The transfer case clutches can warp or wear out from overuse, like if you have different size tires or do a lot of driving on the sand or in circles. The chain can stretch. So it is reasonable that it is a transfer case problem. But there are things like rusted cradle bushings, bad engine mounts, and worn CV joints that could have similar symptoms.

I'd advise not trying to select 4Low until you have things sorted out, but do check the oil level.

Its usually less money and hassle to replace the transfer case with a remanufactured unit than try to rebuilt yourself. Rebuilding would be more interesting :smile2: There are some bushing and seal removal/install tools required and a flange holder. The service manual, which you can get access to at techauthority.com, contains all the procedures. The transfer case is used in a number of GM trucks and Cadillac SUVs, so there are quite a few tips around the web and YouTube.

 

The transfer case clutches can warp or wear out from overuse, like if you have different size tires or do a lot of driving on the sand or in circles. The chain can stretch. So it is reasonable that it is a transfer case problem. But there are things like rusted cradle bushings, bad engine mounts, and worn CV joints that could have similar symptoms.

I'd advise not trying to select 4Low until you have things sorted out, but do check the oil level.

Its usually less money and hassle to replace the transfer case with a remanufactured unit than try to rebuilt yourself. Rebuilding would be more interesting :smile2: There are some bushing and seal removal/install tools required and a flange holder. The service manual, which you can get access to at techauthority.com, contains all the procedures. The transfer case is used in a number of GM trucks and Cadillac SUVs, so there are quite a few tips around the web and YouTube.

When you say different size tires - I assume you mean having 1 or more tires different sized than the rest. I have (slightly) oversized tires - but they all match. As far as the rest of it, I would agree, I believe finding a reman case is likely the most frugal and straightforward option and can likely be swapped in a day.

 

Oh, by the way, If the fluid is good and the tire sizes and pressures are correct the most common complaint is binding on turns, and/or a clunk or thud on takeoff. 99% of the time this will indicate a failed position sensor.

 

Where is that? how would I start troubleshooting that?

 

It is the shift rail/mode position sensor/encoder on the transfer case. If there is no DTC associated, I think the troubleshooting is to replace it with a know working one and see what happens.

You may be able to troubleshoot by measuring the voltage at the sensor when the transfer case is in Low (0.25-0.80VDC), Neutral (1.1-1.25) and Auto (2.00-4.75).... but then be prepared for the transfer case to get locked into 4Low. There are a couple threads on that topic, but it often results in a replacement transfer case in the end.

You would think the dealer techs would be experienced enough to isolate this, but dunno.

If you are going to try to replace the position sensor,

Align slot in shift shaft in case with area marked with red.
Align arrow on the encoder shaft with alignment mark prior to installing the encoder
Position sensor installed on case. Turn CLOCKWISE UNTIL BOLT HOLES ALIGN and then torque attaching bolts.

 

It is the shift rail/mode position sensor/encoder on the transfer case. If there is no DTC associated, I think the troubleshooting is to replace it with a know working one and see what happens.

You may be able to troubleshoot by measuring the voltage at the sensor when the transfer case is in Low (0.25-0.80VDC), Neutral (1.1-1.25) and Auto (2.00-4.75).... but then be prepared for the transfer case to get locked into 4Low. There are a couple threads on that topic, but it often results in a replacement transfer case in the end.

You would think the dealer techs would be experienced enough to isolate this, but dunno.

If you are going to try to replace the position sensor,

Align slot in shift shaft in case with area marked with red.
Align arrow on the encoder shaft with alignment mark prior to installing the encoder
Position sensor installed on case. Turn CLOCKWISE UNTIL BOLT HOLES ALIGN and then torque attaching bolts.

I'm almost ready to do this. To clarify, the arrow is on the plastic center shaft on the sensor, and the alignment mark is the indent on the bronze colored washer thing? Is that accurate?

 

Transmission Digest covers it in some detail here.

IIRC, the sensor is mounted toward the top of the transfer case on the passenger side, but don't quote me on that.

The troubleshooting process is "if the fluid is good and it's binding/clunking/thudding, try a new position sensor." If that doesn't work, it wasn't the position sensor.

 

I changed the fluid. The dealer said it had metal in it. The fluid that came out looked fine. Either:

1. They lied through their teeth
2. They dont know what metal in fluid looks like
3. I dont know what metal in fluid looks like
4. Or they changed the fluid and didn't charge me for it.

Anyway. I only had 2 quarts on me, so i put that in and drove it to the store to get another. Issue still happened. Definitely binding, and I would describe the thump as an extremely pronounced stutter. I put the other half a quart or whatever was missing but haven't had a chance to drive it again yet, but somehow I doubt that half quart or a little more will fix it at this point. I will go look for one of those sensors on rock auto.

If it is in fact that sensor, does it hurt to drive it? We've been avoiding it as much as possible, but if there is no risk to drive it, may as well. And if the whole thing needs replaced, well, i cant do much more damage.

 

All I can find is MOPAR 68071234AA. I cannot tell if this is for the right year or the right T case. Anyone got part numbers?

EDIT: to clarify, several sites include my year and trim as compatible with the above part number. What it doesn't specify is quadra trac 1 or 2; and rock auto only specifies years 2011-2012.

 

Parts dealer will take your VIN and match up the right part. They usually ask for the VIN in the cart or when you check out. They will notify you, usually via email, if the part is incorrect for your VIN and suggest the right part number. Otherwise they send an order confirmation.

 

If the position sensor is off/defective, the clutch pack loading will not be right. If tight, the shudder you hear is the clutches stick-slipping, something like an overloaded auto transmission when its clutch starts to slip (warped clutch plates will also do this). So if its just the sensor, driving it will do damage or add plenty of wear. If its the plates, you are in for a rebuild.

