out for heater core replacement and can confirm these break too, all my other doors are fine but that one is swingin' in the breeze...

 

jepsenkc, just curious since you're questioning the coldness of your AC air if the mechanic who replaced your leaking compressor replaced anything else? Like the accumulator/drier which is normally replaced with a new compressor?

I have a very slow leak in my 04 4.7 evaporator. I just added some 134a to it to bring the performance up to spec. But that's the first time in 2 years I added some but it made quite a difference. When I eventually pull the box I'll likely replace the evaporator, heater core, all doors, all foam seals and the motors/actuators I can't reach with the box installed.

If I were you I'd replace the passenger-side blend door motor/actuator which is on the front of the box towards the firewall. Believe mine may be sticking some and you can't get to this motor/actuator with box installed.

Good move replacing your blend doors - recirc door and good luck.

 

check this link for some HVAC door tips

http://heatertreater.net/jgc-blend-door-fix

 

All done it's fixed!

I will include pics but I don't know how to insert them into the text section of this reply, sorry.

So I got through the dash and into the HVAC unit and replaced the weather stripping around the ports that connect the HVAC unit to the dash as can be seen in the first picture.

While replacing the re-circulation door and the blend doors I also found that the actuator for the re-circulation door was broken (can be seen in the second picture) and ordered another one online, but I was able to fix it myself with enough clearance that it works fine by putting a stainless steel 1/4 in x 5/8 in clamp on it which can be seen in the third picture. I also added these clamps to the other actuators on the blend doors since I read online that this is what happens to a lot of the actuators when they break. I will be returning the new actuator since the old one works fine after a $.50 fix. much cheaper than the $60-$160 all the parts stores wanted for the actuator! I'll post on here again if it ever fails but I doubt it will and it may be a cheaper solution for others who run into this problem.

After refilling the AC lines with new R134a freon with the fluorescent dye, I was able to find a small leak in the low side port valve so I have another one of those along with a tool to change it out coming in the mail.

So far I can say that the air is blowing much better in my vehicle thanks to the weather stripping. Hopefully the new valve will solve my AC issues with not cooling the air enough. As of right now I am very optimistic though, and I'd say this job was a success.

Thanks again for all the help guys! It was VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

 

Great and hope you have your HVAC system fixed for good! :thumbsup:

I'll be doing the same thing you're doing and thanks for the nice photos. I've seen the worm clamps used before on the cracked/broken piece sticking out of the actuators and will have to check out the shape mine's in.