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Replacing headlight switch with toggle switch?

27K views 32 replies 22 participants last post by  gotrock88  
#1 ·
My headlight switch is crapping out, and the dealer wants over $100.00, 4WD can get one for @ $34.00
Has anyone just changed or replaced theirs with plain ole toggle switches?
 
#3 ·
if you are talking about the one in the dash, you can get it from Quadratec for $26.99
however, that's just the headlight/parking light switch, it dose not appear to include the dimmer switch for the interior/gauge lights.

here's a link to it,
http://www.quadratec.com/products/55211_03.htm
 
#4 ·
That's exactly what I'm doing once my dash gets here. Haven't looked into it yet so I can't tell you what wires to put where...
 
#6 ·
i havnt but have been thinking of swapping everything over to toggles. if i do it soon ill let you know how it works and ill post pics
 
#8 · (Edited)
Eliminating the OEM unit is a bad idea. It has a thermotrip breaker inside. If the headlights overload, the relay trips and they go out, but then the relay cools and the lights can come back on, like if the high beams overload and you can go back to low beams and still drive in a couple seconds. You don't want your lights going out on a dark curvy road at 50 mph.
 
#11 ·
Toggles are fine too. Radio Shack has a center off, double throw (headlights and parklights) for about $5.

Ive used them in old cars. Also you can get a generic pull type headlight switch in most auto stores.
 
#14 ·
If you use Toggles you need to wire them to relays, period.

Most toggle switches are rated for 10a or 15a, headlights happen to be a 20a draw, it WILL fry the toggle switch if left on for an extended period and cause a fire in the wiring.

I rewired my YJ from the ground up (ripped the original harness out and made my own), I have 2 relays, 1 that runs the headlights, one that runs the brights. The tail lights and turn signals are not over 15a and are fine directly to a switch.
 
#22 ·
When ours went out I removed the switch, opened it up, cleaned out the 14 yrs of dirt, grime and gunk, very gently bent the connectors so they meet properly again, spryed a tiny amount of white grease on the connectors (to replace the grease I had cleaned off) and re-installed it. ZERO problems in over a year. Lights never go out and it clicks into place better, not a sloppy switch anymore.

Cost? $zilch
 
#23 ·
bringing this one back from a month of death but I am also having headlight problems. This is what I was thinking about doing, just cleaning those ****ers out. Is the switch you guys speak of the one in the column? cause my high beams work but my low's do not. Found a diagram suggesting that would be the dimmer switch.
 
#28 ·
Well, seing how this has been brought back, I might as well add my little update.
A wile back, I re-worked my dash. I had already converted the ignition over to toggle and push button switches, and decided to do the same with the lights. I put in 3 toggle switches for the lights. One for the dash lights, one for the park/running lights, and one for the head lights. The switches have been in for almost 2 years now, and I have had no problems at all with them.
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#29 ·
Jeeperdon is about half right and half wrong. Just replacing the ome style switches with toggles can get you into a problem. If you do that you do need to add a safety breaker in before the switch for the headlights only. This only makes seance for protection of a higher amperage circuit. Now here is what I would do and will do when mine finally takes a crap. Will be replace the switch with two toggle switches one for the headlights and one for the parking and dash lights running through the dash dimmer control. Adding relays under the hood for the headlights and a breaker for protection.