You could remove the front drive shaft to minimize transfer case damage, the transfer case is a straight through type directly coupled to the rear with a power takeoff chain for the front.

 

That shaft in the transfer case doesn’t readily spin. What am I missing? Does the vehicle have to move?

 

I read that link and answered part of my own question. Still don’t understand how to spin the shaft.

 

I got the sensor in. Never figured out how to get the shaft lined up. It was close, I’d say 10-15 degrees off. Test drive showed improvement but not full resolution. Stutter still there but not as pronounced or impactful. Seems to be binding less on right turns. I wonder if getting that shaft the rest of the way lined up gets me all the way home?

I also have a rapid ticking. I assume it’s related. It is in al gears except reverse, and it resumes for about a half to full second after the car is shut off. Not sure what that means.

 

The ticking may be the traction controller trying to turn the motor but its not cooperating. Usually its more of a click than a tick. I think the controller or actuator motor can be damaged if let go.

Some info consolidated here:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309/maintenance-repair-thread-index-3478986/

 

The ticking may be the traction controller trying to turn the motor but its not cooperating. Usually its more of a click than a tick. I think the controller or actuator motor can be damaged if let go.

Some info consolidated here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309/maintenance-repair-thread-index-3478986/

Any thoughts on getting that shaft to spin? Or is there a connection here that I'm missing?

 

I've read that you can remove the actuator and turn the shaft from there. Its easier if you have an old actuator shaft that meshes with the gears, but there are members here that have done it. I don't recall if its mentioned in the referenced thread or if there is an easier way, but thats one way.

 

I assume you are referring to that little electric motor hanging off the right hand side. I considered that but was out of time for the day.

 

All simple multi speed or multimode transfer cases have a shift rail/fork.

The WK2 transfer case mode motor (actuator) is coupled to a worm gear that turns the shift shaft (shift rail). The shift shaft turns the position sensor (encoder) via a mechanical link. The traction control computer determines what position the shift rail is in by the sensor readings. Similar to many other electrically controlled/shifted transfer cases.

Dunno if the small sensor offset makes any difference.

 

After reading on of the threads, I put the ignition to run without starting and noticed that rapid clicking. Disconnect the shift motor, it doesn’t click.

 

I took the motor off. Reconnect the wire. Ignition to start. Motor spins but no clicking. Why would the motor being trying to spin at all? Does that point to a bad control module?

 

Or is the control module trying to get the motor into correct position because I couldn’t get the sensor lined up?

 

For anyone looking for how to spin the shift shaft manually - if you take the shift motor off and carefully stick the right sized Allen wrench in there, you can spin it and it will spin the shaft. There is a gear reduction that caused me to almost miss it, I was spinning the Allen and the shaft budged just enough for me to notice it. I have no idea if this is a sanctioned method, but that’s what I did.

 

So, I spun the shaft to the appropriate spot, reinstalled the sensor and shift motor. Still getting the click. It does it on ever shift between neutral, drive, and park. Service 4wd popped up, and I cannot shift to 4low. fortunately I am "stuck" in hi and not low. Oddly enough, the actual symptoms improved. The heavy thump/stutter is gone, and there is only a small stutter left on takeoff, although given the other factors we're clearly not right.

I believe that just leaves the control module left to replace. Input on the best place to source one?

 

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I don't want to spend the time here repeating the referenced thread.

The shift rail may be sticking or the transfer case jammed up such that the motor cannot turn it. It may spin freely in space. Does it spin in both directions? Common motor failure mode is that it will only spin in one direction.

It may be prudent to replace the motor and control module at the same time. The motor has a brake that the controller releases when it wants to move things. The clicking you hear may be the brake release and when the controller senses an over current (from a jammed transfer case for example), it stops sending voltage and sets the brake. The cycle continues. If you think the position sensor is off calibration, you can measure its voltage as you rotate the shift rail.

That being said, many here fix their transfer case by replacing the control module, others fix it by replacing the motor, others burn out the replcement as the fault was in the other component, others are happy after replacing both. Shops routinely replace both as apparently its difficult to fault isolate between them and a faulty one can burn out the other component. Some here replace all three (position sensor, motor, controller) and find that its a jammed up transfer case. Replacing the three has been much less money than a recondition case, so they take a chance and often it works out.

 

I’ve been making my way through that other thread. Should have done that to start with but it wouldn’t have changed my approach. I’m leaning towards both the control module and motor.

 

Stupid question - where is the control module? I’m everything I’ve read so far nothing mentions where it’s at

 

In the cubby under the driver's seat.

 

I read in another thread that the shift motors come in neutral but never saw how to manually get the transfer case to neutral if it won’t shift by itself.

 

Well I just decided to go for it. Disconnected battery, swapped control module, swapped shift motor. Fired it up, no click. Took it for a drive, smooth sailing. Service 4wd light came back on. Got it home, tried to shift to 4lo, no dice. Shut it off, started it back up. No service 4wd light. Tried to shift to 4lo, and after a few tense seconds, it popped in. Drove it forward, shifted back to 4hi, away we go.

As long as there is not some other root cause that caused one of these to fail initially, we should be in good shape. I’ll watch it carefully for a few weeks, check for leaks, etc.

Coldcase - thank you for all your help. You’ve saved me, among likely countless others on this forum, a whole lot of money. Here’s to hoping I’ll get another 90k problem free miles.

 

Wondering if you can just hand rotate shift shaft in case? Going to do this sensor replacement next week and don’t want to mess it up.