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WJ 2 inch Lift Advice/Opinions [budget boost vs. 2 inch suspension boost]

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85K views 35 replies 20 participants last post by  maxfederle89  
#1 ·
Hey WJ'ers

I need some advice on 2 inch lifting my Jeep. I realize there are multiple feeds dealing with this but I haven't seen one as comprehensive as with my questions. Thanks in advance for the help and the advice.

I've been running mild trails and FS roads for the past couple years on stock suspension.

I was always adverse to lifting my WJ because I thought the stock clearance was good enough for me and I didn't want to mess with the center of gravity. However, I now find myself wanting a tad more clearance while still allowing this WJ to be my daily driver. Also its about time to replace the suspension anyway. I'm not looking to go over 2 inches.

So, I've looked at 3 options:

1) Budget Boost Spacers (cheapest)
-I realize theyre the cheapest but probably least functional of the 3 lifts.
-I've also heard about stock springs bending or warping outward due to the spacers? That sounds dangerous.

2) Budget Boost Spacers with New Shocks (medium cost)
-I've read that it ads more flex/cheaper than getting new springs
-Either Rough Country or Rusty's
-I'm leaning toward this option

3) Iron Rock Offroad 2 inch Spring/Shock lift ()
-Is it worth the price to do the complete switch? Logic tells me it probably is worth it to forgo the spacers and do it right, but I'd love yalls opinion.


Also once I lift the jeep, I'm keeping my A/T tires at 245/70/16.
Does that look weird? I'm not super concerned about asthetics, but just curious if it would look like the jeep was running little tiny wheels.

Most importantly, death wobble avoidance. Do I need to immediately go take the jeep to get aligned at a wheel works type place? How do i make sure there is no death wobble?

And in general: What're your favorite brands? Are there brands I should avoid? Does this small lift change the feel or the way the Jeep drives? How did it help you on trail?


Thanks a bunch for the help everyone.
 
#2 ·
I'm nearly done going through this process myself. I spent hours and hours searching what I need/want. I started out with planning on a RC BB, then went to BDS 2" coils and shocks, and now I'm nearly ready to install my 3" IRO kit.

I would do it right and go with coils and shocks, our WJs have some years on them so I would just get new parts instead of going with a BB, as long as you can afford it. BDS and IRO are two popular brands when it comes to coils. If you go with BDS, you can call them and tell them you're a member of Jeepforum and they will give you a discount, when I called I was told $183 plus I think $50 for shipping. BDS coils will be stiffer than IRO 2".

If it's in the budget, you could order the coils separate and then decide on some better shocks. The most popular shock people are going to tell you to get are Bilstein 5100s, Kolak is usually the cheapest with a price around $300 or less. I found Skyjacker M95 monotubes for $260 shipped, all of the reviews I read on them say they are just as good or better riding than the Bilsteins. A couple other cheaper options are Pro Comp 9000 and RC N2.0(most people say they are trash). BDS also just changed the shocks that come with their kits to a different nitro shock, so if you do go BDS you could give that a shot.

In regards to death wobble, check your steering components and see how they are looking. I'm gonna go ahead and replace my ball joints and tie rod ends, including new sleeves to make it easier. If you can afford it, go ahead and change those too, might as well if it's got some miles on it. At 2" you shouldn't need an adjustable track bar, but some people do it anyway.

If you have a c/v style front drive shaft, there's a chance that will end up breaking and you'll need to replace it with a better double-cardan style, so that's another thing to consider.

Also consider replacing your shock isolators.

Many people like running a BB just fine, so if you're not looking to spend a bunch of money you could still go that route.

All of this info is what I've learned from my researching, if I'm wrong with something someone correct me.
 
#4 ·
Hey thanks for the assist y'all.
@99WJ539918 could you resend the link for your build thread? for some reason it won't work for me :(
@grenade 252 solid research brother. really appreciate the info. For a 2inch lift, would it be worth it to grab the BDS deal? Or would you recommend IRO for Daily driving and weekend wheeling? Also as far as shocks go, I was going to go with a package deal. But IRO's shocks look short. have you found any issues with them? ever heard of old man emu?

I think I'm going to change the coils, shocks, and get a new steering stabilizer.

I heard getting your tires aligned after lifting your rig is key to the lack of death wobble, but you guys don't think thats really true?
 
#5 ·
@grenade252 252 solid research brother. really appreciate the info. For a 2inch lift, would it be worth it to grab the BDS deal? Or would you recommend IRO for Daily driving and weekend wheeling? Also as far as shocks go, I was going to go with a package deal. But IRO's shocks look short. have you found any issues with them? ever heard of old man emu?

whoops messed up on the taging name.
 
#6 ·
I had the 2" BB kit form Rocky Road Outfitters installed, along with 30.5" ATs. They re-aligned it before I got it back. I am very happy with it. I did get death-wobble a year later, but I tracked that down to worn-out shocks (original Up Country that came on the Overland) and some loose suspension clamps. Replaced the shocks with those sold by RRO and tightened up the suspension. It's been over two years since installation, and I haven't had any other suspension issues come up. I highly recommend replacing the shocks when the lift is installed.
 
