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Winterizing YJ for sub-zero temperatures

5K views 19 replies 17 participants last post by  nd_mountain_man  
#1 ·
I have a '91 YJ. Over the holidays I planned to travel to the Adirondacks from Washington, DC so in preparation I put 1/4 inch round weather seals around the door and window sills. I tucked 1/2 inch foam seals along the length of the doors (between the half-door and door upper) and in the space where the the windshield frame and softtop connect. The last thing I did was to rig 1 inch climbers webbing in a net fashion between the sports bars and tuck a nice heavy blanket between the softtop and the webbing. This reduced the drafts and noise by at least 98%!

Now the the point of the thread. I'm in the prelim stages of planning a trip to Alaska and had a few questions about winterizing.

Here's what I know of right now.
  1. Hardtop/doors
  2. Block heater
  3. Oil change to 5W-30(20)
  4. Sub-zero washer fluid

Can you guys who live in CND suggest anything else to do to prepare the YJ for real cold climate?

Thanks! G
 
#2 ·
Go down to the "local" subforum and post in that area. I'm sure some of the Alaskan and Canuckistan folks will speak up.
But it sounds like you are on the right track.

I kow a guy who lives in the UP who has a block heater and an oil heater in his pickup truck, seems like overkill but it sure does make sense.
 
#3 ·
I live in Alaska, and its -42 out right now. My jeep has 5w30, block heater, battery pad heater, and a block heater. The antifreeze is only a 50/50 mix. It runs just fine and starts up everytime...just remember to plug it in (we have plug ins at every parking spot) I also put new seals all around the hardtop and doors, and im working on putting an interior heater inside that turns on when I plug it in.

Hope this helps!
 
#5 ·
Test your coolant and remove and full soda cans from the interior.

To get rid of those pesky drafts above the windshield frame lift the hardtop up an inch and run some weather stripping between it and the windshield, I used some stuff from Fleet Farm that was adhesive on one side and was about 1/2" wide and 3/8" thick.

Look for a grill cover like some trucks have, if you can find one that will work it will make your Jeep warm up a lot faster so you don't lose any toes.
 
#8 ·
There are two styles of block heaters.
One installs in place of a freeze plug.
The other is called a "universal" and is a lower raditor hose heater, which splices into the lower radiator hose. That is the only style I have used. It has its pros and cons, but I am happy with it. It made by KATS and runs about $20.
I think the freeze plug ones do a better job, but the KATS can be removed when it is no longer needed, which is why I chose it - in case I ever move out of his hell hole of metro Detroit to somewhere warm. ;)
 
#9 ·
I have done very little extra with my Jeep for the sub zero temps. As long as your fluids have been kept up and you have a battery in good condition you are fine. A block heater would make starting easier( I have to crank it about twice as long(4 seconds) as in the summer) but I have yet to need one. I have considered a block heater but only could plug it in at home, unless I parked my Jeep where my cat was parked once I get it going.

I just make sure my Jeep always runs for at least 3-4 minutes before going anywhere. The cold mornings it sits for about ten minutes, that way it is starting to get warm inside also.

Another tip to make your heater more efficient is run a wind jammer inside the soft or hard top. This way you are only having to heat the very front part of the Jeep.

Also having a bag packed with warm clothes food and water is a must. I have enough with me at all times so I could comfortably spend the night in the Jeep if anything was to happen.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Cross. I've figured out the location and have a call list of people I think would make good co-pilots. The auto necessities are on the paper next to the prices. Concerned about the tires I went to the AK state website where it was recommended to bring along 2 spares.

I have 5 OEM tires/wheels sitting in the garage (P215/75R15 I think). Would it make sense to put BFG's All-Terrain T/A KO's on each? I site those because of past experience but also they were recommended as having good puncture resistance for when we start up the Dalton Hwy from Fairbanks. Can someone confirm that recommendation or recommend another tire?

Thanks guys!

G
 
#11 ·
. Can someone confirm that recommendation or recommend another tire?

Thanks guys!

G
I just put on some Bridgestone Blizzaks for the winter - they are grippy bastards! They're very stable in the elements, but I haven't put enough miles on them to comment on tread wear or durability. They got great overall reviews on tirerack.com though. Beats the hell out of the Goodyear Wrangler RT/S I had on there previously.
 
#13 ·
In Maine I lift my carpets and run a layer of insulation between them and the floor. Found that to be a big help. Also check your drain hose for the defroster (not sure what its called). The black hose that hangs of the firewall on the pass side. These fill up and you wear snow! I block my radiator with WALAAA a cardboard box, only exposing a small portion. Learn to drive while sitting on one hand!
 
