[Fropleyqk]

I've got the same tapping with 40k miles. My 01 sahara 4.0 did the same thing. I've tried switching all kinds of oils and nothing really does anything. I've just chalked it up to a 4.0 thing. There are tons of these threads here and no one has ever come up with a "here's the fix" answer. These threads always turn into oil debates then float off into the depths of old threads until someone starts another one.

I can tell you that out of all of the ones I've read, I've never read "ticking is getting worse" or "ticking then boom". Mines ticked from the passenger side since almost day 1 on both 4.0s.

 

[tjwrangler99]

5w probably wont hurt but these engines are designed for 10w at the thinnest.

so much for my user manual!

 

[usmcshep]

hi all

you are running too light an oil, you should run 10w-30w, unless the sticker under hood recommends somethings else. 5w probably wont hurt but these engines are designed for 10w at the thinnest.

you might want to read up on oil, the first number, the 10W doesn't mean its a lighter oil. the second number, the 30 or 40 is how thick the actual oil is and is the only one that acually matters, the W number just says how low the temperature can go before the oil thickness starts to change, ideally you want a 0W number. Maybe I'm mixing something up, but you can read up about it at www.bobistheoilguy.com.

Oil 101 quotes:

"The greatest confusion is because of the way motor oils are labeled. It is an old system and is confusing to many people. I know the person is confused when they say that a 0W-30 oil is too thin for their engine because the old manual says to use 10W-30. This is wrong."

"We left off discussing that a 0W-30 grade oil is not thinner than a 10W-30 oil. They both have the same thickness at operating temperature. The 0W-30 simply does not get as thick on cooling as the 10W-30. Both are still way to thick to lubricate an engine at startup.

I have heard several people say that Porsche specifically prohibits a 0W-XX engine oil, that it is too thin. Now here is the partial truth I spoke of earlier. We will discuss multi-grade oils. Earlier we said that a straight 30 grade oil has a thickness of 10 at the normal operating temperature of your engine. The multi-grade oils 0W-30 and 10W-30 also have a thickness of 10 at 212 F.

The difference is at 75 F, your startup temperature in the morning.

Oil type... Thickness at 75 F...Thickness at 212 F

Straight 30...... 250......................10
10W-30............100......................10
0W-30..............40 ......................10

Straight 10........30....................... 6"

 

[Cannonball]

I have found that ticking at start up that goes away shortly after starting could be a cheap oil filter.... Some of the cheap oil filters have poor or no check valves (anti drain back) in them and when sitting the oil all drains back into the pan and it takes a short time to pump up the lifters for proper clearance and to stop the ticking.
I have 52K on my 2003 and 48K on my 2004 Rubicons and they both started ticking shortly after I changed oil..... I used some filters from Fleet Farm too. These were a name brand extra guard filter....

I discussed this with some friends and mechanics all told me get either OEM filters or WIX filters.... so I did. Ticking upon start up went away as soon as I switched filters..... had the same oil in em too.

Now regarding the oil viscosity.....
My Porsche manual says,
for synthetic oil:
temps above 50 use 10w40 15w40 or 15w50
temps below 50 use 10w40 10w30 or 5w30

for mineral oils:
temps above 50 use 15w40 20w40 20w50
temps below 50 use 15w40 10w30 10w40
temps below 14 use 10w30 5w30

Now mind you these are air cooled engines too and dont have a water jacket to maintain engine temps they need the oil to cool the engine also not just lubricate it. My porsche takes 16 quarts of oil at a filter/oil change and again the cheap filters with no check valves let all the oil drain back thru the turbo into the exhaust.... found this out the hard way! 993 TT had no anti siphon traps in their oil lines used the oil filters to stop this..... There however is an aftermarket check valve kit that prevents it from happening and I have installed them too just in case. Its a pain to have to wash out the exhaust when it has multiple quarts of oil laying in it.

CB

 

[tjwrangler99]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1

Oil god ^^

Just read his 101 section.

I would use 0W-30 if it was a decent price.

 

[Ross00TJ]

As long as we are tossing in oil articles, here is the Engine Oil and Oiling Bible: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Oiling/, more than you ever wanted to know about Engine oil.

That said, start running Rotella T5 10W-30 and a Purolator PureOne filter, Wix filter or other comparable filter.

Just my thoughts.

 

[Heath]

I'm running 7qts VR1 20/50 with a Motorcraft FL1A filter. When I picked this jeep up a couple of months ago it ticked loud as all get out, and the dealer had just changed the oil. As soon as I cranked it with the VR1, it was dead silent. Between that and tightening up my exhaust collector bolts, my rig doesn't even sound like a jeep anymore.

