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TX CJ5 Restore- 304 Shudder at Takeoff - Clutch Chatter and More

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4.8K views 85 replies 19 participants last post by  HandsOn  
#1 · (Edited)
I'm updating this thread, lot of steps. So my CJ5 feels like a Saturn 5 on takeoff on a hill especially. If I Rev higher RPMs it smooths it some. Feels like the Jeep will come apart, ugh.

so step one was to fix the rear drive shaft get a double Cardan. Did that, and 50% correction maybe. Needed it, had another thread on that, but it was well worth it and needed.

So reading what it can be, from front to back:
1. Bad Motor Mounts (Mine are bad)
2. Leaking Oil fouling flywheel/clutch (mine leaks, looks like pan and RMS at minimum)
3. Flywheel scorched/warped (My fly wheel scorched now that I see it, big time)
4. Wallowed pilot bushing (Mine is now that I see it)
5. Loose Bell Housing Bolts (Mine weren't....BUT...my bell housing had a crack, big one, super nice.
6. Bad trans Mount and Torque bar (Mine was wasted and the torque bracket bent and bolt and bushings melted to crap)
7. Incorrect Drive Shaft, doesn't have Double Cardan DS but the perches on the axle are welded to have them point at the TC output. So this needs a new DC DS.


So started looking to make a plan (I’m weird, will lay on crawler and just look and think options).

This trans Mount, whatever this 1 bolt item is, don’t know the official name, on Jeepsterman it looks like Stud and Insulator.

That’s looks like toast, not sure what a good one looks like, and I can hand spin the washers under the nut under the skid, so pretty sure that does little to nothing.

Also, there is oil all over at the RMS location. It blows all over, so it can be other leaks, but looks to me that the block is clean and not real wet above near the valve covers, so not an issue.

I feel like a RMS, Clutch job with resurfacing flywheel and new trans mounts are the next phase. Look about right to y’all?

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#2 ·
Mounts could use replacement but shouldn't shudder that much. Your u-bolts on the springs are tight right? My new u-bolts said 60 pounds torque.

Clutch could cause some shuddering. Out of curiosity do you notice clutch slipping or pedal grabbing higher and higher?
 
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#7 ·
Mounts could use replacement but shouldn't shudder that much. Your u-bolts on the springs are tight right? My new u-bolts said 60 pounds torque.

Clutch could cause some shuddering. Out of curiosity do you notice clutch slipping or pedal grabbing higher and higher?
The clutch isn't slipping that I can tell. The massive amount of the shudder was from the rear drive shaft setup. I'm wondering if that shook any mounts free.

I shimmed the front and replaced u bolts so I know those are good, and funny enough I've got new rear u bolts sitting because I got a set, and just haven't installed. It feels way more front of the Jeep than back, but a variable that is easy enough to eliminate next time in the garage.
 
#5 ·
The weird shackle is for a traction bar. Allows the suspension to flex without binding, but keep the axle from twisting. Once the the tcase drop gets removed and the pinion pointed correct at the tcase output, will need the axle end re-aligned if still needed depending on axle wrap.
 
#6 ·
So my CJ5 feels like a Saturn 5 on takeoff on a hill especially. If I Rev higher RPMs it smooths it some.
Clutch jutter on takeoff:
Bad motor mount(s)
One or more broken body mounts.
Bad clutch assembly, either worn , contaminated, or defective
Excessively tall gearing
Bad driving habits (riding the clutch)
 
#9 ·
Clutch chatter. If you checked all the things you listed, then maybe the clutch needs to be looked at. I had a 64 cJ-6 with 4 cylinder with terrible chatter. Turned out that the clutch disc had torque springs that were broken.
 
#10 ·
Another vote for clutch chatter. Look in and see how much is left on clutch plate, as looking at drive time under the jeep in your pics, looks like its been a minute since any major work has been needed. She is giving you good service for sure.
But need to point out something I noticed in pics. Clutch fork through bell housing looks a bit low in the opening. As I understand these are usually more centered?

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#12 ·
You mean here? They’re supposed to be centers in that opening and not in the bottom?

That I don’t know. I bought this going on 2 years ago, and it was a rebuild title (don’t care) and had been sitting. Deep East Texas Jeep (I lived there, not a cut down, just some redneck mechanicary sometimes, ha.

Jokes aside, yeah it’s been driven and this is after a first run witb a pressure wash and engine degreaser to work on theTC.

Thr T176 shifts no issues at all there,all good input, much appreciated.

anyone else seen that’s clutch fork like that?

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#11 ·
Another vote for clutch chatter. Assuming it stops as soon as soon as youre pedal is all the way out, I had the same thing. Did the Tom Woods D/C driveshaft and eventually replaced my clutch. I pulled out the original clutch/pressure plate. Hasn't chattered once since the new clutch.
 
#13 ·
Okay, weather is great, so went and drove around a good bit now that the driveshaft is eliminated as a part of the shudder issue completely.