#8 ·
If you could give the mileage of your Jeep, it would help with choosing what route to go with the many options available. For instance, if you're going to be replacing any springs/shocks, I'd suggest getting all your spring Isolators swapped out while your down there anyways. Our isolators seem to be one of the largest points of WJ sagging over the years. If you did install your 2 in BB lift, yet are sagging an eighth of an inch or etc you're not actually gaining the MOST out of your newly installed lift!
 
#9 ·
Just a quick thought and to tag onto Grenade262 above- I have 162K on my GC. I am doing a 3 inch lift because of many factors including it will be a DD with light offroad. Also this will be my wifes DD so IT NEEDS TO BE PERFECT! The biggest factor is while I was inspecting my GC I noticed my budget getting blown because:

1. 3 of 4 tie rods ends SHOT SO may as well do them all
2. The Tie Rod is pretty weak from old age and was not adjustable due to rust, Also did the drag link because well it was a good package deal - NEW Tie Rod NEW Drag Link (Rustys)
3. Ball Joints SHOT - Replaced with Synergy
4. Why is my tire moving and clicking - New Timkin Bearings
5. Crap the brakes are shot - COOL SALE on Power Stop Rotors and Truck pads with E-brake ( ALL SHOT )
6. Now I am ready to do the lift - WELL NOT SO FAST - Bushings in 2 control arms shot
7. Rear A arm bushings and Ball Joint shot and replaced
8 May as well replace the front axle bushings since one is shot

Now I am finally ready to do suspension:
1. Track bar
2. 3 inch coils
3. New coil isolators all the way around
4. Front lower control adjustable arms to correct caster a bit and because my front lower arms are TOAST (Front non replaceable bushing)
5. Rear lower control arms SHOT and replace - adjustable arms - Maybe to help with pinion angle but probably overkill and because I want too
6. Front disconnects to be cool
7. Rear track bar links
8. New shocks because mine are shot and to get the benefits of the flex of the IRO springs and better ride

This GC is a pretty finicky vehicle compared to some of the other vehicles I have worked on. But at least prices are not bad to do all this stuff. However make sure you do all this stuff before you put on a new shiny lift and you get death wobble, loose steering, steering seems darty, a clunking noise. By the way these are all posts from the WJ forum

Enjoy
 
#12 ·
@BuckWild51, after eliminating a 4" kit as an option due to the complexity and cost, I was left deciding between the various BB and coil options out there. A lot of people just throw on the 2" spacers and call it a day. Since they didn't replace the trackbar, their axle is now off-center, and the original shocks are now extended by 2 inches, reducing their travel. Not sure if these are things you are concerned about, but they were for me.

I knew I would be replacing the shocks and trackbar, so my decision came down to $150 for spacers on old coils or $300 for new coils all the way around. For $150 difference, the decision was pretty easy for me to make. I was going to just go with IRO's 3" kit, which a lot of people go for, but after hearing that I do load up on cargo and do some towing, @Kolak guided me towards the OME HD coils, which have a slightly higher spring rate than IRO's coils.

Also once I lift the jeep, I'm keeping my A/T tires at 245/70/16.
Does that look weird? I'm not super concerned about asthetics, but just curious if it would look like the jeep was running little tiny wheels.
IMO, stock 245/70R16 tires do look a little silly after lifting:

Image


These are 255/70R17, which are 1.5" taller and about 3/8" wider. Absolutely perfect in the looks department:

Image


Of course, you can see your other options in one of the lifted picture threads.

Most importantly, death wobble avoidance. Do I need to immediately go take the jeep to get aligned at a wheel works type place? How do i make sure there is no death wobble?
Yeah, you should get an alignment ASAP. I am fortunate to have a shop owned/staffed by truck nuts. They know their way around modified suspension systems. I would personally stay far, far away from the big chain/corporate/dealership shops. Even if you find one willing to do the work, it'll probably be hit-or-miss on finding someone experienced with custom suspension systems.

With regards to death wobble and bump steer, some people have issues some don't. So far, I seem to be one of the lucky ones. After a few weeks and a thousand miles, everything is nice and tight.

In my case, I replaced all my TREs, sleeves, and stabilizer before lifting. I also did my hubs and CV shafts, which were showing signs of wear. My ball joints show no signs of play, or I would have replaced those too. Control arm bushings are visually in great shape, even for 248k miles, or I would be considering replacing those. So many things that seem to factor into post-lift handling, i think it's hard, as a novice, to know what exactly causes these problems.

BTW, if anyone wants a stress test, try US 52 through Winston-Salem, NC. Probably not the roughest highway around, but I'm sure it's in the top 10.
 
#13 ·
Hey Sorry for dropping off the face of the Earth everyone. The US Navy called and decided they needed me to go get some training lol.

Anyway, This thread rocks and seriously appreciate all the input from everyone here on the thread.

