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Wj taillights again

3.3K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  jamesnmandy  
#1 ·
Want to confirm before I order replacement taillights that that is the most likely cause.

New bulbs made no difference.

When lights are on, passenger side tail light is brightly lit. Driver side taillight is like 90% bright lit, slightly less than other side despite new bulbs. Third (high mounted) brake light is very dimly lit. (that should not be).

When I hit brake pedal the passenger taillight stays lit, no brighter, no change, driver taillight goes completely out, and third (high mount) brake light lights up bright (normal for when brake pedal depressed).

I tried checking all the contacts, find no leaks with water or whatever. My Google FU tells me one of the circuit boards in a taillight is worn out, and the quickest path to least resistance is to replace both taillights and move on with life.

Am I missing something? Can't afford to just throw parts at it unless I am reasonably sure it will work.
 
#2 ·
I could be mistaken, but I don't think there is a circuit board in your tail light. The wires come out of the back and plug into the tail light housing. It's just a plastic case that holds the bulbs.

You've got something else going on there. Did you check the bulbs to make sure that they're good? The brake lights should have two filaments inside.
 
#3 ·
I could be mistaken, but I don't think there is a circuit board in your tail light. The wires come out of the back and plug into the tail light housing. It's just a plastic case that holds the bulbs.

You've got something else going on there. Did you check the bulbs to make sure that they're good? The brake lights should have two filaments inside.
The harness plugs into each tail lamp assembly, once. Each socket in the tail lamp has metal contacts. The bulb assembly also has contacts that line up with the once in the tail lamp. If even one of these contacts on the housing is recessed into the lamp too much, it will cause problems like the OP is having.

OP, check these contacts again in the housing. Pry them all up slightly to ensure good contact with the bulb sockets.
 
#4 ·
Vaporhead said:
The harness plugs into each tail lamp assembly, once. Each socket in the tail lamp has metal contacts. The bulb assembly also has contacts that line up with the once in the tail lamp. If even one of these contacts on the housing is recessed into the lamp too much, it will cause problems like the OP is having. OP, check these contacts again in the housing. Pry them all up slightly to ensure good contact with the bulb sockets.
I would think some steel wool might be good if they are oxidized a little.
 
#5 ·
Several threads on this problem. You might be able to bend the contacts up a little and get it to work, but most times the problem returns. (did this to mine and worked for a couple of weeks). I replaced my light assy. I have both sides for sale from parting out my Jeep. $15 each plus shipping.
 
#8 ·
Based on other threads and feedback I purchased the circuit boards to replace since my taillight assemblies are fine. That's essentially the functional part which is being replaced when one replaces the entire assembly. If that doesn't fix it I will inspect the contacts on the actual bulb sockets where they contact the circuit boards. By the way the second gen WJ from 1999 thru 2004 all use the same taillight and they all use the same circuit board. OE Part number 55155139AH
 
#10 ·
I never could get my socket to connect, hence my tail light would never work and I ended up breaking part of the area where you hold the socket to twist it out. I just bought another one for $39 and said the hell with it. The strip that folds over, when you screw it to the body, was already broken, too.

Sent from my iPad using my fingers
 
#12 ·
Circuit board went bad in mine, I ordered one of off rockauto.com and it solved the problem!
 
#16 ·
35=80?

I was planning to get new assemblies for $65 shipped from eBay, but $35 and a 30 minute project for me and the wife, it was well worth it. If they go out again I will get assemblies and probably will do LED like mentioned just because they don't run hot, bulbs last longer, brighter light...

The job was a little messy, that Permatex black sealant is a MF to get off of anything like hands.
So if getting ones hands dirty is a concern, by all means spend the extra 40-50 bucks.

Picture link here that shows where the board fails on the back side which you can only see after removing it. The failure point is the top (tail light) bulb on both sides. Plastic supporting the tab gets hot and allows the contact to push away from the socket contacts. To call it a circuit board is a stretch, very simple.
https://db.tt/GpDbw1DN