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U0120-00: Lost Communication With Starter/Generator Control Module

21K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  simonkorneliussen  
#1 ·
I am on vacation at the moment, and writting thus on a mobile phone with very dodgy signal, so please bear with any mistakes.

My 2011 JGC 3.0CRD Limited (UK spec) has decided to throw a fit. A few weeks back, sitting in heavy traffic, the sort where you move a cars lenght, stop for 30 seconds, then move another cars length, I heard the engine fan come on, and noticed for the first time the engine temp had actually risen to the half way point. My car seems to normally only sit about a third of the way up the guage. After about 1/2 an hour of this traffic, there was a chime and the red battery symbol came up on the dash. I have fitted a voltmeter to the car, so checked that, but it displayed the normal 14.2volt. The traffic cleared, and as soon as the temp dropped the light went out. It did it once more a bit later in a second smaller jam, and again cleared as soon as I got moving.

I got home, and checked the cables as well as I could on the alternator, and also checked the battery connections. My volt meter is connected straight to the battery terminals, so I know I am reading the voltage at the battery, and reading 14.2 volts tells me the alternator is still working

Drove for a few weeks, and there was no repeat, also no major traffic jams.

Purchased BlueDriver app, which arrived the day before I was going on vaccation towing our 2 ton caravan. Connected it up and had a look, but there were a few codes showing and I had no idea how long they had been there, so I decided the best thing was to clear them and start from scratch.

Onca again, on the motorway, but this time towing the caravan I got caught in traffic, and again the temp rose a bit, then the ping, and the battery light. Again as soon as I got moving it cleared. It did it once more while we were crawling down some very narrow lanes. This time I had the BlueDriver app running, and was watching the volts, which remained constant at 14.2 volts on both my meter and the app.

When I stopped, I read the codes, and had a few, but the most notable was "U0120-00: Lost Communication With Starter/Generator Control Module". There are a couple more, but it's hard to cut and paste on the phone, and I don't think they are related.

Cleared the codes again, and the vacation has been great, with the car behaving... until today. Today driving solo round the very thin Welsh roads dight sering, and suddenly there was the dreaded ping and read battery symbol. Today though it was like a pinball game, pinging multiple times, sometimes leaving the light on, sometimes clearing almost straight away. Still the voltages were constant at 14.2volt. This went on for quite some time, then stopped again, with no further occurrences for the remainder of our day out. My wife commented that it almost seemed to be related to the roughness of the road.

Anyone have any clues where to look? Where is the "Starter/Generator Control Module" is located so I can look for a loose connection?


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#2 ·
U0120-00 is set when the PCM isn't receiving bus messages from the generator. The diesel engine control module is part of the generator. The generator used with diesel engines is internally regulated where gas engine generators are regulated by the PCM. For the diesel, the generator and PCM communicate for diagnostics, etc. I suspect, if the bus is interrupted the PCM will light the battery lamp, although the generator will continue to function independently in its default state. The voltmeter seems to indicate its functioning.

The most probable causes is a bad connection in the LIN bus, the Generator itself, or the PCM. I don't have a diesel charging system diagram handy, but there is a link around here someplace to a site that has them. I would guess you will find a pair of signal wires running from the generator to the PCM. You may also have an intermittent ground. Often a battery light at high temp is coolant leaking onto the belt and it slips.

Given that the fault seems to occur at high temp, perhaps the generator is getting hot and stops working right. In gas engines the PCM monitors charging current and voltage, but in a diesel I think its simply driven by status messages from the generator.

Looks like you will need to move the coolant recovery bottle, fan, lower radiator hose to get at the generator should you want to pull it.

By the way, it seems its normal for the diesel to run hotter than what may be comfortable to you when towing.
 
#3 ·
Thanks so much for the reply, I think that should wait until we get back home. I will clear the faults and also make a note of the others, as at least 1 is also a canbus error in the passenger door module, what ever that does. Sometimes I think ignorance is bliss when you have no way to read the codes. Lol

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#4 ·
Just a small update...



with the warmer weather, the error is comming up more often, so I decided to start the fault finding process. :rolleyes:



I disconnected the battery, then removed the coolant expansion tank. I then went round as many plugs and sockets as I could get to, released them, checked how clean they were, and then sprayed them with some contact cleaner.



I then used silicon grease round all the seals, and put them all back together. I have to say they were very clean to start with, so I dont think that there are any connector issues it that part of the engine bay.:thumbsup:



While they were disconnected, and the tank out the way, it was a bit easier to get the the alternator, so I checked the earth and feed were clean, and tight, all good.



I then went to disconnect the 3 pin plug at the back of the alternator, but it just fell off as soon as I touched it. I discovered that it just slipped on and off, with no apparent locking mechanism. :surprise:



When I looked into the 3 pin plug (which only has one wire) I could see that there was a bit of plastic jamed into the locking mechanism. At this point, I had a mild panic attack, as that presumably means the catch has snapped off of the alternator connector, which would mean a new alternator. I started to look to see if there was a way that I could fabricate some sort of mechanism to secure it, and while giving that some thought, I decided to remove the bit of plastic in the locking mechanism. Unfortunatally, it pinged out and vanished somewhere across the driveway, so I could not look at it and carry out an autopsy.


Anyway, I decided to push the plug back on, and it went on a lot further, and snapped into place.


I am hoping that may be the problem, and I have cured it... Famous last words..


I will drive it around and keep my fingers crossed I have found the problem, and update once I know.