So my final decision was going to be an IRO 2 inch lift. Replacing the coils/shocks with what their package comes with.
@slickstick55 my WJ is a 2001 4.7 v8 with 130xxx miles
@Kolak I am using this as a DD with light offloading every other weekend or so. Also where I live normally has some pretty terrible weather/winters. I do usually load up with 5 full sized guys each time plus gear though. Thoughts on coils/shocks?
@4xTroy did you end up getting anything from IRO? And thank you for sharing your lift and the hilarious pics. The new tires look great. Yeah I figure I'd be able to keep my 245 general grabber a/t2 with a 2 inch lift. How is your ride after all this time??

Thanks again everyone. Feels good to be part of a helpful community.

V/r Buck
 
#15 ·
Hey Sorry for dropping off the face of the Earth everyone. The US Navy called and decided they needed me to go get some training lol.
Thank you. Hopefully you see more training than action!

@4xTroy did you end up getting anything from IRO? And thank you for sharing your lift and the hilarious pics. The new tires look great. Yeah I figure I'd be able to keep my 245 general grabber a/t2 with a 2 inch lift. How is your ride after all this time??\
The kit I got from @Kolak had the IRO adjustable trackbar (minus the jam nut) and I also got the spring mount repair kit.

So, at about 6000 highway/dd miles, I have absolutely zero complaints. It felt a little squirrelly for a bit, but things settled in quite nicely. The tires are wearing nicely, the first 5-tire rotation (SP>RR>LF>RF>LR) didn't cause any problems. The biggest complaint has been from the wife who, at 4'11", insisted I install some nerf bars. So much for increased ground clearance.

Good luck with your lift! Looking forward to seeing pics!
 
#14 ·
Also, I heart blistens are awesome but super squishy. I'm just looking for a good set of shocks that won't be a down grade from my current Upcountry shocks. I'm a noob at suspension but from what I've read, the UpCountry Shocks are actually pretty good quality?

I also have heard the dostech shocks suck ***. So would they be a HUGE downgrade from the upcountry stock shocks? What about IRO's stock shocks?
 
#16 ·
I went through the same thought process when I got my WJ, spacers versus springs and all that. With almost 150K on the stock suspension, I decided like many others on here to get the 3" IRO kit with Bilsteins (via Kolak). She already had factory Up Country suspension (about 1" higher than stock), so the actual gain was only 2".

I really couldn't be happier. She rides and handles just the same as stock, and does excellent off road with the combination of lift and Quadra-Drive. I don't find it too high at all, it actually seems right about where the WJs should have been from the factory. Pic attached.

Image
 
#21 ·
Hello i use as a DD a Overland 2004 and i am thinking in a 2" lift because its so low that a 2wd truck is higher than my jeep (sagged springs i think), my doubt is about the bb, there is of Polyurethane and this one of rough country of steel (http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-695c.html) i think that the RC will be better in time (zero sagging), also in the FAQ -> A: The AWD models will get a vibration out of the front drive shaft. ???? Maybe because of the change of angle of the drive shaft?? but my jeep has the conventional doble cardan luckily.:smile2:
 
#22 ·
Hello i use as a DD a Overland 2004 and i am thinking in a 2" lift because its so low that a 2wd truck is higher than my jeep (sagged springs i think), my doubt is about the bb, there is of Polyurethane and this one of rough country of steel (http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-695c.html) i think that the RC will be better in time (zero sagging), also in the FAQ -> A: The AWD models will get a vibration out of the front drive shaft. ???? Maybe because of the change of angle of the drive shaft?? but my jeep has the conventional doble cardan luckily.:smile2:
If your springs are sagged skip the BB and get 2" lifted springs. Springs are the most ideal, adding a 2" BB will get you your 2" but only atop of your sagging springs. Since adding a BB requires you to remove your springs, spend roughly the same amount of money and get new 2" lifted springs.

Problem solved.

As far as Poly vs Steel or whatever, I think both will outlast the life of the vehicle IMO. Supreme suspensions makes a plastic bb, that I have on my Jeep, that uses delrin, which is probably the best material (out of those common two materials) to resist the affects of water.
 
#23 ·
I'll be doing a 2" suspension lift and replacing all bushings and parts that need it along the way.

I'm on 255/75/17 now, with no lift. It's streetable since I have to drive it to work but I had to pull the plastic from the fender wells, tuck some wires for the washer fluid res and pull the front bumper.

Edit: I also pulled the pipe from the muffler to the exit since the weld was rusted and it just free spun inside it.

I'll be doing a lift before I do any cutting. I'll be keeping as much of it stock as I can. I've honestly thought about going 4" and be done with it since 2" won't give a lot of articulation for off road use.

I mainly roam around the woods and fields so massive flex isn't required from my rig but it's nicer to have and don't need as opposed to needing and not having.
 

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#25 ·
Iron Rock Offroad has really nice 2" lift springs. They ride and handle great, especially when paired with the Bilstein 5100 series shocks.

PM me or email me at kolak@aol.com for pricing. I will have some Columbus Day weekend specials going on too :)
 
#36 ·
Just for reference I did an IRO 3" with 255/75r17 on JK wheels. Not really applicable to your question but gives you an idea if you want to go that route. I bet the 2" from them would be great with Bilsteins [emoji106]
Sorry I don't have experience with the budget boost. It didn't appeal to me to take it apart and not just replace the old springs and isolators at the same time.
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