It's very much clutch chatter. I have a steep driveway, if I work the clutch up the driveway at all, the fenders feel like they're coming off, ha. If I let the clutch out completely at the bottom and just drive up, no issue at all. Sitting at a light, flat even, same thing. Reason, could be oil, wear, who knows. Either way, I'm in for a new clutch. I'll be replacing the trans mount etc while its out for good measure.

I have the 304 and T176, which I'm confident didn't come together, so I can't "look up" the clutch. Does anyone know what clutch to look for here? I'm thinkin LUK but for the T176? Or the 304? I think the T176 and 4.2 specific from what little I see, just curious if anyone's got direct experience?
 
#15 ·
I have the 304 and T176, which I'm confident didn't come together, so I can't "look up" the clutch. Does anyone know what clutch to look for here? I'm thinkin LUK but for the T176? Or the 304? I think the T176 and 4.2 specific from what little I see, just curious if anyone's got direct experience?
I just replaced the clutch in m 304/T5 combo, which isnt a factory set-up either. They told me to go with the transmission for the clutch kit, although theres little difference in any of them and the engine for the pilot bearing.
I went with the LUK 01-017 clutch kit and a 304/T5 specific pilot bearing from Novak.
 
owns 1986 JEEP CJ7 Base
#16 ·
Yep, my 80 CJ7 is factory 304/176...

That single stud/isolator isn't your main trans mount. It's an additional "torque" isolator.

The actual trans mount will be centered under tranny on same bracket and be rectangular. You can see part of it in the pics.

If you're doing bushings and all, I highly recommend M.O.R.E. bombproof motor mounts.
 
#20 ·
My clutch chattered like crazy on start up, and even on downshifts.
Here's what my flywheel looked like before

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And here it is after a $50 resurface

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And here's the new Luk clutch

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Clutch has been smooth as can be ever since the replacement
 
#22 ·
My clutch chattered like crazy on start up, and even on downshifts.
Here's what my flywheel looked like before

View attachment 4266603

And here it is after a $50 resurface

View attachment 4266604

And here's the new Luk clutch

View attachment 4266605

Clutch has been smooth as can be ever since the replacement
Alright, now you’re just rubbing it in show off! Ha!! I’m super jealous.

I have the LUK in hand, got it for Father’s Day. I’m finishing (well this phase) of my 05TJ before I get back to pulling all this on the CJ5.

I’m going to pull, get a new RMS in there, new pan gasket, turn the flywheeel, and get this clutch on there. I can never just “replace this part” it seems. Every Jeep
I open up, I cannot help myself to go down the rabbit hole, ha.

Example, battery went south on my TJ July 3rd, Diehard warranted it, I go to out it in, and now I’m replacing all the power cables, dammit, ha.
 
  • Haha
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#21 ·
I suggest you fix EZ stuff---THAT NEEDS IT! ---as you go!

Jumping all over or tackling the big stuff 1st---may not fix it, then when you return to the little

stuff and that fixes it, you may not be as happy!

Like John stated

Insure your metal mount is offset as in his pic above.

YOUR MOUNT is Bent!

It might also be loose on the bottom of the tranny!

Also, the bigger (rectangle) rubber mount under the tranny might be all squishy,

Mine was like that a while back, I got one that looked OEM from Advance Auto Parts for

less than $10 (aftermarket polyurethane ones are high dollar!)

For sure, the stud and rubbers are toast!

As far as the stud rubbers, I went to the "Help Section" in the store and found similar rubbers.

I did not leave the "space" where the metal bar has up and down movement -- I stacked it all so that

any up and down movement immediately is cushioned in either direction.

Check these links out POST #68 in here https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/1...l-my-stupid-questions-in-one-spot.4481606/page-4?post_id=41700479#post-41700479

and this one too

Post #6 in here https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/v...ion-after-replacing-u-joints-and-clutch.4455472/?post_id=41438855#post-41438855

-----JEEPFELLER
 
#23 ·
I suggest you fix EZ stuff---THAT NEEDS IT! ---as you go!

Jumping all over or tackling the big stuff 1st---may not fix it, then when you return to the little

stuff and that fixes it, you may not be as happy!

Like John stated

Insure your metal mount is offset as in his pic above.

YOUR MOUNT is Bent!

It might also be loose on the bottom of the tranny!

Also, the bigger (rectangle) rubber mount under the tranny might be all squishy,

Mine was like that a while back, I got one that looked OEM from Advance Auto Parts for

less than $10 (aftermarket polyurethane ones are high dollar!)

For sure, the stud and rubbers are toast!

As far as the stud rubbers, I went to the "Help Section" in the store and found similar rubbers.

I did not leave the "space" where the metal bar has up and down movement -- I stacked it all so that

any up and down movement immediately is cushioned in either direction.

