A lot of Jeepers use the H1 steering box instead of the OEM. It is a bigger box and I believe has a variable ratio. I have a leaking PS box and will do the swap as I get around to it. Check out this thread:
JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > The tale of my H1 steering box upgrade

God bless.
Jon In Tucson

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "touchy", but when a CJ is tight and right they are quick steering by nature. Meaning, it doesn't take much steering input to change directions.

Most guys have the opposite problem. Their steering is loose due to wear in the steering components. Or their CJ wanders all over the road, causing the driver to constantly correct it. That's almost always due to lack of caster caused from suspension modifications.

Perhaps you can describe your symptoms in better detail, so we can offer more advise.

Matt

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "touchy", but when a CJ is tight and right they are quick steering by nature. Meaning, it doesn't take much steering input to change directions.

Most guys have the opposite problem. Their steering is loose due to wear in the steering components. Or their CJ wanders all over the road, causing the driver to constantly correct it. That's almost always due to lack of caster caused from suspension modifications.

Perhaps you can describe your symptoms in better detail, so we can offer more advise.

Matt

I agree with you, every CJ ive drivin has been very touchy by nature, just the beast it self.

 

CJs have a 16:1 fixed ratio box.

Fullsize Jeeps have a variable ratio and it's 13:1 (IIRC) near the center of the box. Variable means that near center (going straight down the road) the box doesn't move as much with x amount of steering input up to a certain point of turning the steering wheel. Once you get in a situation like going around a corner or parallel parking where you turn the steering wheel more the ratio goes up and you get more turning motion at the tires. I can't think of a clearer way to describe it, so hope that makes sense.

This is a diagram of how it works in a rack and pinion setup, but the theory is the same with recirculating ball steering boxes that fullsize Jeeps have.

 

The H-1 box helped mine along with new steering shaft drag link and tie rod ends but it really only takes the slop out...Like Matt said pos Caster is the only cure for touchy...mines only got +2* and its not enough, Im thinkin 5-6 might do but Im soa so that amplifies things. I dont think Id let the kids play with it till you get the touchy gone....ocg

 

To me "touchy" means it only takes a slight movement of the wheel to make the rig steer in either direction. That's fairly normal for a tight, well-aligned CJ.

If the owner's CJ wanders from side to side, requiring constant correction to keep it between the lines, then that's most likely lack of caster.

I think the OP need's to further clarify what he means by "touchy". It may not be a problem at all.

Matt

 

Thanks for the replies. To describe touchy, If you breath on the wheel it will turn, I have to actually think about it when driving it, especially at high speeds. I once let my brother drive it and when he shifted into second gear he imidiatly went int to the opposite lane, he hasn't driven it since and that was 20 years ago. There's About 3-5 degrees of play, in the wheel. You can't feel it engage in the wheel when it does, it just turns. When it catches a rut, you have to ride it out, to correct is lot worse.

I love it for off road, but on the highway it is a little sketchy. I drag race it once and a while, I once shifted into 4 th gear at about 95 mph and moved the wheel tiny bit, it really got my attention! I never just lift off the throttle, that is a hand full, I have to ease out of it.

It is a 79 and no lift kit. It has new shackles, shocks tie plates and I have Cal-Trak bars on the rear. I run 31x10.5 street tires with 10" wide wheels.

 

Thanks for the replies. To describe touchy, If you breath on the wheel it will turn, I have to actually think about it when driving it, especially at high speeds. I once let my brother drive it and when he shifted into second gear he imidiatly went int to the opposite lane, he hasn't driven it since and that was 20 years ago. There's About 3-5 degrees of play, in the wheel. You can't feel it engage in the wheel when it does, it just turns. When it catches a rut, you have to ride it out, to correct is lot worse.

I love it for off road, but on the highway it is a little sketchy. I drag race it once and a while, I once shifted into 4 th gear at about 95 mph and moved the wheel tiny bit, it really got my attention! I never just lift off the throttle, that is a hand full, I have to ease out of it.

It is a 79 and no lift kit. It has new shackles, shocks tie plates and I have Cal-Trak bars on the rear. I run 31x10.5 street tires with 10" wide wheels.

The side to side steering wheel slop in the box is adjustable. You loosen the big lock ring around the adjuster plug where the steering shaft goes in. Then you use a special tool like an angle grinder wheel tool or a hammer and punch to tighten the plug all the way. You then back it off 1/8" of it's edge travel or until you feel the steering wheel just start to get loose again. Tighten down the big lock ring and you are good to go.
Ideally you should set up the top small locknut and screw too, those are the gear preload, but usually that is done after a full teardown and needs inch pound torque wrenches to set up.

 

Are the new shackles stock length?

Matt

 

Are the new shackles stock length?

Matt

Yes, none of the new stuff has affected how it drives. I was just stating what I've done to help element possibilities. Thanks

 

Your symptoms sound like "loose" steering to me.

Which is usually worn tie rod ends or a worn steering knuckle or gear.

Have you ever tried adjusting the worm bearing preload and the pitman shaft drag torque on the steering gear? It's a maintenance adjustment to compensate for normal wear. Check your FSM for details.

Matt

 

Your symptoms sound like "loose" steering to me.

Which is usually worn tie rod ends or a worn steering knuckle or gear.

Have you ever tried adjusting the worm bearing preload and the pitman shaft drag torque on the steering gear? It's a maintenance adjustment to compensate for normal wear. Check your FSM for details.

Matt

Stupid question, what's FSM

 

Factory service manual. You can download the '79 manual for free at this webpage. http://oljeep.com/edge_parts_man.html

 

The OP's problem sounds more like a Detroit locker rear, than a steering problem, at least the 20 MPH part.

Of the 4 CJ's I can drive on the road, 2 are stock CJ steering boxes, 1 is from a FSJ J20, the other is a AGR box. Only the Jeep with the Detroit locker has steering issues . And that's only when the locker engages at less than 20 MPH.

 

The OP's problem sounds more like a Detroit locker rear, than a steering problem, at least the 20 MPH part.

Of the 4 CJ's I can drive on the road, 2 are stock CJ steering boxes, 1 is from a FSJ J20, the other is a AGR box. Only the Jeep with the Detroit locker has steering issues . And that's only when the locker engages at less than 20 MPH.

When I first put it the power steering in I had an open carrier Dana44 rear end, it had the issue back then too.

 

I'm curious if you have the same steering geometry as a stock CJ , a shorter pitman arm would add to steering quickness . As well as the location of the drag link at the knuckle/tierod.

 

I guess it's possible, it was manual steering when I bought it, all I did was change gear box. Nothing in the steering, tie rod ends, pitman or anything else hass been touched in at least 27 years. For all I know it's still factory stuff.

 

DUDE! change your ball joints and tie rods. like now. that's a rolling death trap.