Any synthetic with high zinc is great for the 4.0. Personally I use Mobil1 high mileage.

 

What about rotella 10w-30?

 

I use Rotella T5 10w30. It works great.

I'm gonna say this before someone else does: This has been asked probably 2000 times on this forum and it - A: Results in guys telling new guys to search, B: Results in most guys saying they're using what I use and a few using other things.

Our 4.0's do awesome with heavy duty oils, as long as their a proper viscosity.

 

And 135,000 isn't high mileage. I'm at 228,000 right now. Bought it at a little over 213,000 in January. I've tried a bunch of different oils, Mobil 1 HM, MaxLife, T5, Pennzoil HM. All seem about the same for engine noise. It's just a noisy engine. Filters used either Purolator gold or Mopar filters. Right now I'm trying QS Defy since I've heard good things about it but so far it's been even noisier than the others. I've giving it a chance to replace the layer of oil on the internals from the other oil so we'll see if it gets better.

 

I noticed the original mopar filter has larger holes in it and gives my 4.0 about 8 pounds more oil pressure

 

I've seen Rotella T5 10w30 mentioned a lot. What would be recommended for a winter oil?

 

Some use 5w30 but 10w30 is as per spec. I've been using synthetic since the new engine went in. My old XJ used to use 10w40. There are a lot of advantages going with synthetic, especially if you live in a winter climate for few (or more like half LOL) of the year. The viscosity stays the same in cold weather, where as dino is thicker before it gets warmed up and moving. This is what puts wear on the engine in winter as it takes longer to get the oil up and flowing longer where synthetic is ready to go. As well, switching to synthetic can cause seals to seep. This isn't because of the oil per say, but it cleans quite well, and as it removes buildup inside the engine, some of that can be stopping seals from leaking so as it's removed (cleaned) you maybe leaking. To me it's not a big deal. Just means the seal is old and probably should be replaced.

Using synthetic, many say you can go upwards of 10,000km between changes, but I was reading an article that regardless, do oil changes as per the owners manual. I still change every 5000km regardless. If I go past a few hundred, I'm not over concerned though. Other things is going longer with the synthetic, you need a filter that is designed to go longer as well I've been told, but there's not a lot out there, at least around here. NAPA gold and silver filters I've used before for other jeeps I've had and they've been great! FRAM filters though on the 4.0 should be avoided. I've heard and read so many stories of issues with oil pressure and the like due to using them. Cut open they're pretty cheap *** made compared to the NAPA ones.

 

All good information, but I have to say, ONE article is not the leading authority on how long you can go before you need to change the oil. Oil companies are not going to tell you to use less of their expensive product if it turns out they could be making more money off you by telling you to change your oil twice as often.

There have been LOTS of guys that have done oil analysis, and I'm fairly certain you'll find longer intervals are A-Ok as long as a top quality oil and filter are used.

 

Of course, but the article wasn't by an oil company. Of course they'll be biased. Article was on engines, and how engines now are designed and built for using synthetic and going longer between oil changes. The premise is that they are different than older engines. What really happens when older engines are let to run longer between oil changes, and are there any negative effects to doing this? There's no definitive studies on it that I'm aware of, but the thought was err on side of caution and stick with what the manufacturer intervals are, not what an oil company says you can do. In that way, you won't have any issues. Would definitely nice to see an actual proper comparison done to see what, if any effects there are.

My biggest reason for going synthetic is keeps engine cleaner which is always good, so want it done from day 1, and even more so that regardless of temp, viscosity stays the same so doesn't wear the engine like dino oil does in the winter time. Makes having to have a block heater a mute point.

 

I think im going to use the rotella T 5 10w-30 . And i was thinking about using a wix oil filter, i currently have a k&n oil filter on my jeep now and it seems to be doing a good job. Wont know until i take it off and cut it open and look at the dirt it has collected

 

All filters are going to filter unless there is some significant problem in the bypass valve. A visual inspection really isn't going to tell you much. Wix is a great filter. I also use Mann from time to time.

cykaaro - Dude, one more post and you hit 2000! I remember having to plug in our cars in Northern Minnesota when I was a kid. That and one clear memory I have of changing out a battery in my '87 Buick when it was -10F. That was unbearable. No gloves, either.

 

So where's the dancing girls? LOL

I did it with my ZJ as well, until I changed to synthetic. As kid our car was always plugged in, in the winter. Winters a real joke compared to when we were kids, but there are those bitterly cold days still.

 

As far as oil change intervals go, it's always been much debated. I always stick to manufacturer recommendations and I've never had any problems. I use Mobil 1 10w-30 and a NAPA gold oil filter. Only at 110k, so it's still a spring chicken.

 

And that was basically the conclusion, regardless of using dino or synthetic.

 

how long would be the interval before oil change? for rotella T5 10w-30

 

This thread is 2 yrs. old but it's relevant today.
These high mileage oils make your seals swell to help prevent leaks. If you want to just protect the engine go with a synthetic or synthetic blend. If you can, look into Wix filters. They were rated the best in protection by some studies and use the correct weight for the temperature.

The change interval is going to change with how you use your vehicle. Towing? Offroading, city driving, lead foot?
Under normal conditions, I don't let mine get over 4,000 between changes and I use full synthetic. If you want to analyze your oils life potential, you can send it out when it gets close to it's changing date and they can tell you how much more you can stretch it.
I also don't stop at at the engine. The diffs, xfer case, and the trans also get the synthetic treatment. My old Jeep 255,000 on it before the trans finally went and the engine was starting to knock. Outside of fluid changes, the drive train never needed servicing.