#14 ·
I live in Calgary AB, and for the last month or so we have been dealing with meters of snowfall as well as -30 (celsius) temperatures. As long as your oil is 5 - 30 and your washer and coolant are up to snuff the big things to remeber are just having a good battery. Even if all your fluids are thick and make cranking hard, a good battery will churn through it and after a wee bit of cranking shell fire up. I have not plugged my jeep in once this winter and havent had a problem starting. One other thing is to make sure your belts are up to snuff. A little bit of cracking on your belts in warm weather is fine, but once your belt freezes up its no longer pliable and you may snap your belt after a starting her up on a cold night (this happened to me the first cold night this year). Also, I take a polaris versa winch with me which is essentially a 1500lb winch, 120V output, as well as a battery booster all in one. Cross was bang on in saying that you must have a decent supply of food and warm clothes in your vehicle - sure it might be warm inside because of the heater, but what happens if you break down? This is all I can think of for now...
 
#15 ·
Gracemely,

Sounds like an awesome trip you've got planned! One thing that I've heard from folks that have lived/worked in sub-zero climates - things that you take for granted normally don't work as well in such cold environments; just as "Duncan71" indicated about the belts.

Here are a couple of suggestions I'd consider:
-- I think I'd pop the drain plug on each diff, the trans, and the X-case to drain out any water that may be laying on the bottom - then top them all off with the correct fluid. This will remove any sediment/water and ensure you that they're up to snuff on fluid levels.

-- I'd also make do a quick inspection of all suspension joints to make sure they're in good condition & I'd grease them just prior to departure.

-- If you haven't in the past 6 months, I'd pull each wheel for a quick inspection of the brakes. No need for a leaky wheel cylinder to get worse out in the middle of AK! I'd also do a quick 4-wheel brake fluid bleed to remove any moisture at the wheel cylinders..... Same goes for purging/bleeding your hydraulic clutch system.

-- If your battery and alternator more than 2yrs old, I'd simply replace them now with premium parts. With as much as you'll likely be using your lights, wipers, heater blower fan, you don't want tired units to give up the ghost with such a work out........

-- I'd do a Rain-X treatment of all my windows inside and out. It will reduce the formation of fog inside and make outside window ice/frost scrapping a tad easier. Replace your wiper blades with premium units and pack a spare wiper blade/arm.

-- I'd throw in a 1st-Aid kit. When it comes to packing drinking water, I wouldn't just pack clear water - I'd pack a plastic jug of Gatorade. It won't freeze up as quickly as clear water would. Nevertheless, make sure it has an inch or so air gap for freeze expansion or it may split the jug and make a mess.

-- I'd have a small tool kit and include a few extra lug nuts, a 10-12ft spool of wire, duct tape, electrical tape, starting fluid, brake fluid, spare tire valve stem guts and removal tool, & a can of radiator stop leak.

-- Check your tire air pressure more often, you can develop rim & stem leaks simply from the cold. Just being colder will also drop your pressure without a having a leak. Include checking the pressure in your spare tire(s).....

-- Pack a 20ft jerk strap and a small shovel..... for obvious reasons.

-- If you don't have one, get a cell phone with a GPS tracker. Talk to your phone service provider and ask if you will have service along the route you plan to take.

Good Luck, have fun, and take some pics if possible!
J-Quad :cheers2:
 
#20 ·
I second the sleeping bag.. I keep one in my rig in ND all winter. A cheap military surplus bag rated for cold works well. They can be rated well below zero.

Also, I don't know how familiar you are with cold weather travel, and I don't know if someone else mentioned it, but so to not make assumptions..

Bring some "heat" to put in your fuel line to keep it from freezing up. Another option, that I use in ND is just burning super unleaded with ethanol, which acts similar to heat. It's a little simpler, but ethanol mixes can vary, so some heat is a good backup if you go that route.
 
#17 ·
Make the shovel metal not plastic, it will chop thru ice crusted snow much more easily. As far as clothes poly pro undergarments, wear wool socks (2 pair), wool pants and shirt (wool wicks moisture from body), Fire starter (trioxane or other solid fuel), storm proof matches (like trick candles once started can't be blown out), something to cook and warm food in). I could go on but search out survival sites on the web. Little mistakes can result in death in wilderness areas.

I put thin (1/8-1/4 inch) silvered on both sides (like space blanket) with plastic air bubbles between layers on my fiberglass roof using liquid nails. Also chase down air leaks into passenger compartment and plug. You find them in the darndest places like the steering column where it tilts (no wonder my hands were always freezing!)
 
#19 ·
I put thin (1/8-1/4 inch) silvered on both sides (like space blanket) with plastic air bubbles between layers on my fiberglass roof using liquid nails.
In case the OP (or anyone else) is interested in getting that, it's found in most home centers (if they don't stock it, they can order it for you). It may vary by region, but the most popular brand of it that I know of is called "Reflectix"

it's not cheap, but it works really well for the given space it takes up.

Regarding engine heaters, there are other types as well besides the freeze plug or the rad hose types...
There are also dipstick heaters, which don't really heat the BLOCK, but it keeps the oil warm enough that it usually won't turn to sludge in the extreme cold. Another oil-based heater is an oil pan heater. Basically, it's a heating pad that mounts (with adhesive, I think) to the bottom (outside) of your oil pan. Same idea as the dipstick heater, just keeping the oil from sludging up in the cold, but I believe the pan heaters work a little better than the stick heaters.

Have a great trip and take LOTS of pics