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Discussion starter · #41 ·
What's that sapota do?

Where did they put shims????

-----JEEPFELLER
Between crank case (right word, I'm a redneck) and the Flywheel, ha. to make up for what's gone and get it closer to the "clutch".. I thought it was crazy, yeah, never heard that.

Wasted time watching some videos sitting at the airport.
 
shims go between the crank flange and and crank face of the flywheel. It is mainly for those with hydraulic internal slave cylinders that don't have any or very very little adjustment so you don't run out of travel halfway through the clutch material. You have plenty of adjustment with your mechanical clutch fork, you shouldn't run out of travel before you wear the clutch material down.
 
Something I would not worry about, I'm guessing that very little material was taken off.

I've never run across that being a problem or on any one else's.

-----JEEPFELLER
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Okay, so once again I’m down the rabbit hole, ha. Every project, turns into a full take apart of every dad fun thing connected.

Reminder, I’be been trying to get rid of a wicked shudder at takeoff. Got a new Couble Cardan drive shaft, helped some.

I’m replacing the clutch, and everything is caked one greasy East Texas red dirt.

Flywheel scorched so I get it resurfaced.
Then ring gear has chips replace it.
The pilot bushing is obviously reemed out, that’ll be replaced.
Now I’m cleaning the bell housing and when I get down to aluminum….Easter egg time.
I find a wicked crack.
So this will now be replaced, ha.

I also bought MORE motor mounts to put on, so can replace the RMS and pan without removing, and I wanted these ha.
No….its not a full rebuild…well, maybe, I don’t really know at this dad gun point ha.

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Sounds like you need to see if your horse shoes haven't been facing downwards.

Reckon that got He!! damaged from stupid abuse?

I wouldn't attempt to have that welded back, It'd probably crack again.

I think me and you and a trip to Las Vegas is a No Go at this time.

Sorry about your adventure.

Once you get it going again, you'll be proud as heck!

You just cannot beat having a Jeep (or two)

Keep us posted on progress!

----JEEPFELLER
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
View attachment 4329140


Sounds like you need to see if your horse shoes haven't been facing downwards.

Reckon that got He!! damaged from stupid abuse?

I wouldn't attempt to have that welded back, It'd probably crack again.

I think me and you and a trip to Las Vegas is a No Go at this time.

Sorry about your adventure.

Once you get it going again, you'll be proud as heck!

You just cannot beat having a Jeep (or two)

Keep us posted on progress!

----JEEPFELLER

Yeah....just part of it. I've got my 2005 TJ that's a blast to drive, so I'm not without a Jeep to get in the sun, ha.

No, not going to weld. I've come to live by something, If you don't have the time to do it right the first time, you'll find the time to do it right the second time, ha.

I'm going to post separately, of course I'm seeing more than one version of the dad gum bell housing, ha.
 
A proper weld on that would be stronger than the original...........do it!
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
So first, y'all have helped me a ton. I've got a few threads on these items, but I wanted to keep this thread up to date on steps, because If you look at the first post, a year ago (work and finishing my 05 TJ, and my last one in College at Texas and having some fun)....I'm now on my CJ5, I want it going again, ha. Apologies if they're repetitive, but this is a good "Clutch Chatter" thread from the direction you sent me, it's all encompassing, ha.

These were all the things you guys said might be the issue....I HOPED it was the drive shaft, I just did all that with my TJ, so I just got that done and fixed the Trans mount in the spring...No Joy, ha. Should have listened to y'all....and done every step. By the way, EVERY thing y'all said, was a problem. So, I'm fired up to post updates, because I think I'm weeks.....maybe 3 from being done.....I hope.

So reading what y'all said it can be, from front to back:
1. Bad Motor Mounts (Mine are bad)
2. Leaking Oil fouling flywheel/clutch (mine leaks, looks like pan and RMS at minimum)
3. Flywheel scorched/warped (My fly wheel scorched now that I see it, big time)
4. Wallowed pilot bushing (Mine is now that I see it)
5. Loose Bell Housing Bolts (Mine weren't....BUT...my bell housing had a crack, big one, super nice.
6. Bad trans Mount and Torque bar (Mine was wasted and the torque bracket bent and bolt and bushings melted to crap)
7. Incorrect Drive Shaft, doesn't have Double Cardan DS but the perches on the axle are welded to have them point at the TC output. So this needs a new DC DS.

I got the new drive shaft in like I mentioned, Tom Wood's Double Cardan, I put in a new TC output seal (the housing had taken a hit and needed some filing to make it not have a bulge, and used Anearobic Sealant. A new yoke, and the drive Shaft looks good.

I put a new TC mount as well, and got rid of the bent bracket. I fixed the original and got it painted up now, it will go back in, the new used one the torque bolt hole didn't line up, ugh. When I put back together it will be all good.

I got MORE Bomb Proof Motor mounts, i figure if I'm changing the mounts, do this, that way if i screw up the oil pan gasket or need it off again, no more mounts in the way.

I pulled the pan, and got it sanded and just painted, and painted the dust shield and clutch check plate. just the side that will kind of show, all AMC Metallic Blue.

I got a new/used Bell Housing since mine was cracked, that was an adventure in getting 3 shipped to get 1 that had the correct bolt alignment for the T176...then 3 of 4 bolts holes were stripped. I used Helicoils and they are nice again.

Now I need to change the RMS and put the pan back up. Those are on target for this weekend, and then as much as I can get to and still watch the Longhorns and every other game on CFB ha. I need a TV in the garage...I think, ha.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Got the flywheel resurfaced
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Discussion starter · #52 ·
Put the new Motor Mounts in.


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Discussion starter · #53 · (Edited)
Got AMC Blue Metallic and hit the dust cover, clutch check plate and oil pan this morning. It should dry by Say Morning to go back on.


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Discussion starter · #54 · (Edited)
I straightened the bent torque bracket.
Painted it and the clutch dork.

I soaked both of those in EvapoRust for a day. They came out super clean, paint and look new.

I took each pan bolt 1 by 1 and wire brush and wire wheeled the top and cleaned with brake clean. Threads to, and put them in their spot on the box and painted the heads Krylon semi flay black.

I think I’ll like them black on the AMC Blue pan.
Either way, they are cleaned up some.

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Discussion starter · #55 ·
Used the wire cup on the grinder and a couple different wire wheels on the drill to get the skid as clean as possible.

Krylon Semi Flat on it as well.

I think I’ll grind the frame rails of any surface rust, there isn’t mincing spots, and shoot this paint on there while I can literally sit under the jeep in the tunnel ha.



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I recall wire wheeling my skidplate to get the spray on rock guard off. That took quite a bit of time! Finished it with POR15 and was really pleased with the results. I clean and paint everything I take off so it looks just a little bit better next time.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I see a nice shiny pristine new flywheel surface. But a picture of the old clutch cover/pressure plate.
New clutch is still in the plan?
Oh, I have a new in the box LUK clutch. 100% new.
 
Double check the pilot bushing. The one that came in my Luk kit wasn’t right for a 304 and I had to order a different one through Novak
 
owns 1986 JEEP CJ7 Base
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