 

I think the consensus is to follow the manufacturers advice regardless of oil type. Check your manual. You may be surprised at the recommended interval.
And even though everyone seems to hate Fram, I've never had any problems with them. I change the oil on all four of my vehicles every 5k miles. So its nice that I can get them cheap and conveniently. I even use Walmart oil on the one I change the most often (5yrs.old with 175k).

 

A broken in 4.0 will run well on almost anything as long as you stay with the manual's grades (10w30 or 5w30 cool months). That said I do prefer "thick for grade" oils in the 4.0 like Rotella or Pennzoil High Mileage. Castrol High Mileage and Mobil 1 High Mileage are on the thick side as well.

 

Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic 5w-30 with Liquid Titanium. No challengers to this lube!:tea:

 

Wow, I haven't heard of anyone using Kendall Oil for a long time. It was good stuff back in the day, don't know much about it now. Used to use that in my first car when I started driving. I don't even know where you get it anymore. I used to have a camp in northern PA, the Kendall refinery was just north of us in Bradford.

As far as intervals go, stick with factory intervals. I don't care what the oil says it can do, I don't trust filters to take that kind of mileage.

 

This thread is 2 yrs. old but it's relevant today. These high mileage oils make your seals swell to help prevent leaks. If you want to just protect the engine go with a synthetic or synthetic blend. If you can, look into Wix filters. They were rated the best in protection by some studies and use the correct weight for the temperature. The change interval is going to change with how you use your vehicle. Towing? Offroading, city driving, lead foot? Under normal conditions, I don't let mine get over 4,000 between changes and I use full synthetic. If you want to analyze your oils life potential, you can send it out when it gets close to it's changing date and they can tell you how much more you can stretch it. I also don't stop at at the engine. The diffs, xfer case, and the trans also get the synthetic treatment. My old Jeep 255,000 on it before the trans finally went and the engine was starting to knock. Outside of fluid changes, the drive train never needed servicing.

Using a full synthetic oil and running it only on 4,000 OCIs is a waste of money in my eyes

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I agree, and I also dont believe in running any oil in a 4.0 longer than 4000. Some motors are just quick interval motors and should only get conventional. (Jeep 4.0/2.5, Ford 5.4L).

 

Rotella 10w30 and wix/napa 1085.

I made it to 197k before #6 piston decided to drop a skirt. It was spotless on the inside with no real signs of wear. The only reason I didn't just slap a used piston in was that it tried to compress a piece of piston. That made a mess of the combustion chamber.

 

Man Im sure Im going to hear it with my post but... Ive been using Amsoil diesel oil and their filter in both my WJ and in my wifes liberty and I only change the oil once a year or 25K miles....Usually a year is quicker then the 25K miles...This has saved me a ton in money and time...

However if I were only doing store bought oil(not special order), I would go to walmart and get the rotella there and get a purolator filter...

 

You're brave for posting this! :laugh:

Do you change the filter a few times throughout that 25k? Have you ever tested your oil? I'd be curious what the results are as I've heard Amsoil, when used properly, can go for quite a long interval.

 

25,000 mile old oil??? Not for my motor! Even with my factory OCI being 12,000miles (CRD) I would not double it....you are going 6 times over the factory 3000m OCI for your engine. That cant be a good thing no matter how good your oil/filter combo!!

 

I know there is a lot of skepticism but with all due respect I probably have more miles on my engine then you do on your crd ( I have close to 500K kms for you metric people) and I have more on it then on my own crd. For what its worth the diesel oil extends changes to 50K miles for diesel engines. For what its worth, as long as you do oil analysis you can normally extend oil changes. This is if you are not doing severe duty, towing, dust conditions etc...They cut interval time down dramatically...

Just to be clear, I do rarely hit the 25k miles in a year but I do only the single oil change per year..

 

Man Im sure Im going to hear it with my post but... Ive been using Amsoil diesel oil and their filter in both my WJ and in my wifes liberty and I only change the oil once a year or 25K miles....Usually a year is quicker then the 25K miles...This has saved me a ton in money and time... However if I were only doing store bought oil(not special order), I would go to walmart and get the rotella there and get a purolator filter...

Kudos! I've done 25k at times as well. Ran it for 27 years now. Always with filter changes as required and oil analysis. Facts are facts. No sense discarding when your oil at 15k is better than Dino at 2k. I've been lazy for years however and just change mine out once/ year with filter changes as 6/mo. Guess I'm getting lazy.... Comes with old age.

 

I have a 1997 grand cherokee laredo 6 cylinder 4.0l and bought it in 2005 with only 50,0000 miles on it,
i have owned it now 12 years and has 218,000 miles on it. Because of the age of the jeep, up to now, which is 20 years old. When i change my oil, i use 20/40 or 10/40 and in really hot weather i use 20/50 grade oil, why, i drive a lot to reduce friction and wear and tear. My jeep still runs smooth. I change my on regular intervals, like three months.

 

Rotella 15-40. High zinc, thicker for the age of the motor (250k), and only 13$ a gallon.

 

Just changed mine, used the Rotella T5 10w 30 and a Baldwin filter. Currently at 104,000 Was using Mobil 1 synthetic but man that stuff is just getting to pricey for me.

 

Just changed mine, used the Rotella T5 10w 30 and a Baldwin filter. Currently at 104,000 Was using Mobil 1 synthetic but man that stuff is just getting to pricey for me.

+100 on the Baldwin filter.

 

I use Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w30 with a Purolator filter. Mileage is in my sig.

 

MaxLife has been my go to oil for years. Lots of good additives our older engines need to keep going.

 

And what would those additives be that others don't have?