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Strange symptoms w/ dead battery

22K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  twowings  
#1 · (Edited)
History: '02 Liberty Limited. 37K+ miles. No major issues to date.

Last weekend my battery died. It took two days and a blown work day to figure it out, though. OK, before you mock me for not knowing enough to just go get another battery, I have to tell you the strange symptom. My wife and son had just finished loading the Liberty after a weekend at her mom's house. We said our goodbyes, snapped my son into his carseat, and got in. (Note that just prior to getting in, I had unlocked the doors with my key fob.)

I turn the key, and nothing happens. No starter crank, no radio, no dashboard lights - absolutely nothing. The entire vehicle is dead as a doornail. OK, so the battery must be dead or something, I think. That's odd, but not impossible.

So my wife and I get out of the Jeep and I start to open the hood. My wife, now standing by the tailgate, says "what's this noise?" I go back to the gate and you can clearly hear the tailgate latch clicking, as if it were constantly cycling itself or something. So I try opening the gate and it won't open. I try the key fob, and the locks don't unlock. Every indication was that the battery was dead, but it baffled me that the tailgate actuator was making that noise.

I figured if the tailgate latch were cycling, then the battery must not be dead because there has to be power to run the latch. So, I convince myself it's not the battery. Nothing I do makes the latch stop clicking, or makes the Jeep show any other signs of power.

So we decide to stay an extra night and get the Jeep to the local dealer (not my original dealer) in the morning.

After a harrowing morning of trying to get the Jeep to the dealer (another story in and off itself, but not really relevant), I finally manage to get the Jeep jump started. I start to drive to the dealer and the battery light comes on within a few blocks. All the way there the red battery light is on and the dashboard lights and odometer are randomly blinking on and off.

I explain everything to the dealer's service counter, and they take a look at it. He calls me a few hours later and says my battery is dead, that it won't take a charge, and that I simply need a new battery. I ask about the tailgate latch, and he says the only thing they can think is that the low power in the battery somehow caused the latch to start doing strange things. This makes absolutely no sense to me, but I figure what the hey. I tell them to put a new battery and double check the tailgate and let me know how it goes. He calls back about an hour later and says everything is fine and the new battery did the trick.

I still have no explanation as to what the clicking noise was from the tailgate latch. In the end, all is well, but I found it odd that my battery was essentially completely dead (and wouldn't take a charge), but somehow there was enough power to cycle the tailgate. And then there's the whole question of why the tailgate latch kept cycling/clicking in the first place. [Note, I say it was cycling, but really all I can say for sure is it was clicking. I presumed it was cycling, but the gate and window weren't opening, so who knows?]

The bottom line is, if you one day find your Liberty completely dead, go ahead and try a new battery (or at least jump start it) regardless of what weird noises may be eminating from it.

Oh, and the new battery cost me $123.73 ($76 for the battery, $41 for a 'diagnostic', and $2.05 for "customer pay shop charge for repair order" - whatever the heck that is - and $4.05 for Uncle Sam).
 
#2 ·
Wen you crank your Jeep to start it it take a huge amount of electrcal energy to spin your starter. Yet it only takes a few amps to run your accessories. So while a battery may be dead enough to not start your Jeep there may be enough juice for the tailgate release actuator to work....
I would have the tailgate actuator issue revisited as there is a recall on them for unwanted activation. It it get stuck actuating it may cause your battery to drain.....
 
#3 ·
Renegade04 said:
Wen you crank your Jeep to start it it take a huge amount of electrcal energy to spin your starter. Yet it only takes a few amps to run your accessories. So while a battery may be dead enough to not start your Jeep there may be enough juice for the tailgate release actuator to work....
I would have the tailgate actuator issue revisited as there is a recall on them for unwanted activation. It it get stuck actuating it may cause your battery to drain.....
there is a technical service bulletin on the flipper glass.....not a recall
 
#4 ·
gonz165 said:
History: '02 Liberty Limited. 37K+ miles. No major issues to date.

Last weekend my battery died. It took two days and a blown work day to figure it out, though. OK, before you mock me for not knowing enough to just go get another battery, I have to tell you the strange symptom. My wife and son had just finished loading the Liberty after a weekend at her mom's house. We said our goodbyes, snapped my son into his carseat, and got in. (Note that just prior to getting in, I had unlocked the doors with my key fob.)

I turn the key, and nothing happens. No starter crank, no radio, no dashboard lights - absolutely nothing. The entire vehicle is dead as a doornail. OK, so the battery must be dead or something, I think. That's odd, but not impossible.

So my wife and I get out of the Jeep and I start to open the hood. My wife, now standing by the tailgate, says "what's this noise?" I go back to the gate and you can clearly hear the tailgate latch clicking, as if it were constantly cycling itself or something. So I try opening the gate and it won't open. I try the key fob, and the locks don't unlock. Every indication was that the battery was dead, but it baffled me that the tailgate actuator was making that noise.

I figured if the tailgate latch were cycling, then the battery must not be dead because there has to be power to run the latch. So, I convince myself it's not the battery. Nothing I do makes the latch stop clicking, or makes the Jeep show any other signs of power.

So we decide to stay an extra night and get the Jeep to the local dealer (not my original dealer) in the morning.

After a harrowing morning of trying to get the Jeep to the dealer (another story in and off itself, but not really relevant), I finally manage to get the Jeep jump started. I start to drive to the dealer and the battery light comes on within a few blocks. All the way there the red battery light is on and the dashboard lights and odometer are randomly blinking on and off.

I explain everything to the dealer's service counter, and they take a look at it. He calls me a few hours later and says my battery is dead, that it won't take a charge, and that I simply need a new battery. I ask about the tailgate latch, and he says the only thing they can think is that the low power in the battery somehow caused the latch to start doing strange things. This makes absolutely no sense to me, but I figure what the hey. I tell them to put a new battery and double check the tailgate and let me know how it goes. He calls back about an hour later and says everything is fine and the new battery did the trick.

I still have no explanation as to what the clicking noise was from the tailgate latch. In the end, all is well, but I found it odd that my battery was essentially completely dead (and wouldn't take a charge), but somehow there was enough power to cycle the tailgate. And then there's the whole question of why the tailgate latch kept cycling/clicking in the first place. [Note, I say it was cycling, but really all I can say for sure is it was clicking. I presumed it was cycling, but the gate and window weren't opening, so who knows?]

The bottom line is, if you one day find your Liberty completely dead, go ahead and try a new battery (or at least jump start it) regardless of what weird noises may be eminating from it.

Oh, and the new battery cost me $123.73 ($76 for the battery, $41 for a 'diagnostic', and $2.05 for "customer pay shop charge for repair order" - whatever the heck that is - and $4.05 for Uncle Sam).
I had a similar battery experience with a 1990 Ford Taurus. Count yourself lucky that you were at home when you had your problem. I wasn't. Here was the cost breakdown which ultimately resulted in a new battery which I could have bought for $50 if I had taken proper precautions and replaced the thing after 3 years. (we have bad winters here)

Tow= $50
Rental car to get home= $50
Diagnostics= $50
New battery= $70

The dealer said the battery was fine after they cleaned the terminals....I knew that was bull because I'd just cleaned them prior to the problem. The battery could not be jumped before I was towed....I believe the battery had a cracked cell or shorted cell in it.
But being a big dummy I listened to the dealer and went on my way.
A week later the exact same problem occurred, turned the key, and nothing.....Fortunately this time, the car was in the garage.
That's when I took the battery out of my TR6 and put it in the Ford and went and bought a new battery for $60. I could have saved all the aggravation and most of the expense if I had just replaced the battery after 3 or 4 years.
Now my motto is....even if I have a 60 month battery, or a 72 month battery, I change it after 36 or 48 months....just to be safe. It saves money over the long run...cause you avoid towing bills, and diagnostic tests , and all that other aggravation.
 
#5 ·
I knew about the flipper gate bulletin. That was one of the reasons I convinced myself it might not have been a battery issue. But, as far as I knew, the flipper bulletin only applied to '03's and '04's. I have an '02. All in all, the fact that I knew of a bulletin just added to my consternation and confusion.
 
#12 ·
Steven73 said:
we're twins...that's what mine said, and that means....no worries, and no visiting the dealer and waiting in their waiting room for hours on end.
I generally don't wait in the waiting room. I usually leave the car there. But this time time I left it there for a leaky rear axle fluid, the jeep sat out in the parking lot until after 5 before they even started to look at it and I dropped it off at 7AM. So when I took it in for the recall, i waited and they only had it for not even an hour. But I guess me yelling at them last time told them that i can be a totally you know what about my jeep.
 
#13 ·
sexyliberty said:
I generally don't wait in the waiting room. I usually leave the car there. But this time time I left it there for a leaky rear axle fluid, the jeep sat out in the parking lot until after 5 before they even started to look at it and I dropped it off at 7AM. So when I took it in for the recall, i waited and they only had it for not even an hour. But I guess me yelling at them last time told them that i can be a totally you know what about my jeep.
very understandable sexy!
 
#14 ·
Anyone know what the "flipper glass" bulletin entails? I too have a 2002 with 19k miles on it. One day my wife calls to say the Jeep is getting harder to start and finally won't start. I arrive home to find the battery dead. I recharge the battery and we drive 1200 miles over the course of the next several days (running from Katrina). No problems with the battery. Park the Jeep for a few days and the battery goes dead. Buy new battery (and smart charger) and by the next day, the new battery is 50% discharged! The CD player quit working the first time the battery died and would not show as much as the time display throughout this whole ordeal. After I put the new battery in, the display flickers, and then displays "12:00" even with the key off. CD player does not respond to attempts to change the time or anything else. But, I thought I heard a clicking from the cargo area whenever I changed to the new battery. One last strange thing, when we bought the Liberty the interior lights would flicker on while we first started driving it for no apparent reason, then fade off. It quit doing that some time ago, or I just hadn't noticed it in some time, and had never caused a problem.

So, does anyone have a lead for me? How can I find out about service bulletins or recalls?
 
#15 ·
This reminds me of how once I bought a new battery for my old car. A few weeks later the battery died again, it wouldn't hold a charge. I ended up getting it replaced but anyway...

It had died in town once. I needed to get a jump from someone so I could get home. "Fortionatly" one of my friends was there with his Saab convertable.


He wouldn't let me jump my car. He didn't know much about cars and he thought that by jumping off his car I would somehow blow his car up.

I had to wave down some complete stranger. I ended up getting some guy in a sebring convertable with his girlfriend.

Now I don't know what it is about people in convertables, but during the entire thing, the guys girlfriend was screaming cause she thought the car would explode with her inside of it.

Great to have friends.
 
#16 ·
i can attest to the bad battery and the clicking noise. I had the exact same thing happen to me and that was the exact noise. The battery fixed it. i agree with earlier posts about the latch requiring very few amps and this was causing the actuator to "click".

-nick
 
#17 ·
madmanfrommars said:
Now I don't know what it is about people in convertables, but during the entire thing, the guys girlfriend was screaming cause she thought the car would explode with her inside of it.
People in convertibles are suspect, I agree.

Sounds like what's happening is a shorted cell in the battery. 12V instantly becoms 9V. At 8-9V controllers whig out and usually stop, however, they can do dumb things like constantly lock the flipper glass.

I hate to sound like a broken record, but get a CRD. They have (among their LONG list of advantages) an Optima gel battery. Just DON'T charge the Optima on a regular charger, it'll cook.

2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift rear helper springs -225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers & seat covers.
 
#18 ·
This past weekend, I was on a run in the middle of Death Valley (hours from the nearest gas station). After going through some wasboard roads, the lights on my dash started to flash, then went out. I turned the engine off, then tried to start it -and nothing! As soon as I used the remote to try to open the tail gate, the latch started to click. I found out you can't open the tail gate with a dead batter, even if you stick the key in the slot and try to open it manually. We put a volt meter to the battery and it was showing 18+ volts, but nothing would work. It was even difficult to jump start it, and once we got it started the engine would die if I let off the gas.
I think in my case, the battery was old (2002 KJ w/ 50K miles) and the wasboard road damaged it. Lucky for me that one of our club members had a dual battery set up, so we put one of the batteries in my KJ and it started right up.

Long story short, KJ's make all kinds of strange sounds when the battery dies.

Ed
 
#20 ·
2004 jeep Grand Cherokee battery issues

For a while now my 2004 jeep grand cherokee will not start for me. I have bought a brand new battery, had alternater checked, and checked the draw from the starter... All things are fine and im still having issues. Its not everyday, but happening more often now i go out to start the jeep up and nothing. I also make sure to turn everything to the "off" positions just to make sure nothing is on or drawing from the battery overnight. Now, the mornings that the jeep is dead and i need a jump to get it started.... i have noticed the Recirculation button light is on. I know for a fact that i turned everything off the night before. So im confused, why is the Recirculation button light on and is that drawing my battery dead??? Is this an electrical problem??? Has this happened to anyone else that might be able to help me figure out what is going on... Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 
#21 ·
Radio dies followed by dead battery

Have been reading with interest the numerous stories of electrical gremlins in Liberties. Here's another twist: we have an 02 Liberty. The radio will occasionally stop working. If the car is driven daily no problem, but if it sits for a couple days - dead battery. First time this happened we went ahead and replaced the battery, and then the radio resumed working. Nothing else was changed. This has happened multiple times, with the amount of time it takes the battery to die getting shorter and shorter, now down to day and a half.
What could cause the radio to die, then kill the battery, and then be magically fixed by a new battery?

Thanks for any suggestions, dealership and mechanic stumped...
 
#22 ·
Ah, a screaming girl in a convertible...Hollywood's bread and butter for over 80 years!

Takes a healthy battery these days to run modern computer-controlled engines with fuel injection...lots of the accessory items may function normally for awhile but unless you have just installed a KNOWN good battery, the battery should always be suspect #1 in troubleshooting a no-start condition..."Uh, yeah, it was like, new, six months ago...." just doesn't cut it...