Check these links out POST #68 in here https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/1...l-my-stupid-questions-in-one-spot.4481606/page-4?post_id=41700479#post-41700479

and this one too

Post #6 in here https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/v...ion-after-replacing-u-joints-and-clutch.4455472/?post_id=41438855#post-41438855

-----JEEPFELLER
Okay, done with a major build phase on my TJ, and getting back to the CJ5 and this shudder.


I'm 100% with you on doing the easy. So, I'm going to pull apart the mounts, get all of the Trans Mounts off, and also while that is off, lift and get the motor mounts done as well. I got the mount kit from Jeepsterman and they seem very solid. I also got a new bracket to replace the bent one from deadjeeps.

So, I'm going to pull this, and the stabilizer is obviously wasted. The bushings I got make for the torque play...I'm going to start with them as is, and might come back and pull them, trim the shallow narrow portions, so they are more snug like you laid out in those posts.

I'm looking and it's very odd that there is, what looks like an extra spacer, under the Trans mount. I'm just not sure what the previous owner did, on anything. The things done are so opposite of what I would say "doing it right" that I can't even figure what the motivation could be. It doesn't even look like it fits correctly, like it's off center, makes me crazy, but I'll pull it this weekend just got time for pics over lunch.


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And here is the new I bought to replace.


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#24 ·
Okay. This is hacky and not great, ha.

I’m going to clean all these bolts and get all this new on tomorrow.

There are double sided bolts all thread style that go into the mount. I’m thinking of getting bolts and just bolting from the bottom. If anyone know of that being an issue, that would be great to know.
Lining them up might take some effort, but frankly that’s not a big deal.

The Mount is pretty toasted, and it was actually loose, so one bolt wasn’t more than had tight going into the Transmission.
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#25 ·
Okay, so life been in the way and finally got the transmission and bell housing off and pulled the flywheel.

The pilot bushing looks good, the flywheel and clutch look worn.

curious if anyone sees this flywheel and it jumps out at them?

With all this out, I’m going to get new motor mounts, change the RMS and pan gasket too.


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#26 ·
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#27 ·
Yes

Snatch it off and have it resurfaced

at the same time, inspect your ring gear,

if it has knarled up teeth anywhere on it, I'd

replace it too!

Get you a new clutch set if you haven't already

Pic of my 1946 CJ2A flywheel

-----JEEPFELLER

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#32 ·
Yes

Snatch it off and have it resurfaced

at the same time, inspect your ring gear,

if it has knarled up teeth anywhere on it, I'd

replace it too!

Get you a new clutch set if you haven't already

Pic of my 1946 CJ2A flywheel

-----JEEPFELLER

View attachment 4327020

View attachment 4327021

View attachment 4327022
I'm going to get back under there, but the pilot bushing looks reamed out to me. That would cause chatter too for sure, probably a nice little combination of "nothing taken care of very well" and per usual I'm going to have to replace every single component to get it to run the way it should, ha.

Might have more time when my daughter goes back to school next week, free up some weekend time.
 
#29 ·
That’s what I was seeing, getting it resurfaced and I have the LUK waiting as well
Thanks to back up the thought
 
#30 ·
Haha, your flywheel looks as bad as mine did...
You're gonna be sooo happy when you feel the new clutch in action, so buttery smooth.

I know it's off topic, but what's the story with your 05 TJ? I have an 05 LJ myself, 56k on it, 33's with Rock Krawler lift springs and all RK control arms.
My CJ with SOA actually rides better on road!!
 
#31 ·
Yeah, got some work to do on the CJ5 for sure...made progress finally, wife is in Colorado with our last one in college, so home alone and no to do's.


This is a build thread I keep up on my 05 TJ. Is an X, but I got 05 Rubicon axles and lockers with 4.88 gears, 35" BFG Muds, Savvy control arms, Currie 4" springs and Savvy 1.25" body, with Savvy Trans lift skid and engine skid, Currie steering and adjustable trac bars. Drives straight as an arrow and Rancho shocks it rides smooth. I'll own it forever, ha.

My CJ5 I'm trying to get clean, it runs straight now was all over when I got it, and I'm in Texas, it's a weekend fun...but really is going to be the one I take to the beach. Galveston etc, or down to North Padre Island national seashore. Took my CJ5 in college down to Galveston a lot in the early 90's, just fun, ha.
 
#34 ·
Yeah, either a puller and slide hammer or just push grease in and use a metal rod or bolt that fits tight.
 
#35 ·
Bread is reusable as mouse bait.........or just a quick snack while your under there :)
 
#36 ·
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Bread is reusable as mouse bait.........or just a quick snack while your under there :)
Well, I had to give it a try, just because ha.

works pretty easy.
Bread is reusable as mouse bait.........or just a quick snack while your under there :)
works

had to try it after all these years of hearing about it.

takes a slice, maybe 2 of sourdough, ha.

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#37 ·
And look, still enough left for a sandwich, and a bread ball treat you throw to the dog :)