 

[epeck87]

have noisy lifters, can anyone help out with causes, solutions? Are there any additives I can use? Right now I'm running royal purple 5W-30, should I switch to a thicker oil?

earmuffs

 

[Cannonball]

I'm running 7qts VR1 20/50 with a Motorcraft FL1A filter. When I picked this jeep up a couple of months ago it ticked loud as all get out, and the dealer had just changed the oil. As soon as I cranked it with the VR1, it was dead silent. Between that and tightening up my exhaust collector bolts, my rig doesn't even sound like a jeep anymore.

7 Quarts???? Isn't that 1 quart over filled?

CB

 

[Heath]

Not with the big filter, and if you drain the old oil till it totally stops coming out.

 

[Cannonball]

I run a big 2qt filter on my 406 SB in my YJ-5 and its huge.... hanging as low as the oil pan.

I didnt know anyone made a BIG oil filter for the 4.0........ isnt it close to engine mounts etc? or AC condernser or something. I remember it being tight as all heck in mine with the Kilby pump, dual batterys etc in there too.....

But Im going to look for it and if I can get one to fit its going on!

Thanks for the info!

CB

 

[Heath]

Motorcraft FL1A. Not close to anything.

 

[Ross00TJ]

Purolator PL30001.

 

[lauderdalechad]

you could always try one of the aluminum valve covers from quadratec...cost about $100 but they look ok and im sure its thicker material there for more insulation from the valvetrain noise.

 

[Ross00TJ]

you could always try one of the aluminum valve covers from quadratec...cost about $100 but they look ok and im sure its thicker material there for more insulation from the valvetrain noise.

Or just get over it and go on with life, if that doesn't work sell your Jeep and buy a Camry, you don't deserve it if you can't handle all it's quirks. I'll pay you 2,500 for it.

That said, I seriously recommend switching to an HDEO oil like Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, Valvoline VR-1, and a good oil filter. May not solve the noisy valvetrain, but it is a Jeep Thing, hopefully you understand (if not, see first paragraph). :laugh:

Just my thoughts.

 

[GreenDevil]

you might want to read up on oil, the first number, the 10W doesn't mean its a lighter oil. the second number, the 30 or 40 is how thick the actual oil is and is the only one that acually matters, the W number just says how low the temperature can go before the oil thickness starts to change, ideally you want a 0W number. Maybe I'm mixing something up, but you can read up about it at www.bobistheoilguy.com.

The W number isn't how low the temperature can go before the oil thickness starts to change. The two numbers are viscosity ratings at two different temperatures. The W means it is the viscosity rating at 0 degrees fahrenheit. The second number (if I remember correctly) is the viscosity at 212 degrees fahrenheit.

 

[Ross00TJ]

The W number isn't how low the temperature can go before the oil thickness starts to change. The two numbers are viscosity ratings at two different temperatures. The W means it is the viscosity rating at 0 degrees fahrenheit. The second number (if I remember correctly) is the viscosity at 212 degrees fahrenheit.

Correct, obviously the lower number the better it will flow but with less volume as well, it's not cut and dry as to which grade of oil to use and varies by engine but for the 4.0 5W-30 to 15W-40 will all work just fine, the 4.0 isn't really picky about the grade of oil just as long as there's 6qts in there and it has some sort of ZDDP.

 

[Cannonball]

I use 20/50 oil year round and always let it warm up a minute or so longer when its below zero..... but then I need more hear to drive too lol. Creature of old habbit I guess been doing that since 1973.

CB

 

[GreenDevil]

Correct, obviously the lower number the better it will flow but with less volume as well, it's not cut and dry as to which grade of oil to use and varies by engine but for the 4.0 5W-30 to 15W-40 will all work just fine, the 4.0 isn't really picky about the grade of oil just as long as there's 6qts in there and it has some sort of ZDDP.

Yeah, in my high performance engine design class (note: it was mainly geared towards drag racing), we were always told to run the thinnest oil possible without oil contamination and metal-to-metal contact.

 

[Sundowner]

you could always try one of the aluminum valve covers from quadratec...cost about $100 but they look ok and im sure its thicker material there for more insulation from the valvetrain noise.

No, it's thicker because it's cast aluminum and not stamped sheet metal. Also, more/thicker material doesn't always directly equate into more sound insulation. Sonic properties don't work that way.

With that said, it'd be an interesting experiment. I say to try it. :thumbsup: